Bradshaw's Hand-Book to the Turkish Empire (2024)

From The Art and Popular Culture Encyclopedia

Bradshaw's Hand-Book to the Turkish Empire (1872) is a Bradshaw guide.

PRELIMINARIES.

OWING to the various lines of communication which have been opened up with the East, the traveller is now offered the choice of a number of routes, each vying with the other in attractiveness and interest. The whole journey to Constantinople can be performed with no more than seventeen hours' sea-passage, combining an overland-route through the most beautiful and interesting parts of Europe, ranging from the Main to the Mediterranean. Or, if the tourist be of nautical proclivities, he can make use of the trackless ocean, and the compasses of the P. and O. Company, or the Messageries Impériales, with "land," at Gibraltar, Sicily, or Malta, until he set foot on Egyptian soil, or anchor in the Golden Horn. The judicious selection of a route specially adapted to the individuality of the traveller concerned is therefore of no slight importance. First of all, atour of Europe can be combined with a journey to the East at avery slight increase of expense, thanks to the system of issuingmonthly tickets, with power to break one's journey at the chiefpoints of interest on the route. Secondly, the tourist caneither plunge into " medias res " at once, and find himself transported, as it were in an instant, into the midst of a scene wherethe Living Present has curiously embodied and petrified withinitself the Ancient Past; or else he can become graduallyinitiated into the mysteries of Oriental life , by penetrating stepfor step through the various strata of races, creeds, and customs,B2 GUIDE TO TURKEY.until he arrives at the true lode itself in which he intends towork. Both methods have their own peculiar attractions.The sudden leap from West to East, when taking the sea-routefrom Southampton or Marseille to Alexandria, will most probablybe the most gratifying to the greater number of tourists; butto the scholar and men of a deeper range of thought, the moregradual mode of transition, viâ Trieste or the Danube, will bemore interesting.We shall therefore devote particular care to our descriptionsof the various routes to the East, and endeavour to make thejourney thither as agreeable as possible, and as much an objectas the Levant itself, so as to put the traveller into the rosiesthumour on his arrival in the land ofthe Scimitar and the Crescent,for, certes, it will be no easy task to invest the Orient with thecouleur de rose and Arabian Nights' charm usually supposed topervade it .Every man ought to travel as much as he can.There is aGerman legend so much to the point that we will give it as anextra inducement, for if it is not true in theory it is so in reality.When Adam lost fair Paradise,And from its golden portals crept,The tears of sorrow filled his eyes,And mourning o'er his loss, he wept."Alas, alas! and ne'er shall IYon fairy scenes again behold,No more unto my raptured eye Will they their glories e'er unfold!"And as he spake in mournful wise,Whilst bitter woes his bosom rend,A sudden rushing filled the skies And angel hosts to earth descend.And seizing on the favoured ground They rose, and all dispersing, fled,And scattering it all around Throughout the earth its glories spread.Thus, wouldst thou Eden's vistas view,Then take thy staff and wander forth,The whole wide world of beauty through From east to west, from south to north.Adam would scarcely have found it possible to re-unite thescattered pieces, but, with Bradshaw to guide us, the IronHorse can now very nearly show us all our primeval parentslost.Not the least agreeable part of a journey, to use an Hibernicism,is the preparation for it, and as poetry finally resolves itself intoprose, so also does the romance of travelling in prosaic time- tablesand matter- of- fact statistics as to expense, hotels, etc. As inall things, the " almighty dollar " predominates here also; thefirst item therefore to be considered is:PRELIMINARIES. 3EXPENSE.Personal expenses it is impossible to calculate, as individualrequirements vary so much, but for a person of moderate habits£1 per day is quite sufficient. The hotel prices we shall give intheir proper places; and limit ourselves at present to an estimateof the cost of a complete tour in the East, from which each can calculate the portion he intends traversing. The grand tour of theEast would take about six months, cost £250 to £300, and beaccomplished in the following manner, taking Trieste for astarting point:-1.LONDON TO Trieste.A. 1 Class . 2 Class.London to Bâle, viâ Cologne and the Rhine £5 0 0 3 10 0Bâle to Milan, a. viâ the St. Gotthard, Lago Maggiore, Arona…… Ditto b. via the Splügen, Chiavenna, Como, CamerlataMilan to Venice, viâ Bergamo, Brescia,Verona, Vicenza, PaduaVenice to Trieste, viâ Udine and Nabresina Ditto by steamer (5 hours)Total, London to Trieste, a. viâ the St. Got- thard..2 9 0223016 O0 10 03002 10 01 11 2106 1 1 60 16 010 1 8 7 8b. viâ the Splügen 10 12 8 7 16 696DittoB.DittoLondon to Trieste, viâ Harwich, Rotterdam,Cologne, Coblence, Vienna 10 9Calais and Paris,8 7 10 2DittoStrasburg, Munich, Salzburg 12 3 2 10 8 0Hamburg (steamer)Berlin, Dresden, Prague, Vienna2.TRIESTE TO CORFU AND ALEXANDRIA.A.Trieste to Alexandria direct every Saturdayat midnight, arriving at Corfu, on Monday, in Alexandria on Friday9 12 0 7 0 1115 0 0 10 0 04 GUIDE TO TURKEY.B.COASTING LINE TO CORFU AND ALEXANDRIA.Trieste to PolaDitto Zara Ditto SebenicoDitto SpalatoDitto Ragusa Ditto CattaroDitto BuduaDitto Antivari DittoDitto Durazzo..Corfu1 Class. 2 Class.£0 10 10 0 751 13 8 1 2 71 18 7 1 602 3 0 1 8 102 17 6 1 18 63 2 5 2 1 10 3 2 5 2 1 10 3 18 8 2 14 64 10 0 3205 6 040 0Corfu to Alexandria, every Tuesday, in Alexandria, Friday ..... 8 18 0 5 8 03.Alexandria to Cairo Cairo to SuezAlexandria to Jaffa (Austrian Lloyd's)Beyrout to Smyrna4.Ditto AlexandrettaAlexandretta to Cyprus...1 5 4 0 14 61 7 7 0 16 02 14 0 2 2 08 20 5 0 0Ditto RhodesDitto SmyrnaSmyrna to Constantinople Ditto SyraDitto Piræus (Athens)Ditto Messina (Reggio, Italy)Ditto TriesteDitto Marseille3862 2 07 13 42701 10 05 16 014 4 11 10 2 014 7 2 10 16 105.CONSTANTINOPLE TO LONDON.A.Constantinople to Syra Ditto Ditto CorfuTriesteTrieste to London, viâ Paris (see No. 1 ,section B.)4 0 0 2 17 07 13 6 5 9 613 12 0 9 18 012 3 2 10 8 0PRELIMINARIES . 5B.1 Class.CONSTANTINOPLE TO LONDON, viâ THE DAnube.a.1 8 0Constantinople to Varna (steamer, 17 hours) £1 14 6Varna to Rustchuck (railway, 8 hours)Rustchuck to Basiasch (Austrian boats)Basiasch to Pesth (railway)Pesth to Vienna (railway)2 Class.1 6 6104... 4 10 0 300200 1 10 01 69 1 0 0Vienna to London, viâ Linz, Passau, Nürnberg, Rotterdam, Harwich Ditto7 13 2 5 7 10viâ Calais and Paris ...... 9 14218 5 6b.CONSTANTINOPLE TO LONDON, viâVarna, Rustchuck, and thence to Vienna, by the Danube entirely; Constantinople toVienna (including provisions)Vienna to London (see No. 5, section B, a. )Total, viâ Vienna, including provisions,from Constantinople to Vienna, eitherpartly by rail or entirely by water, except from Varna to Rustchuck...Constantinople to London, totalC.12 3 77 13 28 11 05 7 1019 16 9 13 18 10CONSTANTINOPLE TO LONDON, viâ MARSEILLE AND PARIS.Constantinople to Messina Messina to Marseille ... Marseille to LondonParis, total Constantinople to London, viâ Marseille andD.CONSTANTINOPLE TO LONDON BY SEA.With Smith, Saunders, & Co's. steamers ,from East Lane Stairs (circa)BRANCH LINES FROM CONSTANTINOPLE.A.Constantinople to Gallipoli9 7 10 7 0 106 12 2 5 0 106 13 7 5 3022 13 7 17 4 820 0 0 15 0 0Ditto Dardanelles.6 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Volo ..... PiræusSyra Rhodes..Cyprus.. AdaliaTEConstantinople to Lagos Ditto SalonicaDittoDittoDitto DittoDitto DittoDittoDitto DittoDitto DittoDittoDittoDittoMessinaAlexandrettaLatakiaTripoli BeyroutCaifa (Mount Carmel)Jaffa ....1 Class. 2 Class.£ 4 9 0 3 06 5 1 0 3 13 63 4 0 2 3 64 0 0 2 17 011 10 6 7 14 013 5 08 18Alexandria (direct) ......... 10 11 0 6 1596B.Constantinople to Ineboli Ditto Sinope DittoDittoDittoSamsounKerasunt..Trapezunt (Trebizonde) 6 0 1 4 26C.Constantinople to Burgos .Ditto Varna 1 14 6 1 6 6Ditto Sulina Ditto Tultscha Ditto Galatz Ditto Ibraila5 6 65 10 63 19 04 3 07.LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA, viâ MARSEILLE.A.London to Marseille, viâ Paris (Calais) ..Marseille to Alexandria, viâ Messina (withthe Messageries Impériales) ...6 14 8 5 3 018 5 8 11 15 2PRELIMINARIES.B. 1 Class. 2 Class.MARSEILLE TO ALEXANDRIA, vià MARSEILLE AND MALTA.Marseille to Malta, (P. & O. Co.) .£10 00500Marseille to Alexandria, (P. & O. Co.) 20 0 0 10 0 0London to Alexandria, by sea (from South- ampton)30 0 0 19 0 0London to Gibraltar (P. & O. Co.) by sea... 13London to Malta, (P. & O. Co.) by sea ... 2000 9000 0 12 0 08,LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA, viâ BRINDISI.A.London to Trieste (see No. 1 , sec. A & B.) .. 10 12 Trieste to Brindisi, including provisionsTrieste to Alexandria ditto8... 3 12 012 16 07 16 62 12 0940B.London to Venice (see No. 1 , sec. A, a, b. ) ... Venice to Brindisi, including provisions ... Ditto AlexandriaBrindisi to Alexandriaditto..C.London to Paris (viâ Calais) ....Paris to Turin (viâ Mont Cenis)Turin to AlexandriaLondon, Alexandria, total viâ Paris, Turin,BrindisiD.6 12209 0 0000600902 2 16 012 8 011 0 0 82 13 10 2 0 04 14 711 12 919 1 0London to Munich..Munich to Verona, viâ Kufstein, Insbruck,BotzenVerona to VeniceVenice to Alexandria...Total, London to Alexandria, viâ Munich,Verona, Venice, Brindisi7 2 1 6 6 02 1 3 1 9 100 12 O 08012 8 0 9 0 022 3 4 17 3 108 GUIDE TO TURKEY.9.1 Class. 2 Class .DIRECT SEA LINE FROM LIVERPOOL (JAMES Moss) .Liverpool to Bordeaux Ditto GibraltarDitto Malta ..Ditto Alexandria .Ditto Beyrout .Ditto Alexandretta..10.RESUME.A.£5 0 010 0 012 12 016 16 025 0 025 0 01. London to Alexandria, viâ Liverpool, by Moss's steamers2. London to Beyrout, viâ Liverpool, by Moss's steamersB3. London to Alexandria, viâ Trieste, (seeNo. 1 , sec. A, B; No. 2, sec. A)18 11 0 17 12 026 15 0 26 6 025 1 8 17 8 94. London to Constantinople, viâ Trieste,(see No. 1, sec. A, B; No. 5 , sec. A) ... 23 13 8 17 6 95. London to Constantinople, viâ Vienna and the Danube6. London to Constantinople, viâ Marseille and Messina19 16 9 13 18 1022 13 7 17 4 8C.7. London to Alexandria, viâ Marseille and Messina8. London to Alexandria, Marseille andMalta (P. & O. boats)9. London to Alexandria, viâ Brindisi 10. London to Alexandria, viâ Munich,Verona, Brindisi .....D.11. London to Constantinople, by sea (see No. 5, sec. D.)23 0 4 16 18 226 14 8 15 3 019 1 022 3 4 17 3 1020 0 0 15 00PRELIMINARIES. 9The above tables contain very nearly all the railway andsteam- boat fares the traveller can wish for. They have beencompiled with the greatest care, but as the rate of exchangevaries, and alterations are made from time to time, the touristshould previously consult the current Bradshaw to avoid anymistake.It will be seen, on reference to No. 10, of the Resumé, thatthe routes vary considerably in price. The cheapest way isfrom Liverpool, by Moss's steamers, £18 11s.; the most expensive, that viâ Marseille, with the P. & O. steamers, £26 14s. 8d.Intermediate come the Trieste, Marseille and Brindisi routes.The peculiaradvantages possessed bythesevarious routes we shalldiscuss in the proper place, and now finish the head of expense.The outlay for the journey out and home averages , as evidenced above, £37—£53, including provisions, during a term of20 to 24 days. For a short tour of 7 days in Egypt, duringwhich all the objects of interest round about Cairo, includingthe Great Pyramids, Suez and the Suez Canal, can be seen;of 14 days in Palestine, sufficient for a tour through the countryfrom Jerusalem toBeyrout and Damascus, £40-£50 will amplysuffice, and if a little roughing it be not shunned £30. One pounda day will generally meet all moderate demands, and most ofthis pound will go to theHOTELS,which, throughout the East, are generally bad, and dear in ratioto their badness. We shall give the various prices of each onthe routes to the East, in their proper places, when an asterisksignifies excellent; which said asterisk, on any legitimatecomplaints concerning the management, being sent to BRADSHAW'S GUIDE Office, 59, Fleet Street, will certainly be eliminated in the next edition. In Palestine the place of hotelsis to a great extent supplied by the monasteries of the TerraSanta, belonging to the order of the Franciscans, extending fromJaffa and Jerusalem, to Beyrout. No payment is enforced,but is left to the charity of the guests. The customary sumfor the ordinary traveller is 10 francs per diem, for board andlodging, which are both generally simple but good. I say the10 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ordinary traveller. I have known a party consisting of one ofour most eminent merchants, an M.P., ofone ofthe partners in acelebrated banking firm in Mammon Street, and a gentleman inreceipt of £12,000 a year, pay no more, after giving trouble inproportion to their position. Such instances give us no goodname, and considering the difficulties in obtaining provisionsand the expense incurred in keeping up these monastic establishments, combining refreshments both for earthly and heavenlyroutes, it behoves every man to pay according to his means.The proper choice of a hotel is so important, that we have givenextra attention to the subject in all its aspects, although fromthe constant changes occurring it is a subject of great difficultyto deal with. Nothing is so annoying as being cheated or overcharged at the last moment; as a bad dinner, or an inconvenientposition, and unhealthy situation . We have avoided namingseveral hotels, excellent in all other respects, but deficient in thislast. What boots excellence, if you wake up riddled withmosequito and gnat bites, or with an attack of tertian fever,caused by the damp?In France, and Germany the prices are fixed, but in Italy thetraveller should always inquire beforehand what the charges willbe, and in the East, make a bargain if intending to stay for aweek or longer. Always have your bill brought the nightbefore leaving, and go through it. It is astonishing how manymistakes are made to the detriment of the Tourist; but onenever heard of the landlord's suffering any loss. A constantsource of annoyance is the charge for ' bougies, ' candles, whichprobably have not been burnt half- an- inch; but figure invariably at one franc (10d) . Travellers should combine againstthis gross abuse. Soap will never be found; it is alwayscharged extra . Beds should always be well aired at the fire,before sleeping in them, for two excellent reasons, first, theymay be damp, most injurious in warm climates, and secondly,the fire is sure to draw out any germs of disease, which may havebeen left by the last visitor, for few landlords will have theirsheets washed after only one night's use. They are merelydamped, and placed into a press, the same as the table napkins.PRELIMINARIES. 11In many German hotels, the beds are not made till the room istaken. Germany, on the whole, is not so bad in this respect;for the Germans are so particular, that they look with horroron the English custom of sleeping two in a bed, even thoughthose two be man and wife. In Italy everyone, and everything,has a horror of water, both inwardly and externally; so extracare is required in the " Giardino dell' Europa."There are certain advantages in leaving one's door unlockedat night, as in case of fire, illness, etc. But in the East, at leastin Alexandria and Constantinople, locking it should not beneglected. Valuables and money should always be handed overto the landlord, for safe keeping, for the whole of the Levantswarms with Greek " klephti " (thieves) and Maltees, who areborn for the express purpose of thieving. Added to which,Turkey and Egypt being free countries, all the scum of Greecewhich is too bad even for the Hellenes themselves to tolerate,which is saying a great deal, seeks refuge in the land of onionsand garlic, and fatten on the flesh- pots of the Egyptians and thestrangers in the land.As some of the most agreeable reminiscences (disagreeableones too! ) are connected with the hotels one visits in the courseof a journey, some of them being almost like another home in aforeign land, we will here mention a few, presenting such comforts and advantages as are shared by but few of our moderncaravanserais, and we beg the reader to bear in mind that thisextra notice has not been paid for in hard cash by the respectiveproprietors. They are not arranged in any definite order; unless, indeed, it be accordingto the greater merit they possess in oureyes, which at the present moment rest upon a photograph ofthe Hotel du Parc at Lugano, on the lake of Lugano in Switzerland, though the image of this hotel is more indelibly impressed upon our mind, than on the cold paper. The landlord,Mr. Bär, is first of all a gentleman, and secondly, a perfectmodel of a model host. His hotel, formerly a monastery,charmingly situated, is elegantly and comfortably furnished,the cuisine excellent, and the charges moderate withal.At Varenna on Lake Como, we urgently recommend Hotel12 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Victoria, though not so moderate as the Hotel du Parc, at Lugano.In Venice, the Hotel Stadt München, or Munich, is all thatone can desire in point of comfort.In Messina, Kellermann's Hotel, or Hotel Victoria, is one ofthe best in Italy. In Rome, Hotel Minerva; in Malta, Dunscombe's Hotel; in Alexandria, Abbat's; in Cairo, Hotel du Nil,which, though in the centre of the town, is the best conductedin Egypt, and, in addition, is frequented by most of the attachésto the various embassies, and other officials of the city. InJerusalem, Hauser's Hotel, on the Pool of Hezekiah, is by farthe best, and though its position on the Pool may seem to militate against this opinion, there is no disadvantage arising fromit, as the water is pure (drinking water, in fact) and the heatprevents the walls retaining any humidity.66LOCOMOTION.With the exception of a few railways, the diligences fromBeyrout to Damascus, from Joppa to Jerusalem, and thesteamboats on the Golden Horn and the Nile, all locomotion inthe East is accomplished on horse or donkey- back. Thedonkey plays an important part in Egypt and southernPalestine. Lowly, " and " riding on an ass, " are not nowsynonymous, whatever may have been the case in the days ofthe Apostles, and the Eastern donkey is by no means the contemptible animal he is in Europe. A good donkey fetches ashigh a price as a horse, and after the first few days in Egyptone would no more think of using one's own legs, than of riding a costermonger's Jack down Regent Street. The hire isabout a franc an hour for a donkey, and one-and- a-half to twofor a horse. The horses have a peculiar pace, half amble, halfwalk, which enables them to get over a good deal of ground inthe day. Very few trot. Walk, amble, and gallop, are theirpaces. When intending to make a longer tour it is best to buya horse, and sell him when leaving. The price of a fair animalis from 8 to 12 Napoleons (£6 to 10) and he will always fetch asmuch after having been made use of on the journey, at merelythe price of his food . For those who object to using the TurkishPRELIMINARIES. 13saddle, somewhat like our common cavalry saddle, it will bemost prudent to take an English one, though it would be a merechance not to be able to secure one on the spot . Horses shouldbe fed only twice a day, and not allowed to be watered except inthe morning and evening, nor should they have oats, which aretoo heating; barley is their proper food.GUIDES AND DRAGOMEN.Guides and hoc genus omne, as everywhere else , are the mischief. Not one in fifty can be thoroughly trusted , so there isno more to be said about them, except that agreements for along tour should be signed at the consul's , and that when thetraveller wishes to buy anything, he should not do so when hisdragoman is present, for they invariably expect a commissionfrom the vendor, who naturally adds it to the price of the articlehe sells . Still, for those who cannot travel alone, the dragomanis a necessary evil . He generally finds everything, and thecharge is usually £1 per person a day when the party consistsof several. Otherwise a definite bargain must be made andratified, as we have already said, at the consul's; local guidesdemand as much as they think they can get, but will act for 5francs a day. Carriages, in Egypt, 20 francs a day.LIVING.In no country is moderation in eating and drinking, so conducive to health as in the East. Heavy wines, ale , and stout,should be avoided, as well as heavy meals, such as beef and pork.The latter is especially injurious. Poultry, mutton, eggs, andfish, are the staple articles of food . Water should also beindulged in sparingly, and should always be mixed with thelightest wines of the country. Cyprus wine is most generallyused. All kinds of fruit can be enjoyed with impunity, exceptpeaches and apricots , which can seldom be procured of a properripeness. Oranges, figs, bananas, grapes, and melons especially,are excellent and wholesome. Vegetables of all kinds abound.Egypt is still, par excellence, the land ofonions, garlic, melons andcucumbers. Of the national dishes, the chief are, pillau (rice14 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Wand poultry); kibobs , small pieces of mutton broiled on a skewer;leban, milk artificially soured; halwar, a kind of sweet- meatmade of sesame seed and honey, and mish-mish, dried apricots,stewed. The restaurants in the larger towns provide eitherFrench or Italian cookery, and are generally notorious for theirrich, oily dishes . Their soups, with grated parmesan, however,are very good, also their artichokes. Olives are excellent, assoon as the traditional three have once been mastered. Especially good for whetting the appetite, are the " piperone," orpickled pepper pods, and ten times better than soda water forthe cure of seediness and general disgust of human nature, whenoccasioned by too copious libations of champagne, etc. Of drinks,nothing approaches the " limonata gazosa" (limonade gazeuse)which can be had anywhere for half a franc a bottle. TheGerman beers (Vienna) are the lightest and best, but can onlybe procured in the larger towns. The Turks and Arabs are veryfond ofbeer, " piva" (in Turkish) , of which, as it is not forbiddenin the Koran, they do not hesitate to avail themselves. Coffeenaturally abounds, but the tourist ought to provide himself withplenty of tea, than which nothing is so refreshing after a longday's toil . Finally, tobacco is plentiful, cheap, and mild. Freshmilk is scarce and difficult to be procured, so a few tins of AngloSwiss condensed milk, will be very serviceable to those whocannot do without it.ACCOUTREMENTS.LinenWewill begin at the head and go down to the feet. The lightIndian hats with a puggery round them are the best. Woollenshirts are most advisable and next to them thick calico.is not to be recommended. Coat, waistcoat, and trousers, shouldalways be of some light woollen stuff-tweed for instance, andfor the feet, by all means canvas shoes. The following articleswill be found of great service.2 thick rugs1 waterproof sheetFrying-pan and gridironVarious straps and buckles

• Those marked with a star can be procured in Alexandria or any of the large towns.

PRELIMINARIES. 15UmbrellaSpoon, knife and forkWalking-stick (with crookhandle)Flask and metal cupTea and coffee potsMetal platesCamp-stoolDrinking syphon

• Tea

Condensed milkPotted meatsLiebig's meat-extractHammer, nails, and gimletRevolver (Deane & Adams)Fowling- pieceFolding-bath and spongesTowels, soapWhite waterproofcoatFishing-rod and netAir- pillowCooking apparatusPROVISIONS.

• Brandy (Curaçoa)
• Biscuits

MustardChutneyBooks.Lantern

• Pickles
• Land and the Book, (Thomp- ** Palestine (Eli Smith, and

son) Robinson)Eöthen (Kinglake) * Reise in Palestina, Titus Tobler ( German)Holy Land (Dixon) ** Sinai (Dean Stanley)MAPS.

• • Van de Velde's Map of

Palestine

• Kiepert's Turkey in Asia
  • Stolpe's. Constantinople
• Kiepert's Turkey in Europe.

All these maps are the best extant, and can be procured atMessrs. Williams & Norgate, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden.MONEY.Almost every coin under the sun will be found in the East.Sovereigns, ducats, sequins, Napoleons, Turkish and Egyptiansovereigns, roubles, dollars, francs, rupees, annas, shillings, sixpences-a perfect Babel of a currency. The adjoined table willshow their respective values, always subject, however, to variation in the rate of exchange, which must be ascertained on the

• Signifies excellent. ** Superlative.

16 GUIDE TO TURKEY. COUNTRIES . COIN .Thaler. grn SilberPfennigeGuldenKreuzerPfennigeGuldenNeukreuzerFrancsCentimesSARoublesKopecksDollarsCentsd.8.Germany North Thaler ... of130Groschen Pfennige 121South Germany ... 1Gulden Kreuzers of60Pfennige 4Austria ..Italy ...GreeceEngland1Drachme ofLepta 100 ..£1of20s .12d1Gulden of100 Neukreuzer .France Belgium , Switzerland 1Franc of100 Centimes8 0 ... 1Lira of100 Centesimi1172 1 ...20 1 ...CO38888 45 1 50 3 10 ...186...75 3211250

... ...

38592 7082 ...: ...

...

5362......40999054632928 40101

7 3CO6 20

...

2325 2540111 ... 336... 90

... 10 25 ... ... States Papal Scudo 1Paoli of10Bajocchi 13 231 1 2 9 538

NetherlandsRussia Rouble 1ofKopecks 100Spain 1Douro of20Reals ......Turkey .. 1Piastre of40ParasDittoDittoEgypt1Gulden of100 Cents ... ... 17 59 2 ... ... ...12 6 1 54 ...:885་12 6 291 9 ... ...6 1Medjidie of100 Piastres (Gold )Silver Medjidie of20PiastresParas 1iastre of40,97Piastres to£1 ... .........addition Inthere larg are pieces 5piastre called "Beschliks ,and 2Beschlik piastres half a....

...

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9 22...611852126342137540...43181321 3352

31: 42140

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... ...PRELIMINARIES. 17spot. French gold is the best to provide oneself with, or elsewith circular notes, which can be procured at the London andWestminster Bank, Coutts' , and the rest of the chief LondonBanks, payable at Alexandria, Cairo, Jerusalem, Beyrout,Smyrna, Constantinople, Athens, Trieste, Vienna.MEDICINES.The only disease natural to the country which must beguarded against, is the Syrian or Tertian fever, for which thetraveller should take castor oil and quinine with him, with directions for using them from some doctor. If at a distance fromany medical man and without proper instructions, a dose ofcastor oil should first be taken, in spite of the diarrhoea, withwhich the fever generally sets in, and then-say 12 to 24 hoursafterwards, a dose of quinine. Eat moderately; beef tea (weak)with plenty of pepper is the best thing, but by all means hasten to the nearest town for advice.On first visiting the East, the traveller is almost sure to sufferfrom a slight attack of diarrhoea, which should be allowed to takeits natural course, or even promoted by a dose of castor oil orrhubarb pills . If it last too long or be of great severity, againindulge in peppery beef- tea, or take a small dose of opium. Astock of diachylon plaster should be taken, and a bottle of spiritsofcamphor to stop bleeding and heal any severe or jagged cuts .In such cases, if there be no camphor at hand, pour strongvinegar or salt and water over the cut. For the cure of mosquitoand gnat bites, we recommend carbonate of soda just moistenedand laid over the affected part. In lieu ofthe carbonate a littlecigar or tobacco ash will serve the same purpose. By all meanstake plenty of carbonate of soda and tartaric acid with you,which, with lemon or orange juice will procure you a delightfulbeverage at no trouble. Never sleep with a window open, andif obliged to camp out in the open air always cover your head toprotect it from the dew. When eating green figs never touchyourface or eyes with your hands under penalty of injuring youroptical organs, and do not sit or sleep under a fig- tree for thesame reason. The phrase, “ sitting under one's own fig-tree,"C18 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ought to be abolished . When eating the fruit of the cactus,take great care to remove the outer skin completely, and take carethat your hands are quite free from the almost invisible thorns,that will drive you half mad if they get into your throat . Liquidammonia is very good for scorpion and snake bites, thoughin thelatter case, the part bitten should be cut out at once, or at anyrate gashed three or four times across to induce copious bleeding. A solution of nitrate of silver (caustic) will be of servicein case of ophthalmia or inflammation of the eyes . When inflammation commences bathe the eyes with rose-water or spirits ofwine. Ifwith the latter, take care to close the eye-lid . Shouldit getworse, then drop one or two drops of sulphate of zinc, or nitrateof silver (diluted) into the eyes. Keep them well shaded from thelight, and abstain from taking anyheating food or drinks. Essenceof fennel is also an excellent remedy for weak eyes and inflammation. Finally, take a box of mercurial ointment, for one of theplagues of Egypt still remains in full force, and the man whotakes a packet of Keating's Insect Powder with him will be wisein his generation.Of course, in case ofillness the tourist will at once consult withthe nearest doctor; the above suggestions are merely thrownout in case of necessity, and it should be borne in mind that theEast is excessively healthy; not one person in fifty has ever hadany need for medical advice.PASSPORT.Instructions for obtaining passports will be found in Bradshaw's Continental Guide, but in addition , the tourist shouldprovide himself with a Ferman, Buyurdi or Teskereh, if he intends travelling more in the interior than usual.A Ferman can only be obtained from the Sultan or a Pashaof the highest rank, and it is only necessary for some especialpurposes, such as for scientific visits to the mosques and government institutions . A ferman is indispensable for visiting themosque at Hebron, where Abraham and Sarah are buried.The Buyurdi and Teskereh are almost identical, but are onlyvalid for the province in and for which they are issued. Thus,PRELIMINARIES. 19a buyurdi from Osman Pasha in Bosnia, is only available forBosnia, and the Herzogovina. With a buyurdi, the travellercan demand lodging from the Christians of every town and villageof the district, and compel the " menzils" or post- offices of theGovernment, to furnish him with post-horses at the governmentprice, viz. 1 piastre an hour (3d. ) .When travelling in the Austrian provinces of Croatia andDalmatia, it is absolutely necessary to have one's passport properly viséd, and also to be furnished with letters of recommendation to the municipal authorities or other persons of note.Every ragged Croat that ever had a military button on his coatwill ask to see your " passaporta, " and very likely ask you too,to read and translate it to him. In Turkey you will never beasked for it, when once in the interior, and it will only be necessary to show it in case of requiring assistance or protection.LANGUAGES.Of all European languages Italian will be found the mostuseful and easiest to learn. English and French are spoken atall the better class of hotels in Germany and Italy. In Egyptand Palestine as far as Alexandretta, Arabic is the popular language; in Asia Minor, Turkish. For Turkey in Europe thelanguages vary with the provinces. The various dialects of theSlavonic are spoken in Bosnia, Servia, Bulgaria, Roumelia,and the Herzegovina and Greek in the littoral of the Mediterranean. For the use of travellers journeying to and in theEast, Messrs. Bradshaw have published an excellent little bookcontaining all the phrases usually required in French, German,Italian, Arabic, Turkish, and English. By the help of thesedialogues and the present Guide, any man of self- reliance,courage, and firmness, can safely travel alone through thegreater portion of the Empire, by adhering to the routes andprecautions we shall presently especially mention for this purpose.TIME FOR TRAVEL IN THE EAST.The best time to be chosen for travelling in the East naturallydepends, firstly, upon the parts to be visited, and, secondly,c 220 GUIDE TO TURKEY.upon the length of time to be devoted to the tour. Supposinga year be determined on, we should recommend the followingplan.Pass January and half of February in visiting Venice, Trieste,the Dalmatian Coast and Corfu; March and April: Athens, theMorea, Thessaly, Epirus, and Albania; May: the Herzegovina, Montenegro, and Bosnia; June: Servia, and the Danubeto Constantinople; July and August: the Dardanelles, theislands of the Archipelago, Smyrna, the Seven Churches ofAsia Minor, and the plains of Troy; September, October, andNovember: Syria, Palestine, and Egypt, winding up with aDecember tour up the Nile.For a three months' visit leave England the end of January,pass a week or ten days in Egypt; a month in Palestine, anduse the remaining time for Syria and Constantinople; or elsesail for Beyrout via Constantinople and Smyrna, proceed southwards through Palestine, and pass the latter part of November in Egypt, returning via Trieste and Marseille.For the regular Nile tour up to the Cataracts and back,November, December, and January.For Palestine alone there are two seasons , each possessingits own peculiar charms. The first commences in March andlasts till May, during which time the country appears under itsmost fertile aspect, and the Easter ceremonies take place . Thisseason , however, is the most expensive and most uncomfortable,owing to the great influx of pilgrims, causing the prices ofhorses and hotel accommodation to rise to double the normalamount. In addition to these disadvantages the weather atthis period is still very unsettled , and when it once rains in theEast it does so with a vengeance.The autumn is, on the whole, the best time to visit Palestine.The weather is settled, the tints of the landscape most varied,the best fruits, especially grapes and figs, in their prime. Nobetter time can be chosen for the district from Alexandretta toNazareth, when everything will be in its full autumn glory, andsouthwards the country, burnt up by the summer heats, presents the desolate aspect corresponding to our ideas of the HolyPRELIMINARIES. 21Land, more so than is the case in spring. In summer the heatis too great for Europeans to travel in comfort.ALONE THROUGH THE EAST.We have already hinted that with some knowledge of thelanguage it is perfectly possible to travel through Palestine andSyria quite alone and unhampered by dragomen. The greatcharm of travelling in the East is the absolute independence ofrailways and time tables enjoyed by the tourist. No hurryscurry to catch the train; and no rushing along at forty milesan hour. The tourist can be perfectly independent if he do notbuy himself a master in hiring a dragoman. With a dragomanhe still remains fettered with all the shackles, luxuries, and conventionalities of modern life. But if he choose to take thechance of having to rough it now and then as, and in the mannerthe author of the following lines did, he will, no doubt, enjoyhis journey equally as much. And this is the route:After arriving in Constantinople or Alexandria, as the casemay be, see what there is to be seen in either of the places, andthen start for the point at which you intend entering Palestineor Syria, which will be either Jaffa, Beyrout, or Alexandretta.We will suppose Jaffa to be the starting point, bearing in mindthat whatever applies to this route holds good with the rest.You will have to start with the following conveniences:-Aleatherknapsack, containing: -three woollen shirts, six dittopair of socks, one suit of clothes, two towels, in case of emer- gency slippers, and the usual toilet accessories . Further, twostouttravellingrugs, air- cushion, hammer, gimlet and nails, diversstraps, and a coil of strong whip- cord; a cooking apparatus,plate, spoon, knife- and-fork, and metal cup and flask . If you can manage a couple of sheets, so much the better, in case ofcamping out, by which is also meant having to sleep at a khan,or some peasant's house. In such cases lay one rug on a heap ofstraw orhay, then your sheets andyour second rugon the top, withyour air- cushion for a pillow. You will take a revolver, by allmeans, and a fowling- piece, if a sportsman. Thus equippedeither buy a horse, in Jaffa or Jerusalem, or else hire one for22 GUIDE TO TURKEY.the distance you intend going. The price of hire varies withthe time of the year: at Easter it would not be less than 40 to 50piastres (about 5 shillings) a day, in the autumn about 30 piastres(one shilling equals 10 piastres) , added to which you will have topay for the servant's horse, and also for the servant's food as longas he is with you. Thus the charge for the two horses, and theman to look after them, will be about ten shillings a day. Theman of course takes your luggage on to his own beast. If youbuy ahorse, you can get onefor 10 to 15 Napoleons ( 8 to 12 pounds),and sell him at your journey's end. His keep will cost aboutoneshilling a day, and his sale will generally fetch the price you paid for him. You give him to the town crier, who takes himthrough the streets, and is sure to make the best bargain hecan, as he receives a proportionate commission.We will suppose you have seen Jerusalem, and its vicinity,and are about to start on your journey northwards. Startbetimes for Nablus, where you will find a lodging at a Samaritan'swho keeps a kind of inn. The next day go on past Samaria, toJenin, where you will have to locate yourself either in the khanor one of the private houses, where you will have to pay fromthree to five shillings for supper, lodging and breakfast. Butdo not imagine your breakfast and supper on a Europeanmodel; your supper will consist either of a pillau, or poultry;ditto your breakfast, coffee ad libitum; otherwise you willbe thrown upon your own resources. From Jenin, you will goon to Nazareth, and take up your abode at the Monastery of theTerra Santa, and pay ten francs a day, for board and lodging.From Nazareth, proceed to Tiberias, where you can lodge eitherat the monastery or at Mr. Weissmann's inn, with whom, however, you had better make an agreement. But do not pay morethanten shillings a day. After having remained as long as youwish in Tiberias, and about the lake of Galilee, return toNazareth. Thence to Caipha, or the monastery on MountCarmel. Usual charges. From Mount Carmel, supposingyou have only hired a horse so far, take the steamboat toBeyrout, thence by diligence to Damascus and Baalbek. If youhave bought a steed however, you will go on to Acre, wherePRELIMINARIES. 23you lodge again in the Latin monastery. From Acre ten hourswill bring you to Tyre, or Sur, where a certain Greek keeps amiserable inn. From Tyre to Sidon, you will have nine hours ride,and lodge in the Roman Catholic monastery, and ride the nextday in eight hours to Beyrout, where you will find a choice ofhotels.From Beyrout goto Damascus-From Damascus inten to elevenhours to Baalbek; from Baalbek to Ainitha, and the Cedars ofLebanon: and thence to Tripoli, whence a ten hours' ride willbring you back to Beyrout, by way of Dschebil, the ancientByblos, and across the Nahr Ibrahim, the ancientAdonis, and the Nahr-el- Kelb (River of the Dog) or Lykos. Ifintending to proceed northwards from Beyrout, to Alexandretta,it would be saving time to return straight from Baalbek, toBeyrout, and then go on to Dschebil, paying a visit on the wayto the establishments at Antura, and El Ghazir, the first acollege conducted by the Pères Lazaristes, the second by theJesuits, and from Dschebil, across Cape Theuprosopon, to Tartusthe ancient Marathos, the medieval Tortosa. From Tortosa toLatakia, the ancient Laodicea. Take up your quarters at theTerra Santa. From Latakia to Antioch, where you will haveto put up at the Capuchin monastery. From Antioch toSuweidieh, the ancient Seleucia. Back to Antioch, and thenceto Aleppo, or by the pass of Beilan, to Alexandretta, where youwill sell your steed, if you have not done so in Antioch, which isthe better place, and ship for Smyrna, or Constantinople, orwherever you list.The whole of this journey can be performed alone, without theslightest danger, at the cost of living, as we have seen, of aboutten shillings a day, and such is the route which, with variousdeviations and excursions, the author himself followed.All detailed information will be found in the various routes,which now follow. We have prepared the traveller for hisjourney and will start at once with—24 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE I.London to Constantinople, or Alexandria, via Venice,and Trieste, via Bale and Arona.[ For expense, see page 3, No 1. a. ]THERE are various routes to Bâle, for which the Tourist mustconsult Bradshaw's Continental Guide, for the current month.We commence with Cologne, which can be reached by avariety of routes. That viâ Harwich and Rotterdam is thecheapest, and very often the quickest; but you cannot dependon the steamers always being able to cross the bar before Rotterdam, and therefore risk losing a day.Cologne.HOTELS: **Hotel Disch: B.B. 1 Thl. 20 sgr. D. 24 sgr.

• • Holländischer Hof: B.B. 1 Thl. 20 sgr. D. 20 sgr. Kölnischer

Hof: B.B. 23 sgr. D. 17. *Hotel de Russie: B.B. 20 sgr.D. 23. *Hotel du Dôme: B.B. 20 sgr. D. 17. *Hotel Kleff:B.B. 20 sgr. D. w. W. 17.CABS: Per course for 1-2 persons, 5 sgr; 3 persons, 7; 4persons, 10.MONEY CHANGers, and BankeRS: Hellwitz & Co.BOOKSELLERS: F. C. Eisen, Domhof, 13.EAU DE COLOGNE: Johann Anton Farina, City of Milan, 129,Hoch Strasse, and 3a, Domkloster.SIGHTS: THE CATHEDRAL: Commenced in 1248, according tothe plans of Gerhard von Riehl, and, as tradition hath it, will notbe completed till Germany is united. The chief objects ofattraction are:

• Signifies excellent; ** very excellent, B.B, bed and breakfast, D, dinner, S, supper.

ROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 251. Chapel of the Three Kings: (fee 4s . 6d) . Containing therelics of the Three Holy Kings, brought by Frederick I. fromMilan, where they had got to in course of time, after theEmpress Helena had conveyed them from Jerusalem toConstantinople.2. Chapel of St. Stephen. With Overbeck's * " Ascension oftheVirgin." Very fine.3. Chapel of St. John, with a series of paintings , and designs(original) of the Cathedral.4. The Treasury.5. The Chapel of St. Agnes.Stephan Lachner.

• Celebrated Altar- piece, by

6. The Gallery, whence a splendid view of the interior will begained.Next to the Cathedral, the churches of St. Martin (Romanesque) , of St. Maria-in- Capitolio, and St. Kunibert, are thefinest, in an architectural sense. St. Ursula, with the bones of11,000 Virgins decorating it, is well worth the 7 sgr. charged.The * Church of St. Peter contains Rubens' celebrated " Crucifixion of St. Peter" (5 sgr) .The Jesuiten Kirche, or Jesuit's Church, has a peal of bells,cast from the cannon taken from Magdeburg, by Tilly, in theThirty Years' War. The Apostel Kirche, in the New Market,is the oldest in Cologne, dating from 1200.Worthy ofa visit are: The Museum in the Frankgasse, No 7;the house in which Rubens was born, 1577; the Richartz Museum,with some magnificent specimens of glass- painting; finally theStadt Museum (7 sgr) , and the Zoological Gardens. Music everyday; gardens tastefully laid out.On leaving Cologne, you cross the Rhine to Deutz, and ridethrough a flat uninteresting country, past Brühl to.Bonn.HOTELS: ** Golden Star. *Bellevue, B.B. 1 Thl. 20 sgr. D.24. *Grand Hotel Royal, B.B. 1 Thl 30 sgr. D. 24. Rheineck,B.B. 1 Thl. 10. D. 20.CABS: 5 sgr . per course 1-2 persons; 3—4, 7} —10.26 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Church ofEngland Service: Rev. T. S. M. Anderson.Scotch Church: Rev. W. Graham.English Reading Club: Neue Thor, 56.One of the most celebrated Universities, in Germany. Thecemetery, near the Sternenthor, is well worth a visit. Niebuhr(his monument by Rauch), Arndt, the poet, Schlegel, Mackeldey,Robert Schumann, the composer, and many other bygone celebrities, lie here interred . Beethoven's house is shown, in theRheingasse; it is now an inn. His monument stands in theMinster Platz. The Minster was founded in 320, by the EmpressHelena, of whom it contains a statue. It is built in the Byzantine style. The church of St. Remy, contains a fine picture bySpielberg. The University has a library of 15,000 volumes,and several collections of antiquities. The Hofgarten, theAlte Zoll, the Poppelsdorfer Castle, and the Kreuzberg offervery attractive promenades. Ancient name of Bonn, Castrobonnesia, mentioned often by Tacitus; fortified by Drusus.On leaving Bonn, seat yourself on the left side of the carriage,and you will shortly pass the Hochkreuz, or High Cross, a Gothicmonument 30 feet high, erected in 1332, to the memory of aknight who was killed in a duel. A few minutes before reaching Godesberg (*Hotel Blinzler) , the ruins of a castle, destroyedby the Bavarians in 1583, command an extensive view over theSiebengebirge. The next station, Mehlem, is also the stationforKonigswinter.HOTELS: * Berliner Hof; * Hotel Rieffel, B.B. 16 sgr.D. 12. The Abbey of Heisterbach is well worth an excursion from Königswinter, which is the German Nice, andis crowned by the ruins of the Drachenfels, which no one shouldomit visiting if time permit. Magnificent view.Past Königswinter, and shortly before Rolandseck, oppositethe Island of Nonnenwerth, the railway runs close along theriver side and often overhangs it as far as Remagen, where itcrosses a fertile plain called the " Goldene Meile, " passes Sinzig,approaches the Rhine at Nieder Breisig, and remains close toROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 27it, past the Castle of Rheineck to ANDERNACH, which, with itspicturesque watch- tower and ancient church, forms one of themost characteristic pictures on the Rhine. The Laacher Seein the vicinity is a singular lake filling up the crater of anextinct volcano. A stream of carbonic acid gas issues from acrevice on the N.E. side . The Abbey of Laach, a desertedbuilding, with five half- ruined towers, lends a peculiar charm tothe landscape.In twenty minutes from Andernach, the train rattles pastNeuwied, Weissenthurm, Mühlhofen, Kesselheim and Neuendorf toHOTELS:Coblenz.Riese and Bellevue: B.B. 35 sgr. D. 24.

• Anker: B. B. 22 sgr. D. 20. These are on the Rhine. In the

town: Hotel de Trèves; * Stadt Lüttich, B. B. 29 sgr. , D. 20.Stadt Lüttich is nearest the station.The fortress of EHRENBREITSTEIN is the object of greatest attraction in Coblence, which, except for its beautiful position, hasbut little to interest the general tourist. But from 55 B. c. , whenJulius Cæsar crossed the Rhine, close by at Engers, to the yearof grace 1797, the country round about Coblence has beendeluged with human blood. Charles the Bold against Lewisthe German (871); the Normans ( 882) , Otto the Guelph againstPhilip ofHohenstaufen ( 1198-1204) , the Thirty Years ' War, LouisXIV. (1631-36) , Marlborough and Colborn ( 1704) , Jourdain,Marceau and Hoche (1797) , all did their utmost to drench theplains with gore, and stain the sparkling Moselle and Rhine withthe deep red hand of war.The church of ST. CASTOR, with a painting by William ofCologne, is well worth a visit. It was founded in 836, andwithin its ancient walls the grandsons of Charlemagne met toportion out the Empire amongst themselves. Here also Edward III. of England was installed Vicar of the Empire, byLewis of Bavaria. The fountain before the church, the Castorbrunnen, is also an historical curiosity, having been erected bythe French Préfêt in occupation to commemorate the entrance28 GUIDE TO TURKEY.of his countrymen into Moscow. It bears the following inscrip- tions:" An. 1802. Mémorable par la campagne contre les Russes.Sous le préfecturat de Jules Doazan.”The Russian General, St. Priest, who entered Coblence, January 1, 1814, added the words: " Vu, et approuvé par nous,Commandant Russe de la Ville de Coblence, le 1 Jan. 1814."There are three different ways of reaching Mayence fromCoblence: 1. By boat, 1st class, 3 sh.; 2nd class, 2 sh.; time,8 hours.2. By rail, right bank, via Oberlahnstein; time 3 hours; 1stclass, 7 sh. 10d,; 2nd class , 5 sh.3. By rail, left bank, time 2 hours 20 minutes (express) 1stclass , 7 sh. 9d.; 2nd class, 5 sh. 9d.If there be time take the boat; for the scenery from Coblence to Mayence is the finest on all the Rhine. If you takethe railway on the Prussian bank, seat yourself to the left. Ifthe Nassau side, to the right. In the following description ofthe places, right and left are used as we stand sailing up the stream. By taking a ticket of more than two shillings, thetourist is allowed to break his journey at any station and continue it at pleasure. The following is the tariff of refreshments on board:-Coffee and rolls .Table d'hôte (at one)66 at other timesTHL. SGR. THL. SGR.· 0 8 Half bottle of Wine . 0 6• 0 20 Cup of Coffee • · • 0 211 0 Ice . · · 05After having passed the new railway-bridge, we come to theisland of Oberwerth, dividing the Rhine into two arms, and thesteamer, following the left one past the village of Horchheimand the St. Johanniskirche on the left, stops opposite the mouthof the Zahn, with Niederlahnstein on its right, and Oberlahnsteinon its left bank. The castle of Lahneck, the residence of anEnglishman, a Mr. Moriarty, by whomit has been restored inancient style, rises on a steep hill immediately behind the town.The old red building on the bank, in Oberlahnstein, was once aROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 29castle of the electors of Mayence. It was at the castle ofLahneck that Goethe composed his poem-"GEISTES - GRUSS.""Hoch auf dem alten Thurme steht," etc.Opposite Oberlahnstein the castle of STOTZENFELS rises abovethe village Capellen, commanding a magnificent view. It belongs to the King of Prussia, who rebuilt it, and where he entertained Queen Victoria, in 1845. Continuing our way we passRhense and Brey on the right, and Braubach with the Marksburg, 500 feet above the Rhine, on the left. The Marksburg isthe only castle on the Rhine that has never been destroyed, andis still garrisoned with some twenty men, and occasionally usedas a prison. The Rhine here makes a considerable bend to theright, after which we arrive atBoppard,on the right.HOTELS:-*Post; Spiegel .Boppard, the ancient Bandobriga, is one of the oldest townson the Rhine, and possesses many remains of its Roman fortifications. It is one of the fifty castles founded by Drusus onthe Rhine. There are two hydropathic establishments in Boppard, the Mühlbad and the Marienberg, the latter, formerly aBenedictine monastery, beautifully situated, according to theproverb:"Bernhardus, valles, montes Benedictus amabatOppida Franciscus , celebres Ignatius urbes. "The price for board, lodging, baths, and medical attendance, istwo pounds per week. The good old monks of old well knewwhere to locate themselves for the benefit of the flesh, for a shortway farther on we pass Camp, and then the monastery of Bornhofen, with the ruins of Liebenstein and Sternberg above, on the left. The Bornhofen church dates from the 15th century, andis a much frequented place of pilgrimage. Leaving Bornhofenwe pass Salzig, Weiler, and Hirzenach, on the right, and Nie30 GUIDE TO TURKEY.derkestert, or Ehrenthal and Welmich, with the ruins of theMaus above, on the left, and in ten minutes arrive at ST. Goar,on the right, opposite ST. GOARSHAUSEN on the left. The extensive ruins of the Rheinfels above St. Goar were sold by auction,in 1812, for £100. They are now the property of the King ofPrussia. The solitary castle perched up on high over St. Goarshausen is the Katz, formerly built by the founder of theRheinfels, the Count of Katzenellenbogen. St. Goarshausen isan excellent place whence to make excursions in the vicinity,especially to the castle of Reichenberg, two miles inland, celebrated for the delicacy of its inner architecture . Hotelsin St. Goarshausen: * Adler, B.B, 1 sh. 8d.; D. 1 sh. 6d.;S. 1 sh.Just above St. Goar the Rhine forms an oval, the middle ofwhich is filled up with what is called the Bank, and is celebratedfor its salmon fishery. It is bounded on the left by the celebratedLORELEI, which, at a distance of 400 yards up stream, bears aremarkable likeness in profile to Napoleon, and is the seat ofthe well-known legend Heine has embodied in his celebratedpoem: "The Lorelei."The first place after leaving the Lorelei is OBERWESEL, on theright; shortly before which a reef of seven rocks raises itselfa*gainst the foaming stream. They are called the Sieben Jungfrauen (seven virgins) . When they are passed, the old squaretower of Oberwesel every one is so familiar with, rises intoview. Excellent wine at Oberwesel. Hotel: Zum GoldenenPfropfenzieher, B.B. 16 sgr. , D. 12. The ruins above Oberwesel belonged to the Counts of Schönberg, one of whom waskilled, 1690, at the battle of the Boyne.In a few minutes the steamer reaches the PFALZ, an ancientcastellated building in the middle of the river, and according totradition was used by the Countesses Palatinate to present theirliege lords with heirs and heiresses in . In fact, it was erectedby the Emperor Lewis, to levy toll on all ships passing, which soenraged Pope John XIII, that he issued a bull commandingthe Archbishop of Treves to destroy the strong tower, “ quodLudovicus, olim Dux Bavaria, " did not refrain from undulyROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 31taxing goods there, to which end he had built this "turrimfortissimam. "CAUB, on the left bank, is overhung by the ruins of Gutenfels,where our countryman, Richard of Cornwall, who, reversingwhat appears to have been the natural order of things in regardto British and English Sovereigns, was chosen Emperor of Germany in 1257, met the fair Countess of Falkenstein, his subsequent wife.BACHARACH, celebrated for its wine, hence its name AraBacchi (altar of Bacchus) , with the ruins of Stahleck, and theGothic Chapel of St. Werner, dedicated to the memory of a boy,crucified by the Jews, in 1248, is the next place we pass . Onthe left, follow in succession, Lorchhausen, with the views ofNollingen, Lorch, with the craggy ascent behind, called theDevil's Ladder, and Assmannshausen. To the right, Niederheimbach with the Heimberg, Trechtingshausen with the Sooneckand the castles of Falkenburg and Rheinstein, which, with theirowners, all knights of black mail, were destroyed by Rudolphof Hapsburg. At Assmannshausen the river sweeps round tothe left, past the Ehrenfels and the rapids called the Bingerloch toHOTELS:Bingen.Zum Weissen Ross, B. B. 3 sh.; D. 2 sh. 6d.Bellevue, Victoria, same prices.Bingen closes the Rhine land of romance, and with Rüdesheimthe prosaic traffic of the generous earth begins. From princeto peasant, from Metternich of diplomatic fame to the lowestboor, all engage in the cultivation of the vine. The followingis a list of the choicest wines in the neighbourhood.AssmannshausenBacheracherCauberDeidesheimerHochheimerIngelheimerJohannisbergerEltvillerErbacherGeisenheimerHinterhausenMoselleOestricherPfalzerRüdesheimerRottländer3232 GUIDE TO TURKEY.There is nothing of particular note in Bingen, except theRochuscapelle, on a hill 360 feet high, erected during the plague1666, whence a magnificent view is obtained , which however,is surpassed by the viewfrom the Verzauberte Höhle (enchantedcave) , in Rüdesheim, affording three distinct miniature viewsthrough as many openings. Bishop Hatto's tower in the Rhine,or the Mäusethurm, is the scene of Southey's well- known legend ofBishop Hatto.BISHOP HATTO.Thesummer and autumn had been so wet,That in winter the corn was growing yet,'Twas a piteous sight to see all around The corn lie rotting on the ground.Every day the starving poor Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door,For he had a plentiful last year's store,And all the neighbourhood could tell His granaries were furnished well.At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day To quiet the poor without delay,He bade them to his great Barn repair,And they should have food for the winter there.Rejoiced the tidings good to hear,The poor folk flocked from far and near;The great barn was full as it could hold Of women and children, and young and old.Then when he saw it could hold no more,Bishop Hatto he made fast the door,And while for mercy on Christ they call He set fire to the barn and burnt them all.I' faith, ' tis an excellent bonfire, quoth he,And the country is greatly obliged to me,For ridding it in these times forlorn Of rats that only consume the corn.So then to his palace returned he,And he sat down to supper merrily,And he slept that night like an innocent man,But Bishop Hatto never slept again.In the morning, as he entered the hall,Where his picture hung against the wall,A sweat like death all over him came,For the rats had eaten it out of the frame.As he look'd there came a man from his farm,He had a countenance white with alarm.My Lord, I opened your granaries this morn And the rats had eaten all your corn.Another came running presently,And he was pale as pale could be,Fly, my Lord Bishop, fly, quoth he,Tenthousand rats are coming this way, -The Lord forgive you for yesterday!I'll go to my tower in the Rhine, replied he,"Tis the safest place in Germany,The walls are high and the shores are steep,And the tide is strong and the water deep.Bishop Hatto fearfully hastened away,And he crost the Rhine without delay,And reached his tower in the island and barr'd All the gates secure and hard.He laid him down and closed his eyes, -But soon a scream made him arise,He started, and saw two eyes of flame On his pillow, from whence the screaming came.He listen'd and look'd; ... it was only the Cat;But the Bishop he grew more fearful for that,For she sate screaming, mad with fear At the army of rats that were drawing near.For they have swum over the river so deep,And theyhave climb'dthe shores so steep ,And now by thousands up they crawl To the holes and windows in the wall.ROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 33Down on his knees the Bishop fell ,And faster and faster his beads did he tell,As louder and louder drawing near The saw of their teeth without he could hear.And in at thewindows and in at the door,And through thewalls by thousands they pour,From the right and the left, from behind and before,From within and without, from above and below,And all at once to the Bishop they go.They have whetted their teeth against the stones,And now they pick the Bishop's bones,They gnawed the flesh from every limb,And down from the ceiling and up thro' For they were sent to do judgment on the floor, him!If the tourist be anything of an epicure and wish to accomplish his journey through the East with luxury, Bingen and thevicinity is the place to lay in a stock of wine. The followingfirms can be recommended:Kreuznach:-Beckhard & Sons, Hock and Moselle, both stilland sparkling.Rüdesheim: -Dilthey, Sahl & Co., of the Darmstadt Hotel;Lade & Sons.Eltville:-Mathew Müller, Hock and Moselle, sparkling.This firm has always 800,000 to 900,000 bottles in stock, andgained the prize medal at the great Exhibition, 1862.After leaving Bingen, half an hour's ride by rail brings uspast Biberich (on the left bank) , with the summer palace of theex- Prince of Nassau toMayence (German, Mainz) .HOTELS:-*Hotel d'Angleterre; landlord Mr. Specht, winegrower and merchant, B. B. 3 sh. , D. 2 sh.; Rheinischer Hof:B. B., 3 sh. , D. 2 sh.; *Mainzer Hof, B. B., 1s. 8d. , D. 1s. 8d.;

• Hotel de Hollande, B. B., 3 sh. , D. 2 sh.

CABS:-Per course, one or two persons 12 kr. , three or fourpersons, 18 kr.; by the hour, 18 kr. and 1 gul.BANKER:-G. L. Kayser.ENGLISH CHURCH in the Clara Strasse.Mayence is one of the most important strategic points on theRhine. As far back as 30 B.C. , Vipsanius Agrippa chose its sitefor a fortified camp; in 14 B.C., Augustus sent his stepson Drususas governor on the Rhine, who then founded the Castellum Magontiacum, the nucleus of the present city, which, since the PrusD34 GUIDE TO TURKEY.sian campaign, of 1866, has become one of the most importantPrussian fortresses. There are many remains of the Roman agewhich can be seen on application to the guard at the gates ofthe Citadel, on payment of 12 krs. each . According to monkishtradition, Constantine here saw the remarkable apparition inthe heavens, " X. R. regnat, X. R. vincit, X. R. imperat, " as hewas proceeding with his Treviranian legions to Rome, againstMaxentius. The *CATHEDRAL dates from 978, and has experienced remarkable reverses . In 1793 it was burnt down forthe sixth time; in 1801 used as a barn! Nov. 9, 1813, 6,000Frenchmen took up their quarters in it during the retreat, anddestroyed it anew; in 1814 it was used as a slaughter house forthe garrison during the siege. Since then it has been reconsecrated and kept to its original purpose. Fastrada, third wife ofCharlemagne, and Heinrich Frauenlob the Minnesänger (* Statueby Schwanthaler) , lie here buried. The tomb of Drusus ( orderrequisite) is in the citadel. The statue of GUTENBERG, inventorof printing, by Thorwaldsen, stands opposite the theatre. Thereis the finest collection of Roman antiquities in all Germany to beseen inthe old * ELECTORAL PALACE ( Kurfürstliches Schloss ); alsocontaining a remarkable astronomical clock, by Alexius Johann.One of the curiosities in the town is an enormous stone of1,367 lbs . weight, thrown by the explosion of gunpowder on the9th November, 1857, into the premises of Mr. B. J. Mayer,wine merchant to her Majesty Queen Victoria, whose celebratedwine cellars are open to all English visitors.

• Music in the public gardens every Wednesday at 2 p.m.

Mayence is celebrated for the excellence of its sausages. To a wise man, verbum sat!If the tourist has not taken a through ticket to Bâle, he willhave to take one in Mayence, via Darmstadt, Mannheim, Heidelberg, and Freiburg.FARES:--(To Bâle) 1st class, 14 gul. 33 krs.; 2nd class,9 gul. 45 krs. Time 9 hours. Seats: On the right.After passing Bischofsheim, Nauheim, Grossgerau, 45 minutesride brings us toROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 35Darmstadt.HOTELS:-*Hotel zur Traube, very good and moderate.

• Darmstädter Hof.

Darmstadt is a peculiarly dull town, with broad, often grassgrown streets, and offers no particular attraction, except itsopera, which is considered the best on the Continent after theParis opera. The Royal Castle contains a valuable library,(many MSS. ) and collections of paintings by Raphael, Van Dyck,Rembrandt. The Museum also contains a very fine gallery.The monument on the Louisenplatz of Grand Duke Louis I.is by Schwanthaler.After leaving Darmstadt, another 45 minutes brings us toWeinheim, with the ruins of the Windeck, and 40 minutes moretoMannheim,HOTELS: * Pfälzer Hof; Hotel de l'Europe; * Hotel Friedrichsburg, moderate.Mannheim is a very clean town and well built on the American block system, which makes it of monotonous appearance.Before the theatre, which is very good, two statues; one ofSchiller, another of Dahlmann.Half an hour's ride brings the tourist toHeidelberg,which he should on no account miss seeing, as the ruins of theHeidelberger Castle may well rank with their predecessors ofantiquity in the East, and besides that, embody the Germanmind, which as it were they have petrified .HOTELS:-* Hotel de Hollande, on the Neckar, moderate;Hotel Victoria; * Hotel de l'Europe; **Hotel de Russie: B. B.3 sh. , D. 2 sh.CARRIAGES:-One horse, 1 gul . an hour; two horses, 1 gul.12 krs.DONKEYS:-To the castle, 24 krs.; to the Wolfsbrunnen1 gul.; the Königsstuhl, 1 gul. 45 krs . (3 shillings) .Heidelberg is situated on the Neckar, and its University isD 236 GUIDE TO TURKEY.one ofthe oldest and best, especially for practical sciences, inall Germany, and numbers some 500 students.The CASTLE must be the first object of the tourist's attention,for next to the Alhambra there are no ruins in all Europe ofequal dimensions and beauty. It is impossible here to enterinto detail, but the following description from Hyperion willgive a better idea of it than any words of our own.“High and hoar on the forehead of the Jettenbühl stands the castle of Heidelberg. Behind it arise the oak-crested hillsofthe Geisberg and Kaiserstuhl; and in front from the broadterrace of masonry you could almost throw a stone upon theroofs of the town, so close do they lie beneath. Above this terrace rises the broad front of the chapel of St. Udalrich. On theleft stands the slender octagon tower of the Horologe, and onthe right a huge round tower, battered and shattered by themace of war, shores up with its broad shoulders the beautifulpalace and garden terrace of Elizabeth, wife of the PfalzgrafFrederick. In the rear are older palaces and towers forming avast irregular quadrangle; Rudolph's ancient castle with itsGothic gloriette and fantastic gables; the Giant's tower guarding the drawbridge over the moat; the Rent Tower with theLindentrees growing on its summit; and the magnificent Rittersaal of Otto Henry, Count Palatine of the Rhine and grandSeneschal of the Holy Roman Empire. From the gardens behind the castle you pass under the archway ofthe Giant's Towerinto the great courtyard. The diverse architecture of differentages strikes the eye; and curious sculptures . In niches onthe wall of St. Udalrich stand rows of knights in armour, allbroken and dismembered; and on the front of Otto's Rittersaalthe heroes of Jewish history and classic fable. You enter theopen and desolate chambers of the ruin, and on every side aremedallions and family arms; the Globe of the Empire and theGolden Fleece, or the Eagle of the Cæsars, resting on the escutcheons of Bavaria and the Palatinate. Over the windows anddoorways, and chimney- pieces are sculptures and mouldings ofexcellent workmanship; and the eyes are bewildered by theprofusion of caryatides and arabesques, and rosettes and fan-ROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 37like flutings, and garlands of fruits and flowers, and acorns andbullocks' heads, with draperies of foliage and muzzles of lionsholding rings in their teeth. The cunning hand of art was busyfor six centuries, in raising and adorning these walls; the mailedhands of time and war have overthrown them in less than two.Next to the Alhambra of Granada the Castle of Heidelberg isthe most magnificent ruin of the Middle ages."TheUNIVERSITYwas founded in the 14th century, bythe CountPalatine Ruprecht.In a cellar under the castle , the celebrated " Tun of Heidelberg," the largest wine- barrel in the world, may be seen, and acurious little box on the wall, which suddenly flies open in theface of inquisitive Paul Prys, on a string being pulled .Leaving Heidelberg, two-and-a- half hours' ride brings us pastBruchsal and Durlach toHOTELS:-Karlsruhe,

-* Erbprinz; Goldener Adler; * Grüner Hof, close

to the railway.Karlsruhe is the capital of Baden, and is built like a fan.Valuable library with several important palimpsests . Theacademy contains a good collection of paintings . Magnificenttheatre.Between Karlsruhe and Bâle or Basel there is no place ofimportance exceptFreiburg.HOTELS:-Hotel Engel; * Hotel Foehrenbach.The town is situated on the Dreisam, at the entrance of the

• Höllenthal. The CATHEDRAL dates from 1122, and is a most

beautiful building. The tower, 385 feet high, composed of opennet-work, producing a most lovely effect, especially when thesun shines through. Freiburg is the place most convenient tomake excursions from into the Black Forest, and the ascent oftheBelchen 4,526 feet high, for which see Bradshaw's ContinentalGuide. One hour-and-a-half's ride from Freiberg takes us to38 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Basel.HOTELS - Drei Könige (on the Rhine) , B. B. 3 fr. , D. 4 fr.;Storch, B. B. 3 fr. , D. 4 fr.; * Wilder Mann, B. B. 3 fr. ,D. 3 fr.; * Hotel Schweizerhof close to the railway. Price moderate.In Klein Basel on the right bank of the Rhine: * Bär, B. B.2 fr. , D. 2 fr. * Baseler Hof, close to the Baden Railway.Basel is the capital of the Canton of the same name, and isconnected with Klein Basel by a stone bridge over the Rhine.There is not much to see. The CATHEDRAL, red sandstone, wasbuilt by Emperor Henry the Second, 1010, and was partiallydestroyed by an earthquake in 1356. Fine view from the terrace behind it, rising straight up from the Rhine to a height of75 feet. The museum contains some fine paintings.The confectioners of Basel manufacture a peculiar kind ofgingerbread, " Baseler Leckerli," which we recommend to allsweet teeth.From Basel to Milan, via the Lago Maggiore and Arona.RAILWAY:-From Basel to Lucerne, 1st class, 9 fr. 85 ct. , 2ndclass , 6 fr. 95 ct.After passing the tunnel of Hauenstein, 8,340 feet long, inwhich sixty-three persons were stifled in 1857, the railwaycrosses the Aar at Olten, where the traveller will most likelyhave to change carriages and continue his journey past Aarburgto Zofingen, where he will have the first view of the BerneseAlps. Then past Wauwyl, the Mauensee to the right, pastSursee and Nottwyl, along the lake of Sempach to the town ofSEMPACH, celebrated by the battle in 1386, in which Arnold ofWinkelried caused the overthrow of the Austrians by his heroicself sacrifice. The line then passes through pine forests, andMount Pilatus, the Rigi, and the Titlis, soon rise to view. Thencrossing the Emme it borders the Reuss as far as Lucerne.Steamboats are always in readiness to ferry the traveller to thetown opposite.Lucerne.HOTELS: * Hotel des Balances, B. B. 21 fr. , D. 3 fr.;ROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 39

• Schweizer Hof, B. B. 3 fr. , D. 3 fr.; * Hotel de Rigi, B. B

3 fr. , D. 3 fr. and 4 fr.There is nothing to be seen in Lucerne except the colossal" Lion of Lucerne " and the cathedral of St. Leger, containinga celebrated organ. The town itself, however, with its curiousbridges over the Reuss, ornamented with legendary paintings ,are well worth a walk. It is the lake ofLucerne which offers thegreat attraction to the tourist.The steamers take up passengers from the chief Hotels, andon leaving the town the traveller sees the Rigi to the left, MountPilatus to the right, and the Bürgenstock straight before him .To the left of Mount Pilatus , the Bernese Alps.Wäggis is the landing place for those who intend ascendingthe Rigi. After Wäggis we pass Beckenried and Gersau toBRUNNEN on the mouth of the Muotta, where the steamer goesstraight southwards through what is called the Uerner See. Themountains encroach more and more upon the lake, rising upalmost perpendicularly from the water's edge. Until latterlythere was only one dangerous path from Brunnen to Fluelen.Now there is a magnificent carriage road. Shortly after leavingBrunnen, a rock over 80 feet high rises out of the waters. It iscalled the Mythenstein, and bears the inscription: " Dem Sänger Tells, Friedrich Schiller, Die Ur Cantone, 1859." A littlefurther on we see a verdant meadow, the Rütli, where the thirtythree patriots united against the enemy in 1307. Then theTells Platte, with a little chapel on which Tell saved himselfduring the storm . The view becomes more sublime everyminute; the Gitschen (7568) to the right, the Windgelle (9818)to the left, and the Bristenstock (9464) in front, in the background to the right ofFluelen.HOTELS: -* Adler: B. B. 3 fr. , D. 3; * Kreuz, cheaper.The ascent of the St. Gotthard commences at Fluelen, wherehorses and carriages can be had at the following prices:-

-

From Fluelen to Hospenthal, two horses, 30 fr.; to Airolo,60 fr.; to Faido, 75 fr.; to Bellinzona, 100 fr.; to Magadino,115 fr.; to Lugano, 125 fr .; to Como, 150 fr.40 GUIDE TO TURKEY.DILIGENCES.Andermatt 7 10• 70 Fluelen to LocarnLuganoMagadinofr. ct.Fluelen to Hospenthal 529""Airolo . 13 10 999999Bellinzona 23 20 99fr. ct.25 20• 27 40• 25 20Camerlata • 31 37No better preparation for a tour through the East could bedesired than a pedestrian excursion across the Alps . All heavyluggage can be sent on ahead, merely reserving as much forpersonal use as will go into a knapsack, or side-pocket. Onecan scarcely credit what an amount of pleasure can be obtainedat a most trifling cost in this manner. We mention the hotels,or rather inns, and their prices for this express purpose.Leaving Fluelen, 45 minutes walk brings us to ALTDORF ( Hotel

• Adler: B. B. 2 fr.; Bär; * Post, same prices) , where a colossal

statue ofTell, in plaster, marks the site of Tell's exploit in shooting the apple off his son's head. The road crosses the Schächenbach, and then approaches the Reuss near the Klus, where thetraveller will find excellent and cheap accommodation at the

• Weisses Kreuz, B. B. 2 fr. If he have arrived betimes in

Fluelen, he would do well to walk on and sleep there, continuinghis journey through the village of Silenen, with a magnificentview of the Bristenstock (9464) to AMSTAG, 3 hours' walk fromFluelen. Hotels; * Stern, B. B. 2 fr. , D. 2 fr .; Kreuz, B. B.,2 fr. , D. 2 fr.At Amstäg, the road proper over the St. Gotthard commences,and just before Intschi, the first waterfall, the Leutschächerbach; and the second, just past Intschi, the Intschialpbach murmur their welcome to the tourist. The next bridge over theReuss is called the Pfaffensprung (Friar's Leap) , and is the seatof the following legend: —THE FRIAR'S LEAP.'Neath the pine-trees in the wood,By the torrent's boiling flood,Foaming madly thro' the precipice below,Stood a monk in cloak and hood,With the crimson, surging blood,Tinging all his pious visage with aglow.For a maiden soft and fair,Dallied at the friar's side,All confiding in the honour of the church;Put the devil everywhere,' s ever ready to misguide- And the saints all left the pater in the lurch.ROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 41Stolen fruit is ever sweet;Nor are cherry lips amiss,Even to a worthy friar on the sly;And aglow with carnal heat,Straight he stole a carnal kiss,But whate'er the Church of Rome Once has taken for its prey.Such, in spite of all endeavour, it will keep;And altho' the torrents foam,With a carnal fire gleaming in his eye. Roaring down the rocky way,Now, by no means be too sure,Nor conclude the love was queer,That was swelling, surging on thro'every vein.For it may have been most pure,Such as Christians all revere,Still the saints will help the friar o'er the deep.And the maiden on his arm,With a jump and with a leap,Straight he sprang across the precipice below;And without a hurt orharm ,And without the imputation of a stain. Placed the yawning chasm deep,But, alas! for Christian love,Or platonic which you will;Safe between his holy corpus and the foe."Gratias coelo ago," said Bothare apt to be mistaken bythe herd, In delight the holy monk;And upon a rock above,Bythe sloping of the hill,"Ex profundis crescit turris salvator!"And the peasant shook his head,Stood a boor who straight the very In a fit of wonder sunk,worst inferred."Wait a bit," he cried, and swung Round his head a slip of oak;Of dimensions truly awful to behold,"For I'll scotch your pious tongue,And you'll find its not a joke,To be caught a poaching in your neighbour's fold."For the holy friar's leap perplexed him sore.And, miraculous or not,Well the Friar's Leap is known;From St. Gotthard to Fluelen on the lake;To this very day the spot,As proof ocular is shown,Of the deed a friar dared to undertake.Three hours' walk from Amstäg, the road crosses the Mayenbach just before Wasen (Hotel Ochs, B. B. 2 fr. ) , after which,before the bridge over the Reuss at Wattingen, the waterfallRohralpbach. At the next place, Göschenen, a fine view up thevalley of the Dammafirn. After Göschenen, the road windsabout in numerous zig- zags, and over eight bridges in succession,through the wild romantic chasm of the Schöllenen, in one partthrough a gallery 260 feet long, erected against the avalanches,till it reaches the *TEUFELSBRÜCKE (Devil's Bridge) , the culminating point of stupendous grandeur on the whole route. The oldbridge still remains, but is now never used; in 1799, it was thescene of several sanguinary combats between the French,Austrians, and Russians. A few minutes' walk past the bridgethe road enters the Urner Loch, and leaving the desolate valleyand roaring Reuss behind, enters upon what was formerly alake, before the Reuss had forced its way through in times past,but now presenting a scene of quiet pastoral beauty, strangelycontrasting with the wild landscapes before and behind. It is42 GUIDE TO TURKEY.called the Urseren Thal, and at the head of it, half an hour's walkfrom the Devil's Bridge, lies ANDERMATT (Italian, Orsera) .Hotel St. Gotthard, B. B. 2½ fr . , D. 3 fr. At HoSPENTHAL, a littlefurther on (Hotel Meyerhof, B. B. 31 fr. , D. 3fr. , Löwe, cheaper),the road ascends in zig- zag, and soon crosses the Reuss for thelast time, then winding between several gloomy little lakes,reaches the height of the pass, (6507) , where the travellercan put up at the Albergo di San Gottardo or at theHospice. To the east rise the peaks of the Prossa (9241feet) and the Tritthorn ( 8764 feet); to the west the Lucendro(9109 feet) and the Fibia (8442 feet) . Fifteen minutes' walkbelow the Hospice the road crosses the Ticino, and enters theVal Tremola below the Cantoniera San Antonio, descendingthe mountain slope in zig-zags, which the pedestrian can cutoff, and reach AIROLO in 1 hour, and walking through the pass,Stretto di Stalvedro, arrives at the splendid waterfall of Calcaccia.Having passed an inn, Dazio Grande, the roar of the fallsof the Ticino breaks upon the ear, and in less than 24 hoursFaido, capital ofthe Leventina, appears. (*Hotel Angel, B. B. 3 fr. ,D. 3 fr. ). By this time the landscape has assumed quite an Italiancharacter. Chesnuts, vines, and mulberry trees cover thevalleys and the mountain- slopes , and the tinkling of bells frominnumerable chapels perched up on the heights or imbedded ingroves below denote the corresponding change in religion.Waterfalls descend the rocks on all sides, and the road crosses abridge over the Ticino, where it forms another cascade, shortlybefore Giornico.After passing Bodio, the valley gradually becomes wider andmore richly planted with chesnut, walnut, fig, and mulberry,and, in about 4 hours' walk from Bodio, is shut up by theancient fortified hills ofBellinzona.HOTELS: *Hotel de Ville; Hotel Angelo, which with itscastellated walls and ancient fortresses presents one of themost romantic pictures in Switzerland. The three castlesROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 43formerly belonged to as many different cantons. The CastelloGrande, to the west, to Uri; the centre one, Castello di Mezzo,to Schwyz; the eastern and highest one, il Castello Corbario,to Unterwalden. There is nothing of note to be seen in thetown, which is of the true Italian stamp, with its arcades andqui si vende vino " (wine sold here) marked up all about.66Leaving Bellinzona the road branches off to the left, leadingto Magadino and Lugano and, on the right, over the bridgeacross the Ticino, to LOCARNO. The traveller can take thesteamer either from Magadino or Locarno, as he pleases . Weadvise proceeding at once to Locarno. Magadino is swampyand unhealthy, and swarming with gnats. Steamers leaveMagadino and Locarno three times daily.Fares:-Magadino to Arona 1 cl. 4fr. 15ct. , 2 cl. 2fr. 60ct.Locarno ditto ditto dittoThe Lago Maggiore,the Lacus Verbanut of the Romans, is fed by the Ticino fromthe St. Gotthard, the Tosa from the Simplon, and the Tresafrom the lake of Lugano, and presents a curious phenomenonin its colour, which in the north is green, and in the south blue.On leaving Locarno the steamer passes Ascona and Ronco toBrissago, which will be recognised by its cypress avenue leadingto the church. The vegetation is most luxurious; vines , pomegranates, cactuses, olives, and figs vying with each other inrichest profusion . Then, passing Loro and San Agata, the boatstops at CANNOBBIO, afterwards steering eastwards to Luino.On the opposite side, a little below Cannobbio, two half- ruinedforts rise from a rock in the lake, the Castelli di Cannero,formerly guarding the town of Cannero. Crossing again to thewest, the steamer lays to at INTRA, and, rounding the Cape of SanRemigio at PALLANZA, and then at ISOLA BELLA, the chief of theBORROMEAN ISLANDS . At the head of the bay into which the Tosaflows, lies the village of Feriolo, of which a third, with a greatportion of the high road, suddenly sank into the lake on March5th, 1867. The author of these lines had passed through the44 GUIDE TO TURKEY.place at 4.30 on the fatal day. At 5 p.m. , half-an-hour later, asthe clocks were chiming the hour, the catastrophe took place.TheBorromeanIslands form the great conventional attraction ofthe Lago Maggiore; they consist of ISOLA MADRE, ISOLA PESCATORI, ISOLA BELLA, andwere formerlynothingbut barren rocks, tillCount Vitalio Borromeo ( 1690) built a palace on Isola Bella, andcaused the naked rock to be covered with fertile earth, andplanted with orange trees, lemons, laurels, magnolias, cypresses,etc. There is a collection of paintings in the palace which, withits grounds, is the lion of the place. Isola Madre is of similarcharacter, but more natural, and not so much like a "TwelfthCake." In fact, the " setting "of these gems, the mighty mountains around, the graceful shore of the pellucid lake, and theglorious sky above, will better please the lover of true beautythan all the gimcracks of art displayed in the adornment of theseislands . In no case is the proverb, " Beauty when unadorned, "etc., applied with greater force than here.The next station is STRESA (* Hotel des Iles Borromées) , thenBelgirate and Lesa, past Meino, toArona.HOTELS -Posta: B. B., 43 fr.; * Albergo Reale: B. B. , 3½ fr.The great lion of Arona is the colossal *statue of SAN CARLO,Archbishop of Milan, Count Borromeo (died 1584) . Thepedestal is 40 feet high; the statue 66 feet. It is cast in bronze,and the robes are of beaten copper. There is room for threepersons in the head, but the ascent in the interior is scarcelyadvisable, unless some adventuresome spirit wish to discover howmany degrees of heat he can sustain on a hot summer's day. Inthe Church close by, there are some relics of the Saint who wasborn here in 1538; and in the Church of Santa Maria there isan altar-piece (Holy Family) by Gaudenzio Vinci, whose worksare seldom met with.From Arona to Milan.RAILWAY.-1st class , 10 fr.; 2nd class, 7 fr. 20 c.The line passes through flat, uninteresting country to NOVARA,where, in the Palace Bellini, Charles Albert abdicated, March 23,ROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 451849, and where the philosopher Petrus Lombardus was born,1120. There is generally a change of carriages at Novara. Thecountry still remains flat. Great quantities of rice are grown,the fields for which have to remain two months under water.Trecate is the first station; shortly after which the line crossesthe Ticino, over a magnificent bridge of eleven arches, which theAustrians endeavoured to blow up before the battle of MAGENTA,which is the next station . It was done so badly, however, that itdid not deter the French from crossing and winning the battle,4th June, 1859, in consequence of which Austria lost the wholeof Lombardy. Many of the graves of the fallen can be seen ina field opposite the station. Through flat country and rice fieldsagain, past Villanuova and Rhó toMilan.HOTELS * Hotel de la Ville-opposite St. Carlo-excellent,but dear; **Hotel Great Britain: B. B. 3 fr. , D. 4 fr.; muchvisited by English; * Hotel Cavour, moderate; * Grand HotelRoyal: B. B. 4½ fr. , D., 4 fr.; * Hotel Marino: B. B. 3½ fr. ,D. 4fr.CABS -Seventy-five cents a course; parcels 25 cents.POST OFFICE: -Near the cathedral.THEATRES:-Theatra della Scala; St. Radegonda; Carcano.BOOKSELLERS: -Fr. Artaria and Anton Valadi.ENGLISH CHURCH:-In the church of Viccolo San Giovannidella Conca.ENGLISH BANKERS:-Banca Anglo-Italiana; Ulrich; Brot.DOCTORS -S. W. Walker, 26, Via della Passarella, CorsoVittorio Emanuele.If the traveller see nothing else, he must by all means visitthe *CATHEDRAL and the Church of * ST. MARIA DELLA GRAZIE,containing Leonardo da Vinci's celebrated painting of the *LASTSUPPER. It is painted in oil on one of the walls in the refectory. The altar- piece is by Carravaggio. The church contains,besides, three pictures by Luini.The cathedral is one of the finest in the world; the Milanesecall it the eighth wonder. After St. Peter's in Rome, and the46 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Cathedral in Seville, it is the largest in Europe. The tower is339 feet high, and the whole church is ornamented on the outside with 4500 marble statues. It was commenced in 1386by Heinrich von Gmünd. The ground is formed of mosaic; thevault above painted so deceptively as to appear ofopen network.It contains the magnificently bejewelled subterranean CappellaSan Carlo, open from five to ten, free. Afterwards, on paymentof5 francs.Astatue of St. Bartholomew by Marco Agrate is worth seeing,representing the saint after he had been flayed, carrying his skin over his shoulders . It bears the boastful inscription:-" Nonme Praxiteles sed Marcus fecit Agrates. "The church of SAN AMBROSIO, founded by St. Ambrosius, inthe fourth century, on the ruins of a temple of Bacchus, containsseveral ancient tombs ofthe early era, an * Ecce hom*o by Luini,and several remarkable mosaics in gold.San Lorenzo is the oldest church of Milan, having formerlybelonged to a Palace of Maximian.The Palace of Science or *BRERA, is open daily from 9 to 4, andcontains amongst many other objects of interest the followingespecially worthy of note: A statue by Canova in bronze, representing Napoleon the First.In the Picture Gallery:--Antechambers, 1 and 2, frescoes by Bramantino, Luini, etc.Room 1 , No. 6. St. Hieronymus, Titian. No. 47. Pieta, Tintoretto.Room 2, No. 61. Wedding at Cana, Paolo Veronese. No.71.St. Cornelius, Paolo Veronese.Room 3, No. 112.Room 6, No. 208.Room 7, No. 230.Abraham and HagarRoom 8, No. 237.Room 9, No. 136.Christ at the Pharisee's. P. Veronese.Madonna. Moretto.Nuptials of the Virgin. Raphael. 214.Guercino.Peter and Paul. Guido Reni.Portrait. Van Dyck.Room 10, No. 332. Landscape. Salvator Rosa.The *AMBROSIAN LIBRARY Contains 60,000 vols. and 15,000ROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 47MSS.; autograph letters of Tasso, Galileo, and San Carlo; a bustof Byron by Thorwaldsen; fresco by Luini; Homage of thethree Kings, Titian; Christ on the Cross, Guido Reni; Cartoonsby Raphael. Open daily from 10 till 3. Fee 2 fr . On Wednesdays from 10 till 2, gratis . If time permit, a visit should bepaid to the Cathedral of Monza, containing many remarkablehistorical curiosities.Milan to Venice, via Bergamo.FARES. -Milan to Venice, 1 cl. 35 fr. , 2 cl. 25 fr. 90 c. Time7 hrs.Seat yourself to the left in order to obtain a good view of theAlps and the Lago di Garda. The train passes the stations ofLimito and Cassano, where it crosses the Adda, flowing fromLake Como, and shortly afterwards arrives at Trèviglio, junctionfor Cremona, and BERGAMO, Hotel Italia: B. B. 3 fr. , the birthplace of Bernhardo Tasso, the father of Torquato, and of thecomposer Donizetti. The CATHEDRAL contains a number ofBergamasque paintings. The church of * SANTA MARIA, builtof black and white marble, with a fine porch of red and whitemarble.Leaving Bergamo, the line takes a south- easterly direction.past Seriate, where it crosses the Serio, to Gorlago, Grumello,and Palazzolo, where it crosses the Oglio, and then pastCoccaglio and Ospedaletto toBrescia.HOTELS -Albergo Reale: B. 24 fr. , D. 3 fr.; *Gambero:B. 1 fr. 75 ct. , D. 2 fr.Brescia, surnamed l'armata is one of the most flourishingcities of Lombardy, all the streets ringing with the sound ofhammer and anvil.The DUOMO Nuovo, founded 1604, is one of the finest buildings ofthe time, and contains some valuable paintings.The DUOMO VECCHIO dates from the 9th century. Altar- pieceby Moutte.The QUIRINIAN LIBRARY contains 40,000 volumes; correspon-48 GUIDE TO TURKEY.dence between Napoleon and Canova; a Madonna, painted byTitian, on Lapis Lazuli, etc.The *GALLERIA TOSI contains some excellent paintings, newand modern. Antechamber: Laocoon, byFerrari; bust of Galileo, by Monti. Room 3. *Christ crowned with thorns, Raphael.Room 4. Winter in Venice, Borsato. *Night, Vernet, *Monks,Granet. In the adjoining cabinet: Bust of Eleonora d'Este,by Canova. Room 8. Day and Night (relief) , Thorwaldsen.Room 9. Ganymede, Thorwaldsen.The church of San Clemente contains the tomb of AllessandroBenvicini, surnamed Moretto, and several of his works.ST. AFRA, built 1580, contains: *Woman in Adultery beforeChrist, Titian; Ascension, by Tintoretto, and Martyrdom ofS. Afra, P. Veronese.ST. NAZARO E CELSO . Contains: *five pictures by Titian and

• two by Moretto.

After leaving Brescia, the train brings us in an hour pastLonato, through a tunnel, cutting, and viaduct, to DESENZANO, onthe southwest of the LAGO DI GARDA. Magnificent view of thelake and the peninsula of Sermione, where Catullus composedhis poems, in a house of which there are still some ruins remaining. Between this station and Pozolengo, the battle of SOLFERINO took place, 24th June, 1859. Next station, PESCHIERA,and crossing the Mincio, we arrive within an hour from Desenzano atVerona,HOTELS:-*Hotel De La Tour De Londres, B. B. 4 fr. , D.3 fr.; *Due Torri, same prices.Bookseller -Münster.The town lies on the Adige, which is spanned by five bridges,and is one of the most important fortresses . The *CATHEDRALis one of the finest in Italy. **Altar-piece by Titian.ST. ANASTASIA, dating from the 14th century, of great architectural symmetry.SAN ZENONE, the finest church in Verona, containing severalcurious sculptures in relief, representing subjects from the OldROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 49and New Testaments; several ancient sarcophagi and marblestatues of Christ and the twelve Apostles.The house of Julia, Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, is shownin the street of San Sebastiano.But the most remarkable of the ancient remains in Veronais the *AMPHITHEATRE, built of Verona marble in the time ofDiocletian, 284 A.D. , large enough to contain 100,000 people.The PALAZZO DEL CONSIGLIO contains statues ofthe celebritiesof Verona, as, Pliny, Catullus, Cornelius Nepos, and Maffei.Verona is also the birthplace of the Scaligeri.Immediately after leaving the station, the railway crosses theAdige through the forts and redoubts, which make Verona oneof the strongest places in Italy, past San Michele, S. Martino,Villanuova, to San Bonifacio, south ofwhich, ARCOLE, celebratedfor the sanguinary battles of the 15, 16, and 17, November, 1796.Another hour brings us to VICENZA, birthplace of Palladio.The only station between Vicenza and Padua is Pojana.Padua.HOTELS -Croce d'Oro; * Stella d'Oro; Aquila d'Oro.Padua is one of the most ancient towns, and dates its originfrom the times ofthe Trojan King Antenor.The UNIVERSITY was founded in 1238. The town is mostcurious, and the cathedral, or BASILICA, founded in 1237, after aplan by Nicola Pisano, one of the most interesting. Especiallyworthy of attention in it are: the Cappella San Felice; Cappella del Santo; Monument of Antonio dei Raicelli.Baptistry is especially beautiful.TheThe PALAZZO DELLA RAGIONE Contains one of the largest saloonsin Europe, with carved ceiling, 256 feet long, 86 feet broad,75 feet high.The Café Pedrocchi, opposite the University, is of Europeanreputation. The Clock Tower deserves particular attention.Leaving Padua, the railway crosses the Brenta, and passesMarano to MESTRE, where the line branches off to Trieste andVenice. Just past Mestre at Fort Malghera, the longest bridgein the world commences, connecting Venice with terra-firma.E50 GUIDE TO TURKEY.It is 11,393 feet long, 28 feet wide, with 220 arches of 30 feetspan. In eight minutes the train reachesVenice.HOTELS:-* Grand Hotel Victoria; * Grand Hotel Royal:B. B. 6 fr. , D. 4 fr.; Luna: B. B. 4½ fr. , D. 3 fr.; * Stadt München: B. B. 4 fr.ENGLISH BANKERS: -Blumenthal and Co.READING ROOм, in the Piazza San Marco.CAFES:-Florian, Suttil, Café Français.GONDOLAS:-With one boatman, 85 centimes the first hour,and 42 for each successive hour. Double boatmen, double fare.BOOKSELLER:-Münster, of whom may be had an excellentguide to Venice, entitled " Semele, " by the British Chaplain, theRev. D. Merewether, who performs Divine Service , at his residence, in the Palazzo Contarini.It is impossible to give a detailed account of Venice withinthe scope of this present work, for that we refer the tourist toBRADSHAW'S HAND- BOOK TO NORTH AND SOUTH ITALY. Thefirst visit will be paid to the Piazza di San Marco, with thechurch of ** SAN MARCO, containing the relics of St. Mark,whichhad been stolen from Alexandria; the CAMPANILE, 316 feethigh; the ** DOGE'S PALACE, and the TORRE DEL Orologio, orClock Tower. Clock of admirable construction.The ACADEMIA contains a most valuable collection of paintings,by Titian, Veronese, Tintoretto, etc.CHURCHES:-* FRARI; *GESUITI; * SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE;SAN GIOVANNI E PAOLO, etc.The next excursions, derigueur, will be to-the CANALE GRANDEand the RIALTO, with the palaces of the Contarini Foscari, Balbi,Loredani, etc.; the DUCAL PALACE, with the PIOMBI and PONTEDEI SOSPIRI or " Bridge of Sighs. "The best way to see Venice, if pressed for time, will be to hirea gondol for the day. The gondolier will serve as a guide, andpoint out the chief objects of interest. His fare will be 5 to 6 fr.a day, (30 fr. a week) , and by this means the traveller will seemore of Venice in twelve hours than many another who hasspent a week in the city.ROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 51The following extracts from " Rogers' Italy," may serve toexcite an additional interest in the places to which they refer.There is a glorious city in the sea.VENICE.Want led to enterprise; and far or near,Theseais in the broad, the narrow streets Who met not the Venetian? --now amon Ebbing and flowing; and the salt sea- The Egean Isles, steering from port to weed Clings to the marble of her palaces.No track of men, nofootsteps to and fro,Lead to her gates. The path lies o'er the sea,Invisible; and from the land we went,As to a floating city-steering in,And gliding up her streets as in a dream,So smoothly, silently-by many a dome Mosque-like, and many a stately portico,The statues ranged along an azure sky;By many a pile in more than Eastern pride,Of old the residence of merchant-kings;The fronts of some, tho' Time had shat- tered them,Still glowingwith the richest hues of art,As tho' the wealth within them had run o'er.

And whence the talisman whereby she rose,Towering? 'Twas found there in thebar- ren sea.port,Landing and bartering; now, no stranger there,In Cairo, or without the Eastern gate,Ere yet the Cafila came listening to hear Its bells approaching from the Red Sea coast;Then on the Euxine, and that smaller sea OfAzoph, in close converse withthe Russ,And Tartar; on his lowly deck receiving Pearls from the Persian gulph, gems from Golcond Eyes brighter yet, that shed the light of love,From Georgia, from Circassia. Wander- ing round,Wheninthe rich bazaar, he saw, displayed,Treasures from climes unknown, he asked and learn'd,And travelling slowly upward, drew cre long From thewell- head, supplying all below;Making the Imperial city of the East,Herself, his tributary.ST. MARK'S PLACE.

In that temple porch (Thebrass is gone, theporphyry remains, )Did Barbarossa fling his mantle off,And, kneeling, on his neck receive the foot Of the proud Pontiff-thus at last con- soled For flight, disguise, and many an aguish shake Onhis stone pillow. Inthattemple-porch,Oldas he was, so near his hundredthyear,And blind, his eyes putout-did Dandolo Stand forth, displaying on his crown the cross .There did he stand, erect, invincible,Tho' wan his cheeks, and wet with many tears,For in his prayers he had been weeping much;And now the pilgrims and the people wept With admiration, saying in their hearts,"Surelythose aged limbs have need of rest!"-There did he stand, with his old ar- mour on,Ere, gonfalon in hand, that streamed aloft,As conscious of its glorious destiny,So soon to float o'er mosque and minaret,He sailed away, five hundred gallant ships,Their lofty sides hung with emblazoned shields,Following his track to fame. He went to die;But of his trophies four arrived ere long,Snatched from destruction-the four- steeds divine,That strike theground, resounding with their feet,And from their nostrils snort ethereal flame.

• * **

Enter the palace by the marble stairs Downwhichthegrizzly head of old Falièr Rolled from the block. Pass onward thro' the hall Where, among those drawn in their ducal robes,But one is wanting-where thrown off in heat,A brief inscription on the Doge's chair Led to another on the wall as brief. *

• Marino Faliero dalla bella moglie: altri la gode ed egli la mantiéne.

Locus Marini Faletri decapitati pro criminibus.E 252 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Venice to Trieste,FARES:-By Steamer, 16s. and 10s. By Rail, 1st class ,£1 1s. 6d.; 2nd class, 16s. Seat yourself to the right.On leaving Venice by rail the tourist returns to Mestre, andbranches off northwards, past Mogliano and Preganziolo, toTreviso. In the CATHEDRAL, paintings by Titian and ParisBordone. Still continuing due north, the line crossing the Piavearrives at Conegliano, birth-place of the painter Cima, († 1517) .Here the line turns eastwards, past Sacile and Pordenone, toCasaisa, where it crosses the Tagliamento, on a bridge 800 metresin length so broad is the river bed, which from the continualaccumulation of débris, has increased in height, till the neighbouring villages of Corno and Codroipo are nearly 30 feet belowits level. The next place, CAMPO FORMIO, is celebrated for thetreaty ratified here between Austria and France, dissolving theRepublic of Venice, 17th October, 1797.Next station is UDINE, a kind of imitation Venice, containingfac-similes of all the celebrated Venetian buildings, and a citadelon a height said to have been thrown up by Attila, in orderthat, like a second Nero, he might see the flames of burningAquileja in the distance. Then, past Buttrio, Maniano, andCormons, past Gorizia, where Charles X. of France lies buried,past Gradisca, Monfalcone, and along the Adriatic to Nabresina,where the line branches off to Vienna northwards, and southeast past Grignana, with the Castle of Miramar, toHOTELSTrieste.

• Hotel de la Ville: B. B. 2 fl. , D. 1 to 3fl.; Locanda Grande; * Hotel Victoria; * Albergo Danieli.

RESTAURANTS:-Monte Verde: Solderscher Garten; near theCitadel, music two and three times a week.CAFES: -Caffé Specchi; Caffé all' vecchio Thomaso; StellaPolari.CABS:-From the railway to the hotel, one horse, fl .; twohorses, 1 fl.BOOKSELLERS:-Münster; Schimpff; Coen, Agent for BRAD- SHAW.ROUTE I.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 53BANKERS:-Morpurgo and Parente; G. Moore & Co.; Grant& Co.THEATRES:-Teatro Grande; Teatro Maurrone; Teatro Filodrammatico.Trieste, the Tergeste of the Romans, is the most importantport of the Austrian Empire.The chief objects of attraction are: —The CATHEDRAL, Byzantine style, in which is the tomb of theart-critic Winkelmann, who was murdered in the LocandaGrande, 1768, by an Italian, and also of Don Carlos of Spain,(† 1855) of whom the author of these lines can narrate a veritable episode:-66"In December, 1849, we were travelling from Prague to Viennawhen the train was suddenly brought to a standstill, by theenormous masses of snow which had accumulated on the line,and we were forced to descend and wade through the snow- driftsto the village of Prerau. Fortunately for us, my father wasenabled to obtain a couple of rooms for us in the inn, where wemade ourselves comfortable, before the greater number of passengers had become convinced that it would be impossible to goon that night, December 24, 1849. The cold was intense, morethan 30º Reaumur below zero, in fact, several of the Hungarianprisoners being conveyed to Vienna were frozen to death. Wehad just sat down to supper, when an old , white-bearded gentletleman knocked at the door and asked permission to share ourroom, saying he was Don Carlos, of Spain. Of course, we gavethe room up to him as we had two. He seemed, as far as I canremember, very much pleased when he heard we were English,took me on his knee, patted my head, and filled my pocket withcakes, so that naturally to this day I entertain some of my juvenile veneration for the old white- headed monarch. We spentthree days at Presau, and Don Carlos was delighted with theChristmas dinner and plum-pudding we managed to provide forhim in good old English style. Vividly has this incident often.been recalled to my memory, when in years afterwards Ihave stood at his grave and read the inscription thereon, whichto judge from the three days I was with him, seemed remarkably54 GUIDE TO TURKEY.true, and in any case is affecting. It runs thus: ' D. O. M.Carolus V. Hispan. Rex, in prosperis modestus, in adversis constans, pietate autem insignis, obdormivit 1855, et hic tumu- latur.'Upon the terrace before the church lies a slab, beneath whichthe remains of Napoleon's notorious Minister of Police, JosephFouché, Duke of Otranto, are interred .The PIAZETTA DI RICARDO, nearly opposite the Church ofSanta Mari Maggiore, with a Roman triumphal arch, ARCO DIRICCARDI, possesses an additional interest for the English tourist,as the place where Richard Cœur de Lion was imprisoned onhis return from Palestine .A delightful excursion may be made to MIRAMAR, thepalace of the ill- fated Emperor Maximilian of Mexico, whichnow possesses an increased attraction, from the tragic historyand death of its founder. The park and gardens are most beautiful. It can be reached either by carriage (3 fl . , 6s . ) or byrailway to Grignana.The offices of the Austrian Lloyd are in the Tergesteum.ROUTE II.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 55ROUTE II .London to Constantinople or Alexandria, via Venice and Trieste ,via Bale and Como or Lecco.(For Route to Bâle, see Route I. page 24.)From Basel to Como or Lecco, via the Splugen.FARES.-Basel to Coire or Chur, railway, 1st class, 24 fr.45 ct.; 2nd class, 17 fr. 15 ct.; Chur to Colico, diligence, insixteen hours, 22 fr . 10 ct.Seat yourself on the left from Basel to Zürich, on the rightfrom Rapperswyl to Wesen, on the left again from Wesen toChur.At Olten, for which see page 38, the line branches off to Bern,Lucerne, and Zürich. There is generally a change of carriage,and then the tourist continues his journey, keeping along thebanks ofthe Aar to Aarau, of which, as the line passes underneath, little is to be seen. The celebrated novelist, Zschokke,lived here many years. To the left on the Wülpelsberg rise theruins of the Habsburg, the cradle of the Imperial family ofAustria. Next station, Brugg, where the line crosses the Reussat its confluence with the Aar, and runs along the Limmatamidst the most romantic scenery to BADEN, crowned by theruins of the Stein zu Baden, a celebrated watering- place, muchvisited even by the ancient Romans, by whom it was namedAqua. Burrowing through the earth under the Stein, past theAbbey ofWettingen, on the left, past Dietikon, where Massenaaccomplished his celebrated march over the Limmat, 24th September, 1799, and then, with the Alps in sight on the right, overthe river Sihl toZürich.HOTELS.-** Hotel Bauer: B. B. 3-4 fr. , D. 3-4 fr. (thishotel is on the lake) . * Hotel Baur (opposite the post- office) ,56 GUIDE TO TURKEY.B. B. 3 fr. , D. 3-4 fr. * Bellevue, same prices. * Sonne,very good and very cheap; homely.The situation of Zürich gives it its greatest charm, else thereis not much to attract the tourist. The view of the Alps fromthe bridge is very beautiful, and the traveller will be surprisedto see numbers of sea-gulls that come from the south and payperiodical visits to Zürich. They are fed by the people fromthe bridge, and are universal favourites.If pressed for time, the traveller will take the railway fromZürich direct to Chur; if not, the steamer to Rapperschwyl orSchmerikon.Zurich to Schmerikon by rail .Recrossing the Sihl the line curves round over the Limmat,through thetunnel of Oerlikon, past Wallisellen, along the shoresofthe Greifensee to Uster with its ancient tower, and then pastWetzikon and Ruti to RAPPERSCHWYL, where it again approachesthe lake and skirts the northern end to Schmerikon.Zurich to Schmerikon by steamer.Leaving the pier the boat steers for the western shore toBändlikon, then past Rüschlikon and Küssnacht and Oberriedento Horgen. Wädenswyl on the western shore, the chief town onthe lake, is the next station; then. Richterswyl, and the boatturning northwards lays to at Stäfa. Just before arriving atRapperschwyl the steamer passes the islands of Lützelau andUfnau, on the latter of which Ulrich von Hutten died 1523, andin five minutes arrives at SCHMERIKON.The train, after leaving Schmerikon, rolls along the Linth, connecting the Züricher- See with the Wallen- See, and in half anhour arrives at Wesen, where the traveller should by all meansendeavour to seat himself to the left, so as to obtain a full viewof the lake, along which the railway lies as far as Wallenstadt.The scenery is the wildest and most romantic imaginable; themountains rise straight up from the sea to a height of 5,000 to6,000 feet. The side on which the line is built is scarcelyless precipitous, and has necessitated the cutting ofno less thannine tunnels.ROUTE II.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 57At Wallenstädt the line turns southwards through the valleyof the Seez to Sargans, and thence along the Rhine to RAGATZ, avillage on the Tamina, which here joins the Rhine. Hotels inRagatz. -Hotel Ragatz: B. B. 3 fr. , D. 3 fr. Hotel Tamina.Whoever is not pressed for time should not omit visiting thecelebrated * BAD PFAFFERS and the * gorge of the TAMINA, onethe wildest, sublimest gorges in the world. It would not takemore than three and a half hours to visit from Ragatz. Thecelebrated philosopher, Schelling, died here, and his pupil, King Maximilian of Bavaria, has erected a monument to his memory.Crossing the Rhine, the railway follows the river, rushingalong over its bed of débris, past the ruins of Lichtenstein andHaldenstein toChur.HOTELS.-Weises Kreuz; Steinbock: B. B. 4 fr. , D. 3 fr.

• Sonne B. B. 2 fr. , D. 2 fr. Well recommended.

The situation of Chur on the Plessur is very picturesque; especially worthy of a visit is the * Episcopal court, surroundedwith walls, and enclosing the church of St. Lucius, of greatantiquity, part dating from the eighth century, and particularlyinteresting from its quaint architecture. The Episcopal Palaceis also very old, and the Capelle, one of the earliest specimens ofChristian architecture. Two Roman towers form the northerncorners of the court. They are called, respectively, Mars inoculis, Spina in oculis.Interesting excursions to the waterfall and baths of Lurli, thefountain of Aroschka, and the valley of the Albula.From Chur to Reichenau the country is flat, and in summerfearfully dusty. The road lies at a short distance from theRhine, on the other side of which rises the Calanda (8650 feet) ,with the village ofFelsberg at its foot, part ofwhichwas destroyedby a landslip in 1850, and then leads through the village ofEms, with the ruins of Hohenems, across a covered woodenbridge over the Rhine to REICHENAU, where the Duc de Chartres ,afterwards Louis Philippe, functioned as a French teacher from1793-1794. Passing through Reichenau the road begins to58 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ascend, the Rhine on the left, through magnificent mountainscenery, leads through the villages of Bonaduz and Rhäzuns,and continues to ascend gradually up the valley, which is calledthe Domleschg- Thal, passing in succession the ruins of thecastles of Juvalta, Ortenstein, Paspels, Canova, Realta, andRietberg toThusis.HOTELS.- Via Mala: B. B. 2 fr;

• . * Adler: B. B. 2 fr.

Thusis lies at the entrance of the Nolla into the valley of theRhine. On the bridge a fine view of the valley of the Nollawill be had with the glittering peak of the Piz Beverin in theback- ground. This valley, in fact, appears to be the only outlet,and it is a matter of wonder whence the Rhine comes, so completely does its valley seem blocked up by the enormous mountain masses around. But following the road we come to theentrance of the gorge, which is guarded, as it were, by the ruinsof the Hoch- Realt on a mighty column of rock, 600 ft . above theriver, and to the commencement of the celebrated ** VIA MALA.Following the road, on a kind of platform to the left, just at theentrance ofthe Via Mala, and called the Känzli, there is a magnificent view of Thusis, the Hoch- Realt, and the valley andmountains beyond. A few yards further on the Via Mala regularly begins with a tunnel 220 ft . long called das Verlorne Loch,always dripping with water, which in winter congealing to amass of fantastic icicles, makes the entrance seem like a portalto the realms of King Frost. After having traversed the tunnelthe road is literally nothing more than a shelf blasted in thesolid rock which overhangs it for more than a thousand feet,the Rhine roaring along its rocky bed hundreds of feet in theprecipice below. The view, looking back upon the solitarytower of Hoch- Realt, is very beautiful.The most magnificent scenery of the Via Mala is comprisedin the tract between the first bridge and the third, where theroad opens into the valley of Schams, and culminates at thesecond bridge, spanning the chasm where, 300 ft. below, and inone part completely hidden from view by the parapets of rockROUTE II.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 59overhanging it, the Rhine foams along , its roar reduced to a softmurmur by the distance from the earth above.In 1834, August 27, the Rhine rose in consequence of the rainsto within a few feet of the bridge. Past this bridge the road isagain cut in the side of the rock by which it is overhung , untilcrossing the Rhine for the third time, it enters the valley ofthe Schams to Zillis two hours' walk from Thusis. On theheights to the right, a little past the village of Donat, stand theruins of Castle Fardün, whose lord met with an untimely endin the fifteenth century at the hands of a certain peasant,Johann Chaldar. Chaldar had been imprisoned for some trivialoffence , and one day after his release the lord of Fardün enteredhis cottage and spat in the basin of porridge round which thefamily were sitting at dinner. Chaldar seized him by the neck,and plunged his head into the boiling dish, crying: " Malgiasez il pult cha ti has condüt!" (Eat the soup thyself whichthou hast spiced! ) This daring deed of Chaldar's, the WilliamTell of Schams, led to the independence of the whole district.Between Zillis and the next place, Andeer, the road crosses asmall bridge on which is the inscription, " Jamvia patet hostibuset amicis. Cavete Rhaeti! Simplicitas morum et unio servabuntavitam libertatem ."The best inn at Andeer is the Hotel Fravi, B. B., 2 fr.Before Andeer the road passes the remains of the castle ,Castellatch, and then, crossing the Aversa, winds in zig- zags pastthe ruins of the Bärenburg, through the gorge of the Roffla,where the Rhine forms a cascade called the Roffla-fall. Onehour's walk from Andeer brings the traveller toSplügen.HOTELS.-* Hotel Bodenhaus: B. B. 3 fr . , D. 3 fr.; situatedin the fork of the two passes, Splügen and Bernhardin, at aheight of 4622 ft . above the level of the sea.Leaving Splügen, the road branches off to the right for theBernhardin, to the left over the Rhine to Chiavenna and Colico.This is the route we follow. After passing the bridge the roadascends in sharp zig- zags, which can be cut off by the pedestrian,60 GUIDE TO TURKEY.and follows the course of the Oberhausen- Bach for about twomiles, through a gallery a little beyond Splügen, 270 ft . long,and past the Berghaus, where the zig- zags ( 16) have again commenced, to the Splügen- Pass proper, 1738 ft. above the sea.The road descends at once past the first Cantonièra, and fifteenminutes further on to what was formerly the Austrian Customhouse, the Dogana. The road descends sharply near Teggiate,passing through three galleries of the most solid masonry, thefirst 700 ft. , the second 648 ft. , and the third 1535 ft. long. Onissuing from the second gallery there is a fine view of Isoladown below, and just after passing through Pianazzo theroad crosses the Madesimo, close to the precipice over which itdescends in a beautiful fall, half spray, of 800 ft. high, througha short gallery to Campo Dolcino, a miserable place , of whichthe name is the best part, where the Italian Custom- house issituated. Along the valley of the Lira the road now windsbetween enormous masses of rock, which, from their peculiarlybrittle nature, have become detached from their parent mountainsand sown the valley with a perfect labyrinth of Deucalion's offspring, now overshadowed with the rich dense foliage of thewalnut and chesnut, out of which arises the tall campanile ofGallivaggio. Two miles further on bring us to San Giacomo, onthe left-hand side ofthe way, whence the valley, which is namedafter it, widens out, and the road, curving round to the left,crosses the Maira, on which is situated the town ofChiavenna.HOTELS. -Chiave d'Oro: B. B. 2 fr. , D. from 2 to 5 fr.; HotelConradi.-In Italy it is impossible to give a fixed price of hotelaccommodation, as there is no certain tariff.66Opposite the Post ( Hotel Conradi) stand the remains of acastle, perched up on the rock, formerly belonging to the Salisfamily, and the site of many sieges, and where, from the castlecourt, Ilparadiso," there is a lovely view of the town andvalley. The chief church, San Lorenzo, possesses nothingworthy of attraction for the general traveller, except two bonehouses, ornamented with skulls, and, for the antiquary, a curiousROUTE II.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 61Baptistery with ancient reliefs . Chiavenna is celebrated for itsbeer, the best in Italy, and its Veltliner, or wine ofValteline.Leaving Chiavenna, a two hours' walk, (one hour's drive) ,leads along the valley of the Maira, bordered on both sides bythe towering mountains which, when the atmosphere is favourable, present that deep blue colour so characteristic of Italianand all southern scenery, toRiva,on the northern extremity of the Lago di Mezzola or Lagodi Riva, which, like the Lake of Wallenstädt, is so entirelysurrounded with precipitous mountains rising up, perpendicularly almost, from the water's edge, that the road has had to beconstructed over dykes of solid masonry, led through severalgalleries and finally over a long bridge across the Adda. Justbefore the road branches off to the Stelvio pass, stand the ruinsof Fuentes, built by the Spaniards in 1603, when they were lordsof Milan. Within an hour's walk of Riva, Lake Como isreached, at Colico.HOTELS. -Albergo Garibaldi and Isola Bella, bad and indifferent respectively, where the steamboats leave for Como. Fares,Colico to Como, 1st class, 4 fr.; 2nd class, 2 fr. 10 cents.Lake Como, the Lacus Larius of the Romans, is the loveliestof the Italian lakes, and as a point d'appui for making excursions upon it we recommend either Varenna or Bellaggio . Atthe latter place the lake divides into two arms, the Lake ofComo proper, and the Lake of Lecco. If the traveller intendsproceeding to Venice direct without visiting Milan, he shouldmerely take the steamer to Varenna, and thence by diligence toLecco. (The abbreviations, R., L., signify to the Right, to theLeft.) Leaving Colico, Domaso and Gravedona lying opposite,we pass R. Dongo with its Dominican monastery; O'giascaopposite, and L. Dorio, Corenno, and Dervio on the mouth of theVarone, at the foot of Monte Legnone and Monte Legnoncino.Rezzonico, with the ruins of an old castle opposite. The steamer62 GUIDE TO TURKEY.touches here, and passes over R. to Bellano, on the Pioverno, atthe foot of Monte Grigua ( 6,305ft . ) Then past Gitana, L. againacross the lake toMenaggio.HOTEL.-Corona. This is the landing place for travellerswishing to cross over to Porlezza on Lake Lugano. VillaVigoni, half an hour's walk from Menaggio, contains some finestatues, * Nemesis, by Thorwaldsen,and a * Group, by Argenti.Opposite Menaggio liesVarenna.HOTELS.-*Albergo Reale: B. B. 4 fr. , D. 3} fr. Occupyingone ofthe loveliest sites on the lake, opposite the Villa Serbelloni and Bellaggio. Beautiful view from the ruins of Torre diVezio above. The lion of Varenna is the waterfall of the FiumeLatte (milk river) , unfortunately dry in summer, which fallsfrom a cave, 900 ft. high, in the rocks above.

• * *

Close on thy borders, Lake of Love,Where southern groves and gardens reach To Alpine snows and peaks above,Reflected from the shelving beach Varenna's ancient- castled steep Arises from the azure deep.' Mid spreading nut and olive grey,The trellised vines luxuriant growth Extending gracefully to both,The ancient monastery lay.-The terraced walks and orange grove,Fantastic shapes of cactus strange,Inclining o'er the winding cove,Along the glittering waters range.And through the vista's leafy green The white-walled chapel rose to view,The belfry gleaming up between The scented grove's much varied hue.The azure lake reflecting true The heav'nly dome's ethereal hue,Agem of Heaven fall'n to earth,To heav'nlythoughts gives mortal birth.Lake of Lecco.Following the Lecco arm of Lake Como, the road leads, overparapets of solid masonry and several tunnels, through Lierna,Sornico and Olcio, past Mandello, through Limonico and Ab- badia to-Lecco.HOTELS: Leone d'Oro; Angelo; both indifferent. Thesituation of Lecco is very beautiful; built on terraces rising upfrom the lake. Although at present a very prosaic town, teemingwith silk and steel manufactories, it is one of the scenes in Manzoni's celebrated " Promessi Sposi."From Lecco to Bergamo (see page 47) , one hour's ride byrailway.ROUTE II.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 63Lake of Como.Leaving Varenna, the steamer crosses toBellaggio.HOTELS * Grande Bretagne: B. B. 5 fr. , D. 5; HotelGrande; * Hotel Genazzi: B. B. 3 fr. , D. 4. Bellaggio is the pearlof all places on the lakes. At the extreme end of the cape liesthe Villa Serbelloni , more like an old farm than anything else,but with a magnificent park, whence a no less magnificent view.Near Genazzi's hotel, * Villa Melzi. * Works by Canova.At Cadenabbia, opposite, on the western shore, lies the celebratedVilla Carlotta, containing several remarkable objects of art.

• Palamedes, by Canova; * Triumph of Alexander, ordered by

Napoleon to decorate the Arch of Triumph, or Simplon Gate,at Milan, and executed by Thorwaldsen, * Amor and Psyche,

• Magdalena, Venus and Paris, all by Canova, Mars and Venus,

and a bust of Count Sommariva, the former owner of the villa,by Acquisti. Leaving Bellaggio, the steamer passes R. * VillaBalbianello, Campo, the island of Comacina, and Colonna, toArgegno, where the boat stops, and then passes over to L. Nesso,thence past Torrigia, where the lake curves round to the west,to Torno. A short way up the bay lies the Villa Pliniana, in asecluded gloomy spot, well suited to the character of its founder,Count Anguissola, one of the murderers of Duke Farnese. Itwas built in 1570, now belongs to the Belgiojosi, and derives itsname from Pliny's having mentioned a spring near by with akind of ebb and tide. (Plinias Epist. iv. 30; Hist. Nat. ii . 206.)Leaving Torno, the steamer passes innumerable villas belonging to queens, princes, singers , and dancers: as Villa Pasta,Villa Taglioni, Villa Napoli, and Villa d'Este, where QueenCaroline, wife ofGeorge IV, used to live, toComo.HOTELS:-* Italia: B. B. 4 fr. , D. 3 fr.; * Angelo: B. B. 3½ fr. ,D. 3fr. At both hotels arrangements can be made for longer stays.RAILWAY:-Fares to Milan (from Camerlata) , 1st class, 5 fr.45 c.; 2nd class, 2 fr. 85 c.64 GUIDE TO TURKEY.The CATHEDRAL is a very fine building, entirely of marble;was begun in 1396 and completed 1526. The front exhibitsmany reliefs and statues, some of which were executed by itslast architect, Thomaso Rodairo. It contains several paintingsby Luini, an * altar-piece by Marchesi, the tomb of *BishopBonifacio, monument of Benedetto Giovio, the historian of Como;

• Virgin and Child, in the sacristy, Luini. The organ, by Father

Hermann, a Jesuit ( 1650) , is of exquisite tone and modulation.The Broletto, with its " Scotch plaid " front of black, white,and red marble, is rather peculiar.The Church of San Fedele, of the early Lombard era, is architecturally remarkable.Comois the birth-place of a number of celebrated men: Pliny,the elder and the younger; Volta, discoverer of electricity,February 19, 1745; Paolo and Benedetto Giovio.Leaving Como for the railway station at Camerlata (omnibusfranc) , the tower of Boradello is seen crowning the latterplace, where, in 1277, Napoleone della Torre and his familywere imprisoned, cooped up in iron cages, and, after passingmany years in extreme misery, dashed out his brains against thebars. After his defeat Como became subject to the Viscontis.Leaving Camerlata, the line passes through a succession of olive,vineyards, and mulberry plantations, through a short tunnel to

Monza.HOTEL: Albergo di Castello.The CATHEDRAL, founded by Queen Theodolinde (596) , contains the celebrated Iron Crown of Lombardy, formed of one ofthe nails which were used in the crucifixion of our Lord; atleast, so saith tradition; the sarcophagus of Queen Theodolinde;the Treasury, with crown, comb, and fan of Queen Theodolinde; a golden hen with seven chickens, representing Lombardyand her seven provinces; two silver loaves, presented by Napoleon after his coronation, 1805, with the iron crown whichhas been used by thirty-four sovereigns before, and by only one-Ferdinand I. —after him.Half an hour's ride by rail brings us to Milan. See page 45.ROUTE III.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 65ROUTE III .London to Constantinople or Alexandria,viaHarwich, Rotterdam , Cologne, Mayence, Darmstadt,Aschaffenburg, Nürnberg, Vienna, Trieste.[For Routes to Darmstadt, see Route I. page 24.]This route will be followed by the holders of the GreatEastern Railway Company's through tickets to Vienna (see No.1, sec. B. page 3) . After leaving Darmstadt the train, passingDieburg, Babenhausen, and Stockstadt, arrives atAschaffenburg.HOTELS . -Post; Bayerischer Hof: B. B. 1 fl. , D. 48 kr.The town lies on the right bank of the Main, and is commanded by the Schloss, a square building, containing a finecollection of engravings. The CATHEDRAL, dating from 974, containsthe monumentof *Cardinal Albert, ofBrandenburg, executed1525, by the celebrated Nürnberg artist, Peter Vischer, and abronze Virgin, by his son, Hermann. Leaving Aschaffenburg,the train turns from the Main and skirts the northern portionof the Spessart, and gradually mounting crosses the Laufach atLaufach station, and passing through the Schwarzkopf in atunnel 1 miles long, arrives at Heigenbrücken, whence itdescends gradually to Lohr, and again rejoins the Main, whichit follows to Würzburg. At Gemünden, the tourist sees theruins of Schorenberg crowning the town, and in one hour's timearrives atF66 GUIDE TO TURKEY.HOTELS.-* KronprinzWürzburg.von Bayern; Adler; * WeisserSchwan: B. B. 1 fl. 12 kr. , D. 36.THE CITADEL, which is supposed to have been erected on thesite of one of Drusus' fifty castles (they all are, somehow orother!) , has, in recent times, acquired an additional interest by the Prussian bombardment in 1866. The gardens and terracesaround offer the most delightful views and promenades.The CATHEDRAL or Doм is founded on the spot where St.Kilian, an Irish missionary, is supposed to have sufferedmartyrdom in the 8th century. His sarcophagus and relics liein the Neue Münster, on the north side of the cathedral, and asevery Saint must be able to do something wonderful with hisrelics, St. Kilian uses his to cure the sore eyes of afflictedmortals.The University was formerly celebrated for its medicalscience, but the number of its students dwindles down year byyear. Founded 1582.Well worth a visit, if staying in the town, is the KöniglichesSchloss, formerly belonging to the Bishops of Würzburg. TheChapel (Louis XIV. ) , is especially fine.Leaving Würzburg, the train soon crosses the Main, and rollsthrough a rather uninteresting country, past Ochsenfurt,Marktheit, Uffenheim, Steinach, and Burgbernheim, in threehours, toAnsbach.HOTEL: Post; Krone: B. B. 48 kr. , D. 36 kr. , with nothing toattract the general tourist, except the fact of it being the deathplace of Casper Hauser, wholies buried in the Johannis- kirchhof.His grave bears the inscription: " Enigma sui temporis:ignota nativitas; occulta mors, 1833." In the Palace Gardensanother inscription marks the place of his mysterious murder:'Hic occultus occulto occisus est, 14 Dec. 1833."66One hour and a half's ride from Ansbach brings the train toROUTE III. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 67Nürnberg.HOTELS: Deutscher Hof; * Rothes Ross; Wittelsbacher Hof.Usual prices.CAFE: Café Noris.Nürnberg is celebrated as the birthplace of Albrecht Dürer,the painter; Hans Sachs, the cobbler and poet, as he himselfsaid:-"Hans Sachs SchuhMacher und Poet dazu!"Hans Sach shoeMaker and poet too!of Peter Vischer, Adam Krafft; of the sculptor SebaldusSchönhofer; of Melchior Pfinzing, author of "Theuerdank;"of Willibald Pirkheimer, and of Palm, who was murdered byNapoleon I. Finally, Nürnberg is famous for its toys, pencils,paints, and gingerbread! The objects of greatest attraction are:The SEBALDUSKIRCHE, dating from 1300-1483, and containsthe following objects:The Löffelholz chapel, at the west end, with a bronze font,which was used for the baptism of the Emperor Wenzel, which,with the collossal bronze Christ outside the west end, is one ofthe oldest works of art in metal.The ** Sebaldusgrab, or Shrine of St. Sebaldus, stands in themiddle of the choir, and is Peter Vischer's masterpiece. Heand his five sons were 13 years in constructing it. Opposite thealtar there is a statue of the artist himself, dressed in his mason'sapron, a chisel in his hand. Nürnberg does not seem to havebehaved very liberally towards its great men, for according tothe inscription Vischer himself has engraved upon the monument, “ he created it to the praise of God alone and the honourof St. Sebaldus, by the aid of pious persons paid by their voluntary contributions;" and Adam Krafft, of whom we shallspeak hereafter, died in the hospital at Schwabach.

• The Markgrafenfenster; Christ bearing the Cross, and the

Last Supper, sculptured by Adam Krafft; Christ on theCross, in wood, over the high altar, by Veit Stoss.F 268 GUIDE TO TURKEY.The LAURENTIUSKIRCHE (1274) contains, among many othermagnificent painted windows, the celebrated * Volkamer,window representing the pedigree of Christ.The ** Sacramentshaüslein, Adam Krafft's masterpiece, whichtook him and two apprentices five years to complete, andbrought him in the enormous sum of £60 10s. As alreadymentioned, he died of want.The Salutation of the Virgin, a remarkable wood- carving,hanging from the roof before the altar.The FRAUENKIRCHE, built 1355-1361 by the brothersRupprecht and Sebaldus Schönhofer, contains:-Monument ofthe Pergensdorfer family, by Adam Krafft; painting of St.Gregory, by Wohlgemuth.The EGIDIENKIRCHE ( 1718) contains an altarpiece by VanDyke.The SCHÖNE BRUNNEN, in the Market-place, by Schönhofer,the GANSEMANNCHEN, by Lawenwolf, behind the Frauenkirche,and the RATHHAUS, should also be visited.The GERMANISCHE MUSEUM contains a number of objects ofgreat interest, too numerous to be mentioned here , but for whicha catalogue can be had. No one should omit this Museum onany account, if only for Kaulbach's celebrated picture of theEMPEROR OTTO PENETRATING INTO THE VAULT OF CHARLEMAGNE, AT AACHEN.Such are a few of the attractions Nürnberg presents; thewhole town is as it were one great Museum of the Middle Ages.It was great both in art and science, in commerce and literature.Besides those we have already mentioned, Nürnburg broughtforth Peter Hele, the inventor of watches, Nürnberg eggs, asthey were called, 1500; Hans Lobsinger, inventor of the airgun, and Christopher Denner, who made the first clarionet(1606) .Leaving Nürnberg, the train runs in three and a half hours toRegensburg. The chief places on the way are Lauf, an ancienttown, walled and moated, with the ruins of the Rathenburg aboveit. Then, forty-five minutes' ride from Nürnberg, Hersbruck, at thefoot ofthe Michaelsberg, whence another forty-five minutes bringsROUTE III.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 69us to Sulzbach, where Jerome of Prague was imprisonedbefore his auto- da-fé at Constance. The castle, on the height,.belonged to the ancient Dukes of Sulzbach. Thence pastAmberg, Irrenlohe, Schwandorf, Heidhof, Regenstauf, WalhallaStrasse, in two and a quarter hours toRegensburg.HOTELS: Goldener Engel; Goldenes Kreuz: B. B. 1 gl. 12 kr. ,D. 48 kr.Regensburg, or Ratisbon, situated on the Danube, oppositethe mouth of the Regen, from which it takes its name, was formerly a Reichstadt, or seat of the Diet, which has been held heresixty-two times.The CATHEDRAL, dating from 1275, is still unfinished, it contains:Monuments, representing Christ and the Virgin, by PeterVischer, of Archbishop Dalberg, by Canova, of Count Herberstein, and of Bishops Seilen and Schwäbl, by Eberhard. Thewindow, under the south-west tower, is especially fine.The SCHOTTENKIRCHE possesses a peculiar interest to theEnglishman, from the fact of its having been founded by someBenedictines, whom Macbeth had banished from Scotland(1068).The Church of ST. EMMERAN is interesting, as containing thebeautifully worked silver shrines of St. Wolfgang and Bishop Emmeran.The ABBEY OF ST. EMMERAN has been converted into aPalace for the Prince of Thurn and Taxis, who, before thePrussian campaign of 1866, was a kind of regal Rowland Hill,enjoying the monopoly of the Post- office, in lieu of the territorieswhich he had lost on his mediasation. He has restored thecloisters, where, in the Gothic Chapel, stands the celebrated

• Statue of Christ, by Dannecker.

The Rathhaus contains a series of most forbidding dungeons,and a Chamber of Torture, with all the appliances for extortingconfessions from the unhappy victims of priesthood and super-70 GUIDE TO TURKEY.stition. They were used as late as 1784, and in their namesexhibit a grim humour, such as Mark Tapley might haveevinced, had he been victim or executioner. One, an invitingarm-chair, furnished with spikes, two inches long, on which thevictim was forced to sit, with any obligato number of weights inhis lap, is called the Maiden's Lap, or Jungfernschoos , andBeichtstuhl, Confessional; another, "Der gespickte Hase, andso on. This collection is the most complete that exists inEurope to show the excellence of the vaunted good old times.The greatest object of interest, however, to see which weearnestly recommend all travellers to the East, is theWalhalla.Fares from Regensburg to the Walhalla: Omnibuses, 3 daily,24 kr.; Carriages there and back, 3 gl.A copy of the Parthenon at Athens, and almost of the sameproportions; the Walhalla being 2 feet smaller in length andheight. It was erected by King Ludwig of Bavaria, as aGerman Temple of Fame, wherein to preserve the statues andbusts of all the celebrated men of Germany. The sculptures,both in and outside, have been executed by Schwanthaler, Rauch,Wagner, and other of the most celebrated artists in Germany.The architect of the whole was Klenze.We hold it peculiarly important for the eastward traveller tosee this building, as it will furnish him with an excellent idea ofwhat the Grecian Temples were in days gone by.Leaving Regensburg, the train arrives in an hour and a halfat Straubing, where in St. Peter's Church lie the remains ofa*gnes Bernauer, who, having been married to Duke Albert ofBavaria in secret, was condemned to death by his father, anddrowned in the Danube, 1436. Fraunhofer, the celebratedoptician and discoverer of the peculiar lines in the spectrum,which bear his name, was born in Straubing.At Straubing the line leaves the Danube, and, crossing theIsar at Plattling, with the castle of Moos on the left, arrives intwo hours atROUTE III.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 71HOTELS:-Hotel Adier.42 krs.Passau.

• Wilder Mann: B. B. 54 krs . , D.

Passau, situated at the confluence of the Danube, Inn, andIlz, is with justice called the Coblence of the Danube; the beautyof its position is even greater, and can best be surveyed from theCastle of Oberhaus, situated to the right of the bridge, andbetween the left bank of the Danube and the right bank of theIlz, which falls into the Danube just under its walls. TheChapel of Mariahilf, on the right bank of the Inn, just beforeits embouchure into the Danube, is a place of great resort forpilgrims; a statue of the Virgin with the Saviour in her lapstands upon a pedestal, whence a stream of cold pure waterissues from a spout. Fine view from here, too. Gold is foundin the Inn, and pearls in the Ilz.Leaving Passau, a pull of two hours and a half, through noparticular country at all, brings us toLinz.HOTELS:- Hotel Adler; Krebs; Goldener Löwe: B. B.1 gl. 50 kr.; D. à la carte.There is always half an hour's stoppage at Linz. The stationrestaurant is very good.The situation of the town on the Danube is very beautiful.The object of greatest interest in the place is Jägermeyers Garten,with a hill, from the top of which there is a most magnificentview of the town and the meandering Danube, and in the souththe snowy peaks of the Styrian and Salzburg Alps , amongstwhich glitters the Traunstein, rising above the Traunsee. Thefortifications are very peculiar, and would seem to have beenconstructed by a prophetic mind. Archduke Maximilian wasthe builder, and, proceeding upon the fact that when you haveonce knocked a breach in the wall surrounding a town the wholeof it is at the enemy's mercy, he constructed a chain of isolatedforts, connected by subterranean passages, and at a distance fromone to three miles from the town. There are 32 towers in all,72 GUIDE TO TURKEY.each 40 feet high and 140 feet in diameter, with foundations 21feet deep. In time of action the roof is taken off, the top forming a platform, which is armed with ten guns, the inside withfour howitzers; in fact, the whole arrangement, supposing oneheavy breach-loader to be substituted, is very similar to that ofthe Monitors. Even the guns move round upon a pivot. Thus,what the Archduke invented in 1820, in Austria, has been reinvented in America, by Ericsson, during the late war. A shorttime ago a fierce controversy was raging between the partizansof Captain Coles and Ericsson, as to who was the prior inventorof the revolving turret. Query, how much was either or bothindebted to the Archduke for his idea?From Linz the line runs parallel to, but at some distancefrom, the river. Past Enns, where the castle of Count AntonAlexander Auersperg, the poet-writing under the title ofAnastasius Grün-rises above the river Enns, which the linehere crosses; thence past several minor places to Melk, on theDanube, above which stands the celebrated monastery of theBenedictines; and in an hour's time reachesVienna.HOTELS:-*Hotel Munsch, B. B. 1½ gl. , D. à la carte; * Erzherzog Carl: B. B. 2½ gl. , D. 2 to 3 gl.; **Goldenes Lamm, in theLeopoldstadt: B. B. 1 gl. , D. à la carte. For travellers proceeding eastwards the Goldene Lamm is by far the most convenient,being close to the steamboats and the Kaiser Ferdinands Nordbahn for Hungary and the Danube; for those going viâ Trieste,Erzherzog Karl or Kaiserin Elisabeth.CABS from or to the station, 1 gl.GUIDES:-1 to 2 gl. per day.MONEY-CHANGERS:-(Cash) Riebarz, 8751, Stephansplatz.BANKERS:-Weickersheim & Co.BOOKSELLERS Gerold, 625, Stephansplatz; Braumüller,572, Graben; Tändler, Graben; Artaria, 1151, Kohlmarkt(Austrian Ordnance Maps) .OPTICIAN Plössl, 215, Feldgasse, in the Wieden.ROUTE III. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 73PIPES:-(Meerschaum) Kranch, 1144, Graben.THEATRES:-Opern Haus; Hofburg Theater; KärnthnerThor; Theater an der Wien; Carltheater, in der Leopoldstadt.CAFES:-Café Français, Stephansplatz (for ladies); Daums,in the Kohlmarkt.TURKISH EMBASSY:-Herrnstrasse.OBJECTS OF NOTE: -The Stephans Dom, one of the finestspecimens of Gothic architecture in Europe, dating from 1359.Especially fine is the Riesenthor. There is no object of artworthy of especial mention; but the whole interior, with its " dimreligious light," its painted windows, and rich sculptures, produces an impression which will not soon be forgotten. In theSouthern Aisle stands the monument of Frederick III. , withhis device, A. E. I. O. U.-Alles Erdreich ist Oestreich Unterthan; or, in Latin, Austriæ est Imperare Orbi Universo. Thesouth tower is 440 feet high. It was here that Count Stahrenberg went up to watch the Turkish camp during the last siege,in 1683; and the largest bell, weighing 380 cwt. , was made from180 pieces of cannon which were taken from them after theirdefeat. The view from the tower comprises the celebratedbattle-fields of Wagram, Lobau, Aspern, and Essling.The Augustiner Kirche contains Canova's most admired work,the monument of Christina of Saxe Teschen.The Capuziner Kirche contains the burial- vault of the Imperialfamily, the only exception to the remains of regality being thoseof Countess Fuchs, the governess of Maria Theresa.The Carlskirche, with two lofty columns sculptured with basreliefs. This church will somewhat prepare the traveller for theappearance of the Turkish mosques.The Volksgarten contains Canova's group of *Theseus and theCentaur, which, like Thorwaldsen's Triumph of Alexander inthe villa Carlotta, was ordered byNapoleon for the Simplon Gateat Milan.The Hofbibliothek, or Imperial Library, is one of the richestin Europe, and contains the finest collection of engravings inthe world. There is another collection of almost equal value inthe palace of Archduke Charles.74 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Schatzkammer, or Imperial Jewel Office, contains , amongstother things (such as a tooth of St. John the Baptist, a piece ofthe table-cloth used at the " Last Supper, " and an arm-bone ofSt. Ann) , the following authentic historical curiosities: the celebrated diamond worn by Charles the Bold at the battle ofGranson, an emerald weighing 2,980 carats, a crucifix by Cellini,and other valuables.The Antiken Cabinet contains the celebrated salt- cellar Cellinimade for King Francis I.; Leda and the Swan, by Cellini; and agreat collection of coins and medals.The Mineralien Cabinet contains excellent specimens of allthe minerals found in the empire, and a most complete collectionof aërolites from all parts of the globe; one of the largest, weighing 71 pounds, was seen to fall at Agram in 1751, and several ofa great shower that descended at Stannen, in 1808 .The Museum of Natural History, with the finest collection ofbirds in Europe.The Belvedere Palace.-Divided into the Lower and UpperBelvedere.The Lower Belvedere contains:-The **Ambras Collection of Armour.Rooms 1 to 3.-Armour of Emperors Maximilian, Philip II.ofSpain, of Scanderberg, of *Albertthe Bear; battle-axeof Montezuma, Emperor of Mexico; Armour of **Alexander Farnese.Room 4.-Portraits (authentic) of Mary, Queen of Scots;Queen Anne of England; Charles V. of Spain; Philip II. ofSpain; Philippina Welser, the wife of thefounder of the collection.Room 5.-Miscellaneous objects. Very curious, the stem ofatree, with the head and antlers of a stag overgrown by the wood;a nail 2 feet long, 42 lbs. weight, from the Pantheon.Room 6.-Jewelry.The UPPER BELVEDERE contains: -The GEMALDE- GALLERIE (Picture-Gallery), arranged according to schools. On the right:Room 1.-Venetian School. *Catherine Cornaro, Queen ofCyprus, P. Veronese; the *Geometers of the East, Tintoretto;Gaston de Foix, Palma.ROUTE III.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 75Room 2.-Venetian School. *Ecce hom*o, Titian ( sold byOliver Cromwell) . *Danaë, Titian.Room 3.-Roman School.

• Repose in Egypt, Raphael.
• Battle- scenes, Salvator Rosa;

Room 4.-Florentine School. *Presentation in the Temple,Fra Bartolomeo.Room 5.-Bolognese School. * Magdalena, Guido Reni;Prodigal Son, Guercino.Room 6.—Lombard School. Ganymede, Io and the Cloud,Correggio; *Christ and the Woman of Samaria, Carracci.Room 7.-Neapolitan School.On the left-hand side, FLEMISH AND DUTCH SCHOOLS.Room 1.-Many portraits by Rembrandt.Room 2.-Landscapes by Poussin, Ruysdael, Backhuysen,etc.Room 3. ― * Prince Rupert and Brother, Charles I. ofEngland, *An Officer , *Christ and St. Rosalia, all by VanDyck.Room 4.- Rubens' Gallery. **Ignatius Loyola casting outEvil Spirits; * St. Francis Xavier raising the dead and healingthe sick among the Indians.INTERMEDIATE ROOM:-DAS WEISSE CABINET-Fruit andflower pieces. DAS GRUNE CABINET- *Old man, *old woman,Denner; *Water- Doctor, Gerard Dow.Room 5.- Rubens'. * Portrait of his wife Helena.Room 6.-A collection, very choice, of Teniers.Room 7. -Spanish School. Portraits by Velasquez.Second Floor. On the right hand,Room 1.-Old German School. Magnificent works of AlbrechtDürer, especially the ** Holy Trinity, Portraits of JaneSeymour, Erasmus and Henry VIII.'s Doctor, by Holbein;Portrait of Luther, Lucas Cranach.Rooms 2 to 4.-Flemish School. Interesting only for the connoisseur.The rooms on the left are devoted to modern art, and areoften re-arranged and furnished with additions.Prince Liechtenstein's Gallery contains very fine specimens of76 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Raphael, Titian, Correggio, Rubens ( ** History of Decius-sixpaintings by Rubens), Vandyck, Perugino, etc.; Collection ofEngravings, also very fine.The Esterhazy Picture- Gallery contains the best collectionof Spanish painters out of Spain. Murillo, Prado, Zurbaran,Velasquez, Ghirlandajo, are all represented.There are many other private collections, which it would beimpossible to enumerate. Even in the above we have onlydirected attention to the most celebrated pictures which have aworld-wide reputation.The Kaiserliches Zeughaus, or Imperial Arsenal, also deservesa visit. It is close to the Upper Belvedere, and contains: theGreen Standard of Mahomet, captured 1683, by John Sobieski;an enormous chain of 8,000 links, used by the Turks to blockthe Danube at Buda; and a piece of cannon taken at Belgrade,1717, 24 feet long, projecting a ball of 126 lbs.Bürgerliches Zeughaus, Town Arsenal, contains, amongstother objects, Standard taken from the Turks, 1684, the headof the Vizier Kara Mustapha-Black Mustapha, and the cordwith which he was strangled after his defeat by Sobieski; alsohis shirt, inscribed with quotations from the Koran.Vienna to Trieste.FARES.-1 cl. , 28 gl. 26 kr.; 2 cl. , 21 gl. 20 kr. Time, 14hours, express.SEATS. -On the left.The railway to Trieste was formerly the most daring andremarkable line in Europe; but it has since been eclipsed bysome of its Italian and Swiss brethren. It was constructedfrom Gloggnitz southwards (at a cost of 15,000,000 fl . for oneportion of 5 miles) over the pass of the Semmering, 2,790 feetabove the sea.The line lies at an elevation, on leaving Vienna, affording afine view over the surrounding country; and at Brunn R.passes the ruins of Liechtenstein, destroyed by the Turks, andthen past the ruins of Rauhenstein and Rauheneck to Baden,ROUTE III.--LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 77the Roman Therma Pannonica, celebrated for its waters. Thechief fountain, the " Ursprung, " discharges over 15,000 gallonsdaily; the waters are sulphurous, impregnated with carbonicacid, temperature 95 deg. Fahrenheit.The next station is Vöslau, celebrated for its wine, the bestgrown in Austria. Afterwards, at Leobersdorf, the Schneeberg(6,566 feet) rises up to the right. In one hour's time fromVienna Neustadt is reached, with its ancient wall, and theBabenberger-Burg. In 1834 the whole of the town, exceptfourteen houses, was burnt to the ground—a fact that accountsfor its new appearance as compared to its walls.Leaving Neustadt, there is a fine view of the Schneebergfrom top to bottom, and in the distance Burg Sebenstein;afterwhich the train passes the Wartenstein, L., and stops atGloggnitz, with a Castle overlooking it . Here the SemmeringRailway proper commences to ascend, 1 ft. in 40 ft. , and,curving round the mountain slope, crosses the viaduct (900feet long) over the valley of the Reichenau, passes Payerbach,and through two tunnels to Eichberg. The train now windsround the Gotschakegel, past Klamm, with the ruined castle ,dating from the Eleventh Century, and formerly the key ofSteiermark above, and the village of Schottwien in the mountaingorge below, taking its name from an early colony of Scotchmonks, like the Schottenkirche in Regensburg; then througha tunnel and gallery on the Weinzettelwand, and across twobridges and three more tunnels to the highest point of the line,Semmering (2,790 feet) , where, to avoid further ascent, a tunnelhas been driven through the Semmering, 4,560 feet long, pastquiet valleys teeming with quaint houses and saw-mills , toMürzzuschlag, three and a half hours' ride from Vienna (express);thence along the valley of the Mürz, past Krieglach andKindberg, with their castles and the Landskron, to Bruck, onthe confluence of the Mürz and Mur. From Bruck the linefollows the Mur past the Castle of Pernegg, Mixnitz, SchlossPfannberg, Burg Rabenstein, through the gallery of the Badelwand, past Peggau, with its silver mines, over the Mur, througha narrow defile with the Castle of Gösting, celebrated for its78 GUIDE TO TURKEY.resistance to the Turks, past Judendorf, where the valleywidens, in sharp curves, and across the plain, in the midst ofwhich lies, crowned by its castle,Gratz.HOTELS.-* Erzherzog Johann: B. B. 1 fl. 50 kr. , D. 1 fl. 50kr. Elephant; same price. * Engel: B. B. 1 fl. , D. 50 kr.(very moderate; do for pedestrian bachelors) . If the touristwish to break the long journey over the Semmering to Trieste,he had better do so here.The position of Gratz on the Mur is very romantic, and isbest seen from the Schlossberg. Magnificent view. TheCathedral has a painting by Tintoretto; but the beauties ofnature seem to have rendered art unnecessary in Gratz. Thereis nothing worthy of particular note, except, perhaps, theJohanneum, a kind of miniature Kensington Museum. TheJacominial Café is the best, and generally thronged with officersen pension. "66The line still follows the Mur past Karlsdorf with the CastleWeisseneck, over the Kainach, to Wildon, with the ruins ofSchloss Wildon (600 feet) , where Tycho Brahé lived for sometime, engaged in astronomical observations; past Leibnitz, withCastles Seckau and Labeck, over the Sulm, past Spielfeld(castle) , over a viaduct and tunnel, to MARBURG, on the Drau,or Drave, which the line crosses here, and thence past Pragerhofand Pöltschach, through solitary valleys and wooded hills toCILLI, where the train generally stops to allow the passengerstime for refreshment. From Cilli the railroad follows, andoften crosses, the Sann, through most beautiful scenery, pastMarkt Tüffer, Römerbad, to Steinbrücken, where the valleybecomes so narrow that, up to Sava, there is scarcely room forthe river and the line. At Littai the line crosses the Save,which took up the Sann at Steinbrücken, leaves it near Laase,and follows the Laibach to the town of LAIBACH on its banks.An old castle, now used as a prison, rises above the town. Theswampy morasses in the vicinity are crossed by the train on adyke nearly 8,000 feet long and 13 feet high, whence the lineROUTE III.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 79is carried past Oberlaibach, over a viaduct 1,890 feet long and180 feet high, to Loitsch and ADELSBERG, where the travellershould by all means make it possible to visit the celebrated

• TROPFSTEINHÖHLE, Grotto of Adelsberg, the most magnificent

caves in Europe. They are placed under Government authority,and the charges for admission are 1 fl . each person, and 1 fl. foreach guide (three are necessary) . For seeing the grottothoroughly, with lights and all included, the charge for one ortwo persons will be about 12 fl. , or £1 4s. If ladies ventureto explore the caves, which they can easily do, they should dressin waterproof cloaks to protect them from the damp and dropping water. The entrance is about a mile from the hotel Krone,and is guarded by an iron gate. The most curious and fantasticforms spring up on all sides; palms, waterfalls, columns, figuresof man and beast-all produced by the lime- stone sedimentproduce an impression that will never be effaced . Especiallyweird and " other- world-like " is the sight of the river Poik,from the narrow bridge spanning it, roaring and boiling throughthe bowels of the earth. This river is, in all probability, theLaibach, which rises in Oberlaibach to the earth's surface. Thewholeofthe Julian Alps is burrowed through by the rivers of pastand present times like a rabbit- warren; so that the story doesnot at all seem unlike truth . That remarkable animal, theProteus Anguinus, something of a cross between a fish and alizard, is found in the Poik, but is not indigenous to it. TheMagdalenen Grotte, 35 miles from Adelsberg, is its natural andonly home. It has no eyes, but possesses both lungs, and gillsshaped like small coral branches.From Adelsberg the line is carried across the KARST, a wild ,barren tract of table-land, covered with rugged rocks, andindented with fissures and clefts. A very characteristic featureof the Karst is formed by the funnel- shaped hollows aboundingin all parts, and varying in size from 20 feet to 1,000 feet indiameter. They are called Dollinen. After passing St. Peter,station for proceeding to Fiume by post, the line pierces sixtunnels, past Lesetsche, Divazze, and Sassana, to Prosecco andNabresina. Thence to Trieste, see Route I, page 24.80 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE IV .London to Constantinople or Alexandria, via Munich, Verona,Bologna, Brindisi; or, Munich, Verona, Venice, Trieste;or, Munich, Verona, Venice, Brindisi.WE take Strasburg as our starting-point, in case the travellerdo not prefer the Rhine route viâ Cologne, Mayence, Carlsruhe,and Stuttgart, for which, up to Carlsruhe, we refer him to RouteI, page 24. Strasburg can be reached in a variety of ways.1. viâ Calais and Paris 2. 99 Boulogne 3. دو Ostend and Mannheim4. 99 Ostend and Trèves.......1 Class.£5 2 32 Class.£3 16 2£4 18 9 £3 13 8£2 10 0 £1 19 6£3 1 0 £2 5 0A.London to Brindisi viâ Munich.FaresSee No. 8, D, page 7.Strasburg.1 Class.£13 10 42 Class.£10 10 8HOTELS -Rothes Haus; Hotel de Paris: B. B. 3½ fr . , D.3 fr.; Rebstock: B. B. 2½ fr . , D. 21fr.Pates defoies gras at Henry's, Meisen Gasse; Doyen, Münstergasse. The traveller should by all means visit the Cathedral, ofwhich thefaçade was begun 1277, by Erwin von Steinbach.The general aspect of the Cathedral at a distance strikes thetraveller with a peculiar sense of dissatisfaction from the onesided appearance, caused by the incompletion of one of thetowers. The one, however, that has been finished is the KingROUTE IV.--LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 81of Spires, both in respect of excellence in workmanship and ofheight. It is the highest in all Europe, rising 474 feet abovethe pavement-24 feet higher than the Pyramids, 38 feet higherthan St. Stephen's in Vienna, and 55 feet higher than St. Paul'sin London. There is no danger connected with the ascent, ifone can only manage to keep one's head clear; for the whole ofthe spire is composed of open work, and it would be just possiblefor a man's body to slip through if he were to lose his footing.The delicacy of the workmanship is something extraordinary,and looks more like colossal filagree or lace-work. After havingmounted 380 steps , the platform is reached with a magnificentview extending to the Jura and the Black Forest. Numberlessnames have been cut into the stone, so that this platform canvie with Eton in the collection of souvenirs left here bycelebrities of every denomination. On one stone alone are thenames Goethe; Herder; Lavater; Passavant; the Counts ofStolberg; Schlosser, the historian, etc.From the platform to the top, the traveller must have anespecial order from the Maire.The objects in the interior most worthy of note are theFensterrose or marigold window over the western porch; theAstronomical clock; Southern Porch, by Sabina, the daughter ofErwin; the Kanzel, dating from 1486. The Church of St.Thomas contains: Monument ofthe Marshal de Saxe, by Pigalle,which was ordered by Louis XV. , and took twenty years tofinish. Further busts of Oberlin and other celebrated men.Monument ofGutenberg, on the Gutenberg's Platz, who madehis first attempt at printing in Strasburg.Monument ofKleber, on the Parade Platz .From Strasburg the train crosses the Rhine to Appenweier,thence to Oos, junction for Baden, and past the fortress ofRastadt toCarlsruhe.(See Route I, page 24.)From Carlsruhe the traveller proceeds northward toBruchsal, on the frontier of Würtemberg and Baden , where he82 GUIDE TO TURKEY.will very likely have to change carriages. The train now passesthrough a tunnel, past Heidelsheim, Goudelsheim, and Bretten,where Melanchthon was born, 1497, past Maulbronn, Mühlacker,Vaihingen, to Bietigheim, junction for Heilbronn.The nextstation after Bietigheim is Asperg, with the Castle of HohenAsperg rising up over it. Ten minutes afterwards brings us toLudwigsburg, which Duke Eberhard Louis built for hismistress, and in order to spite the Chambers with whom he hadbeen at variance. If a curse rested upon his mistress, the placewould seem to have inherited it; for it is a dull, deserted- lookingtown, although the palace is one of the largest in Germany.Twenty minutes more bring us toStuttgart.HOTELS -Hotel Marquardt, one of the finest in Germany:B. B. 1 gl. 48 krs. , D. 1 gl. 12 krs.; Hotel König von Wür- temberg; Hotel Adler.Stuttgart is one of the most agreeable towns in the whole ofSouth Germany, and of late years one of the centres ofliterature. Some of the most celebrated publishers of Germanyare established here, as, for instance, Baron Cotta, Hallberger,Paul Neff, Hoffmann, etc.The NATURALIEN CABINET contains several very remarkablespecimens, notably of the geological formation of Würtemberg; especially a set of mammoth's teeth embedded in a slab,found at Cannstatt.The MUNZ CABINET contains a very choice collection of coins,medals, and gems.TheMUSEUM DErBildenden KUNSTE Contains, in a veryhandsome building, a very complete collection of plaster casts, fromthe most celebrated modern and ancient statues. The paintingsare chiefly modern.The PUBLIC LIBRARY possesses the largest collections of Bibles(8,544) in the world. All these buildings are in the Neckarstrasse.The KÖNIGLICHES SCHLOSS, containing a room for every day inthe year, is well worth seeing for the works of Dannecker, whichdecorate it. Also a *Bacchante and Bacchus, by Thorwaldsen.ROUTE IV. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 83One of the most amusing sights in Stuttgart is Ploucquet'scollection of stuffed animals, in all manner of fantastic, grotesquegroups, 58, Hauptstädter Strasse. -They are also for sale.The railway from Stuttgart to Uim lies along the valley ofthe Neckar, as far as Plochingen, and from there along the Filsup to Geisslingen. The scenery is very lovely; hill, dale, andwood interchanging with town and village. Most worthy ofattention along the line areCannstatt,Lying on both sides of the Neckar, and celebrated in the Romanage already for its mineral waters, of which no less thanforty-three springs bubble forth in the town and its vicinity.Shortly after leaving Cannstatt the line passes the Rothenberg,surmounted by a Greek chapel, containing the remains ofOlga, the second wife of the late King of Würtemberg, andstatues by Dannecker and Thorwaldsen. Fifteen minutes' ridebrings us to Esslingen, an old town still surrounded by itsancient walls, and now the seat of a brisk iron manufacture,especially of locomotives, of which one of the largest factoriesin Germany exists here. The Liebfrauenkirche is very fine,with an open-work, octagonal spire. Hans Böblingen, thearchitect, lies buried in it ( 1440.) At Plochingen, we enter thevalley of the Fils, and roll past Reichenbach, Ebersbach, andUihingen to Göppingen, between which and Süssen rises ,about two miles to the left, the Hohenstaufenberg, where, scarcelyperceptible, lie the remains of the parental castle of the Baronsof Hohenstaufen. It was destroyed in the Bauernkrieg, orPeasants' War, in 1525.Half an hour's ride brings the train to Geisslingen, at the footofthe RauheAlp, and crowned byBurg Helfenstein. Geisslingenis a regular German Dieppe, for ivory and bone ware. Thestation is always thronged with man, woman, and child,tormenting the traveller to buy, " Kaufen Sie doch, KaufenSie doch!" they cry incessantly; and 12 krs. laid out willamply repay the donor by his immunity from furtherG 284 GUIDE TO TURKEY.importunity. Leaving Geisslingen the train mounts a steepascent of 1 foot in 50, on which, some years ago, a train ranaway and shot over the embankment, killing several persons ,till it arrives at the top of the water- shed of the Neckar andDanube, and then gradually descends past the out- works andcitadel of Wilhelmsburg toUlm.HOTELS: *Hotel de Russie: B. B. 1 gl. 30 krs . , D. 1 gl . 12 krs.Hotel Lamm: B. B. 48 krs . , D. 36 krs. Ulm is one of the strongestfortresses in Germany, thanks to the Prussians, and the key tothe valley of the Danube. At present it is a very dull place; itschief trade consisting in timber, pipes (meerschaum) , and snails,of which great numbers are exported to France and Austria.The greatest object of attraction in Ulm is the CATHEDRAL,one of the most important in Germany, but, like so many of itscompeers, unfinished. There is always some excellent causeadduced to explain the non- completion of such buildings , and hereit is ascribed to the giving way of the foundations. Morelikely, it is the progress of the ages, which refuses to furnishthe funds for such enormous works of priestly ambition. If ithad been completed, the tower would have been 490 feet high-16 feet more than the Strasburg Cathedral.It has often been sustained, and as often denied, that thetowering forests of pine, with their sharp needles and spiryforms, suggested the Gothic style of architecture. In theUlmer Cathedral, however, there is striking proof that such wasthe case; for the Southern Portal is formed like a tree, with thebranches so bent and interlaced as to form the arch. TheSacramentshäuslein is a fine piece of work by Weingarten, andthe interior contains some admirable sculptures and busts. Thepearl of the whole, however, is the Chief Portal, below thetower, ofthree arches, receding from the front with a successionof pillars and niches.The Rathhaus is a queer old building ( 1370) , and before itstands the Fischkasten, a pure Gothic fountain, by Syrlin.Leaving Ulm, the train follows the Danube through a swampyROUTE IV. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 85

country as far as Offingen, where the line turns to the S.E., pastBurgau, with a mediæval Castle on the Mindel, past Dinkelscherben and Dielhof, toAugsburg.HOTEL: -***Drei Mohren, an excellent house: B. B. 1 A.30 krs. D. 1 fl. 12 krs. This hotel is most likely the oldest in theworld, having been mentioned as early as 1364. Before that timeit was the residence of the chief branch of the celebrated Fuggers , the Merchant Princes ofthe middle ages. When Charles V.set out on his expedition to Tunis, he contracted a loan of2,000,000 fl . from Count Anthony Fugger, and on his return paidhim a visit in person. The weather was cold, and there was notime to warm the rooms thoroughly; so the Count set fire togallons of the finest brandy, and piled up heaps of cinnamon andother valuable woods in the capacious hearth. In the banquetingroom, the second story, he received the Emperor, who commenced to ask his host for a renewal of the bill he held againsthim. " The honour of your Majesty's visit amply repays me, "replied Fugger, andfetching the bond he committed it totheflames.Close to this room is the chapel of the family ( 1502) , and in No. 1on the first floor Napoleon informed the magistrates that theirfree city henceforth belonged to Bavaria. In the tower is thebed-room of Anthony Fugger. This family was the Rothschildof the middle ages, and arose from a stock as humble as thebanker of Frankfort, the founder of the family having been acommon weaver, Conrad Fugger. A piece of cloth woven byhim is still preserved in the Weberhaus belonging to theWeavers' Guild.The wine- cellar is well stocked with excellent wines of allclimes, the living is good; so, all in all considered, it is de rigueurto sleep, or at least dine, beneath the roof where the EmperorsMaximilian, Charles V. , and Napoleon were entertained. Thereis not much else worthy of note in Augsburg. The chief objectsare: the Maximilian Strasse, where the Drei Mohren is situated ,with its three bronze fountains-the first near the Drei Mohren,and the second, opposite the Maurizienkirche, by Vries, andthe third, near the *Rathhaus, by Hubert Gerhard (1590); the86 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Church of St. Ulrich and Afra; the Cathedral; the ResidenzSchloss, celebrated as the scene wherethe confession of Augsburgwas read before Charles V., and Luther and Cardinal Gaetàheld their conference; and finally the Museum and Fuggerie,100 houses at very low rent for poor people-a foundation of theFuggers. The " Allgemeine Zeitung" or the " Augsburgerin,"one of the best German newspapers, the property of BaronCotta, is published here. It was, until lately, and very likelyis still, heavily subsidized by the Austrian Government." DasAusland " is also published here by the same firm.Leaving Augsburg the train crosses the Lech and Lechfeld toPasing, where it crosses the Warm, and in 1 hour fromAugsburg reachesMünchen.HOTELS: *Vier Jahreszeiten: B. B. 1 fl. 48 krs. , D. 1 Al.12 krs.; *Oberpollinger: B. B. 1 fl . 18 krs. , D. 42 krs.; HotelBellevue: B. B. 1 fl. 12 krs. , D. 1 fl.; *Hotel zur Blauen Traube,same prices.CAFES.-Tambosi, Probst, Tanner's.CONFECTIONER.-Tambosi.CABS.-18 kreuzers a course.Munich is the art- centre of South and, in fact, of all Germany.The court of the recent Kings of Bavaria has been and still iswhat Weimar was in the days of Karl August. Natural tasteand outward circ*mstances have both combined in the late KingLudwig and his son, as well as the ex-King of Greece, Otho, incausing a revival of purely classic art, and the formation of anew German school, in many respects based upon the ancient Greek. This will also explain the peculiar appearance of thetown, where classic buildings of Greek and Roman style intermingle with the towers, castellated walls, gable ends, and all the other accessories of the northern feudal times. To a certainextent, all these buildings with their barbarous framing seemout of place. The cloudless sky, the brilliant costume, andnational dresses one meets with in Rome and Athens are allwanting here to complete the picture. Athens or Rome trans-ROUTE IV. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 87ported from its native soil is a failure, vide Edinburgh with itsimitation Cape Colonna. Classic art dropped promiscuouslyinto the humdrum of modern northern life strikes one with asense of dissatisfaction, the same as experienced when seeing somehalf or totally nude classic figure half frozen to death in ournorthern clime, or rotting away with the filth and dirt of endlessLondon fogs . However, this feeling is soon overcome, andafter remaining a few days in Munich, which we strongly recommend, the traveller will find himself in quite a classic frame ofmind, and call in the morning for his toga and sandals!As heretofore, we shall only direct attention to the objectsmost worthy of note, leaving it to the traveller to buy cataloguesof the various galleries, which may be had for a few kreuzers.The following little sketch comprises:-THERESIEN STRASSE4H•IKASERNEN STRASSEBRIENNER STRASSE LUISEN ARCISKARLS STRASSE1. Bonifacius kersche.2. Neue Kuns-Ausstellung.3. Glyptothek.BOTANIC CARDENS.4. Glass Factory.5. Pinacothek.6. New Pinacothek. ARRER88 GUIDE TO TURKEY.This part of the town forms the art-centre of Munich. Com.mencing from the Botanic Gardens, we come to the1. BONIFACIUS KIRCHE, OF BASILICA, erected by Ziebland incommemoration of the 25th anniversary of Ludwig's marriage.As so many of the other public buildings in Munich, it is builtin imitation of the Church of St. Paul, just without the walls ofRome. Thefrescoes are excessively fine, and have been executedby Hess and his pupils. Especially elegant are, *Departureof St. Bonifacius from Netley Abbey, Hampshire (Hess);

• Bonifacius setting out on his Mission to the Friesians ( Hess) .

In the Refectory, Last Supper (Hess) . But this fresco is only are-arrangement of L. da Vinci's.2. NEUE KUNST-AUSSTELLUNG (Academy of Arts) was alsoerected by Ziebland, and contains the works of modern artists.The pediment exhibits a *Group, by Schwanthaler.3. GLYPTOTHEK (Gallery of Sculpture) , built by Klenze, forKing Ludwig, at his own expense, while he was still CrownPrince.Room 1.-Egyptian Antiquities.Room 2.-Greek and Etruscan, of early periods.Room 3.-*Antiquities collected in the island of Egina, 1811 .Restored by Thorwaldsen.Room 4.-Apollo Saal. The *Barberini Muse, by Ageladas(Phidias' master) .Room 5.-Bacchus Saal. The **Barberini Faun, attributedto Praxiteles. *Fanno colla Macchia (Faun with the Stain) .Room 6.-Nioben Saal. The **Ilioneus . The Medusa Rondanini.Room 7.-Götter Saal (Hall of the Gods) .Room 8.—Trojaner Saal.Room 9.-Heroen Saal. *Nero as Gladiator.Room 10.-Römer Saal. Magnificently decorated. *Antinous,

• Geta, *Ceres.

Room 11.-Coloured Sculpture **Ceres.. *Satyr, bronze.Room 12.-Modern Sculpture. *Adonis, Thorwaldsen. **Paris,Canova,4. Pinacothek (Picture-Gallery) . Built by Klenze, 1826.ROUTE IV. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 89The Antechamber contains the portraits of the founders ofthe Bavarian National Picture- Gallery.Room 1.-*Descent from the Cross; * Resurrection, Wohlgemuth. * St. Peter and St. John, * St. Paul and St. Mark, Dürer.Room 2.- *Her own Portrait, Angelika Kauffmann. His ownPortrait, Raphael Mengs.Room 3.-*Virgin and Christ, Vandyke. *Dead Virgin,Vandyke.

• • Room 4. -All works of Rubens. **Fall of the Damned.
  • Last Judgment. *Abduction of Phœbe and Elaira. ** LionHunt. * Portraits of Lord and Lady Arundel.

Room 5.-*Waterfall, Ruysdael. * Satyr, Jordaens.Room 6.-*Boys eating Melons (inevitable article of food inMurillo's paintings) , Murillo. *Portrait of himself, Velasquez.Sunset, Sunrise, Vernet.Room 7.-*Christ, Guercino. Portrait of Pietro Aretino,Titian. *Murder of the Innocents, Carracci.Room 8.-*Bacchante and Venus, Titian.Room 9.-*St. Cecilia, L. da Vinci. *Holy Family, FraBartolomeo.Cabinet 1.-Pictures of the Cologne School. *Head of Christon St. Veronica's Handkerchief.Cabinet 2.-Assumption of the Virgin, Mekenen.Cabinet 3.-*Adoration of the Magi, John van Eyck.Cabinet 4.-Pictures of Hans Hemling. Nothing of greatimportance.Cabinet 5.-*Salutation of the Virgin, Bles.Cabinet 6.-Nothing of importance.Cabinet 7.- *Portraits of Luther and Melancthon, Cranach.Cabinet 8.-** Portraits, Denner.Cabinet 9.-*Pictures by Teniers.Cabinet 10.-Pictures by Jan Steen and Teniers.Cabinet 11.-*Descent from the Cross, Rembrandt. *Elevation, Rembrandt. Hermit, G. Dow. *Soldier and his Pipe,Mieris.Cabinet 12.-*Last Judgment, Rubens. Battle of the Amazons,Rubens.90 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Cabinet 13.-Many excellent portraits, by Van Dyck. *Wallenstein. Tilly. *Sunset, Berghem.Cabinet 14.-*Lady receiving a Letter, Mieris. The satin ofthe dress exquisitely done.Cabinet 16.-Abraham and Hagar, Van d. Werff.Cabinet 17.-*Cows, P. Potter. One of Gerard Dow'sfavourite Hermits.Cabinets 18 and 19.-Saints, etc. Not important.Cabinet 20.-Resurrection, Raphael.Cabinet 21.-*Ecce hom*o, Corregio.Cabinet 22.- * Virgin, Jesus and St. John, Cigani.Cabinet 23.-Portrait, Correggio.The lower story and ground floor contain collections ofEngravings, Drawings, Vases, and Mosaics.5. PAINTED GLASS MANUFACTORY. Entrance in the LuisenStrasse.6.-NEUE PINACOTHEK-New Picture-Gallery. Contains:works of the modern painters, especially fine. **Destruction ofJerusalem, Kaulbach. **Deluge, Schnorr. **Reading of theWill, Wilkie. *Encaustic paintings of places in Greece,Rottmann.These are the most important sights in Munich. Secondaryare the-

• PUBLIC LIBRARY, in the Maximilian's Strasse. 800,000 vols.

Codex Alaricus (506) .

• NATURALIEN CABINET.-Fine collections from the Brazils.
• RUHMESHALLE AND BAVARIA. -Colossal statue, 62 feet high.
• THEATRE.-Max Joseph's Platz.
• STRAFARBEITSHAUS-Prison and House of Correction. Admirably conducted.

SCHWANTHALER MUSEUM.-Casts of Schwanthaler's works.CHURCHES.-*JESUITEN KIRCHE, with Mon. ofEugene Beauharnois, by Thorwaldsen. Fine music.THEATINERKIRCHE.-Altar-piece by Tintoretto.LUDWIGSKIRCHE.-Statues, by Schwanthaler. * Frescoes, byCornelius.

• MARIA HILF.- *Splendid painted windows.

ROUTE IV. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 91

• ALLERHEILIGEN KAPELLE, by Klenze. *** Frescoes byHess

and his pupils.FRAUENKIRCHE.-Monuments by Schwanthaler.PALACES: ALTE RESIDENZ, with the *REICHS KAPELLE.

• SCHATZKAMMER (Treasury) .

NEUE KONIGSBAU, after the Pitti Palace at Florence.

• • Frescoes of the Nibelungenlied, by Schnorr. * FESt- saalbau,

paintings by Hess, Schnorr, and Kobell; sculptures bySchwanthaler. BARBAROSSA SAAL, *HABSBURGER- SAAL; paintings by Schnorr. **THRON- SAAL, statues by Schwanthaler.Such are the inanimate celebrities of Munich. Of livingcelebrities, there live in the town: Kaulbach, Director of theAcademy; Hess, Ott, Kobell, Wagner, Schnorr (most likelyremoved to Dresden); the chemists, Wittgenstein and Liebig;Geibel (until lately) , and many others, to whom the travellercan easily procure an introduction from his bankers. Thestudios ofall the great artists are open on presentation of card.BOOKSELLERS:-Cotta, Karl Merhof.Munich to Innsbruck and Verona.Leaving Munich, the train runs through flat, uninterestingcountry to Grosshesselohe, where the Isar is crossed, pastSauerlach and Holzkirchen, along the Mangfall to Aibling, andthence, in 14 minutes, to ROSENHEIM, junction for Salzburg andInnsbruck. There are some extensive salt-works in Rosenheim,which procure their brine from Reichenhall, 40 miles off, bymeans of a viaduct of iron piping. The line now crosses theMangfall, which here joins the Inn, which the train follows pastRaubling and Neubeuern, an old town opposite, with walls andcastle, to Brannenburg (beautiful position), thence past Fischbach, with the ruins of the Falkenstein, to Kiefersfelden, and (in1 hour and 20 minutes from Rosenheim) to KUFSTEIN, with itsalmost impregnable fortress crowning it on a mass of perpendicular rock. There is only one approach to it, which is so steepand difficult that all provisions, stores, etc., are hoisted upby means of cranes and pulleys.Between Kufstein and Wörgl, the line crosses over to theright bank of the Inn, which it follows to Brixlegg, where it92 GUIDE TO TURKEY.again goes over to the left bank, passing the castles of Matzen,Lichtwer, the ruins of the Kropfsberg, and the entrance to thecelebrated ZILLERTHAL, celebrated for its singers, or Tyroleseminstrels, and its trade in gloves and chamois leather . Over20,000 dozen pairs of gloves are sold yearly. Thence to Ienbach, at the entrance of the valley of the Ache, and past thecastle of Tratzberg, to the right, and Schwaz to HALL on theInn, crowned by an ancient tower, the Münze.Hall is another salt-manufacturing town, and, as at Rosenheim, the brine is conducted to the pans through a system ofpipes six miles long. Joseph Speckbacher, Andreas Hofer'sbravest companion, lies buried here in Hall, which he wrestedfrom the Bavarians and French, April 11 , 1809. On approaching Innsbruck, the Castle of Ambras is seen, where the Archduke, Ferdinand II. , founded a celebrated collection of thesame name, which we have already spoken of, in Vienna. The.railway now crosses the Inn toInnsbruck.HOTELS:-Goldene Sonne; Oestreichischer Hof: B. B. 1 fl.2 krs. , D. 1 fl. Both close to the railway.The situation of Innsbruck, on the Inn, surrounded by precipitous mountain masses shooting up 9,000 feet high, is one ofthe most beautiful in Europe; in fact, of its kind, unique. Thetown itself, with its arcades along the streets , has much of anItalian appearance.The Franziskanerkirche contains the monument of Maximilian I. , by several eminent sculptors, and the monument ofAndreas Hofer, by Schaller.Leaving Innsbruck, the railway winds along the valley of theWippthal and the river Sill, through the most lovely scenery,past Matrei, in a beautiful position, with the castle of Trautson,to the Brenner, the extreme height of the line 4470. Thence in14 hr. to Sterzing, with the castles of Sprechenstein and Reifenstein to Franzensfeste, strong fortifications protecting the BrennerPass. Half-an-hour from here brings us to Brixen, most Italianin the number of its convents and monasteries. From Brixenthe line follows the course of the Eisack, past Klausen, aROUTE IV.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 93curious little town, consisting of one long street, overhung byan enormous mass ofrock, nearly 800 feet high, surmounted bythe Convent of Seben, from which it is said a nun once threwherself, to escape from the hands of some French soldiers whowere pursuing her. Thence past Kollman, with the Falls oftheGrödenerbach and the Trostburg above, and past Atzwang,through the most luxuriant groves of olive, mulberry, and figs,to the valley of Botzen, to the town of BoTZEN, the most important town of the Tyrol. Leaving Botzen, the line crosses theEisack, and soon afterwards, near Branzoll, the Adige, which itfollows, and recrosses it near San Michele, arriving in two hours'time at TRIENT in the most romantic situation, the town teemingwith ancient castles, picturesque ruins, and marble palaces , allsurrounded by a framework of castellated walls, offering anendless choice of subjects to the artist. The Church of SantaMaria Maggiore occupies the site of the house in which theCouncil ofTrent was held, 1545-1563.The line now runs through the broad valley of the Adige, orVal Lagarina, which, at Calliano with the castles of Beseno andDella Pietra, contracts into a narrow gorge, past the ruinedcastle of Castelbarco to Roveredo, one hour's ride from Trient,and which is remarkable for nothing but its silk trade, bad inns,and good wine. Between Roveredo and Mori rises the Castle ofLizzana, inwhich Dantewasaccorded hospitality on occasion ofhisexile from Florence, 1302, by the Count of Castelbarco. At SanMarco, a little further on, are seen the débris of a landslip whichis said to have buried a whole town beneath its masses in theyear 883. Dante has alluded to it (Inferno xii. 4-10) . Thevalley becomes narrower and narrower, till, at Araino, themountains so nearly approach as to leave barely room enoughfor the river and the roads to pass, forming the celebratedChiusa di Verona, with a series of forts commanding the wholeof the road and valley of the river as far as Rivoli, whereMasséna gained the victory over the Austrians in 1797, for whichNapoleon rewarded him with the title of Duke of Rivoli. Herethe line leaves the Adige, and curving to the S.E., past Pescatinaand Parona, where it crosses the river, enters VERONA by the94 GUIDE TO TURKEY.station of Porta Nuova. For Verona and thence to Venice, seeRoute I, page 24.The line from Verona to Bologna is the same as to Venice, asfar as Padua (see Route I, page 48) , where it branches off overflat swampy country in 1 hour to ESTE at the foot of Monte Cero,with the celebrated ROCCA DI ESTE built in 1343, by Carrara,withits parapets, gloomy-looking tower, and yawning embrasures.At Boara the line crosses the Adige, and shortly afterwards theNaviglio Adigetto, anarmoftheAdige, on whichis situated ROVIGO,fifteen miles to the E. of which lies ADRIA, founded on theancient town of that name, which in the time of Augustus was asea-port on the Adriatic, whereas it is now twenty miles from the coast. "Ravenna was also a sea- port, and is now about fourItalian miles from the main sea. Yet, even before the practiceofembankment was introduced, the alluvium of the Po advancedwith rapidity on the Adriatic; for Spina, a very ancient city originally built in the district of Ravenna, at the mouth of agreat arm of the Po, was, so early as the commencement of ourera, eleven miles distant from the sea. "-Sir C. Lyell.One hour and a halfbrings us to Pontelagoscuro, where the Pois crossed, and toFerrara.HOTELS: * Europa; * Tre Corone and Stella d'Oro: B. B. 31,D. 3.Ferrara, the ancient Forum Alieni, was the seat of the famousCount of Este, which, like that of Carl August and the Medici,was thronged with the greatest poets and men of art and scienceof the age. As Goethe sings:"No name ofmark hath Italy to boast,That has not been the guest of Este's host."A galaxy of famous names surrounds that of Este with animperishable halo, that will endure as long as the history of thetimes . Torquato Tasso, Ariosto, represent the poets; DossoDossi, Benvenuto Tisio, Titian, Cosimo Tura, the painters;Calvin and Marat, the champions of the Reformation; and FulvioROUTE IV. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 95Morata, father of the renowned Olympia, " the Diamond of herAge, ” the world of letters .The house of Ariosto, which he built for himself in theStrada Mirasole, bears the poet's own inscription:Parva, sed opta mihi, sed nulli obnoxia, sed nonSordida, parta meo sed tamen aere domus."Small but convenient and clean, and to none owing aught;Possession is mine, my home it will ever remain."The CATHEDRAL SAN PAOLO, 1135, besides possessing manyattractions of architectural interest, contains many specimens ofthe various painters, attracted by the patronage of the Countof Este, such as Cosimo Tura, Garofalo (Benvenuto Sisio),and Guercino. Especially fine is the Last Judgment, byBASTIANINO.

• CHURCH OF SAN FRANCESCO, with a most curious echo,

reverberating 16 times, from all parts of the building, whenawakened by any noise called forth under the cupolas. Itcontains the monument of Marchese di Villa, who foughtand defended Candia, in 1676, against the Turks.All the churches in Ferrara contain some work or other ofnote. A stroll through them will amply repay the time expendedon them.The CASTLE, with its dark frowning appearance, embodies thecharacteristics of the Italian middle ages, as the Rhine castles dothe German. It was in the dungeons beneath this tower thatParisina and her lover were put to death. "They were beheadedin the castle by the sentence of a father and a husband, whopublished his shame, and survived their execution. He wasunfortunate, if they were guilty; if they were innocent, he wasstill more unfortunate; nor is there any possible situation inwhich I can sincerely approve the last act of justice in aparent. " (Gibbon's Miscellaneous Works, vol . iii . p. 470.)The *HOSPITAL OF ST. ANNE, near the Hotel Europa, containsthe cell in which Tasso was imprisoned, as some say, for sevenyears, but in all probability for not more than one- seventh of96 GUIDE TO TURKEY.that period, at least in that particular cell. The names of Byron,Delavigne, and Lamartine are inscribed on the walls. Byron says(1817): "At Ferrara inthe Libraryarepreserved the original MSS.of Tasso's Gierusalemme and Guarini's Pastor Fido, with lettersof Tasso, one from Titian to Anvoto, and the inkstand, chair,tomb, and house ( sic) of the latter. But as misfortune alwayshas an interest for posterity, and little or none for thecontemporary, the cell where Tasso was confined in the Hospitaof St. Anna attracts more attention than the residence or monument of Ariosto-at least it had this effect on me. "The *PUBLIC LIBRARY, containing what Byron has mentioned.The PINACOTHECA, containing the finest collection of paintingsof the Ferrara School.The present appearance of Ferrara still answers to the description given of it by Byron, in Childe Harold:XXXV."Ferrara! in thy wide and grass-grown streets,Whose symmetry was not for solitude,There seems as ' twere a curse upon the seatsOfformer sovereigns and the antique broodOf Este, which for many a year made goodHis strength within thy walls, and was of yorePatron or tyrant, as the changing moodOf petty power impelled, of those who woreThe wreath which Dante's brow alone had worn before.XXXVI.And Tasso is their glory and their shame.Hark to his strain! and then survey his cell!And see how dearly earned Torquato's fame,And where Alfonso bade his poet dwell."After leaving Ferrara the railway passes almost in a straightline over a tract of flat fertile country, well cultivated with rice ,and especially large fields of hemp. There is no place of anyimportance on the line, and in one hour's time the train reachesBologna.HOTELS:--* Il Grande Albergo; * San Marco: B.B. 3 fr. , D.3 fr.; * Il Pellegrino: B. B. 3 fr . , D. 3 fr.ROUTE IV.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 97CAFES: Café Del Commercio; la Barchetta.Bologna is called La Grassa, from the good living of its inhabitants. It is famous for its sausage (morta-dello) , its wine,fruit, soap, and maccaroni, and as being the seat of the Bologneseschool of painting.Like Pisa, too, it possesses two of those remarkable leaningtowers often found in Italy. They are situated near the churchof San Bartolommeo. One, the TORRE ASINELLI, with a height of292 feet, and inclining 3 feet 4 inches, was built by GerhardoAsinelli. The second, TORRE GARISENDA, built by Filippo andOttone Garisenda, is only 161 feet high, but inclines 8 feet tothe east and 4 feet to the south.The CATHEDRAL SAN PIETRO possesses little interest for thegeneral traveller, unless the skull of St. Anna, which was presented by Henry VI. of England, be an attraction.SAN PETRONIO is the largest church in Bologna, dating from1390; is architecturally interesting, and contains many works ofnote.SAN DOMENICO contains the tombs of Saint Dominicus,King Erizio, and of Guido Reni. Fine frescoes by Reni andCaracci.SAN GIACOMO MAGGIORE contains the celebrated Verginedella Autura, by Francia; San Rochus, by Carracci; Madonnaand Child, with four angels and four saints, also by Francia.SAN BARTOLOMMEO DI REUS, Contains several paintings byCaracci.As Bologna contains over 100 churches, it would be impossiblefor us to pretend to furnish a guide to them. For a longer stay,engage a cicerone, or buy Bradshaw's Illustrated Handbook toN. and S. Italy.ACCADEMIA DELTE BELLE ARTI, Academy of Arts . †Room 1.-*God the Father, Guercino. Ecce hom*o, Francia.+ It must always be borne in mind that the paintings of celebrated masters areoften re-arranged-minor ones, never, -in order to force the traveller into buyinga catalogue, which he must do, if he has no time to lose looking for the particular picture he wants to see. This is especially the case in Italy.H98 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Room 2.- *San Giovanni, Guercino. *Portrait of himself,Simone da Pesaro.Room 3.-*Madonna, Vitale da Bologna. *Madonna, Cimada Conegliano.Room 4.-Portrait of Guido, Simone da Pesaro.Room 5.-**Madonna della Pieta, Guido Reni. ** St. Cecilia,Raphael.Room 6.-*Christo dei Capuccini (crucifixion) , Guido Reni.Murder ofthe Innocents, Guido Reni. * Sampson, Guido Reni.Room 7.-*Martyrdom of St. Agnes, Domenichino. *Madonna,Perugino.Room 8.- **Christ crowned with thorns, drawing in crayon,by Guido Reni.Room 9.-Paintings by Francia and Carracci.The houses of Rossini, Guido Reni, and Guercino are still shown.

• Palazzo ZamPIERI, with fine frescoes by Guercino and Caracci. ,

PIAZZA VITTORIO EMMANUELE, with a *FOUNTAIN by Laureti.The UNIVERSITY, with library of 200,000 volumes, of whichCardinal Mezzofanti was once librarian, and whom Byron hasimmortalised in the words: " I tried him in all the languages ofwhich I knew only an oath or adjuration of the gods againstpostilions, pirates, savages, boatmen, sailors, vetturini, postmasters, horses , and everything in post, and, by Heaven! hepuzzled me in my own idiom. " At the time of his death hespoke forty-two languages.Leaving Bologna, the train follows the course of the ancientVia Emilia, over several tributaries of the Po, through a fertile,well-cultivated country, the spurs of the Apennines striking outinto the plain on the right, to IMOLA, where the Santerno iscrossed, and then, past Castel Bolognese, arrives in 1 hour and10 minutes from Bologna at FAENZA, which, to believe CarloPepoli, takes its name from Phaëton:-"Ecco l'ecceslaCittà che prese nome di coluiChi si mal carregiò la via del soleE cadde in Val di Po."ROUTE IV. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 99"Behold the vaunted town that takes its nameFrom him who tried his boasted pow'r to show,And, coursing o'er the Sun's highway for fame,Fell down into the Valley of the Po."Faenza possesses an equivocal interest in its pillage andplunder by Sir John Hawkswood, in the service of Gregory XI. ,who, on 29th of March, 1509, assaulted it, and put over 4,000of its inhabitants to death. Torricelli, the inventer of the barometer, was born here.Crossing first the Lamone, and then the Montone, the trainproceeds in a straight line, in 18 minutes, to FORLI, the ancientForum Livii. HOTEL: Albergo della Posta. If the touristwish to stay a few hours here, he can easily see all that is worthattention.IL DUOMO DELLA SANTA CROCE contains a chapel of theMadonna del Tereco, on which, as Larizi says, Cignani spent 36years of labour.The church of SAN GIROLAMO, with a * Conception, byGuido Reni.The CAMPANILE of the church of SAN MERCURIALE is ofadmirable architecture.The PINACOTECA Contains several works of Carlo and FelicéCignani, Marco Palmezzano, Guercino, and three portfolios ofsketches and drawings by Canova.The CITADEL is celebrated through its defence, in 1499, byCatherine Sforza, against the French and Popish troops underIves d'Allegre and Cæsar Borgia.After leaving Forli, the line crosses the Ranco, passes Forlimpopoli (the ancient Forum Papilii) , and the train, rolling overthe Savio, arrives at Cesena, 6 miles to the south of which lieextensive sulphur mines.Ten minutes after leaving Cesena, a small river is crossed, thePisciatello, which is supposed to be the ancient RUBICON; and,shortly before Rimini, we cross the Marecchia, with the ancient

• BRIDGE of Augustus to the left, one of the best conserved in

Italy, in spite of the 18 centuries that have swept over it.н 2100 GUIDE TO TURKEYHOTELS: *Tre Ré.Rimini.In addition to the bridge of Augustus, we must especiallymention the *PORTA ROMANA, erected in honour of Augustus,out of gratitude, by the inhabitants of Rimini for having re- paired their roads.IL DUOMO DI SAN FRANCESCO, dating from 1420, containingthe tombs and remains of the Malatesta family, and the sepulchres of all the notabilities the Malatestas attracted to Rimini,is well worth a visit.The Citadel CASTEL MALATESTA, half in ruins, was the originalseat of the family, from an episode in whose history Danté hastaken the facts he has so poetically described in the DivinaCommedia:-"Noi leggiavamo un giorno per dilettoDi Lancilotto, come Amor lo strinse:Soli eravamo, e senz, alcun sospetto.Per piu fiate li occhi ci sospinse,Quella lettura, e scolorocci ' l visoMa solo un punto fu quel che ci vinse ,Quando leggemmo il disiato risoEsser baciato da cotanto amante,Questi, che mai da me non fia divisoLa bocca, mi bacio tutto tremante:Galeotto fu il libro, e chi lo scrisseQuel giorno più non vi leggemmo avante. ""One morn we read that tale of wondrous charmHowlove taught brave Sir Lancelot to woo:Alone we sat, nor dreamt of any harmThat from such reading might to us accrue;But as our eyes on each one often gazed,We marked each cheek tinged with a rosy hue,And soon one passage all our passions raised.For when we read how that one burning kissOf love the lady and Sir Lancelot crazed,ROUTE IV.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 101A sudden thrill of nameless, unknown blissShot through my soul, as he whom I adoreJust touched my lips with such a kiss as thisSir Lancelot had kissed in days before:Accursed be the book, and he who wrote the tale!-That day we scanned the luring page no more,That thus, alas! had turned Love's wav'ring scale. ” —H. A. B.Francesca was the daughter of Guido da Polenta, one of Dante'smost cherished friends and protectors, and had been espoused byGianciotto Malatesta of Rimini , deformed in body as well as inmind. His brother Paolo, young and handsome, seduced her,and both were murdered by her husband.The Palazzo Ruffi occupies the site of the house in which thebloody deed was accomplished.From Rimini the line passes close to the sea on the left, withthe mountains on the right, on the top of which lies the formerrepublic of San Marino, past the hamlets of San Martino, SanLorenzo, to Cattolica, where it curves round a headland, andover the Foglia, toPesaro,which, in the times of Lucrezia d'Este, became another smallart-centre, to which the Tassos, father and son, were bothattracted . The church of San Francesco contains a Coronationofthe Virgin, by G. Bellini, and a Santa Barbara, by Simone daPesaro. The library contains some interesting remains ofTasso, and 13,000 volumes, 600 MSS.Not far from Pesaro the Roman poet L. Attius is said to beinterred on the Monte San Bartolo. In 1649, Pope Clement XI.was born here, and, in 1729, Feb. 29th, a man who will beremembered long after all the popes are forgotten-GioacchinoRossini, who, like Shakspeare of Avon, is called the Swan ofPesaro.Leaving Pesaro, the line continues close to the sea, to Fano,with a Triumphal Arch of Augustus, and the Cathedral of SanFortunato, containing sixteen frescoes by Domenichino and aMadonna by Caracci.102 GUIDE TO TURKEY.A little way further on, the line crosses the Metaura, celebrated by the defeat of Hasdrubal (207 B.c.) , and then pastMarotto, where it crosses the Cessano, to SINIGAGLIA, the birthplace of Pope Pio Nono and the celebrated singer, Angelica Catalani. Proceeding onwards, we soon see the headlandstretching out into the sea on which Ancona is situated, which,after passing the Esino, we soon reachAncona.HOTELS -Hotel Royal; La Pace; La Vittoria: B. B. 4 fr. ,D. 3 fr.All that Ancona is celebrated for is , the Triumphal Arch,erected by Trajan, on the Mole; the Cathedral; and the beautyof its women.The Austrian Lloyd steamers touch here, on their way to theLevant, every Thursday afternoon.We should advise the traveller to make the best use of histime, if he have any to spare, and go at once, past Osimo, toLoreto,the celebrated shrine and house of the Virgin Mary. According to the tradition, after the Saracens had taken Ptolemais, thehouse of the Virgin Mary on the Casa Santa was taken up byangels, and deposited on the coast of Dalmatia, to save it fromthe infidels, in 1291. Three years afterwards, it was againremoved by the same supernatural agency, and carried to itspresent situation, on a piece of land belonging to a widownamedLaureta. Hence the name.The *Church della Santa Casa, built by Girolamo Lombardo,is one of the richest specimens of ecclesiastic architecture, andserves merely as a setting to the gem within-the Casa Santaitself, an unpretending brick structure, containing the miracleworking image of the Virgin, cut in cedar-wood by St. Luke(sic) . The Casa is surrounded by a marble frontage, containingsome most excellent ** reliefs by Vasari, Sansovino, Lombardo,etc. , after a design by Bramante.The Battisterio (font) by Vercelli and Vitale; the Treasury,ROUTE IV. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 103with an extraordinary number of jewels and precious objects ofart—many of them royal presents; and the Mosaics by Reniand Domenichino, are the chief objects of note. Collegio deiGesuiti, by Bramante.Palazo Apostolica, also by Bramante, contains: -An admirable

• Woman taken in Adultery, by Titian; * Birth of Virgin

Mary, Carracci.Of all the shrines in Europe, Loreto has attracted the greatestnumber of pilgrims: over 400,000 yearly come to pay theirdevotions here; and amongst a host of celebrated names, Tasso'swill also be found, according to his own testimony66 Ecco fra le tempeste, e ifieri venti,Di questo grande e spazioso mare,O Santa Stella, il tuo splendor m'ha scortoCh'illustra e scalda pur l'umane menti. ""Behold, protected from the storms and windOf this vast space of ever-rolling sea,O Holy Star, thy light has guided me,Illumining and scorching e'en the mind!"Leaving Loreto, eight minutes' ride brings us to Recanati,with the palace of the celebrated Leopardi, and a CathedralSan Flaviano containing the monument of Gregory XII.From Recanati the line continues close along the shore, pastCittanova, San Giorgio, crosses the Tronto, past Mutignano, toPescara.20 min. stoppage. From Pescara, past Ortona, built out intothe sea, over numerous rivers, the largest of which is the Sangro,to Vasto d'Amone. Thence over the Trigno and Sinarca, toTermoli, with a castle overhanging the sea, and the islands ofTremiti, or Insula Diomedis, about twenty miles off, to whichJulia, granddaughter of Augustus, was banished for her amorousexploits. Shortly afterwards the Biferno is crossed. Here theline gradually leaves the coast, and, after crossing the Saccione,proceeds direct southwards, and crosses the Portore to SanSevero. The ancient Gothic Cathedral of San Severo was104 GUIDE TO TURKEY.formerly used as a mosque, when the tract of country around wasoccupied by the Saracens. Between here and Foggia, we crossthe Triola, Salsola, and Candelara.Foggia.15 min. stoppage. This town is admirably situated in a mostluxuriantly fertile plain, amongst groves of olive, mulberry, fig,and nut. Vast plantations of capers, for which Foggia is celebrated, surround it. Wool is also grown here to a great extent,and noted for its fine quality.Leaving Foggia, soon after crossing the Carabella, the lineturns E., and approaches the sea again at Barletta, just beforewhich it bridges the Ofanto, and passes on to Trani. The coastbecomes more inhabited. Bisceglia, Molefetta, Giovenazzo, andBari (junction for Taranto) follow in quick succession.From Bari, two hours' ride, brings us past Mola, Monopoli,Fasana, Ostuni, and San Vito, toBrindisi.HOTELS:-There is no hotel in Brindisi that can be wellrecommended; but passengers by the steamers can go on boardat once, till the time for starting, on the payment of 12 francsa day. Brindisi, the ancient Brundusium, is a very old town,with an excellent deep- water harbour. Many Roman remains.The sea-voyage from here to Alexandria does not take more than3 to 4 days, or about half the time from Marseilles to the Nile.If the traveller prefer it, he can take the steamer to Alexandriafrom Venice. (For fares, see No. 8, sec. B, page 7)ROUTE V.LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. 105ROUTE V.London to Alexandria, via Paris, Turin, Brindisi .[For Fares, see No. 8, sec. C, page 7.]ASSUMING that the traveller has found his way to Paris andtaken his ticket for Turin or Brindisi, we join him atMagon,famous for its wine and its poet-Lamartine -who was bornhere, and where we branch off to the east, over the Saône, pastBourg and Ambérieu, to Culoz, junction for Geneva. Seat yourself on the right hand. On quitting the station the train crossesthe Rhone, and skirting the head of Lac du Bourget, continuesalong its shores past Chatillon to the right, through severaltunnels, toAix-les-Bains.HOTELS:-Hotel Impérial; * Hotel Venat, near the railway:B. B. 4 fr. , D. 5.Aix is the old Roman Aquæ Allobrogum, to whom its warmsulphur springs were well known, and who knew how to appreciate them, as the remains still extant amply testify, especiallythe Triumphal Arch of Pompejus Campanus of the 3-4 cent.and the Baths, which are in an excellent state of preservation .Leaving Aix, seat yourself to the right, so as to enjoy the magnificent view of the western shores of the lake, rising up almostperpendicularly in a wall of limestone above the waters. Theruins at the south end of the lake were formerly the residenceof the counts of Savoy.Chambery.HOTELS -Hotel de France, B. B. 42, D. 4; Petit Pau's,B. B. 3 fr. , D. 3 .106 GUIDE TO TURKEY.The great lions of Chambery, to use an Hibernicism, are theelephants adorning the *FOUNTAIN to the memory of Generalde Boigne, who, after amassing a fortune of three and a halfmillion francs, left it to the town of his birth. In former timesthe Santo Sudario, or Holy Shroud, in which the body of ourLord was wrapped, was kept here in the chapel, within theprecincts of the castle of the Dukes of Savoy, and to see whichFrancis I. made a pilgrimage on foot from Lyons. A shortdistance to the south of the town lies Les Charmettes, theresidence of Jean J. Rousseau and Madame de Warens.Xavier le Maistre was also born here. Quitting Chambery theline takes a south- easterly course, past the castles of Bâtie andChignin, with Mont Grauier on the right, easily recognised byits peculiar shape, originating in a landslip which buried 16villages in 1248, to Montmelian, crowned by the remains of thecastle above, which an ancestor of Cavour's held for thirteenmonths against the forces of Louis XIII. , and was finallydestroyed by Louis XIV.The train now follows the course of the Isère, through mostbeautiful scenery, as far as the embouchure of the Arc, alongwhich it then runs past various small and unimportant places toSan Michel and Modane, whence the line will leave the valley ofthe Arc to plunge into the depths of Mont Cenis, when thetunnel is completed. At present, by means of Fell's Railway, thetourist-O shades of Hannibal! —crosses the Alps by steam!Half an hour after leaving Modane the train winds up toBramans, with the fortress Bramant d'Essilon perched upabove the gorge of the Arc, with a Pont du Diable connectingthe road with the fort. The line mounts even steeper, the Arcfretting and turmoiling down below, and then slightly descending, arrives atLans-le-Bourg,a miserable village, on the northern foot of Mont Cenis. TheHôtel de l'Europe is good.Susa.Remarkable for nothing but its antiquity and a TriumphalROUTE V. -LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. 107Arch, erected 8 B.C. , by a certain Julius Cottino in honour ofAugustus. The situation, in a rocky amphitheatre, is verypicturesque, and the mountains above it, the Monte di RocciaMelone, 11,136 feet high. It is crowned by a chapel which wasfounded by a certain Bonifacio di Asti, who had made a vow,whilst held in durance by the Saracens, that in case the Virgindelivered him, he would erect an altar to her honour; which,as there is ocular proof, he did.From Susa the line follows the left bank of the Dora, pastBussoleno, Borgone, San Antonino, and San Ambrogio, crownedby the celebrated Abbey of San Michele della Chiusa, perchedupon the heights, 2,800 feet above the sea. Next to the Monastery of Mar Saba, in the valley of the Kedron, there is scarcelya building of such romantic position to be found. The wallsand rocks intermingle to an extent almost defying one to saywhere nature ceases and art commences. Halls, corridors,vaults and cells, and ancient sepulchres lead one into the other;but the most curious is the vault containing a number of desiccated bodies, which have been there from time immemorial,their origin lost in obscurity. The ascent to this abbey will bewell repaid by the romantic remains and the exquisite views onall sides .From San Ambrogio a few minutes' ride brings us to Avigliana,presenting, with its ancient castle and tower, a perfect gem of apicture. The traveller is sure to be bothered here by personswishing to sell hydrophane, a curious mineral, which becomestransparent on being immersed in water. Thence past Rosta(station for RIVOLI) , Alpignano, and Collegno toTurin.HOTELS:-* Hotel Trombetta: B. B.4½ fr. , D. 4; * Gran Bretagna, same price; Hotel Feder; *Albergo di Londra, moderate.CABS -1 franc the " corsa. Omnibuses from the PiazzaCastello to the gates, 10 cent.CAFES:-* Café de Paris (restaurant); * Café San Carlo, nosmoking. Spécialités in these cafés are:-Grissini, a kind ofrusk bread; Bicchierini, a mixture of chocolate, coffee, and108 GUIDE TO TURKEY.milk-not bad. Best wines are: Grignolino, Barbera, andNebiolo.BOOKSELLER: LOESCHER, Via Carlo-Alberto, 5.Turin, the ancient Augusta Taurinorum, was the capital ofItaly from 1859-1865, and since then has lost much of itsimportance. It lies on the Po, and is built on the Americanblock system, the streets all cutting each other at right angles .It is quite a modern town, and of all places in Italy the poorestin art or historical reminiscences .The CATHEDRAL contains the Santo Sudario, already referredto (page 106) , in a chapel, by Guarini, a Theatine Monk, architectof several works in Turin (1624-1683) . According to tradition,this shroud was the one which Joseph of Arimathea wrappedthe body of our Lord in,-—or rather, it is only one of the folds;so precious a prize could not be allowed to be monopolisedby one church or town. Consequently there are three more:one at Rome, one at Cadonin, and one in Besançon, each with animpression ofthe Saviour's body. The four statues of membersof the House of Savoy are worthy of attention; especially

• Emanuel Philibert by Marchesi.

SAN LORENZO is a very good specimen of Guarini's style ofarchitecture, especially showing his love for ribbed domes.LA CONSOLATA, also by Guarini, richly decorated with colouredmarbles, containing a miracle-working Virgin by Giotto.SAN FILIPPO is one of the finest in Turin; was built byGuarini, but fell in (1714) , and was reconstructed by Giuvara.PALAZZO MADAMA contains: PINACOTECA.Room 1 .-*Entombment (on wood) by Ferrari.Room 2.-* Magdalena washing the Saviour's feet; **Findingof Moses, Paolo Veronese.Room 3.-Old Man, by Titian.Room 4.-Adoration of the Shepherds, Titian.Room 5. - Handkerchief of Saint Veronica, Correggio.Madonna, by Guido Reni.Room 6.- ** Madonna della Tenda, by Raphael Sanzio.Madonna, by Andrea del Sarto.Room 7.-The Elements, by Albani. Herodias, by Luini.ROUTE V. -LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. 109Room 8.-Cromwell and Wife, by Sir Peter Lely. Childrenof Charles the First, by Van Dyck. *Jewish Rabbi, byRembrandt.Room 9.-Landscape, Wouvermans.Rooms 10 and 11.-Nothing particular.Room 12.—*Burgomaster, Rembrandt.Room 13.—Landscapes, Claude Lorraine.Rooms 14 to 17.-Nothing particular.Room 18.-Thomas of Savoy, Vandyck.ACADEMIA DELLE BELLE ARTI contains:Venice, Canaletti. *Virgin, L. da Vinci.Ferrari.The UNIVERSITY contains:

• Twelve views of
• Cartoons, Gaudenzio

MUSEO EGIZIO E D'ANTICHITA, with Dovretti's collection ofEgyptian Antiquities. Especially worthy of note: -* Greenbasalt Sarcophagus. *Altar in black granite (3,000 years B.C.) .

• Cupid sleeping in Lion's skin. Oracle Head of Juno-a curious

specimen of priestcraft, hollowed out for the purpose of containing a " vox et præterea sacerdotes. " * Papyrus roll representing the trial of a Soul before Osiris (40 yardslong).The LIBRARY contains 112,000 vols. , with Bede's Commentaryon St. Luke, and MS. copy of Thomas à Kempis' IMITATIONE CHRISTI.Turin contains a number of squares. The largest is PIAZZACASTELLO, with the Palazzo Madama in the centre, and thePIAZZA REALE to the N.W. The Via Nuova, on the S. side ,leads to the PIAZZA SAN CARLO, with the * Statue of EmanueleFiliberto, by Baron Marochetti, and the Churches of SanCarlo.Borromeo and Santa Christina. Following the Via DoraGrossa from the Madama, the sixth turning on the right leadsto the *PIAZZA SICCARDI, formerly PIAZZA SAVOIA, renamedafter the minister Siccardi, with an *Obelisk 90 feet high in hishonour, for having in 1850 brought in a bill abolishing ecclesiastical jurisdiction in civil affairs. The names of those who voted in its favour are inscribed on the Obelisk. The PIAZZA AMADEO110 GUIDE TO TURKEY.with *Monument of Amadeo VI. , the celebrated Conte Verde(Green Count).From the PIAZZA VITTORIO EMANUELE a fine bridge crossesthe Po, leading to the GRAN MADRE DI DIO, built in miniatureimitation of the Pantheon at Rome, and, a little to the right, tothe MONTE DEI CAPUCCINI, with an excellent *View over thetown and to the peaks of Monte Rosa and Iseran in the N.; SanMichele della Chiusa (see page 107) and Mont Cenis in the W.,Monte Viso, S.W. , and the valley of the Po in the S.The GIARDINO PUBLICO, on the Po, contains the *Monumentof Daniele Manin, Dictator of Venice, and is the favourite resortof the beau monde of Turin.Turin is the birth- place of Cavour, whose house is in the ViaLagrange, and the celebrated Gioberti, the priest who advocateda free Italy under a free pope. Count d'Azeglio, novelist, painter,soldier, and statesman, "multum in parvo, " was also born here.Leaving Turin the line curves round to the E., and at Moncalieri, crowned by the palace in which Victor Emanuele I. died,crosses the Po, and at Villanuova, the Borbone, which it followsto its junction with the Tannaro just before Asti, celebrated forits wine, and as being the birth-place of Alfieri, the poet. Thencepast several small stations, along the left bank of the Tannaro,which it crosses, to Alessandria, a large flourishing town (54,000inhabitants) , the birth- place of Ratazzi, but otherwise of no note,except as a fortress originally erected against Barbarossa.Quitting Alessandria, the line crosses the battle-field ofMarengo and the Bormida, soon after passing the station ofMarengo, and continues in a straight line to Tortona, the ancientDertona, in the cathedral of which there is a curious sarcophagus to the memory of Elius Sabinus, exhibiting a strangemixture of Christianity and Paganism. At Tortona the line takesa north-easterly course to VOGHERA, with the Church of SanLorenzo, containing a thorn from the crown of the Saviour, andthen arrives at Castiggio, where, and round the village of Montebello, the battle of that name was fought, 9th June, 1800. AtBroni the railway approaches the Po, which is crossed by aniron bridge atROUTE V.- LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. 111Piacenza.HOTELS: *Croce Bianca: B. B.3fr. , D.3 fr.; San Marco; Italia.The ancient Placentia is situated near the junction of the Poand the Trebbia.The DUOMO, dating from the 12th century, is curiouslyornamented with rude sculptures and frescoes by Guercino.The CAMPANILE contains an iron cage for prisoners.SAN SISTO is celebrated from being the church for whichRaphael painted his master-piece, the * SISTINA MADONNA,which was sold to Augustus III. of Poland, and at present is inthe Dresden Gallery. Twenty thousand ducats were paid for it,and a copy by Nagari set up in its place. The church itself isvery richly ornamented.SAN GIOVANNI contains a monument of the renowned MichaelScott, the wizard, and his family.The PALAZZO FARNESE, the whilom palace of Margaret ofAustria ( 1558) , has been converted into barracks. Two equestrian statues adorn the space in front, by Mocchi, of two of theFarnese family who succeeded to the government of Piacenza inthe 16th century. One is of the celebrated Alessandro, Prince ofParma, whose name is familiar in connection with the SpanishArmada; the other is of Ranuccio, son of Alessandro, a barbarous,bloodthirsty tyrant, who, instead of having a monument to hishonour, should have a tablet inscribed with his deeds of infamyerected to hold up his memory to universal execration.From Piacenza the line follows the course of the Via Emiliapast San Lazaro and Ponte Nure, where it crosses the riverNure to Fiorenzuola, the ancient Fidentia, and birth- place ofAlberoni, governor of the college at San Lazaro. Thence toAlseno and BORGO SAN DOMINGO, and past Castel Guelfo, overthe Taro (to the right, a magnificent bridge, 1078 feet long, of 20arches, with a fine view of the Apennines) , toParma.HOTELS: *Albergo della Posta; Pavone: B. B. 3 fr. , D. 3 fr.RESTAURANT: -Italia.112 GUIDE TO TURKEY.SPÉCIALITÉS:-Parmesan cheese. Best made in and aboutLodi. Spiced ham and sausages.The DUOMO contains: Frescoes by Correggio; *Assumptionof the Virgin, in the Octagon Cupola, by Correggio; *David andCecilia, in the choir, by Procaccini; Crucifixion, by Gatti;Mausoleum of Petrarch, who was once Archdeacon.The BATTISTERIO and CAMPANILE. The former is one of thefinest in Italy, and was built, in red and grey marble, byAntelami, 1196. In one corner there is a curious font, inscribedwith Runic characters. The larger font was cut out of one blockof marble, in 1298, by JOHANNES PALLASSONUS.SAN GIOVANNI EVANGELISTA. Frescoes by Correggio . * St.James and the Virgin, by Girolamo Mazzuoli.SAN LODOVIG. Frescoes by Correggio in the Cameradi San Paolo. * Monument of Count Neipperg, by Bartolini.MADONNA DELLA STECCATA, built, in 1532, by Zaccagna. Itderives its name from a steccato, or railing, placed around theimage of the Virgin, which was painted on the wall of a house,and afterwards removed to a chapel, on the site of which thepresent church was erected. It contains frescoes by Mazzuoli.

• Assumption, by Gatti.

ACADEMIA DELLE Belle Arti contains a Pinacoteca, Library,and Museum.PINACOTECA.Room 1.-Antechamber. Nothing of note.Room 2.-*Madonna della Scala, Correggio. *Virgin_andChild, Parmigianino.Room 3 (an oval) .-Two statues of green basalt, representingBacchus and Pan, and Hercules.Room 4.-Dead Christ, by Caracci.Virgin, Caracci.

• Coronation of the

Room 5.-*Descent from the Cross, by Schidone. Copies ofCorreggio, Toschi.Room 6.- *Madonna di San Vitale, Francia. Martyrdom ofPlacidus and Flavia, Correggio. Statue of the Empress MariaLouisa, by Canova.Room 7.- *Madonna di San Girolamo, Correggio. Landscapes,Canaletti.ROUTE V.- LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. 113Room 8.-Erasmus, Holbein. Petrarch, Caracci. Drawingsafter Correggio, by Toschi.Room 9.-**Madonna della Scodella, Correggio; so calledfrom the dish which she holds in her hand.Room 10.-Nothing particular.Room 11.-Madonna with St. Jerome, Mary Magdalene, andSaviour, Correggio. By this picture there hangs a tale . Correggio received for it from the lady by whom it was ordered 47ducats, a cartload of wood, two loads of wheat, a pig, and hisboard whilst painting it . Subsequently, Don John of Portugalis said to have offered 460,000 francs for it.Room 12.-Nothing particular.Room 13.-Jesus Glorified, Raphael. Holy Family, Francia.Deposition, Francia.Room 14.-*Christ bearing the Cross, Titian. * Madonna,Cima da Conegliano.The LIBRARY contains 140,000 vols. Amongst them theKoran, which was found in the tent of Kara Mustapha, afterthe defeat of the Turks before Vienna (see page 76) . Finecollection of engravings. A MS. copy of Dantè, by Petrarch.MUSEO D'ANTICHITE. Very interesting is the TabulaAlimentaria Trajani, a bronze tablet, in which Trajan ordersand portions out a gift of 1,144,000 sesterces for the poor.Colossal bust of Maria Louisa, Canova.TEATRO FARNESE, the largest in Italy, but-of wood.Parma was the birth- place of Parmigiano Cassius, the friendof Orrutus, and Macrobius.Leaving Parma, the line continues its course along the ViaEmilia, over the Enza, and past SAN ILARIO, to REGGIO, theancient Rhegium Lepidi, and birth- place of Ariosto ( 1533) andSpallanzani.The DUOмо and MADONNA DELLA CHIARA are the chicfobjects of note. Six miles to the N.E. lies CORREGGIO, thebirth-place of Antonio Allegri, surnamed Correggio; and sevenmiles to the S.E., CANOSSA, with the ruins of the castle in whichthe German Emperor, Henry IV. , had to wait, bareheaded andbarefooted, in the cold and rain for three days, before PopeGregory would grant him absolution ( 1077) .. I114 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Leaving Reggio, the train rolls past Rubiera, with its tumbledown fortifications, and crosses the Secchia, toModena.HOTELS: Albergo Reale; Albergo San Marco.The DUOMO Contains the *Tombs of St. Gemminianus, DukeHercules III. , Rinaldo d'Este; Altar-piece by Dosso Dossi.The * CAMPANILE, one of the finest in Italy ( 1224) , is 315 feethigh, and contains an old bucket, which the Modenese capturedin a skirmish with the Bolognese, November 15, 1565. Alessandro Tassoni has made this episode the subject of an epic,"La Secchia Rapita " ( 1616) , which has procured him a statuein the PIAZZA DEL DUOMO.SAN PIETRO contains an Assumption, by Dossi; *DeadChrist, in terra cotta, by Begarelli.SAN MICHELE (formerly Agostino): Monument of Muratori,whose statue is in the Piazza Muratori. **Deposition, in terracotta, by Begarelli , of which Angelo said, " Woe to the antique -ifterra cotta could become marble!"The PALAZZO DUCALE contains an excellent picture-gallery.Room 1.-Antechamber.Room 2 .-*Madonna, Bellini; Crucifixion, Mantegna..Room 3.-Holy Family, Bellini.Room 4.- *Madonna, Palma Vecchio; *Deposition, Cimada Conegliano; his own Portrait, Paolo Veronese.Room 5.-**Christ on the Cross, Guido Reni.Room 6.- *Madonna, Garofalo.Room 7.-Nothing particular.Room 9.-Holy Family, Andrea del Sarto; Madonna andChild, Duke of Leyden.Rooms 10-13. - Several paintings by Guercino, Dossi, Strozzi,Tiarini, etc.The line crosses the Panaro after leaving Modena, and runspast Castel Franco, over the Saimmogia, past Lavino on theancient Lavinus, through a very picturesque approach toBologna.(See Route IV, page 96.)ROUTE VI.-LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 115ROUTE VI.London to Constantinople or Alexandria, via Parisand Marseille .For Fares, see No. 5, sec. C, and No. 7, secs . A and B.As heretofore, we join the tourist at MAEON. For all information regarding Paris, we refer him to Bradshaw's France or theContinental Guide Book, which latter is in any case indispensable to ascertain the times of departure by rail and steamer.Leaving Maçon, the line follows the course of the Saône, andin about 1 hour's time arrives at.Lyons.HOTELS:-*Grand Hotel de Lyon, B. B. 3½ fr. , D. à la carte.Hotel du *Nord, B. B., 4½ fr. (lunch) , D. 3 fr. Grand HotelCollet. * Hotel du Havre et Luxembourg, pension per day7 fr.RESTAURANTS:-Bavour, Place de la Préfecture, Maison Dorée,Place Bellecour.OMNIBUS:-From station to hotel, 50 cents .; with luggage,75 cents .The situation of Lyons on the confluence of the Rhone andSaône is one of the most beautiful and striking on the wholeroute. The two rivers are spanned by no less than 17 bridges,the view of which and the whole town can best be seen from theterrace before the church of NOTRE DAME DE FOURVIE RES,whence, if the atmosphere be clear, Mont Blanc can easily be seen.The CATHEDRAL ST. JEAN BAPTISTE, dating from the 13thcentury, is architecturally interesting.116 GUIDE TO TURKEY.PALAIS DES BEAUX ARTS, open daily, 9 to 3, contains-

• St. Francis, by Rubens; Madonna and Child, Dürer; *Ascension, Pietro Perugino. **Bronze tables , with the oration the

Emperor Claudius delivered in the year 48 in favour of GalliaCornata.The PLACE DES TERREAUX, opposite the Palais des BeauxArts, was the scene of Cinq Mars' and De Thou's execution, byorder of Richelieu , in 1642, Sept. 12.Lyons is the birth- place of the celebrated botanist, BernardJussieu, and Jacquard, the inventor of the loom, to which itowes so much.Seats-Right Hand.Immediately on leaving Lyons, the train crosses the Rhonethrough a lonely country, mountains all around, past St. Fons,Feysin, Serezin, CHASSE, and Estressin to VIENNE, of which,however, the tourist can see nothing from the train, as the linepasses underneath it. To the right rises the mountain groupof Mont Pilat ( 3690); the line still follows the course of theRhone at some little distance past the stations of Vaugris, LesRoches, Le Péage, Salaise, ST. RAMBERT, junction for GRENOBLE, Andancette, and St. Vallier, where it enters a cutting, onissuing from which, the Château de Ponsas is seen, where,according to tradition, Pontius Pilate is said to have lived afterhis banishment. Now comes Serves and TAIN, where the Alpsand Mont Blanc are visible in the distance to the left, affordinga most beautiful view, like the entrance into fairy-land.Opposite Tain, and connected with it by a bridge, lies Tournon,with the castles of Tournon and Soubise. Soon afterwards wecross the Isère, coming from Grenoble (splendid view) , andpassing St. Peray, with its romantically situated Château deCrussol, arrive at VALENCE, with its ancient walls, gloomytowers, and quaint old-fashioned houses, where the Sous-lieutenant d'Artillerie, Napoléon Bonaparte, existed on his scantyallowance, dreaming of the future awaiting him. It was here,too, that Pius VI. died in captivity, Aug. 29, 1799.ROUTE VI. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 117In 1798, Berthier entered Rome when the fickle Roman mobwas singing,Non abbiamo pazienza;Non vogliamo Eminenza,Non vogliamo Santita;Ma Eguaglianza e Liberta.(We have no patience; we want no Eminence, we want noHoliness, but Equality and Liberty); and General Ceroni, forcing his way into the Vatican, said:-" High priest! your government is at an end; the people themselves have assumed thesovereignty. " Thereupon the Pope was stripped of his valuables,even to his ring, and ordered to put on the tricolor, to whichthe old man replied , “ My uniform is that of the Church. " Hewas then led, first to Sienna, and then to Florence, where hewas imprisoned in the Carthusian Monastery, and finally toValence, where his memory is commemorated by a bust in theCathedral, by Canova.From Valence past Etoile, LIVRON, Loriol, where the line drawsnearer to the Rhone, and Saulce to MONTELIMAR, where there isa celebrated spécialité in sweetmeats made-nougeât. It is soldin boxes of 2 francs each, and is composed of pistachio nuts,almonds, honey, etc. It is by no means bad.At Montelimar the line leaves the Rhone, and, passing a number of small unimportant places, we arrive, in 1 hour 6 minutes from Montelimar, atOrangeHOTEL: *Hotel de la Poste, B. B. 3½ fr. , D. 3 fr.From this town, the ancient Arausio, the House of Nassaureceives the title of Princes of Orange, and in fact it belonged toNassau till the death of our King William III. ( 1702) . Shortlybefore arriving in the town, a TRIUMPHAL ARCH is seen on theright, dating from the times of Marcus Aurelius. There is alsoa *ROMAN THEATRE here, 136 feet high, 352 feet long, and withwalls of 14 feet thick; and many remains of the ancientwalls.Leaving Orange, the train passes Courtheson and Bedarrides(Biturrita, from its two towers) to Sorgues, where the line again118 GUIDE TO TURKEY.approaches the Rhone, and thence past Le Pontet to the ancientwalls and towers ofAvignon,HOTELS: Hotel de l'Europe (dear); *Hotel Luxemburg;B. B. 3 fr. , D. 3½ fr.Of Avignon the popular rhyme says, referring to the mistral(N.W. wind):-Avenio ventosa,Sine vento venenosa,Cum vento fastidiosa.Avignon, the ancient Avenio, was a Roman colony, and from1309 to 1377 a Papal residence, and remained a Papal possessiontill 1791, when it again came to France.HeThe first Pope who took up his residence in Avignon wasClement V. He was followed by John XXII. , a cobbler's son,and the writer of the celebrated hymn, “ Stabat Mater dolorosa. "Then came Benedict XII. , Clement VI. , and Innocent VI.was succeeded by Urban V., when the disadvantages of thePope's absence began to be felt in Italy, as the following anecdoteproves:-" Barnabo Visconti of Milan had refused to sanction the ordination of a monk who had been recommended to him by theArchbishop; to whom he cried out, ‘ Know, sir, that I am King,Pope, and Emperor in my own dominions.' Hereupon Urbanexcommunicated him, and put his country in the ban. Whenthe Legate arrived at Milan with the Papal Bull, Visconti hadhim taken to the Naviglio bridge, and holding out the Bull towards him said, ' Will you eat or drink?' Under such circ*mstances it is not surprising that the Legate preferred theBull to the river, though it must have been a queer kind of beef. "Gregory XI. transferred the Papal residence back to Rome.The CATHEDRAL, perched up 340 feet high, on the Rocher desDons, contains the *Tombs of John XXII. ( 1334) and BenedictXII. (1342) . The building close to the Cathedral, which is nowused for barracks, was formerly the *PAPAL RESIDENCE, andbuilt more like a fortress than an ecclesiastical palace. HereRienzi was imprisoned in the Tour des Oubliettes.ROUTE VI. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 119Avignon is the birth- place of Vernet, the painter; and it washere, in the Church of the Convent of St. Claire, that Petrarchfirst saw Laura de Noves, whom he devoted all his life to incomposing poems and sonnets. The view of the town fromthe CATHEDRAL is very fine. The picturesque views of the

• Bridge over the Rhone are the remains of one built by St.

Benezet, 1177-1188. He was the founder of the order of FratresPontifices, or Bridge- Builders, one of the monkish orders of themiddle ages , whichwere a blessing, not a curse, to their contemporaries. Besides the bridge at Avignon, they had a ferry over theturbulent Durance, which we pass after leaving Avignon, and asplendid structure over the Rhone at St. Esprit, 1265. One ofthis order, a monk named Joconde, built the first stone bridge atParis in 1499, for which good deed he received the nickname ofPontifex.After leaving Avignon, the line crosses the Durance, and,passing Barbentane and Graveson, arrives at Tarascon, with itsancient castle, and the town of Beaucaire, connected with it bya bridge. Thence past Ségonnaux toArles.HOTELS: Hotel du Nord: B. B. 31, D. 3 fr .; Hotel du Forum.Both close to the Roman remains, which, with those in Nîmes,are the most important in France.

• The THEATRE is still adorned with two Corinthian columns;

contains the whole of the stage and part of the body complete.

• The AMPHITHEATRE is 1560 feet in circumference, 315 feet

long, and 165 feet broad. Ofthe two rows of arches, the upperone is Corinthian, the lower one Doric.The MUSEUM Contains some very fine fragments and antiquities, collected chiefly from the Theatre and Amphitheatre.The CATHEDRAL dates from 746, and has a very fine Portal ofthe Fifteenth Century.The CLOISTERS are of great interest.Leaving Arles, the line crosses the rocky plateau of Crau, pastsome unimportant places to Saint- Chamas, where we reach theEtang de Berre, a large sheet of water, along which the line120 GUIDE TO TURKEY.is carried for some time till it enters a tunnel at Rognac, andthen through the wildest scenery of vast blocks of grey stone,tossed about pell-mell in all manner of fantastic groups, pastVitrolles and L'Estaque toMarseille.HOTELS: * Grand Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix; * GrandHotel de Marseille; *Grand Hotel des Empereurs: B. B. 4 fr. ,D. (table d'hôte at 5.30 P.M. ) 4 fr. Pension in the last, 6—8 fr.a day. * Hotel des Colonies, Hotel des Ambassadeurs: B. B. 31fr.; table d'hôte 3 fr .; pension per day 6 fr.RESTAURANTS: *De la Cannebière; * Hotel d'Orient.CAFES: *Café de France, Cannebière; * Café Bodoul, RueSt. Ferréol.BOOKSELLER: Veuve Camoin, Cannebière; reading-room, 25cent. per day.Marseille, the ancient Massilia, was founded 600 в.c. by aGreek colony from Phocæa, and conquered by Julius Cæsar49 B.C."From the proud mart of Pisa,Queen of the western waves,Where ride Massilia's triremes,Heavy with fair- haired slaves."For which immoral traffic, retribution came in shape of theSaracens, who utterly destroyed it in the ninth century. In1792, Marseille , in spite of its loyalty to the Royal Family, wasforced to furnish the scum of its galleys to the Revolution underthe leadership of Rouget de l'Isle, who composed that embodiment of blood and barbarity, " La Marseillaise." I wonder howmany of our fair ladies, going into ecstacies over this song atone of Broadwood's " grands, " know that it was composed for agang of galley- slaves of the worst and lowest description!Being a commercial town " pur et simple, " there is not muchto see of artistic worth at Marseille. But those who incline toBen Jonson's mode of thinking-" Sir, give me a walk downFleet Street " -will find ample amusem*nt in walking aboutLa Cannebière and the quais, where a perfectly EuropolitanROUTE VI. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 121crowd is always seething and teeming with the weighty cares ofbusiness, or luxuriating in " far niente."The most interesting places are: ** FORT NOTre Dame de laGARDE (magnificent view); the **PRADO, a continuation of theRue de Rome, leading to the CHATEAU DES FLEURS. (A roadleads into the Prado from Notre Dame de la Garde.)The Château des Fleurs is a small park-a kind of miniatureCremorne.The TRIUMPHAL ARCH at the end of the Rue d'Aix, thenorthern continuation of the Rue de Rome, was originally builtto commemorate the Spanish campaign under the Ducd'Angoulême. The Château d'If, so celebrated by Dumas'Monte Christo, is the scene of Mirabeau's imprisonment.One peculiar feature of Marseille will at once strike thetraveller with admiration, namely, the number of rivulets flowing through the town, adding in no small degree to the cleanliness and salubrity of the place. The water is brought from theDurance, a distance of more than 60 miles. The agents for thePeninsular and Oriental Co. are Messrs. R. Gower; the officesof the Messageries Impériales, No. 16, Rue Cannebière.Consult Bradshaw's Continental Guide for the times of departure.122 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE VII.London to Constantinople via the Danube.For Fares, see No. 5, secs. B & C.For Route to Passau, see Route III, page 71.If he prefer it, the traveller can take the Danube steamboatat Ulm (for which, see Route IV, page 84); but, with the exceptionof the portion between Neustadt and Regensburg, where theDanube flows through a narrow defile, called the Lange Wand,and where the precipices rise upto a height of 600 feet actuallyoverhanging the river, the country is flat and uninteresting.The finest scenery commences at Passau (for which, see RouteIII, page 71) .Fares from Passau to Vienna, 1 cl. £1 2s; 2 cl. 15s.One ofthe finest views on the whole river is that gained whenlooking back upon the town, after having passed the mouth ofthe Inn. A curve in the river hides the city from view, andwe enter upon what, to all appearance, seems to be a lake, entirely surrounded by precipitous mountains and sombre pine andfir forests, out of which rises the Castle of Krempelstein perchedup on a solitary crag to the right. Further on to the left thevillage of Oberzell is passed, celebrated for the excellent cruciblesit produces; then the ruins of Fichtenstein to the right, andthrough the rapids of Grünau, produced by a reef of rocks, oneofwhich is inscribed with the arms of Austria on one side andwith those of Bavaria on the other, to Engelhardzell, where thevalley becomes wider. We then pass three castles in succession on the left-Ranariedl, Marsbach, and Hagenbach-wherethe Danube forms an extraordinarily sharp bend, and is forcedto half its width by the encroachment of the mountains on bothsides, amongst which it froths and boils like a pent- up demon inROUTE VII. -LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 123the toils. Then past Ober and Untermühl on rivers ofthe samename, past the Castle of Neuhaus, a refuge during the Turkishinvasion, and the village of Neuhaus, where the country becomesflatter, past Aschach with the Castle of Schaumburg to Efferdingand Ottensheim, where the river is again hemmed in by anarrow defile, fortified to protect this passage toLINZ.See Route III. page 71.Leaving Linz, the Danube spreads out into a number of arms,intersected with islands and sand- banks, and takes up the Traunat Zizelau, opposite Steyeregg on the left. On one ofthe islandsstands the Castle of Spielberg, which was erected during the middle ages for the same reason as the Pfalz on the Rhine-for the purpose of levying toll on all passers by. We then pass themouths ofthe Enns, opposite the village of Mauthhausen; andshortly afterwards the Castle of Niederwallsee, standing on arock in the river, near the shore. Near Ardagger, the mountainsagain form a defile, and, shortly below the Castle of Greinberg,the rapids of Greiner- Schwall, after which they approach nearerand nearer to a gorge which narrows the river-bed to less thana fourth of its original width-a gorge which for wildness , grandeur, and romance, with its ancient castles and gloomy forests, isnot to be equalled by any scene in Europe. The culminatingpoint of beauty is formed by the island of Werth, which, withits ancient Castle of Werfenstein, divides the river into two arms,the northern of which is followed by the steamer, and formerlycontained the celebrated Strudel or whirlpool. We then cometo the Hausstein, another rock and castle in the middle of theriver. Between the island of Werth and Hausstein, the Wirbelwas formerly another of the dangers of the river, a whirlpool over60 feet in diameter, presenting the appearance of a funnel 4 feetdeep in the middle . Both the Strudel and the Wirbel have beenrendered harmless by modern science; but in the middle ages,in addition to their natural dangers, they attracted a band oflawless knights to erect their castles round about, in order to124 GUIDE TO TURKEY.levy black mail on all ships passing by. Thus, if the unluckyvoyager escaped the perils of Charybdis, he was sure to fall intothe hands of Scylla-the much less merciless power of theRaubritter. When the steamer has passed Hausstein we leavethe ruins of Sarmingstein on the left, Freienstein on the right,and arrive at Persenbeug, where the river gradually widens.Thence past the river and village of Ips, Sausenstein onthe right,and the village of Marbach, with the chapel of Maria Taferleon the hill above, to Gross Pechlarn on the right, and KleinPechlarn on the left. We then pass the ruins of Weideneck,the rock on which it stands rising immediately from the Danube,and Lubereck, both on the left, to MELK, the celebrated Benedictine monastery, one of the richest and best in Germany. BelowMelk the river is again contracted by the mountains, and againbegin a series of ruined castles, commencing with the Castleof Aggstein, formerly one of the strongest of all the robbercastles along the river. Then on the left come the Castles ofSPITZ and DURRENSTEIN, where Richard Cœur de Lion was imprisoned by Leopold ofAustria, 1192. There is another Dürrenstein in Styria, where he is also said to have been imprisoned;and the Trifels , not far from Worms, likewise shares the honour.The traditions of all three seem to be as well authenticated, noris there any cause for doubt. The Styrian Castle is on the routefrom Trieste to Vienna, so he may well have been lodged herefor a time; and it was certain that he was imprisoned at Trifelswhen he was brought before the Diet at Worms. Dürrensteinforms the eastern portal to the romantic part of the Danube,as Bingen does on the Rhine. Henceforth the country on bothsides is flat and uninteresting; and steaming past Stein, theMonastery of Gottweih, Tulln, the CASTLE OF GREIFENSTEIN,and Neuburg, we arrive at Nussdorf, the landing- place forVIENNA, for which, see Route III, page 72.ROUTE VIII . -LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. 125ROUTE VIII .London to Alexandria, by Sea direct,By the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers See .No. 7, Sec. B, page 7.Few will avail themselves of this Route, unless for the merepleasure of a sea voyage. For such the following hints may be of use. First, take your berth as near the centre and as farfrom the screw as possible; for not only will you feel the rollingand the pitching of the ship less , but also the vibration andbattering of the screw, when partly out of water. Secondly,always take the bottom berth, if possible, for the warmer air andunsavoury odours which often pervade a ship invariably ascend to the top. Regarding sea- sickness there is very little to besaid, for every constitution requires a separate remedy. It isbest, however, to let nature take its course, and avoid taking anything that might produce biliousness. Black coffee , good strongbeef tea with plenty of pepper in it, tea and dry toast, and meatrather burnt are the best things whilst suffering from the malady.Of specific remedies, 3 drops of creosote, taken every half-hour,is said to be the best.After leaving Southampton, the ship's course will in a greatmeasure depend upon the weather. Generally speaking, afterhaving once cleared the channel, no land is sighted till CapeFinisterre is approached, when the steamer keeps close to thecoast along the Bay of Vigo, past Oporto and the mouth of theDouro, and soon afterwards Lisbon and the Tagus. Then CapeSt. Vincent, the scene of the battle, Feb. 14, 1797, is rounded,and we enter the Bay of Cadiz, and see no land till we arrive offCape Trafalgar, where Nelson gained his victory, and lost hislife , Oct. 21, 1805. Then past Point Cornero and Point Europa to126 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Gibraltar.HOTELS: Mrs. Crosby's Club-house.The time during which the vessel remains for coaling willbest be employed by hiring a horse (3s. a day) , and scouringabout the town and visiting the ROCK. Especially worth seeingare-the Cathedral, SANTA TRINITA, the CASTELLO, TORREMOCHA, riddled with shot, and O'HARA'S TOWER.After leaving Gibraltar, the steamer passes close to the Africancoast, allowing a view ofALGIERS, then breasts Cape Ferro, pastthe islands of Le Sarelle, Galito, and Fratelli, round the promontory of the Seven Capes, with the Bay of Tunis and the site ofCarthage, to Cape Bon. Then the Isle of PANTELLARIA, 3,000feet above the water, forms a conspicuous object of the view,after leaving which no land is sighted till we arrive at Malta.PART II .THE MEDITERRANEAN.We have now brought the tourist to the various portals ofthe East to Vienna, Trieste, Venice, Ancona, Brindisi, Malta,and Marseille . Before proceeding any further, we will firstgive a slight sketch of some of the leading characteristics of thegreat highway to the East and the Levant-ofthe MediterraneanSea. Of all inland European seas, there is none which receivesso great an amount of water from the rivers pouring into it asthe Mediterranean; nor is there any that loses so much byevaporation. Many have an idea that the continual supply ofvast volumes of fresh water would also make the sea fresh; but,so far from that being the case, it is slightly the contrary-theMediterranean containing rather an excess of salt as comparedwith the waters of the Atlantic. For it must be rememberedthat not only do the rivers bring down an immense quantity ofsalt and other mineral matter, but that there is a continualcurrent setting in from the Atlantic though the Straits ofGibraltar, which likewise contributes its proportion of salinematter. Thus the matter for wonder is, " What becomes of allthis salt? "—for ages and ages it has been accumulating, yet thewaters of the Mediterranean are but slightly salter than those ofthe Atlantic. The wonder will become still greater whenwe takethe following facts into consideration:The whole of the running water in Europe corresponds inforce to about 300 million horse power-a tremendous amount ofpower, it is true; but when we remember the mighty volumes ofwater rushing down the falls at Schaffhausen, the Trollhätta, andthe impetuous torrents of the Alps, we can easily reconcile the128 GUIDE TO TURKEY.truth with the grandeur of the statement. But, as in manythings, noise and visible force will often impress the humanmind with a greater sense of power than that which proceedsquietly, silently, and invisibly to work. The entire ocean, takenat an average depth of 12,000 feet, contains 24 billion cubic milesofwater, and would take all the waters of the rivers in the worldfor 40,000 years to fill . Now the whole power of the runningwater is not 1-800th of the force which raises this water invapour to the clouds. The heat of the sun, which is here theagent, necessary for the evaporation of the ocean daily takingplace corresponds to the astounding force of 10 billion horsepower—an average of 79 horse power to every square acre.With this immense loss of water in the Mediterranean, increased by its situation and the scorching winds of Africa, itis natural that the level of the sea should become considerablydepressed, which depression must be made good by the supplyof the rivers, and, if that be not sufficient, from the adjacent seas.Such is actually the case; and there is a considerable currentflowing in from the Atlantic in the West, and the Black Sea inthe East through the Dardanelles. The northern position ofthe Black Sea prevents as great an evaporation as in the Mediterranean; still the outward flow is by no means as great as theinflux from the various rivers and springs .Now, with this continual supply and exhaustion, the questionis, What becomes of all the mineral and saline matter which isleft behind? —for it is well known that pure water alone is evaporated. There is only one reply. It is deposited , precipitated,or held in strong solution. But the surface water of the Mediterranean is scarcely any salter than the Atlantic. The solutionof the riddle is however apparent, when we learn the fact thatthe water taken up from a depth of670 fathoms contains just fourtimes as much salt as that on the surface. What would be theproportion at a greater depth we have no means of knowing, but,in all probability, it would increase in the same or even a greaterratio. The bottom of the sea is most likely as deep as the Alps arehigh; in fact, at a depth of 6,000 feet the bottom has not been attained . We have therefore no method of ascertaining whether saltTHE MEDITERRANEAN. 129is actually precipitated at that depth, or crystallised or transformed into some other body by chemical or volcanic processes .So much for the salt: now for the other solid matter broughtdown bythe rivers, or upheaved by volcanic or terramotal agencies. No one who has travelled through Switzerland and Italycan have failed to observe and wonder at the quantity of débrisbrought down from the mountains by various rivers . The Ticino,the Adda, the Adige, are renowned for the devastation they produce, with the amount of stones and detritus brought down bytheir denudation of the rocks above. The Tagliamento (as wehave seen, Route I, page 52) has so increased the height of its bedbythe constant accumulation of débris that the villages of Codroipoand Corno are 30 feet below its bed, which, where the line crossesit, is no less than 800 feet wide. We maytherefore look for a greatincrease of land at the embouchures ofthe chief rivers, and furtherdeposits of sediment either along various parts of the coast or atthe bottom of the sea. We commence with the delta of theRhone. This river leaves the greater part of its solid matter, ofwhich it denudes the rocks along its course, either in its valley,where the enormous heaps brought down by the torrents assumethe character of hills , or at its delta in the Lake of Geneva. Butthe Arve, coming down from the slopes of Mont Blanc, immediately joins it with its wild impetuous torrent impregnated withsand and sediment, and in succession it receives the waters ofthe Saône and Durance, with numberless other tributaries, eachcontributing its quota of solid matter to such an extent as todiscolour the waters of the Mediterranean for some distance .The delta commences at Arles, where the river divides into twobranches; and its advance is demonstrated by the followinginteresting facts1. Part of the ancient Roman Road from Nismes to Aix makesa great bend between Begiers and Ugernum, which would nothave been necessary if the present delta had not been then eithersea or marsh.2. Mesua Collis, which Pomponius Mela described as only justslightly connected with the mainland, is at present, under thename of Mese, some miles inland.K130 GUIDE TO TURKEY.3. Psalmodi, an island in 815, is now seven miles distantfrom the shore.4. Notre Dame des Ports, a harbour in 898, is now 3 milesinland.5. The Tower of Tignaux, which was built on the coast in 1737,is now one kilometre distant from it.6. The towns and villages to the north of the Roman Road areall of Celtic names; but those lying to the south are all of Latinor French derivation.The deposit of the Rhone is remarkable, inasmuch as it doesnot consist merely of sand in the shape of sand banks, butactually of solid rocks, of which a proof may be seen in a cannonin the Museum of Montpellier perfectly incrusted by calcareousrock. Numbers of the springs and rivers falling into the Rhoneare highly charged with carbonate of lime; and when the waters,on their entrance into the sea, spread out on the surface byreason of their lighter specific weight, the evaporation inducedbythe sun causes them to abandon their solid matter, which is thusprecipitated in much the same manner as in the case of a commonkettle, which soon becomes incrusted with the sediment of limecontaining water.The delta of the Po, which drains the southern and easternslope of the Alps and the northern sides of the Apennines,has advanced with a surprising rapidity. From the mouth ofthe Tsonzo to Rimini, the land has encroached upon the AdriaticGulf to an extent of nearly 20 miles within as many centuries;so that former ports, such as Adria, Spina, and Ravenna,are now miles distant from the shore. The deposit of allthe rivers falling into the Adriatic Gulf, on the westernside, consists, with the exception of the Tagliamento (page52) , of soft mud and fine sand; and, in consequenceof the inland position of, and absence of currents in, the gulf,the upper end is very shallow-not more than 12 feet(20 fathoms) in depth. The lower end, however, becomesmuch deeper; and when we consider that round Parma andother parts of the peninsula the tertiary marl beds are of athickness of 2,000 feet and more, it is easy to comprehend how1THE MEDITERRANEAN. 131the depth of the Adriatic in former times quite equalled that ofthe Mediterranean, where, as, for instance, near Nice, we alsofind strata of conglomerate of over 1,000 feet thick, formed undersimilar circ*mstances. Similar phenomena are to be observedon the eastern shores of the Adriatic, at the delta formed bythe Narenta, which has rolled down its deposit from the mountains of the Herzegowina, and formed a district now occupiedat the apex of the triangle by Fort Opus. The original mouthwas, beyond all doubt, over ten miles inland; for along thewhole coast the precipitous mountains dive as deep down intothe waters as they rise above them. From the annexed sketchit will be seen that the dotted space circ*mscribed by the lettersMelcovichNarentaa, b, c, d, e, has gradually been filled up by the sediment anddébris of the Narenta. The author passed through the valleyand delta in 1867, in March, when the whole of the districtwas totally submerged, with the exception of the higher parts;and such is every year the case, but each time in a less degree,as the sediment accumulates.Coming now to the coasts of Asia Minor and Syria, we shallfind an extraordinary encroachment of the land upon the sea,arising from two different causes, the one of which is theconstant accretion of deltas, aided by the current which setsin from the Straits of Gibraltar, and the sediment carried alongwith this current and depositing it where interrupted . The newland formed on the southern shores of Asia Minor is firm, hardK 2132 GUIDE TO TURKEY.stone, composed of travertine and carbonate of lime, which, inmany instances, entirely chokes up the river with its own delta,and forces it to seek another course. An instance of this will befound at the mouth of the Pyramus-the present Djihan. Herewhat was formerly the river- course, or one arm of it, runningalong a small range of hills , has become blocked up by itsown sediment, and forced by it to take another course to theeast.A.B. Old arm.A.C. New arm.A.B.C. Possibly a delta.AdanaSarusMissisAPyramusFurther south we come to the ancient Seleucia and the Orontes.The port is now over a mile from the sea, and completelyfilled up with alluvial soil. Tyre and Sidon are both far inland, that is to say, the ruins of the ancient towns, as well asother places south of Mount Carmel; and as there are no riversto account for this increase, we must look for another explanation; and we shall find one, too, that has raised very gravedoubts in the minds of anxious speculators and no less anxiousengineers. It is the current that sets in from Gibraltar, eatingaway the northern coast of Africa; and the delta of the Nile thatdeposits its cargo of sediment on the coast of Palestine and theIsthmus of Suez, which, in the opinion of many eminent men,has been entirely produced by this current and the sediment ofthe Nile. It is this continual accretion of drift that renders theworks at Port Said, for the canal, so necessary, in the shape ofa solid dyke or mole, to prevent the mouth of the canal frombeing sanded up; and it is a very serious question whether anylength of dyke will effectually prevent the sediment from siltinground. Many arms of the Nile delta have been choked upTHE MEDITERRANEAN. 133in this manner; the Pelusian and the Mendesian have disappeared, and the Phatnitic and Sebenitic become so altered astotally to differ from the accounts given of themby the ancients.In the same way, the Isthmus of Suez has doubled its widthsince the times of Herodotus, who speaks of Heroopolis as beingon the coast, whereas the remains are now midway between thetwo seas; and Suez, as late as 1541, was a port capacious enoughto accommodate the fleet of Soliman II.Such are the chief Neptunian characteristics of the Mediterranean we will now devote a few moments to its volcanic andterramotal aspects.There are three chief volcanic centres in the Mediterranean,and one in the Archipelago. What connection, if any at all , existsbetween these centres is , as yet, merely a matter of conjecture;but it is well worth considering the fact that, when Etna isquiescent, Vesuvius is eruptive, and vice versa. The threecentres are Vesuvius, Etna, and Stromboli. In the Archipelago, Santorin. The history of Vesuvius would fill volumesalone; the same may be said of Etna. Of Stromboli, thesmallest of the three, it is worth mentioning that, when both itsbig brothers are resting from their labours , it commences dutyas safety-valve to let off the steam that would otherwise disturbtheir slumbers; and the lava that has been constantly boiling inits crater for the last 2,000 years at last runs over to ease themor itself.Another peculiarly active volcanic centre is the district in theArchipelago where the disturbing agencies culminate in theisland of Santorin, which, with Therasia, Hiera, and Nea Kameni,form the irregular- truncated cone of a mountain, rising in Santorin to a height of 800 feet above, and sinking precipitously1,000 feet below the sea.In 1866 a fresh eruption brought an addition to the south ofNea Kameni, and caused the northern end to sink so considerablyas to immerse the mole, and submerge a number of houses .The first historical disturbance took place 240 B.C., whenTherasia was rent from Santorin by an earthquake; the second,196 B.C., when Hiera appeared, doubtless as a new cone, part of134 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Therasia0AspronisiNeaKameniHieroMiera KameniLittleEliasGreat Eliasthe whole mountain. In 19 A.D., Thea appeared, and joinedHiera. Then several minor bouleversem*nts took place, and in1640 there was a general upheaval of the submarine basis. In1707-1709, Nea Kameni rose in an eruption, forming a cone556 feet high; and, finally, the eruption of 1866, to which wehave alluded, produced an addition to the south side of Nea Kameni.With these volcanic agencies at work, it is but natural topresuppose a prevalency of earthquakes; and it is notoriouswhat vast convulsions have taken place along the volcanic lines.Drawing these lines from W. to E., commencing at Lisbon, theypass N. and S. of Sicily to Vesuvius, Stromboli, and Etna;thence to the Ionian Islands, Santorin, Cyprus, Antioch, Tiberias,and the Dead Sea.Such are the leading aqueous and igneous characteristics oftheMediterranean. Its aërial idiosyncrasies are no less capriciousand phenomenal. The chief winds are:The MISTRAL, N. W., Avignon; penetrates to Sardinia.The BORA, N., Trieste and Istria; to Corfu.The SIROCCO, S. , Africa; to the heart of Switzerland.The strength of the Bora is such, that in many places on theTHE MEDITERRANEAN. 135Istrian and Dalmatian coast the roads have to be protected fromDuring its fury, no one is able toexposed to it. In Switzerland theit by massive stone walls.venture where he would beSirocco is named the Föhn.Of fish in the Mediterranean, the chief are sharks, porpoises ,tunny, and last, but not least, in spite of their miniatureproportions, sardines. Oysters are scarce, on the whole.Whilst considering the natural features ofthe Mediterranean,it will not be amiss to give a thought to its mercantile aspects.The riches of the great cities along its shores in former days,the magnificence and welfare of Genoa and Venice, grew andincreased with the importance of the trade to the Levant andthe far Indies . Their decline is solely attributable to the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope passage, doing away with an expensive and tedious overland passage, rendered dangerous by thecupidity of therobber-knights of the middle ages, and the trademonopolised by some of the great merchant princes, such as theFuggers of Augsburg, etc. But now a new passage has againbeen discovered, which will undoubtedly restore the brokenfortunes of the Mediterranean towns, or create new centres ofcommerce-the Suez Canal. Bythis route the Mediterranean willagain become the highway to the far East; the dormant energiesof the Italian and Greek towns will awake, and, with theadvantages of railways diverging to all parts of Europe, willinaugurate a competition against which England, as far asEurope is concerned, will labour in vain, at any rate in colonialHamburg, Rotterdam, and Antwerp will have to cedetheir privileges to Brindisi, Trieste, and Marseilles. Alexandriawill increase to the importance its imperial founder predictedfor it; and it will remain for England to be wise in time, andcreate a still shorter and quicker passage to the East, viâAlexandretta, Aleppo, and the Persian Gulf. Unless that bedone, " Finis Angliæ in mare Mediterranea! "wares.136 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE IX.Trieste to Constantinople.ON leaving Trieste, the steamer proceeds either along theItalian or the Istrian and Dalmatian shores, as the wind mayenforce. The places along the Dalmatian coast will be treatedof hereafter. The first stopping-place is CORFU, wherethe boat takes in coal. The entrance to the island, withits Citadel and One- Gun Battery, near the spot where Ulyssessuffered shipwreck, is very fine; and a walk through the townor a drive up to the citadel, if time permit, will be an agreeablechange. We then pass Paxos, St. Maura, Cephalonia, andZante, cross the Gulfs of Arcadia and Coron, round CapeMatapan, past Cerigo and Cape Malla, when the next landsighted will be Milo; then between Serpho and Siphanto toSYRA, our second coaling- station. The time during which thesteamer remains here will be best employed by ascending thehill, round which the tower is built, to the monastery on thesummit, whence a magnificent view will be obtained . LeavingSyra, we pass between Andro and Tino, and, after a long stretchof sea, sight Mytilene and Tenedos on the right and Lemnos onthe left. We now approach theLEFT HAND,DARDANELLES.On theWe perceive, on the S.E. extremity ofthe promontory, the little village of Aktasch; in themiddle, Schahim Tabiassi, andRIGHT HAND,We see, just before entering the straits, the town of JENI- SCHEHR, on the ancient Promontory of Sigeum , which willbe easily recognised by the windmills on the top and thetwo TUMULI further on below,supposed to be the tombs ofAchilles and Patroclus.ROUTE IX.-TRIESTE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 137KUM KALEH, or Château d'Asie, fortress. A littlefurther on, we come to themouth of the Mendereh, the ancient Scamander, aboutwhich there once raged a fierySEDIL BAHR, or Châteaud'Europe, with the ruins of Elæus further on, near Eskihissarlyk, on the eastern point of the bay, N.E. of Kum Kaleh.dispute, regarding the epithet Homer bestowed uponthe sea atit* embouchure, πλaτùs ‘Hλλýσπоvтоs, the " broad Hellespont,"whereas the sea is here anything but broad. Some contendedthat the phrase was applied to the river; but it seems to begenerally acknowledged now, that the reading should be " saltHellespont. " Aristotle uses λarùs in this sense threetimes, in Meteor. , lib. ii . Byron says: " The wrangling aboutthis epithet, the broad Hellespont, ' or ' the boundless Hellespont, ' whether it means one or the other, or what it means atall, has been beyond all possibility of detail. I have evenheard it disputed on the spot; and, not foreseeing a speedy conclusion to the controversy, amused myself by swimming acrossit, and probably may again before the point is settled . Probably Homer had the same idea of distance as a coquette has oftime, and, when he talks of boundless, means half a mile; asthe latter, when she says ' eternal attachment, ' simply specifiesthree weeks." The latter solution is most reasonable; for, withthe exaggerativeness of all Orientals, the Arabs speak of the Nileas the Bahr Kebir, or great ocean; the same of the Jordan,etc.To the east of the Scamander, with the plains of Troy stretching inland, the Greeks had their naval station during the siegeof Troy. Since then, the sediment of the river has filled thesea and advanced the land to more than six miles . The moststriking object is the conical mound rising above the elevatedterrain in front, supposed to be the tomb of Esyetes, with thesnow-capped range of Mount Ida in the background. Furtheron we come to the Rhætian Promontory, on the east sideofwhich rises the Aianteum, or Tumulus enclosing the tombof Ajax.138 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Tenir, small village, a little inland.Kilid Bahr, fortified with thebattery, Namasigja Tabia.Maïdos, with the bay formedby the Kalkma Dagh (daghmountains) and Mersin Dagh, tothe east of which, past Boghaly Tabia, are the ruins of SESTOS,where Hero was wont nightlyto await her faithful Leander,till he was ultimately drowned.Eren-koi, or Giaour-koi, on the hill.Ruins of Dardanos.Kepes Burun, or, Cape Kepes.On the eastern extremity of the bay liesSultanie Kaleh, and the castle ,Tschanak Kanesi, fortified. The town is the seat of a curiousearthenware manufacture,roughly gilt. Men are sureto come on board to sell someof their ware, which is oftenof really antique form.A little way on, we come to Naghera Burun and Naghera Kalesi, with the remainsof ABYDOS and the Tower of Leander, the scene of Leander'sswimming-exploits to Sestos opposite. Byron and Lieut.Ekenhead both swan across thestraits.WRITTEN AFTER SWIMMING FROM SESTOS TO ABYDOS.If, in the month of dark December,Leander, who was nightly wont (What maid will not the tale remember?)To cross thy stream, broad Helles- pont;If, when the wintry tempest roared,He sped to Hero, nothing loth,And thus of old thy current poured,Fair Venus, how I pity both!For me, degenerate modern wretch,Though in the genial month of May,Mouth of the Egospotamos,where the Spartan general,Lysander, won the battle that ended the Peloponnesian War.It is now called Karaova Su by the Turks.GALLIPOLI, a little past Lap- saki, has risen into importance since the Crimean war. Thenit only numbered 15,000; nowMy dripping limbs I faintly stretch,And think I've done a feat to-day.Yet since he crossed the rapid tide,According to the doubtful story,To woo-and- Lord knows what beside,And swam for love, as I for glory-"Twere hard to say who fared the best;Sad mortals, thus the gods still plague you!He lost his labour, I myjest;For he was drowned, and I've theague.LAPSAKI, the site of theancient Lampsacus, and formerly celebrated for its wine,which was exported even as faras to Aleppo. The wine here,as well as in the rest of theDardanelles, is called Vino dellaLege, because it is mostlygrownbythe Jews, who are forbiddenbythe law to adulterate it, andROUTE IX. -TRIESTE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 139it has some 60,000 inhabitants .It was the first European town that fell into the hands of theTurks; and when the Emperorof Constantinople, John Paläologus, heard of its loss , he comforted himself, saying,"Well, I have lost a jar ofwine and a pigstye, " alluding to the cellars and magazinesbuilt by Justinian, of which the remains are still to be seen.The island of MARMORA,whence the sea takes its name,is just opposite Cyzicum.SILIVRI, town of Thrace,will, most likely, not be visible.Jedikule-koi.Jedikule Burun, with theruins of an ancient mole just before it.PSAMATIA KAPUSI.JENI KAPUSI and KUM KAPUSI, with ruins of an old mole.MOSQUE OF SULTAN ACHMED.MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA.JENI SERAI.Serai Burun. Roundingthiscape, we anchor off Galata, insight of the new bridge over the Golden Horn.it is therefore fondly believedto be pure.Leaving Lapsaki, no placeof interest is passed until we come to the peninsula of Cyzicum, withtheruins of the ancienttown. Formerly it wasisland, connected by a bridge,the remains of which, still visible, have intercepted thesand carried by the current,and formed an isthmus.GULF OFGemlik.MUDANIA,anorIsland of Kalolimni and BosBurun, Cape Bos ( Poseidon) at the entrance of the Gulf ofMudania.GULF OF ISMID, with the PRINCES ISLANDS.Moda Burun.Greek Church on the hill.KADIKOI, village of the Kadi,the site of the ancient Chalcedon.Destroyed by fire in 1860, but since then rebuilt. The eastern end of the bay is occupied bythe military hospital and the OBELISK, erected to the memoryof those British soldiers that fell in the Crimean war.MOSQUE OF SELINIEH.SCUTARI, with the mosquesof ESKI VALIDE DJAMI and JENI DJAMI. The tower offthe point is the Kiss Kalesi, or Leander's Tower.Constantinople.140 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE X.Marseilles to Constantinople.ON leaving Marseilles, it will entirely depend on the weatherwhich course the steamer takes. Sometimes they pass to thenorth of Corsica, and then sail S. between Corsica and Elba andthe islands of Pianosa and Monte Christo to Messina; butthe usual route is to leave the coast of France off the Ilesd'Hyères, and steer straight for the Straits of Bonifacio.After weighing anchor, the steamer remains for some timeclose to the coast past La Ciotat, where the Messageries Impériales have their engine and shipbuilding works, and TOULON,where we gradually steam S.E. , the Alps fading away slowly in thehazy distance; and no land is sighted till we arrive in the Corsicanand Sardinian waters, and enter the Straits of Bonifacio. Onthe left we have, on the head of the bay, the town of BONIFACIOin Corsica, on the left Cape Testa. We then pass the islandof Madalena-the ancient Ilva, and largest island in the straits.The church of SantaMaria possesses a relic of Nelson, in the shapeof silver candlesticks and crucifix, with the device Nelson andBronte. Of the harbour, Nelson said it was worth fifty Maltaseasy to get in and out in all winds. To the S.E. lies Caprera,the island given to Garibaldi by Victor Emmanuel—not muchmore than a barren rock. Put not your faith in princes! Onepart of the land here bears a striking resemblance to a hugebear. Leaving the straits behind, we sight no land till we seethe Liparian Isles rising out of the water, with the cone ofSTROMBOLI Waving its flag of smoke as a welcome. Soon afterwards we enter the Straits of Messina, between the famed Scyllaand Charybdis, -"Incidit in Scyllam qui vult vitare Charybdim;"and soon enter the harbour of MESSINA, Opposite Reggio, ontheROUTE X.-MARSEILLES TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 141Italian side, where the traveller will most likely go on shoreand dine on terra ferma, for which we recommend Kellermann's

• Hotel Victoria, in the Corsa. Messina is a clean, well-kept,

and prosperous town. One of its national trades is the cutting and setting of coral into brooches, pins, &c. Lava is also used.The Cathedral, near the southern end of the Corso, is worth avisit. The central door is a fine specimen of carving. Itpossesses a unique curiosity, in the shape of a sacra littera," orautograph letter of the Virgin translated into Greek from theoriginal Hebrew, and dated from Jerusalem-" Hierosolymisanno filii nostri xlii.”66Soon after leaving Messina the magnificent peak of MOUNTETNA rises to view-one of the most beautifully formed mountainsin Europe. The entrance to the Val di Bove can easily beseen from deck. Of this valley, Sir Charles Lyell says: —“ Letthe reader picture to himself a large amphitheatre, five miles indiameter, and surrounded on three sides by precipices from 2,000to 3,000 feet in height. If he has beheld that most picturesquescene in the chain of the Pyrenees, the celebrated " Cirqueof Gavarnie, " he may form some conception of the magnificentcircle of precipitous rocks which inclose, on three sides, the greatplain of the Val di Bove. This plain has been deluged by repeated streams of lava; and though it appears almost level whenviewed from a distance, it is in fact more uneven than the surfaceof the most tempestuous sea. " The height of Etna is 10,874 ft.The chief eruptions, of which there have been over sixty, werethose of 1669, when a stream ran pastCatania and over part ofthetown wall, where it congealed into a solid cascade (which is stillto be seen) 60 ft. high, of 1792, and of 1832.At the southern foot, on the sea-shore, we see CATANIA, thestarting- place for the ascent of Etna. Then comes Cape SantaCroce and SYRACUSE, built on a low peninsula, the former capitalof Greek Sicily, and containing in the vicinity some of the mostinteresting ruins and remains of Greek power in Europe. Itwas the birth- place of Theocritus, Eschylus, and Anacreon.Pindar lived here; and here St. Paul stayed three days onhis way to Rome (Acts xxviii. 12)142 GUIDE TO TURKEY.After losing sight of Sicily, the first land we make wilbe the shores of Greece, and perhaps Candia, when weround Cape Matapan and Cape Malla, and steer N. through thegulf, and past the Island of Egina to the Piraus, the port ofAthens. The hill on the E. shore affords a good view of the Akropolis. It takes an hour's ride up to Athens; but, now the railway has been finished, it may be possible for the tourist to runup to the Greek capital while the steamer takes in coal. Theship moored in the midst of the entrance to the harbour isthe hangman's dwelling-place: he is not allowed to live onshore. The island to the left on entering the harbour is Salamis;and on leaving we see Mount Hymettus on the left, and roundCape Sunium, with the remains of the temple of Minerva.We then steer between the islands of Makronisi, the ancientHelena (so called because Helen is said to have landed hereafter her expulsion from Troy) , on the left, and Zea, theancient KEO , KOƐ, or KIA, on the left. On this island are theremains of the city of Ioulis, the birth-place of Simonides,Bacchylides, of Erasistratus, and Ariston.Ἐκ δὲ τῆς Ἰουλίδος ὅ, τε Σιμωνίδης ἦν ὁ μελοποιδὸς, καὶ βακχυλίδηςἀδελφιδοῦς ἐκείνου · καὶ μετὰ ταῦτα Ερασίστρατος ὁ ἱατρὸς, καὶ τῶνἐκ τοῦ περιπάτου φιλοσόφων Αρίστων, ὁ του βορυσθενίτου βίωνος Inλwrns. -Strabo, Geog. , lib. x. , p. 710, Oxon. 1807.Erasistratus was the famous physician who discovered, by themotion of his pulse, the love which Antiochus had conceivedfor his mother-in-law. He was the grandson of Aristotle.We then pass the entrance to the Canal, and the southernend of Negroponte, Cape Montelo, the island of Andro on theright, and steer N.E., the island of Skyro in the distance tothe left, and in a few hours make Mytilene on the right andLemnos on the left. From here to Constantinople, see RouteIX, page 136.ROUTE XI.-MALTA TO ALEXANDRIA. 143ROUTE XI.From Malta to Alexandria.THE route from London to Malta by sea has been described. SeeRoute VIII, page 125. From Marseilles it is the same as that ofthe Messageries Impériales as far as the coasts of Corsica andSardinia. AJACCIO, the birth-place of Napoleon, is distinctlyvisible. We then steer S. , and afterwards E., past the southernshores of Sicily, where we perceive MARSALA, of bibulousrepute, and the light-house of Gozo, toLa Valetta, Malta.HOTELS: ** Dunsford's, 8s . per day. * Hotel Vittoria,Strada Reale: B. B. 4s . 6d.; D. 4s .; Tea, 1s . 6d.; per day, 7s.Valet de place, 8s. per day. Horses, 15s. per day; carriages,£1.BOOKSELLER: -Mr. Muir, 247, Strada Reale agent forBradshaw. Here also may be had the Tauchnitz edition ofBritish authors, 1s. 6d. per volume. The steamer generallyremains here six hours, which time will be used to bestadvantage by visiting the *Fortifications, the Piazza Regina(fine view) , the new Opera House, andThe *CHURCH OF ST. JOHN, dating from 1580, and containingthe monuments and tombs ofthe Knights of Malta.144 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Valetta will be sure to please the traveller. The streets areclean and well kept; those leading from the sea are nothing butlong flights of steps, teeming with a crowd of all nationalities .The women wear the black Spanish mantilla over their headand shoulders, beneath which their bright eyes flash darker still ,and the traveller feels as if he would like to spend his lifehere; but after very few days he would get heartily tired of it.Valetta is a great place for lace, filagree-work, and stone carving.The stone generally used here is peculiarly soft, hardening onexposure to the atmosphere. It is most curious to see themasons at work, cutting the rough blocks into shape with broadknives, like cheese. Everything is dear at Malta. Leaving theharbour, we round a point on which it is said that St. Paul waswrecked on his journey to Rome (Acts xxviii. 1); and having oncelost sight of land, we see no more till we arrive off the lowcoasts ofAlexandria.ROUTE XII.-CORFU TO ALEXANDRIA. 145ROUTE XII .Corfu to Alexandria.LEAVING Corfu ( see Route IX) , we pass the Ionian Islands,and have a fine view of the Sphakian Mountains, in thenotorious Candia, of whose inhabitants St Paul says, " One ofthemselves, a prophet of their own, said, The Cretans are alwayliars, evil beasts, slow bellies. This witness is true. " (Paul toTitus, i . 12, 13. ) As it was true then, so is it now, and evenmore so. We then leave Candia on the left, and sight no land tillwe arrive atAlexandria,146 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XIII .Vienna to Constantinople, via the Danube, Rustzuk, andVarna.THE usual route followed from Vienna to Constantinople is byrail to Basiasch, by Presburg and Pesth, thence to Rustzuk,where another railway carries the traveller to Varna, whencethe steamer brings him, in 17 hours, to the City of the GoldenHorn. The scenery on the Danube, with the exception of twodistricts-i.e . , Gran to Maros, and Alt Moldova to TurnSeverin-is monotonous and uninteresting. The broad riverrolls darkly and sluggishly along, in some places through reedyand willow-fringed banks, in others foaming over a broad expanse of rocky shallows, with always the same dreary monotonyof flat plain on both sides. Still, for those who travel for restand relaxation, a tour downthe Danube will have similar charmsto a journey up the Nile. They can thoroughly enjoy the “ dolcefar niente." The steamers are well fitted up, and conducted inan excellent manner. There is always company on board towhile away the time, and the cooking is good. The autumn,however, is not a time adapted for this route, as the Danube isthen very low, and necessitates an endless transhipment tosmaller vessels, and bone-rattling excursions in springless waggons over roads of a very mediocre calibre, to say the best ofthem. The best way to manage is to take a ticket either inLondon, at the Agency of the Danube Steam Navigation Company, in London- wall ( 81) , or in Vienna, and then go by rail toPresburg; from Presburg to Pesth by steamer; from Pesth toBasiasch, railway again. Thetickets issued by the Danube SteamNavigation Co. are valid for either route; the fares include livingon board the boats-no matter what time be consumed on thevoyage. If, however, the tourist dislike the trouble of descend-ROUTE XIII. -VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 147ing from the train at Presburg, and embarking there, he hadbest proceed straight on to Pesth and Basiasch. He will onlylose one short tract of fine scenery, which is greatly surpassedby the district between Moldova and Orsova. The station forPesth is the KAISER FERDINANDS NORDBAHN, one of the mostmagnificent and most richly ornamented buildings in Vienna.The whole of the country from Vienna to Basiasch is peculiarlyuninteresting, as far as scenery is concerned.The Danube.From Vienna to Rustzuk and Ismail.On leavingVienna ( see Route III, page 72) , the river traversesthe low plains of the March, called the Marchfeld, the scene ofNapoleon's exploits at Wagram, Aspern, and Esslingen, anddiverging into a number of arms and branches, intersected withislands and sand-banks, winds along through its willow- fringedchannel, past Ebersdorf on the right, and the Island of Lobauon the left, where Napoleon formed his fortified camp in 1809,to Fisch-am-End, a small village on the Fischa. We then passRegelsbrunn and Petronell to Deutsch- Altenburg, a wateringplace, named by the Romans Aqua Pannonica. It derives itsname from its ancient citadel, where, in 1843, John MartinStella wrote its history and description; whence it appears that,as a bulwark, it guarded the only approach from Hungary intoGermany. He says: " Loco præterea tam necessario et opportuno,ut nulla alia per regiones illas via, ex Hungaria in Germaniam,nisi sub arcis conspectu, imo adeo sub ipsis portis pateat."Thence past Hainburg, near which, at ROHRAU, Haydn wasborn. All these places on the right. On the left, after passingHainburg, we arrive off the mouth of the March, guarded bythe Castle ofTheben and the Nonnenthurm, and in about half anhour's time lie to atPresburg,the former capital of Hungary.HOTELS: -*Grüner Baum; Goldene Sonne; Schwan; RotherOchs.Presburg, though a very pleasing, clean-looking town, has noL 2148 GUIDE TO TURKEY.thing whatever to attract the tourist. It is a town. The only place of any historical interest is the Königsberg, on the left bank ofthe Danube, which, though called the King's Mountain, is notmore than 14 ft. high, and derives its royalty from the ceremonyperformed here at every coronation, when the Emperor ofAustria, after he is crowned King of Hungary, rides in state toits summit, and waves his sword towards the four points of thecompass, as a symbol of his intention to protect the countryfrom all enemies.Leaving Presburg, we again pass through a flat, uninhabited,uninteresting country, till we arrive past the entrance of theRaab, onthe right, at Gönyö and Acs, and, shortly afterwards, atthe celebrated fortress of Komorn, founded by Mathias Corvinus, King of Hungary, and still a virgin fortress . Thence toTATA, or DOTIS, with a palace belonging to Count Esterhazy, inthe cellars of which there is a barrel almost rivalling the greattun at Heidelberg in size, and possessing, moreover, this advantageover its rival, that it is generally full, with 34,900 gallons ofwine. The scenery now slightly improves, and we arrive offthe mouth of the Gran, with the town of Gran opposite , crownedbythe Cathedral and Episcopal Palace. The Cathedral is wortha visit; it is very richly ornamented, and possesses somefine frescoes, with an altar-piece by Hess. For eighty yearsGran was in the power of the Turks, until it was given up tothe Duke of Lorraine, 1683.Leaving Gran, the river is entirely surrounded by mountains,at least in appearance, presenting the picture of a lake, withGran at the one end and VISSEGRAD at the other, formerlythe favoured residence of Mathias Corvinus, who, like SanCarlo in after-ages, cultivated these barren rocks, on which theremains of his palace are still to be seen, into a spot equallingthe Borromean Isles in beauty, until it was ravaged anddestroyed by the Turks in 1529.Sultan Soliman, the leader of the expedition in these times,forms a parallel on the Danube to Louis XIV. on the Rhine, alldevastations committed by the French monarch being reproducedby his infidel compeer.ROUTE XIII. -VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 149Shortly after leaving Vissegrad, the river turns due south, and,passing WAITZEN, with its Cathedral and Episcopal Palace,we arrive at ALT- OFEN, with the remains of a Roman amphitheatre, and an aqueduct which is still used. Thence, a fewminutes bring us , past long rows of water-mills moored in thestream, toPesth and Buda.HOTELS: * Erzherzog Stephan; Hotel Tiza; Hotel del'Europe.Pesth is the present capital of the kingdom of Hungary, and,in spite of its antiquity, is a completely modern town . Thereis nothing worthy of note in it, except the Neugebäude, animmense building, constructed in 1786, and now used for barracksand as an artillery depôt. The NATIONAL MUSEUM was foundedby Count Széchenyi, and contains a very valuable LIBRARY andNUMISMATIC COLLECTION, which, as well as the zoological andmineral collections, all relate to Hungary.The bridge connecting Pesth and Buda was built by Mr. Clark,the constructor of Hammersmith Bridge, and was severely testedon its opening by the alternate advance and retreat of theAustrians and Hungarians in 1849, during which it was passedby 100,000 men and over 350 pieces of artillery.BUDA itself is the most interesting of the two towns, and iscrowned by its Citadel, between which and the Blocksberg the oldtown stretches itself out. Here the traveller will first makethe acquaintance of some bonâ fide Turkish Baths, situated atthe foot of the Blocksberg. The chief one (there are three) isstill used, and is close to the bridge. A second, about a milefurther, is close to an old Turkish fortress built on the water'sedge, and now doing duty as a mill, overlooked by a real TurkishWely, or tomb of a Moslem Santon, which is still sometimesvisited by pious pilgrims from the Land of the Crescent.There were formerly no less than twenty- seven mosques,erected by the Turks during their possession of Buda from 1541 to 1686.Travellers wishing to solace themselves on board the steamer150 GUIDE TO TURKEY.with a glass of generous wine, should lay in a small stock ofTokay and Menescher Ausbruch.Just below Pesth the Danube is divided into two armsby an island over twenty miles in length, with an expanse of flat,swampy ground on the left, and the arms of the Platten- See ata distance on the right. At Adonny the last vestige of highground disappears, and no place of any importance lies on itsbanks till we come to FÖLDVAR, where there are some considerablesturgeon fisheries and factories of isinglass and caviar.Eighteen miles lower down PAKS is reached, and the river, flowing S.S.E. , makes a bend, thirteen miles further on, to the W.,then E. and W. again to TOLNA, within nine miles of whichto the W. commences an arm of the Platten- See; and twelvemiles to the S. lies SZEXARD, where one of the best Hungarianred wines is grown. Here the Danube winds along in a tortuous fashion to BAJA, and thence in a tolerable straight courseto MOHACS, celebrated for the battle fought here in 1526 bySoliman against Lewis II. , when the independence of Hungarywas annihilated for 160 years. Below Mohacs the Danube formsa series of contortions and sinuosities, rivalling the Labyrinthin their intricacies, into one of which the canal flows, connectingthe Theiss with the Danube. At Apatin a curious wall or rampart, called the Römer Schanze, commences, running E. as faras the Theiss, and forming an enclosed camp of many milessquare, with the Theiss for its eastern base. Thence, with wildswamps on both sides, we come to the mouth of the Drau orDrave, where the river curves round a headland, with theruins of the castle of Ardöd, to Dalya, the first town in Slavoniaa pretty place, with its white houses and queer little church, theroofs of all covered with shingles . Thirteen miles beyond, wecome to Vukowa, on the mouth of the Vuka. Then a furtherstretch of 16 miles brings us to Scharingrad and Illok, with some ruins and a castle of Prince Odescalchi. The scenerynow begins to improve; a range ofhills , the Verdnik Mountains,stretch along the right bank of the river, which, taking a northerly course, in a little time arrives at NEUSATZon the L., and Peterwardein on the R. PeterwardeinROUTE XIII. -VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 151is built on a lofty rock, and is one of the most formidablefortresses on the river. Prince Eugene gained a victoryhere over the Turks in 1716; and Peter the Hermit assembled his forces here when the first Crusade was undertaken.Neusatz, opposite, is, as its name implies , a modern town; but,owing to its favourable position, near the junction of the Theissand Drau, is rapidly rising in importance.Leaving Neusatz, the steamer rounds the promontory onwhich the Citadel of Peterwardein is built, and in about halfan hour arrives at CARLOWITZ, where the treaty was signed in1699 by which Hungary and Slavonia were ceded by the Turksto Austria. Twenty miles further on we come to Szlankament,opposite the mouth of the THEISS. Then there is another longstretch, swamps on the left, forests on the right, till we come toSEMLIN, the last town in Slavonia, situated on the Save or Sau,which forms the frontier of Slavonia and Servia. The besthotel in Semlin is the Goldener Adler. There is nothing to interest the traveller here, except the remains of a Castle on theZigeunerberg, formerly the stronghold of John Hunyady, whodied here in the fifteenth century.BELGRADE, on the opposite side, presents the most pleasingappearance of any town we have yet passed. " The point of thetongue of land on which it stands is occupied by the fortress ,which has low batteries on the Danube and the Save, of which theembrasures were not more than three feet above the stream ofthe flooded rivers . The tongue is overlooked by a bank about150 feet high, included in the fortress, which is zigzagged withwalls, and crowned with official residences and barracks-easymarks for the artillery of an enemy."At some distance from the cliff, a wide trench and a strongwall secure the fortress on the town side, these defences beingcontinued down the sloping fence- banks to the water of theDanube on one side, and to that of the Save on the other. Thetown, scattered over the widening tongue of land, slopes awayinland from the fortress, which occupies the highest groundwithin cannon range. "-Arnold's Levant.Thereis a direct road from Belgrade to Constantinople, viâ Nisch,152 GUIDE TO TURKEY.theancient Nissa, Sofia, Philippople, and Adrianople, afortnight'sjourney on horseback. This route will be described hereafter.Continuing along the Danube, we pass, about 20 miles furtheron, the western mouth of the Morava, the Servian fortress ofSmederevo, and then the eastern arm of the Morava, belowwhich a long, narrow island divides the Danube into twobranches, after which we soon arrive at BASIASCH, the terminusof the railway to Pesth and Vienna.At Alt Moldova the finest scenery on the Lower Danubecommences. The mountains rise to a height of 700 and 800 feeton both sides of the river, their rugged rocks crowned withfoliage; and here and there the remains of an ancient castleoften shoot up straight from the river-bed, which from time totime is crossed by jagged reefs of hard, slaty rock, forming therapids for which this part of the Danube is so notorious, andwhich culminate at the pass of the Iron Gates, or Kara Bab oftheTurks. At high water nothing is seen of these Iron Gates,which, in fact, are nothing but ridges of rock stretching acrossthe river-bed. So far from the mountains forcing the riverinto a narrow space by precipitous towering rocks, the valley ishere rather broader and the hills rather lower than hitherto.Having passed the Gates, we arrive, in about 2 hours, throughbeautiful scenery, where the river appears like a succession ofland-locked lakes, at Orsova. Fifteen miles further on, wecome to Turn- Severin, where we take our final leave of themountains, and enter on another tedious passage, which continuesuninteresting down to the mouths ofthe river. About 35 milesfrom Severin, we pass the mouth of the Timok, the frontier riverbetween Bulgaria and Servia, and then in a short time arrive atWidin, the first Turkish town, opposite KALAFAT, on the Wallachian side, where the change of costume, and the men comingon board with Turkish tobacco for sale, will soon convince thetraveller that the tall, slender structures are really minarets, andnot chimneys. Very little can be seen of the town of Widin,which is surrounded by a white wall, and contains over 20,000inhabitants . It is strongly fortified with 350 guns, and, on thewhole, is a thriving place. In 1689 it was taken by theROUTE XIII. -VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 153Austrians. Kalafat, on the Moldavian side, was temporarilyfortified by the Turks in the campaign of 1850-1856 against theRussians, whom they defeated on January 5 , 1854.Leaving Widin, we pass Arzer Palanka, Zibru, and Rahowa,opposite the mouth of the Schyl, to NICOPOLI, opposite the embouchure of the Aluta. Then come Schistowa (24,000 inhab. )on the right, and SIMNITZA on the left bank; and a little furtheron, Giurgewo, where an island separates the Danube in twoarms, opposite the eastern end of which liesRustzuk,RAILWAY STATION FOR VARNA. The town lies some little wayfrom the banks. The station is close to the river. A Turkishsoldier at the head of the landing takes the passports, which arereturned in about an hour's time, or before the train leaves. Theexpress starts at 1 P.M.In 1854 the Russians had established themselves in Giurgewo,and fortified the island opposite. On the 7th of July, “ OmarPasha directed all his force of 100,000 men upon Rustzuk; thebattle commenced on the 12th at daybreak, and lasted till thenight ofthe 13th. In this interval there were only a few momentsof respite, and that not entirely so, since shells and red-hot ballswere thrown from Rustzuk to the island, and reciprocally: bothparties fought with a ferocity almost unparalleled. During tendays more than 30,000 cannon- balls and shells were fired; it was,in fact, a warfare impossible to describe; the Russians werebeaten, and put to flight, with the loss of more than 6,000 men."-History ofthe War (George Fowler).The journey down the Danube to its mouth is so tedious anddevoid of interest, that very few will undertake it from pleasure,unless Odessa be their destination. For the benefit of such,however, we will accompany them as far as Ismail.Leaving Rustzuk, the first place of any importance on theright bank is Turtukan, and on the left, nearly opposite, nearthe mouth of Dumbowitza, Oltenitza, where the Turks gainedanother signal victory over the Russians in 1854. Just beforearriving at Turtukan, the river forms a curious bay on the left154 GUIDE TO TURKEY.bank, called the Balta See. We then come to SILISTRIA,famous for its sieges in 1828-29 , and in 1853, during the CrimeanWar. In 1853 the Russian forces amounted to 53,000 men,whilst the Turkish forces only numbered 8,000. The principalattack was directed against the outworks named Araba Tabiaand Illani, on the S.W. of the town, where the ground rises ina succession of terraces . They were bombarded night and day;and on the 11th May, when the Russians mustered 67,000 strong,they commenced a furious attack, especially against Fort Tabia.The operations were directed by Prince Paskiewitsch in person;but in vain. The soil was convulsed and rent by the explosionof mines; heaps of dead marked the hottest of the fight; butnothing could overcome the hereditary hate and fanatical furyof the Turks against their enemies. The tremendous exertionsof the heroic defenders, however, began to tell upon theirframes, and a certain despair began to creep in, when two youngEnglishmen, on their way from India, arrived at Silistria, and,"for the fun of the thing," volunteered their services . Theywere gladly accepted; and Messrs. Butler and Nasmyth set towork with such energy that, on the 29th of May, when 20,000Russians attacked Araba Tabia, and 10,000, Illani, they wereutterly defeated; and, after they had picked up as many oftheir dead and wounded as possible, they still left 1,760 on thefield. After this signal repulse, Prince Paskiewitsch had aninterview with Mussa Pasha, the Turkish commander, whenhe said that he wished to prevent a further effusion of blood bymerely informing Mussa Pasha that the Czar had said, Silistriamust be taken at any cost-and therefore it might as well begiven up at once. To which Mussa very calmly replied, “ Andhis Majesty the Sultan has commanded me not to give it up; norwould I surrender it even if I had but 1,000 men, and all Russia,with the Czar at its head, were clamouring at the gates foradmission." Prince Paskiewitsch then attempted to bribe thePasha, whose only reply was, " Let us now retire; the truce isover." On the 21st of June, the gallant Pasha was killed by acannon-ball whilst at prayer; but, on the 13th, General Schilders ,of the Russian army-who had, curiously enough, taken this veryROUTE III .-VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 155fortress, some twenty-five years previously—had both his thighsshattered; General Luders, Count Orloff, Prince Gortschakoff,and Prince Paskiewitsch were all severely wounded. Finally,on the 23rd of June, the Russians raised the siege, after havingincurred a loss of over 30,000 men.Nearly opposite Silistria the Danube divides into a numberof arms, and we come to no place of importance before RASSOWA,near to which commences the WALL OF TRAJAN, consisting ofparallel lines of earth ramparts, running from the Danube toKustendji, to which there is the railway connecting the BlackSea and the Danube at TSCHERNAWODA, which we pass beforearriving at HIRSSAWA. The traveller can take this route toConstantinople, if he prefer it . Continuing northwards,through vast swamps, haunted by pelicans and eagles , on thelowlands of the Dobrudscha, we come to IBRAIL, the chief portof Wallachia. Great trade in corn and dried plums . Thenpast the mouth of the Sereth, and we arrive at GALATZ, theport for Moldavia, and free port; seat of an immense corntrade. A little below Galatz, the Pruth enters the Danube,and we come to the first Russian town- Reni. Thence toISMAIL, celebrated by the siege against it directed by Suwarrow,in 1780-90-a siege that has found its Homer in Byron: -" The Russians, having built two batteries onAn isle near Ismail, had two ends in view:The first was to bombard it, and knock downThe public buildings, and the private, too,No matter what poor souls might be undone.The city's shape suggested this, ' tis true;Form'd like an amphitheatre, each dwellingPresented a fine mark to throw a shell in."We have brought the traveller as far as Ismail; but if boundfor Constantinople he will not pass it, as the steamer on leavingGalatz enters the central, or Sulina, channel, which is now beingregulated by the English commission.Thus the points of departure on the Danube for Constantinople are―156 GUIDE TO TURKEY.1. Belgrade, by horse.2. Rustzuk; rail to Varna, thence by steamer.3. Tschernavoda, rail to Kustendji, thence by steamer.Rustzuk to Constantinople.The arrangements on this line of railway to Varna are of themost primitive kind. There are no restaurants on the way; butan Italian ristoratore travels with the train, and brings whatever the hungry and thirsty may require of his very limited,meagre, and dirty store of provisions; for which they will haveto pay a most exorbitant price . It is therefore best to takeprovisions with one from the steamer.The country is uninteresting; the line leads over a successionof downs, winding in and out among copses of stunted wood,past a number of small, unimportant places, of which Rasgradand Pravady are the largest, to Varna. About 14 miles beforeVarna, the line is carried along the shores of a vast swampy lake,swarming with wild fowl and pelicans.The line forms, with the outworks of the Balkan, the ancientHaemus, the S.W. base of defence to the DOBRUDSCHA- thepeninsula, as it were, between the Danube and the Black Sea,which from time immemorial has been celebrated as a battlefield. Schumla and Varna are the keys of this base. Asecondline of defence is formed by TRAJAN'S WALL, with Hirssowa,Rassowa, and Kustendji to guard it.The stations on the line are: Tschernavoda, Vetova, Rasgrad,Ishlikar, sh*tanjik, Schumla Road (for SCHUMLA) , Pravady,Gubedjie, VARNA.SCHUMLA is an important town; in fact, it may be lookedupon as the Capital of Bulgaria. It is situated in a veryfertile plain between two mountains; but its position is unhealthy. Its commerce consists chiefly in wine and copperutensils, as well as cloth, which is made up here and sent toConstantinople. In ancient times, Schumla is supposed to havebeen Marcianopolis, the capital of Masia Secunda, the presentROUTE XIII.-VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 157Bulgaria. A medal was found here in 1812, bearing thelegend,ΥΠΤΙΟΥΛΦΗΚΤΟΥΜΑΡΚΙΑΝΟΠΟΛΙΤΟΝ,which would seem to confirm the supposition. Another onewas also discovered of Alexander the Great, represented asHercules, in silver , calling to mind his expedition into Mæsia,and his passage of Mount Hamus, 355 B.c.VARNA lies at some little distance from the line; and thetraveller most probably will not care about entering the town,but proceed straight to the steamer. Small boats are required.The town itself is built on the verge of the sea, on suchuneven ground that the walls enlosing it sometimes are on alevel with the water's edge, and at other places 20 to 40 feetabove it. It is strongly fortified, but a tumble-down, uninteresting place, with nothing to recommend a visit to the generaltourist. It contains about 16,000 inhabitants.On leaving Varna, the steamer remains in sight of the coastall the way, past the towns of BURGAS, SISEBOLI, and INIADA,till we come to Kara Bourun, or the Black Cape, near to which,a little inland, lies Derkos, the ancient Denelton, where theWall ofAnastasius commences, running S.W. right across thepeninsula to the shores of the Sea of Marmora, near Silivré,the ancient Selymbria. The coast now stretches almost due E. ,and, passing Jenikoi, Akbunar, Aghatschlykoi, and Tschaptalan,we arrive off KILIA, or KILIOs, a small fortress guarding theEuropean approach to the Bosphorus, as RIWA does on theAsiatic side. The bay on which Kilia is situated is a favouritefishing-ground. Midway between Kilia and the entrance tothe Bosphorus, Usundscha Burun (Burun means cape) stretchesout into the sea; after passing which, we arrive at Fanaraki, orFenerkoï, i.e. , the Village of the Lighthouse , at the entranceof theRIGHT HAND.Bosphorus.FANARAKI, or FENER KOI,fort of 126 guns, and lighthouse for the European shore. CloseLEFT HAND.Jum Burum, a steep, bluffrock projecting into the sea,the ancient Argyraion, so called158 GUIDE TO TURKEY.to the point rise the Sympleiades, or Cyaneian rocks, from their blue colour, and theirsupposed propensity to grindand champ against each other,like thejaws of some monstrous animal. On one of them thereis the pedestal of a column, orthe remains of an altar to Apollo, erected by the Romans.It is also probable that the gigantic Urn erected by Pausanias at the entrance of the Bosphorus was situated here.KARYBSCHE KALESI, fortwith 38 guns, the ancient Gy- gopolis (City of the Vultures),where King Phineas is sup- posed to have entertained theArgonauts, who had deliveredhim from the Harpies.Böjuk Liman, 22 guns. The modern fortifications were built by_Tott, 1773.RUMELI KAWAGHI, 24 guns.The promontory at the foot of which it lies corresponds to that of Hieron, and was in ancient times called Amilton.Temples to Cybele and Serapis,of which the ruins are still extant, were erected on its slopes .The foundations of a Templeare also to be seen near the coast, and, further on, of aConvent to the Virgin of Mavro Molos, founded by Eudocia, wife of Constantine Ducas. The fortress was builtby Sultan Murad IV. against the incursions of the Cossacks,when the passage of the Bos- phorus was blocked by an ironfrom the Argonauts havingtaken a heavy stone from it foran anchor, in exchange for theone they had brought fromCyzichus. The transformationof inanimate things to holy ones,andevensaints , is here strikinglyexemplified; for the bay at thebase ofthe rockis called the Bay of St. Sideros -St. Anchora.Thus the stone anchor has become an iron one during theprocess of mutation.ANADOLI FENER, a fort , corresponding to Fanariki oppo- site, with 22 guns, and light- house.Citadel, with 39 guns.Poiras Kalesi, 14 guns, forton the end of Fil Burun, Cape of the Elephant.Joros Kalesi, small hamleton the northern side ofthe promontory, which here stretches out into the sea, and called in ancient times Hieron.ANADOLI KAWAGLU, 44 guns .The promontory Hieron is thecontinuation or last spur ofMount Olympus, correspondingwith the rocks opposite, the eastern termination of MountHaemus. Originally there isno doubt but that they wereunited, and have been rent by some volcanic or terramotalconvulsion. The Greeks erectedseveral altars and temples onHieron, to propitiate the gods,and pray for fair passage onROUTE XIII. -VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 159chain reaching from shore to shore. The modern fortifications were constructed byMonnier, 1783.Sarijeri, 10 guns, at the footof the mountain forming the N. side of the Bay of Buyukdere, Mesar Burun, or Cape of the Graves, from its proximity to the burial- places of Sarijeri.Sarijeri signifies in Turkish the Yellow Place, and is sonamed on account of yellow ochreous rocks around. It is celebrated for its gardens and cherries. Cape Mesar Burun,in ancient times, was called Sinias; and the bay, Skletrinas.A statue of Venus Meretricia stood here formerly, which, asit is affirmed, was very exceedingly venerated by sailors and seamen.BUYUKDERE, a charming village, where the various em- bassies reside during thesummer season. It was formerly called Bathy KolpasThere is an their voyages.old Castle on the summit,dating from 1200. The Rus- sians, on their first visit to theBosphorus, advanced as far as here in 865, but were forced toretreat. In 941, however, they came again, and burnt Steniaand the village of Hieron, when they were attacked and defeated by Theophanes. From the proximity of both shores,this spot was the most convenientfor levying toll, which was done by the earliest Byzantine Emperors, and ever sinceHieron has been looked uponas the key to the Bosphorus,and alternately belonged to the Genoese and Byzantines. The arms of both are still to be seen on the walls of the old castle.Juscha Dagh. Joshua's Moun- tain, sometimes called theGiant's Mountain, stretchesout into the sea, just belowAnadoli. On the highest summit there is a mosque, kept by two dervishes, behind which isshown the Tomb ofJoshua, whois supposed to have been buried here. The Greeks call it theBed of Hercules; it is 20 feetlong and 6 feet broad. Therags fluttering about on thebranches are placed there bypilgrims, in the belief that, as the wind blows them aboutand airs them, so will any diseases gradually disappear with which the owners of the habitsto which they belonged may suffer. The foot of the hilldivides in two branches: thenorthern one, Madschar Burun,or Cape of the Hungarians; and160 GUIDE TO TURKEY.(Deep Bay), and the valleyextends for nearly six miles from the shore . Buyukdereis the best place for headquarters for any one wishing to explore the neighbourhood.Magnificent walks and the most lovely scenery. Thereis a celebrated group of trees here, the Seven Brothers, JediKardasch, under which it is said that Count Raoul and some of the Crusaders encamped whenAlexis Commenus was emperor. Hotel du Croissant, good.Kefili Koi, small village.Fine view.THERAPIA, So named fromthe healthiness of its position .Formerly it, and the bay also,were called Pharmakia, from the story that Medea, whenshe had assisted Jason in stealing the Golden Fleece by drugging the dragon that guardedit, threw the remaining drugsinto the gulf. Its more modernname, Therapia, was given toit by the patriarch Atticus,whom the salubrious air cured of a severe illness . The numerous villas around belong to Greeks, who pass the summerhere, as in Buyukdere, and tosome of the Europeans. TheHotel d'Angleterre is very fair.Price, per day, 50 piastres 10s.orSevli Burun, Cypress Point,the southern one. Betweenthe two lies Umurkoi,Umurjeri. The fortress orbattery at the foot of the firstor northern branch is calledMadschar Kalessi, 60 guns.South of Sevli Burun lies Unkiar Skelessi, with a magnifi- cent marble paper-mill, builtby Selim III. , and a Palace which the Pasha of Egypt builtand presented to the Sultan.The valley and slopes of the Giant's Mountain formed the site for the Russian encampment in 1833, when the noto- rious convention was made, by which the Turks should closethe Dardanelles to all foreignships, "if the Czar consideredit necessary!”Jalikoi and Beykjos. Thebay was formerly named Amykus, after Amykus, King of the Berbyces-a wild savage of aa most pugilistic tendency.Every one that passed that wayhe challenged; and such washis power and dexterity, thathe invariably killed them.But then came Pollux; and here he found his match, and was killed in turn. Still hisquarrelsome disposition was sostrong, that a laurel planted onhis grave imbibed his propen- sities, and rendered every onethat broke off any of it so pug- nacious that he could not helpfighting with all who came across him. There may be sometruth in the story, and that all of the Turkish populationsare still suffering from theROUTE XIII. -VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 161KoiBashi.-First- ratefishingground for anglers. The Sultan has a small palace here, diplo- matically interesting as thescene of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe's treaties in 1812.JENIKOIand STENIA. -Steniaforms the finest port in theBosphorus, remarkably adapted for ship-building, and there- fore, from time immemorial,used as such. It was also thescene of numerous battles, andknown by three different names-Stenos, Leothenius, and Sos- thenios. The first is derivedfrom its position on the straitsof the Bosphorus; the second,from its founder, MegarasLeosthenes; the third, fromthe Argonauts, who erected atemple here, out of gratitude for their victory over KingAmykus, who had attackedthem, and, as we have seen,was killed by Pollux, one of their party.Emirgian, so called from aPersian Emir who was takenprisoner by Murad IV. , and afterwards becoming his fa- vourite on account of his musical talents, subsequently re- sided here. It used to becalled Kyparodis - Cypress Grove.Balta Liman, where the cele- brated Reschid Pasha had avilla, and signed several im- portant treaties, 1841 and 1849.The cape on which Balta and the Castle are situated rises toeffects of this " InsensateLaurel," as Pliny calls it.Indschir Koi, the Village ofFigs. There is a curious lusus naturæ here; two fig- trees and two cypresses are so grown together, that the latter seem tobe bearing the former trees'fruit.Tschibukly, with the ruinsof a monastery, founded in 420,by the Abbot Alexander, andcalled the Monastery of the Sleepless (ἀκοιμήτων) . It numbered some 300 monks,who continually celebrated Divine service and sang hymns,day and night, without interruption.at Kanlydsche, the Village ofBlood . Nothing is morevariance with its name than this village, in one of the love- liest situations on the Bosphorus, with its kiosks, minarets,and terraces reflected in thewaters, over which it risesamphitheatrically on the hills behind.162 GUIDE TO TURKEY.a high peak, about 1 milefrom the shore, with severalgraves of Moslem saints onthe summit.RUMELI HISSAR, the Castleof Rumelia-the first castleon this, the narrowest, part ofthe Bosphorus-was built by Mohammed II. , two years before his victorious assault on Constantinople. Its remarkableformis explained bythe fact that the Sultan ordered it tobe built so as to represent the four characteristic letters inhis name--M. H. M. D. Jos .Over 1,000 masons were employed; each one had to construct 6 feet in length of thewhole, of which the walls were30 feet thick and 60 feet high.Here also, according to Herodotus, Darius ordered Man- drocles of Samos to build hima solid bridge over to the Asiatic side, which he did, andthus gave a passage to 700,000 men. To commemorate hisname:-Βόσπορον ἰχθυόεντα γεφυρώσας ἀνέθηκεΜανδροκλέηςσχεδίης,Ηρῃ μνημόσυνονΑὐτῳ μὲν στεφανον περιθεὶς Σα- μίοισι, δὲ κῦδος,Δαρείου Βασιλέως ἐκτελέσας κατα νουν.."Mandrocles having_built abridge over the fishy Bospho- rus, dedicated a painting of it to Hera. Thus Mandroclesgained glory for the Samoans,and obtained a crown by executing this plan of Darius. "ANADOLI HISSAR, the Castleof Asia, was built by Bajazet,in 1393. At one time it wascalled Kara Hissa, the Black Castle, and was used as a stateprison, acquiring as feared anotoriety as the Piombi inVenice. The valley at thefoot, watered by the Göksu,or Heavenly Brook, is one of the loveliest around; in fact,it is considered the Pearl oftheEast. A Turkish poet givesit the preference before even the plains and gardens of Da- mascus. The village at thefoot is Azarien, and contains amagnificent palace built byMohammed I., and restored by Selim I.ROUTE XIII.-VIENNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 163BEBEK. -The charming situation occupied by this place and Kandili opposite has induced many of the Sultans to build their summer palaces here. The most noteworthy was Humayun Abad, built by Ibrahim Pasha, for Sultan Achmed; but it has been de- stroyed by fire. There wasformerly a Temple here ofDiana Diktynna, which has yielded to several schools and missions of the Pères Laza- ristes and Americans.ARNAOUT KOI, a village ofthe Albanians, where Constan- tine built the Church of St.Michael, which Mohammed II.pulled down for building ma- terials for Rumili Hissar.Kura Tschesme, a village between the north side of Defterdar Burun (Cape Defterdar)and the south side of AkindiBurun. It was on one of thesecapes, or in the vicinity, that Simeon and Daniel Stylitesbegan their extraordinary prac- tices. Cedrenus says:-" Inthese days came Simeon, andmounted a pillar, in order to separate himself from thecrowd who wished to touchhis garments, which were made of skins. His firstcolumn was 18 feet high; then,successively, 36 feet, 66 feet,and 108 feet. I do not think itcould have been possible forhim thus to live, unless sustained by Divine help. For,as the Lord commanded Isaiahto walk naked and barefoot;KANDILI, named in ancienttimes Tepippovv, the Stream- bathed, on account of therapid current, which is called Scheitan Akindisi. The viewfromthe top of the hill behind ismost beautiful, and extends tothe Sea of Marmora and the Princes Islands. The situationdoes not yield to any for beauty.Cypress - groves contrastingtheir sombre hue with myriadsof roses, kiosks and villas risingup between, the hills at the back and the rushing Bosphorus in front, all combine to forma scene of unrivalled loveliness .Kalelli, with an enormousriding- school and barracks for cavalry.Dschengelli Koi, so named from an ancient anchor foundhere by Mohammed II. Alsothe scene of sanguinary execu- tions under Murad IV.M2164 GUIDE TO TURKEY.-Jeremiah, to prophesy with agirdle only round his waist,and bells of wood and ironround his neck; Hosea, toconsort with adulterers; Ezekiel, to lie 40 days on his rightand 150 days on his left side,to sharpen his sword and shavehis head, to part his hair in four places, in the samemanner as the Lord orderedthese things , so that people,attracted by the curiosity ofthe spectacle, should obey Hisword, so did this great light,Simeon, as though upon acandlestick, diffuse his rays,so that Iberians, Armenians,and Persians came to be bap- tised,"Esma Sultana, the Palaceof Esma, the sister of Mahmud II. , whose love- adventureswere as notorious as Julia's, of Roman fame. An arch isshown from which the Bosphorus washed up the bodies of her unfortunate lovers.ORTAKOI, a village, inhabitedchiefly by Jews and Christians,on the high road between Pera and Buyukdere.Mussafir Hane. A magnificent palace, formerly devoted to royal visitors.Battery and Flag-tower.MewlewiTekkiesi. Amonastery ofthe order of the Turningor Dancing Dervishes, foundedbySheikhMewlaneDochelalud- din Muhammed, in 643 of theHegira. There is one in Stambul proper, and a third in Pera.TSCHIRAGAN SERAI. This Palace was founded in 1680, byMohammed IV. , enlarged byBEYLER BEY, a favourite resort of the Franks and opulent Greeks.Istawros, with Mosque andGarden by Achmed I. , 1613.Battery.Kusgundschuk, with a Palace by Sultan Abdul Agiz, anda Church built by Justinian and the Empress Sophia. Here was the scene of Io's transformation into a cow, which, tor- mented by a thorn, threw itself into the waters and passed tothe other side-whence theROUTE XIV.-TSCHERNAVODA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 165Mahmud I., and finished by Mahmud II. In 1860 it wastaken down, and the presentstructure completed by Abdul Agiz.aBESCHIK TASCH, with aDervish monastery andmosque, Valide Djami, whichthe Sultan generally visitswhen residing in the DOLMA BAGTSCHE SERAI, to which we shall refer later.FUNDUKLY, the Turkishquarter of Pera.TOPHANE, the ancient Me- topore.GALATA, the commercial"city of Constantinople, off which we cast anchor.name Boos-Poros, or Ox- Ford.On the other side she broughtforth a horn (Keroes) . TheTurks also call this Ukooz Limanee, the Port of theOx. "66Kolluk, or guard- house.Ukooz Limane. ( See above. )BUYUK DJAMI.SCUTARI, or Usküdar, withthe Mosques of Jeni Djamiand Eski Valide Djami. The tower offthe point is the Towerof Leander, or Kiss - Kalesi(Maiden's Tower) , as the Turks call it.ROUTE XIV.Tschernavoda to Constantinople.THIS route, with the exception of the additional journey on theDanube, past Silistria and Rassowa, is the same as the preceding one, plus the longer line of Black Sea coast. The railwayfrom Tschernavoda to Kustendji nearly follows the lines ofTrajan's Wall, to which we have already referred (page 155) .166 GUIDE TO TURKEY.REMARKS ON TURKEY IN EUROPE.Ir is absolutely necessary that the traveller in European Turkeyshould have some knowledge of the country, its inhabitants andtheir customs, before entering it. Furthermore, it is no lessnecessary that he should bear in mind that Rayah, Moslem, andall the various subjects of the Porte will, under many circ*mstances, treat him as an equal, and sometimes as their inferior,though this will be but seldom. He need not be surprised atsome Bulgarian shepherd or some Haiduc's coming to him,when at dinner in the open air, with a " Fala bogu dobro!" or"Dobrojuto Gospodin!" and share your repast like a brother.Among the Christian populations in the wilds and mountains,every man is equal; and he would be worse than a fool thatwould think of resenting any of these liberties. On entering akhan, the khanji is sure to make free of your tobacco; so arethe other travellers that may be here; and, if you wish to be especially brotherly, which will do no harm, you can " stand " acup of coffee all round-a treat costing, perhaps, 2d. for eightcups. But tobacco is common property, as much as the snuffbox "pro bono publico " in some of our old-fashioned inns. Ifyou conform to these and similar customs with a good grace,without ostentation, and with open frankness, you can travelfrom one end of Turkey to the other in safety, and such comfortas the land affords. The manners of all are rough, and peculiarlyso is their speech; so when some fierce-looking, moustachednative addresses you in what appears to be a torrent of abuse,with corresponding gestures, you may be sure he is only askingsome trivial questions. For in curiosity they beat the Yankeeshollow, and you must be prepared to submit to all kinds ofquestions-what you are, where you are going- “ Nereden guelirsinitz?” in Turkish-and whether you are not a “ hakim, ” orREMARKS ON TURKEY IN EUROPE. 167666666 Butdoctor. This last every Frank is supposed to be; so a goodlystock of Morrison's pills will do you good service; and a smallmagneto-electric machine, some magnesium wire and potassium,will win you such veneration and titles as you never dreamt ofin your native land . Potassium, which must be kept in naphtha,and burns brightly when cast upon the water, will astonish them into 'fits ." When I was in the Desert, journeying towardsPalmyra from Aleppo, the Bedouins, in consequence of a quarrel,refused to allow me to proceed any further with them . I coollyreplied, " Taib; malesh!" (Good; it does not matter. )how can you find your way? where will you look for water?""That is my business: the question rather applies to you. "'To us? how so? Allah will always send us springs; but notto a Giaour!" " Allah may send you as much as he likes; but Ishall burn it up!" "Hearken to the fool, the accursed grandsonof a filthy swine, how he chatters!" was the flattering reply.But in the meantime I had taken some of my potassium, andcast it on the waters of the little pool near which we had encamped. When the Bedouins beheld the globes of fire hissing and flying round about on the surface, " Y'Allah! Aman,aman!" (O Allah! grace, mercy!) , they bellowed, and imploredme to desist, and forget and forgive; which I naturally did .But nothing could induce them to fill their water- skins at theaccursed spring, which they henceforth named Ain- el-nar, orAin-el-otesch, the Fire-spring; and I have no doubt it is stillknown by that name, as well as I was by the title of Afreet- el- Nar, the Fire-devil, or Sheitan-el- Nar. Potassium you willget very good and much cheaper in Frankfort than in England;magnesium at the Stereoscopic Company's, in Cheapside.When visiting any Pasha, Caimakam, Bey, or Mudir, youwill always meet with the greatest courtesy and hospitality.One thing should always be observed, that is, never enter thedivan in the shoes you have been walking in. Always haveyour boots of immaculate splendour, and wear overshoes, whichyou kick off at the entrance. This is an act of common politeness and cleanliness. No one would think of entering a ballroom or drawing-room in England with filthy or thick hobnailed168 GUIDE TO TURKEY.travelling boots; and it must be remembered that the Osmansuse their carpets as sofas. As soon as you have entered, makeyour bow in European style: nothing is more ridiculous than tosalute an educated Moslem in the national manner-viz. , raisingyour hand to forehead and chest successively-unless you havebeen a long time in the country, and quasi-naturalised . Pipes andcoffee will at once be brought. Do not thank the servant; butturn to the Pasha, and bow your thanks to him. Then theconversation commences; and if you have any request to make,you can do so . The Osmans of rank are ever most obliging,and will furnish you with zabties and horses whenever yourequire them. In fact, your first visit should always be to thePasha of the town you are at. No praise of their friendlinessand kindness and consideration can be too exaggerated.The " zabties " are the military police in Turkey, and a mostvaluable body of men. You will soon recognise them by theirdress-something like a Zouave's. With one of these zabties(pronounced Zabtia) , who accompany you from station to station,you can travel without having recourse to guides or dragomen, ifyou have any self- reliance at all, as most likely all those willhave who think of travelling in Turkey.Now, a few words as to the various populations of Turkey.They consist of—OSMANS 2,000,000BULGARIANS 4,304,240 SLAVONIANS SERVIANS AND BOSNIANS ..... 2,600,180ROUMANIANS 4,202,340GRECO- LATINS ALBANIANS 1,309,000GREEKS 990,000ARMENIANSJEWSTATARS 1,000,000RASCIANS...TZINGANS, &c.16,405,760REMARKS ON TURKEY IN EUROPE. 169These are the inhabitants of Turkey divided according to race,a fact that must always be well borne in mind, as nothing causesso many mistakes as the eternal confusion of race and religion ,which the Moslems are guilty of from carelessness , and theGreeks purposely produce in order to identify creed and race,so as to secure the sympathy of the West by barefacedly assertingthat, of the whole population in Turkey, no less than 9,650,000are Greeks, whereas they are merely Greek by religion . It isthe same as saying all Roman Catholics are Italians . In likemanner, the Osmans will put down their numbers at 5,910,000,whilst there are no more than 2,000,000, the rest being merelythe native professors of Islam, who have abjured their faith, of which the Bosnians form the greatest quota.With this conglomeration of nationalities, it appears at first sightinexplicable how 2,000,000 of Osmans, an enervated, voluptuousrace, as we are told , have been, and still are, able to maintaintheir authority. But this very conglomeration affords the explanation. They have as many different interests as they number races; the Osmans have only one: they are as united astheir subjects are disunited . But there is one other fact whichmilitates more against a union of these races to a joint rebellionagainst the Porte than any other, and that is the ecclesiasticalsystem, to which we shall presently refer. The Slavonians hatethe Greeks as much as the Greeks the Osmans: and the Greeksdespise them as much as they do the Osmans; just the same asa London thief has a contempt for a hard- working blacksmith,who earns his scanty living by the abundant sweat of his brow,instead of taking to the easier and more intellectual profession ofhouse- breaking. A great deal of twaddle is talked about the"support" and "bolstering up of the SickMan" byforeign powers,and against these the Greek is especially clamorous. But theSick Man is a myth: he is alive, and full of life too; for all thecraft, cunning, and talent of one of the craftiest races inexistence combine with all their energies to sustain him. TheGreeks themselves are his most zealous supporters! This willsound incredible at first sight; but look at the facts, and then youwill be convinced. To arrive at these facts, we must go back to170 GUIDE TO TURKEY.the time when the Osmans first settled in Europe; and here wewill interpolate an observation which it will be well to remember.According to Abu'lgazi Badhur- Khan, the Turks derive theirdescent from Turk, eldest son of Japhet; but they now considerthe appellation Turk as insulting as we should the title ofBarbarian, if applied to us by a Greek or Italian. They alwaysstyle themselves Ottomans or Osmanlis, from their caliph ofglorious memory, Osman. Therefore, never use the obnoxiousepithet in the presence of an Ottoman; nor would it be less thanproper always so to designate them. To return: on their arrivalin Europe, the Ottomans were forced, from their ignorance ofEuropean customs, courts , and languages, to employ the servicesofthe wilyand astute Greeks in their communications withforeigncountries. These Greeks, with the titles of dragoman, soonmanaged to possess themselves of great power, and formed acolony in Stamboul, called the PHANAR, in which the wholegovernment of the empire was virtually concentrated. ThePhanariotes were elected to most of the important positions ,were the Hospodars of Wallachia and Moldavia, drew theecclesiastical authority over their co- religionists into their hands,and, finally, monopolised for themselves or their compatriotsthe entire trade of the empire, except such as the Armenianssuccessfully competed with them in. The Greek interest, therefore, became bound up with the Ottoman. For the Greek,unlike the Swiss or Saxon, is incapable of a sacrifice to gain hisindependence. “ Freedom and liberty " with a Greek is synonymous with eating and drinking and making merry at otherpeople's expense, and doing whatever he likes, without the, to him,incomprehensible anomaly of being subject to the law. It is allvery well to hear the Greek talk of his lost liberty, the destruction of his nation, &c.; but the Greeks never formed a nation:Greek history is nothing but that of a number of rival townsand petty kingdoms that were continually eating each otherup. The cause of this was a superior intellect, coupled with anextraordinarily developed individuality. Each Greek, in fine,was, and still is, a host in himself; hence the saying, " WhenGreek meets Greek, then comes the tug of war. " For theREMARKS ON TURKEY IN EUROPE. 171proper constitution of society, it is necessary that, as in anelectric machine, there should be the two opposite poles -thenegative and the positive. Now the Greeks are all peculiarlypositive; hence the impossibility of the machines ever workingin proper order. Who ever heard of two rival authors, tworival bishops, or two rival anythings, working and pulling together? Just so with the Greeks. Of them may with truthbe said, with Byron's permission for the parody:-"The world is a bundle of hay,Mankind are the asses that seekEach to pull it a different way,And the greatest of all is the Greek. "Asses, merely as regards the national and general benefit- notindividually. Thus, as long as the Greek remains what he is,Greece will also remain so, and the Greek dreams of powerwhat they always have been-dreams. It is absurd to compareGreece with Italy. In Italy we have the two poles, in thenorthern and southern populations; and though the excessiveabundance of positive electricity often deranges the machine,still it does work to some extent.Thus, the rich, powerful Greeks of the empire never dreamt ofturning their power in the right direction towards the attainmentof a national independence; for then the offices, the emoluments,and positions of rank would be open to all, and the Kilkenny cattragedy be enacted over and over again. Patriotism does not goso far with them. The Porte has found this out; and whenever arupture occurs with its unruly subjects or captious neighbour,an order to expel the Greek merchants, and the dismissal of thechief Greek officials, always bring them to reason. Now forthe machinery by which the Greeks have kept their authority,which, however effectual in its ends, is , like all Machiavelliansystems, cutting the throats of its contrivers, and from whichthe Ottoman Government is gradually emancipating itself.First and foremost comes the spiritural authority, producingsuch material benefits as have ever prevented the Greekpatriarchs from espousing the cause of an independent nation.172 GUIDE TO TURKEY.The clergy is divided into the Hieromonachi, who take thevows of celibacy, and monopolize the fat of the land; and theKosmoipopachs, or secular clergy. Asthese are fed upon bythehigher dignitaries, so they, in turn, feed upon the people, whoare imposed upon in a thousand ways, in consequence of theignorance and superstition they are condemned to by theirspiritual leaders . If a new house is built, it must receive abenediction; so must the fields before they are sown, the cropswhen ripe, the pastures of the shepherd; vermin must beexcommunicated, evil spirits driven out, the sick healed bytheir prayers, masses said for the dead; and all at a heavy price,in addition to the usual fees for the other religious rites. Ofthesefees the bishops and the Patriarch take very nearly nine-tenths,thus condemning the lower orders, the papas, to hopeless penury,ignorance, and everything that is bad. So firm, however, wasthe hold that the clergy possessed on their spiritual subjects ,that the Ottomans at once made use of the fact, and held thePatriarch at Constantinople responsible, as it were, for the goodconduct of his flock, under pain of dismissal. The Patriarchsaccepted this position without hesitation, and united with theircompatriots and colleagues, the bishops, to a system which hasonly just recently received its death-blow by the success of theBulgarians in obtaining the natural right to elect their ownbishops and Patriarch, subject always to the approval of theSultan. Thus the Bulgarians have succeeded in ridding themselves ofthe spiritual rule of a foreign race they detest, anddiminished the revenue of the Greek Patriarch by the fees of4,500,000 souls . The Porte is no loser by the transaction; forwhereas it held the Greek Patriarch, now it holds the Bulgarianresponsible for his flock, and, besides that, has satisfied theclamorous demands of the whole race. First Servia was lost tothe Greek ecclesiastical rule; now Bulgaria. We may thushope that the beginning of the end has approached-the end of Greek influence.As it is in matters spiritual, so it is in temporal affairs. TheGreeks have insinuated themselves into every office where theirvenality, cupidity, and utter scrupulousness promise wealthREMARKS ON TURKEY IN EUROPE. 173and rank. They are the parasites, the vermin, that cripple theOttoman Government; and no foreigner can withstand theirallures, be honest to his trust in the Ottoman service, and live.If not actually poisoned , he is temporally ruined. The corruption of the Greeks, and those they have Hellenicised, isbeyond all conception or comparison, even with the notoriousvenality of the Russian bureaucracy. Thus the Greeks upholdand support the Ottoman Government in order to feed uponits booty, just the same as a slave-owner will take care of hisslaves so that they procure him the wealth he is too indolentto obtain himself. Like the slave- owners too, some of themwill occasionally ill- treat his slave; but they always find it iscutting their own throats. So much for the Greeks; and myadvice is, never engage a Greek in any capacity whatever, unlessyou have the most ample proof of his honesty-a proof seldomto be met with.The traveller will now have some little idea of the status quoin Turkey. For fuller information we recommend Ubicini'sLetters on Turkey, a most excellent book, published originallyin French, but translated into English. The following termsand their signification may be of use: —AYAK NAIB-Deputy.ASHABS -Companions and disciples of the Prophet."" BEKIARS-The unmarried " auvergnats of Turkey, hiringthemselves out in the large towns, as porters, boatmen, &c.DEFTERDAR-Revenue- collector of an Eyalet.EYALET-Government general. There are twelve in EuropeanTurkey, viz.:-1. Adrianople.2. Silistria,3. Widdin,4. Nissa.Formed from the ancient kingdom of Bulgaria, conquered by Bajazet, 1396.5. Bosna-Became subject to the Porte in the 15th century, on the death of Scanderbeg,6. Yanina, The ancient Epirus and Macedonia, con7. Salonik. quered by Amurath II. ,1451.174 GUIDE TO TURKEY.8. Uskub,9. Roumelia.The ancient Albania, conquered by Mohammed II. , 1492.10. Belgrade.- Now given up to the Servians.11. Dji*zair, or the Isles, from Samothracia to Rhodes.12. Crete or Cryt. —Candia, taken from the Venetians, 1669.FERIK-General of Division.66FETVAH-Sacred seal, or decision written by a judge on themerits of a case about to be brought before the courts ofjustice.For instance, 66' Abdallah, the son of Emin, refuses to maintainhis brother's wife. Query-Has she a right to demand it?"This statement and question is handed to the judge, whosimply writes upon it, She has," or " She has not. " Hereupon the case is argued, or falls through. It is similar to ourEnglish juries finding a true bill, or throwing it out. TheFetvah also signifies the seal or signature of the Sheikh-ul-Islam,without which the Sultan is supposed to be unable to issue any decree.HATTI- SCHERIF, HATTI-HOUMAYOUM-Imperial decrees andordinances.HADIS-Traditional sayings of the Prophet.KALAMIEH-Penmen, clerks.KAIMAKAM-Governor of a Liva (vide).KODJA-BASHI-(vide)."" Nahizeh, under the MoukhtarKAZA-Ordinary tribunal, composed ofthe Mollah, or chiefjudge; the Mufti (vide); a Naib, assistant-judge; an AyakNaib, deputy; Bash- Kiatib, notary.KAZAS-Division of the Livas (vide),KAZI-ASKER-Chiefs of the two Sandours, or chambers ofthe Arzodasi, or Supreme Courts of Appeal and Justice.KIATIB-Notary.LIVAS, or SANDJAKS-Provinces or divisions of the Eyalets.MUDIR-Governor of a Kaza, appointed by the Vali Pasha(vide).MOUKHTAR-Governor of a Nahizeh.MALMUDIR-Revenue-collector of a Liva.MEBAKY-Garrison.REMARKS ON TURKEY IN EUROPE. 175MUCHIR-Field- marshal.MOLLAH-Highest degree of clergy and law.MUFTI-Next grade 99NAHIZEHS-Division of the Kazas.NAMAZ-The five prayers:-Sabha namazi, 45 min. before dawn.EnileIkindiOkchamJatci9999999912.40 p.m. (40 min. past the meridian) .between noon and sunset, exactly.20 min. after sunset.2 hrs. 20 min. after sunset.There is no possibility of giving the exact time, as the Osmanschange their time with the sun, and divide the twenty-four hoursinto two watches of twelve hours each, counting from sunset tosunset. This is twelve o'clock à la Turca, as it is called.Thus, supposing the sun set at 6 p.m. , our 7 p.m. à la Francawould be one o'clock à la Turca, and so on. The clocks musttherefore all be set every day, to keep proper Moslem time.ORDOU, corps d'armée.PADISHAH, title of the Sultan-Royal Protector.Francis I.of France was the first to whom this title was ever awarded.RELIGIONS:-MOSLEM, number ing 5,910,000 souls .GREEKCATHOLIC22"JEWS 999,650,000 ""680,000 ""60,000 99 (low estimate).TSINGANI TZINGARES 80,000 99 (high estimate) .SHEIKH-UL-ISLAM-(Interpreter of the Law) . Head of theIslam, after the Sultan.SUNNITES-Orthodox believers , in opposition to theSHIITES, or followers of Ali, who regard the first three Kalifs,Abu-bekir, Omar, and Osman, as intruders , and believe thedescendants of Ali to be the legitimate successors of the throne,to the exclusion of the Abassides and Omniades.TATARS. From three colonies: 1 in the Dobrudscha; 2, nearBroussa; 3, at the mouth ofthe Kizil- Irmak, the ancient Halys.TANZIMAT, the new administrations in force since the HattiSherif of Gulhanèh, November 3, 1839.176 GUIDE TO TURKEY.VACOUFS Property set aside for the maintenance ofmosques and religious foundations. In addition to the propertyoriginally assigned to the priests and mosques, the same hâstaken place in Turkey as it has in all countries, from Englandto Abyssinia, remarkably exemplifying the proverb, " l'histoirese répète." The insecurity of property, owing to an arbitrarygovernment and the rapacious hordes of banditti, induced theMoslems to place their lands and estates under the protection ofthe church, and handing over to it the fee- simple, merely toreserve the usufruct to themselves and direct male descendants.Land thus acquired was held ever afterwards in mortmain.Exempt from taxation and personal confiscation, their value haslargely increased, and very nearly five- eighths of the whole soilof the Turkish empire in Europe, and much in Asia, is in thepower of the Church. For on the death of any of the originalowners, supposing they died childless, the whole of his propertyreverted to the mosque. This vast accumulation of propertyrendered the clergy so powerful and intolerant, that they havealways been the chief obstacles in the way of reform. Thesystem, however, since the Crimean war has undergone considerable modifications.VALI or VALI PASHA-Governor- General of an Eyalet.Additional Terms and Notes.KISMET It is written . It is fated. The same as Lord J.Russell's device, Che sarà, sarà, " what is to be, will be."FANTASIE-Rejoicing of any kind.KEF-The Turkish " dolce far niente; " quiet enjoyment ofanything.HAKIM-BASHA, doctor.BUSHMAKANDIS, engineer.Koi, village. Kadi-koi, village of the Kadi Arnaout-koi-ofthe Albanians.DAGH, mountain. KARA DAGH, black mountain.KAWAS, policeman; personal attendant of the Consuls.GASDALIK-Billeting travellers upon the inhabitants of atown or village.REMARKS ON TURKEY IN EUROPE. 177RAYAH-Christian or Jewish subject of the Porte.MUEZZIN-Guardian of a minaret, and caller of the faithfulto prayer; hence the Italian proverb, " Campane di carne, chiavedi legno, sempre una mascherata.”wood, an eternal masquerade. )the women always veiled.KHAN-Turkish inn.KHANGI-Turkish inn- keeper.(Bells of flesh, keys ofKeys are often of wood;TSCHEKMEDJEH.-Bridge. Often the name of a place, asKutschuk; Buyuk- Tschekmedjeh.KIRADGI-Turkish or Bulgarian horse-owner; letter- out ofhorses.AGIOGATI.-Greek or Albanian ditto .N178 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XV.Rustzuk to Constantinople, via Tirnova, Philippopel andAdrianopel.I.-Rustzuk to Filibe, or Philippopel.Distance, 159 miles.Seven Days.1231 day: from Rustzuk to Biala, 23 m.Bialaཔ99 Tirnowa, 27 m.Tirnowa་4 9999 "" 99 Gabrowa, 25 m.""567 5 99 ""GabrovaKezanlyk22 Kezanlyk, 22 m."" Kalifer, 22 m.6 ""22 ""Kalifer ,, Karatoprak, 22 m.Karatoprak to Philippopel, 16 m.Total 159R=right. L=left. W.E.N.S -west, east, north, south. Op-opposite.BULGARIA, through which part of our route lies , is one of theSlavonic provinces of Turkey, and its inhabitants present acomplete contrast to their neighbours, the Servians, to whomwe shall afterwards refer. They appear, for the first time inhistory, about 600 years before their arrival on the banks ofthe Danube. A large number entered Armenia, 120 B.C.,and had an extensive territory assigned to them by Arsaces I.on the banks of the Araxes. Hereupon they completely disappear till the year 485, when Bishop Eunodius mentions theiremigration to the left bank of the Danube, They remained formore than a century in the present Moldo-Wallachian principalities. After the death of their king, Kowrat, they separated,ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 179and the chief portion crossing the Danube and occupying thecountry which has retained the name of Bulgaria, founded apowerful kingdom (679) , which was first of all subdued by theByzantine Emperor, 1019, and about three centuries later, bythe Turks in the battle of Koçowo. The Bulgarians, however,though at present completely Slavonicised, are of Hunnicorigin, coming from a country alternately called Great or BlackBulgaria, situated on the banks of the Volga, from whichGregoros derives their name. They became, however, entirelyassimilated to the Slavonic nations they already found occupyingthe territory they had taken possession of; and it is certain thatever since the ninth century they spoke the Slavonic language,in which they were allowed by the Pope to conduct theirreligious services ( 867) . Scarcely any traces of an Ugrian, orHunnic element are to be found in it; and though there besome few physical peculiarities by which they differ in appearance from their Slavonic neighbours, nothing definite can bededuced from the fact. The Bulgarian is essentially of apeaceful disposition, is agriculturist, easily satisfied, and themost loyal of all the Turkish subjects; although it is true thathis loyalty is more of a passive description, and it would be noless difficulty to induce him to take up arms for the Porte thanagainst it. The province proper of Bulgaria does not containmore than one- fifth of the Bulgarians. They occupy by farthe greater portion of Rumelia, south of the Balkan, to thelitoral of the Mediterranean, where they have been displacedby the Greeks. Until lately the Greek patriarchs in Constantinople were the Bulgarian metropolitans; now the ecclesiastical affairs are conducted by a native, nominated by theBulgarians themselves, and approved of by the Sultan.The agricultural aspects of the country vary with its latitude.North of the Balkan, the chief product is Kokorutsch, maize.Of trees, the chief are oak, and especially wild pears in quantities, the fruit of which is used for an excellent kind of compôte.South of the Balkan, we have rice, roses for the otto of roses,tobacco, oaks, plantains, and mulberry trees . Silk and cotton areboth extensively produced.N 2180 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Travelling in Bulgaria is naturally attended with difficulties ,and no one in search of luxuries had better venture there underpenalty of feeling extraordinarily well and healthy after thesevere course of diet and exercise he will have to follow. Inpreparing for this route, or in fact for any in the interior of thecountry, the equipment, or part of it, according to individualrequirements, to which we alluded in the preliminaries, page 17,are necessary. Do not let yourself on any account be persuadedto take a waggon any part of the way. If you do, your boneswill be shaken up beyond all possibility of a rearrangement.It will be best to buy a horse, or as many as you require, andsell him at your journey's end. Having done this, you will haveto engage aTatar, or courier. These Tatars, on the whole, forma most serviceable and valuable class. They have a regularguild of their own, under the rule of a Tatar Agassi at Constantinople, who is generally paid about £5 for the hire of oneof them. They themselves are paid about five shillings a day,besides their food and their horse's. This will not amount tomore than two shillings a day for both; and then at the journey'send, if he has conducted himself satisfactorily, you will haveto give him a "baksheesh " of one or two ducats-say £ 1 .They are reliable, excellent riders , generally speak three or fourlanguages, and are passably honest. Should there be no Tatarat Rustzuk, you had better inquire of the Prussian Consulwhat to do. There used to be a man named Rossi at Rustzuk,but a native of Aeneos, who is well acquainted with the countryand language, and is moderate in his demands. Now, assumingthat you have made all your arrangements, in which you willbe willingly assisted by any of the English officials on therailway, who will be glad to render you any service in theirpower, we will commence our journey.On leaving Rustzuk, the view of the town, with its gardensand mosques, the broad river flashing through now and then inthe gaps, is very pretty, and decidedly more so in the distancethan close to it, as is the case in all Turkish towns. The roadlies at some distance from the river Lom, which falls into theDanube at Rustzuk, and passing the villages of Guleli on theROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 181opposite bank, and Dolab in the hollow to the right, we arriveat Bassaraba, or Mostraba. A village will often have one ortwo names, and the traveller be in doubt what village is nearwhen it is named to him, and most likely at once assume thathis map is wrong. Most, however, in Mostraba signifies bridgein the Slavonic language; hence, though no two maps will agree,some assigning two villages to the two names and others onlyone, the fact is they are both one and the same. We are nowabout four and a half miles distant from Rustzuk, and in ashort time cross the Lom, the village of Kadikoi, about fivemiles off to the L. Thence, branching slightly to the W., withKoschula a mile to the L., we pass, three miles further on, andtwo miles to the L. , Gül Tschesme, a solitary khan, taking itsname from a neighbouring spring, the Fountain of Roses, andin about half an hour's time (three miles) arrive at Tersenik.Two and a half miles beyond we cross a river, on which, in thevalley to the L., lies the village of Brettanonk. The countrynow becomes a little more varied and pleasing; wild pear-treesscattered about the fields break the monotony of the scene.From the fruit of these trees the natives prepare an excellentcompôte. We now pass over another stream, through the villageof Obirten, four and a half miles from Tersenik, whence anotherfour miles bring us to the two villages of Upper and LowerMonastir. The road passes through Lower Monastir; but thetraveller should make a détour to Upper Monastir, behindwhich, near the wood, rise a couple of Tumuli, those peculiarmementos of bygone times forming a characteristic featureof Bulgaria. They are doubtless the graves of the ancientinhabitants, perhaps before the present race ever made its appearance in this latitude. Another stretch of four and a thirdmiles brings us to the little town ofBiala,Twenty-three and a half miles from Rustzuk, where we takeup our quarters for the first day. The Khan here is bad, so thetraveller had best proceed to the Konak, or divan of the Mudir,182 GUIDE TO TURKEY.who in 1863 was a certain Mehmed Bey, and will advise himwhat to do. Biala, which name signifies " the white, " numbersabout 600 houses, nearly 500 of which are inhabited by Bulgarians. A Frenchman has built a mill here, and if he be stillin existence, will no doubt be glad to see a European face. Onleaving Biala the next morning, instead of following the highroad which passes the Yantra soon afterwards, we take a nearerroad to the left, along the R. bank of the Yantra. The roadturns up the slope to the S.S.E., and then to the W. up thebare hill- side. The top of the plateau is covered with lowscrub and brushwood; and the road, such as it is, descends intoa sort of gorge, which is not altogether very safe; so keep youreyes open. However, still descending, we soon leave the village ofKossowa on the right, just behind the hills, and Karinda onthe left. About two miles further on we pass a spring at thehill- foot on the left, and half a mile beyond, between a coupleof Tumuli, the one to the left being crowned by a large blockof stone. Just before these Tumuli the river Yantra, on theright, divides into two arms. The country is rather more hilly;but we soon enter an open valley, and, keeping close to theriver, cross it at the village of Radan. The river is hereabout 100 yards wide, and 2 by 3 feet deep, between high banks(8 feet) of conglomerate. Before arriving at Radan, we pass thetwo villages of Trembesch and Kossowa on the left bank. AtRadan a road branches off to SISTOVA, on the Danube, aboutfourteen miles distant; the village itself is a miserable hole,but there is a good deal of traffic going on. The countrybecomes more pleasing and clothed with foliage; the hills riseto a great height. Three miles from Radan we pass the villageof Senevsa to the right, Owansa further to the north, andshortly afterwards arrive atthe Khan of Odali, which lies ata little distance to the left, inthe midst of its gardens at thefoot of some small hills, which are cultivated with the vine.The grapes are not bad. We should advise the traveller tohave a rest here, about half way to Tirnova. Leaving the Khan,instead of following the main road, we turn off to the right, thevillage of Kutchina on the right, and slightly ascending throughROUTE XV. - RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 183green pasture lands , and on the slope of the height arrive atthree Tumuli, and on the comb at two more. We then descendto the village of Borush on the left, and, passing a copiousspring, again walk between two large Tumuli, the one to theleft again surmounted by a block of stone, soon after which weleave the village of Mugrashly to the left, and arrive atPolykratsia at the entrance of the pass leading to Tirnova.Pass by the village, and make a halt at the Khan of Sevis-koi,where you will have a beautiful view of the village, the Balkanand the monastery of Sfeti Troiza just peeping out of theluxuriant foliage on a height at the foot of the steep declivity.We then continue along a brook, and presently along theYantra itself (L.) , past an old mill, the ruins of a castle,and a second monastery. Prevezena is in as romantic a situationas the former one. Both of these monasteries are inhabited bythirty to fifty- six monks. The road now ascends some highground above the river, but very soon descends again to thelevel of the water, when we soon recommence the ascent,through a wild, barren, mountainous landscape, towards Tirnova,of which we soon perceive the former Greek church, at presentconverted into a Turkish mosque-the usual fate of Christianchurches in the East. On entering the town of27 miles from Biala,Tirnova,We follow the chief street to the Jeni- Khan, and, owing toits peculiar position on the Yantra's steep rocky banks, enter atthe second story, leading the horses downstairs into the stablestowards the river-side. Tirnova is one of the most remarkablysituated towns in Turkey, as will be seen by the accompanyingplan.GUIDE TO TURKEY.13184251. Yantra.2. Kurshunli Djami.3. Ruins.4. Episcopal Palace.5. Yantra.6. Vladika- Köprüsü .7. Jeni Khan.8. Pasha's Konak.9. Saratchilar Djami.10. Tchan Tepesi.11. Meadow-fine scenery.12. Ghazi Ferush- Bey- höprüsü.13. Yantra.14. Fort.ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 185It is built on the windings of the Yantra, which twistsabout in a most peculiar fashion. A remarkable rocky ridge ,round which the river runs, divides the Christian from theMoslem quarter, and was formerly the strongest part of the town. But now only a remnant of earlier fortifications is to beseen on the N.N.E. end; but the height (100 ft . ) and steepnessof the rocky rampart constitute a natural bulwark of considerable strength. The south end rises to a hill of some 500 ft.high; the Tschan- Tepesi, so called from the bell- tower formerlyconstructed upon it, affords an excellent view of theremarkable configuration of the country. The slope towardsthe river discovers some excellent marble strata. Descendingthis slope towards the Vladika Köprüsi, and, crossing thebridge, we ascend the hills towards Arnaout-koi, where we haveanother excellent view. In the Moslem quarter there areseveral delightful little genre pictures; a caffé overhanging thebanks of the river, tumble- down houses and trees, which wouldmake the fortune of a painter, and a handsome bridge, theGhazi-Ferush- Bey- Köprüsi. Tirnova was formerly the residenceof the Bulgarian kings, and is still the seat of a bishop. French,Austrian, and Russian Consuls are also appointed here; forBulgaria is one of the chief provinces foreign powers havechosen to conduct their intrigues in.The Pasha in 1864 was Hassan Taksim Pasha. His Konakis in the old town, and marked on the plan.Leaving Tirnowa, the road lies along the Yantra, and passingthe village of Marionopoli, on the L., enters the narrow valleythrough which the Yantra meanders in sluggish bends, andnamed by the natives Demir- Kapu, or Iron Gate, one of themost important strategic entrances to the Balkan. The gorgeis not long; but the sides are steep, and clothed with luxuriantfoliage. On issuing from it, we enter upon a marshy plain,formerly doubtless the basin of a lake whose waters graduallyhollowed out the pass through which we have just ridden.We now cross a bridge, Ozun- tchan Köprüsi, and leave theriver behind about a mile before its confluence with the Drenowka, when it branches off to the right. We pass the village of186 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Debualtsa, and again descend to the Drenowka, along whichwe continue, crossing and re- crossing it several times, till wearrive at Katrandji- koi, nine miles from Tirnowa, amidstextensive vineyards . Here we leave the river to the left, andcontinue along the heights till we see the houses and minaret,which we soon reach, of the little town of DRANOWA, 12 milesfrom Tirnowa, situated in the low lands on the river- side. It isa town of about 500 houses, and the seat of some little silktrade. The streets are horribly paved, and the roofs of thehouses covered with enormous slabs of slate two to three inchesin diameter. Outside the town we cross the Drenowka, whichbranches off to the right, and ascend the valley, the height ofwhich we reach about three miles distant from Dranowa, wherewe have another view of Tirnowa. On descending, we passthe village of Kumane, and cross a brook coming out of thevalley and feeding a couple of mills. The scene is very pretty ,and a khan to the right invites repose and the indulgence of acup of coffee. Again we ascend, and on the plateau pass acouple of beklemesi or guard- houses. These beklemesi orkaraouls are generally square-built structures, sometimes ofwood and sometimes of stone, with a terrace running round thesecond storey, and erected to protect the road against robbers.The traveller can always procure a cup of coffee from thesoldiers stationed in them. The landscape consists of barren,rounded mountain-tops , interspersed with groups of oak andbeech. Numerous ferns fringe the edges of the streams,proving our gradual ascent. On the edge of the plateau wepass through the village of Haratcheri, in midst of its orchardsof quince and walnut trees; and, about two miles beyond,Kobtchelet in a similar position. Another two miles and a halfbrings us toGabrowa,25 miles from Tirnowa, just before which we again join theYantra. The town is built along the river, which is crossed bysix bridges, four stone ones, and contains about 1,200 houses,nearly all occupied by Bulgarians. The bazaar is very fair:ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 187the shops all projecting into the street, however, renders itmuch narrower than it would otherwise have been. Straps,saddlery, and other leather articles are the chief staple . Thereis a good view of the place from the Campanile. The travellerwill most likely take up his quarters here for the night; thepasha, in 1864, was Caimakam Izzet Bey.Directly after leaving the town, we cross the Yantra, a valleyand path on the left reaching to the monastery of Sakol orBogoroditza, i.e. , " Mother of God, " and passing a tumbledown gipsy smithy, after three- quarters of a mile, cross abridge, Tchoban Koöprüsi, near which the valley divides intotwo arms. A short way beyond we take final leave of theYantra, which rises about three miles to the right, near thevillage of Yekeladje, and then pass a khan, where we commenceto ascend in earnest, the road clothed and overhung on bothsides by luxuriant foliage and a variety of plants . In abouthalf an hour we reach the first terrace and a bekleme, betweenwhich and the next one, Orta Bekleme, we have a view of themonastery of Bogoroditza, in the depths below on the L. AtOrta Bekleme itself, we have another and final view of Dranowa.We then wind along the wood, thinned out on the R. for safetyfrom robbers, till we arrive at the last ascent before reachingthe comb of the Balkan, 4,860 feet high. On the ridge we firstpass the Bash Bekleme, and then, on the southern slope , theKezanlyk Bekleme. Besides these two guard-houses, thepassage of the comb, which is not more than 2,500 yards wide,is defended by three bastions . The view into the Za-gora, orTrans- Balkan, is very fine. Descending through and past variousgorges for about ten to fifteen minutes, we turn slightly to theL., and see the peak of Stara Plene or Buyuk Dagh, and in afew minutes more arrive at TSCHIPKA, a town of about 1,200houses, chiefly Bulgarian. Of this place a well-known travellerrelates: " Here I was for the first time a witness of the filthy,disgusting practice in feeding pigs, which alone justifies theMoslem in regarding both the animal and those that eat itsflesh as abominations. Passages are purposely made to leadunder the closets, where the swine devour the human excrements189 GUIDE TO TURKEY.provided for them. " We now descend into the plain, teeming with orchards of fruit and walnut trees , plantations of roses,and lovely groups of sycamores and beech interspersed around.Passing through the rose-bushes, we soon see a group oftumuli, two large and three smaller ones . The nearer weapproach Tehas-koi, the more luxuriant does the landscapebecome, presenting one mass of rose- trees-a fact explaining thename the Turks give to this plain, GUL-TEKNE, the Basin ofRoses, overshadowed by enormous, beautifully grown walnuttrees . The value of the nuts grown in the district or Kaza ofKezanlyk is said to amount to £24,000 yearly. Plum or prunetrees are also grown here in abundance, and the fruit is extensively used in preparing a kind of damson cheese, named' pastil, " which keeps for years. Maize, barley, and wheatare produced in large quantities; the wheat is valued at1,200,000 francs yearly (£48,000) . Tobacco is also grown.Tchas-koi is inhabited solely by Moslems, a fact attributable to the love of the Osmanlis for the beauties of nature.66Four miles beyond, following the course of a tributary of theTundja, bring us to KEZANLYK, an excellent place to make one'shead-quarters for excursions in the neighbourhood. The distance from Gabrowa to Kezanlyk is 22 miles . Roads branchoff from here to Adrianople and Philippople direct, viâ EskiSagra. We, however, follow another route to the W., alongthe Tundja for the present. The neighbourhood of Kezanlykis very beautiful; numerous villages are scattered around, towhich the inhabitants of the towns repair during the summer,especially the warm baths of Lüdja, which we shall afterwards pass. There is another route to Tirnowa, leading throughthe valley of Ketchi-Dere, at the eastern foot of the Stara Plene,a very romantic gorge, and, besides this, a shorter route to theold capital.The town contains about 16,000 inhabitants, of which theproportion of women to men is as eight to six, a fact whichexplains the bad reputation the females generally enjoy (sic) inthe neighbourhood. The town is occupied in common by theOsmans and Bulgarians, without any distinct separation ofROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 189quarters in general, however, the Osmans live to the east andthe Bulgarians to the west of the Campanile. The formernumber about 700 families , and the latter 1,600; there are alsoa good many Jews and Armenians generally occupied in buyingup the otto of roses , which is fabricated here to a considerableextent,* though by no means equal to its former production.The diminution is caused bythe excessive tax upon it (gülzaghi) .The Mudir, in 1864, was Halil Ibrahim Bey.Leaving Kezanlyk, we take a westerly direction between theBalkan and the Karadja Dagh. Just outside the town we passa convent, towards the building of which the Russian Government contributed 6,000 piastres. About 1 mile further on, theroad leads to the village of Harman Koi; to the left arise thepeaks of Uruslar Dagh and Sunetlar Dagh. We now cross atributary of the Tundja, and, a mile further on, the latter riveritself; following it on the right, past the ruins of a castle apparently of Roman date, continuing our way, the river to theright, the mountains to the left, we pass Sarhanne, on the otherside of the river; then Karagikly, and arrive at the baths ofLüdja, one of the thermal springs we so often find testifying tothe volcanic nature of the S. side of the Balkan. The nameitself is derived from the Greek λovrpa, in the same manner asso many others retain the Roman appellation, balnea, in themodern Banya. Lüdja is nothing else but a bath, and, consequently, has not even the word Koi (village) affixed to it . Thereis not a single house here; nothing but two solid stone buildings,surmounted by a dome, one for males, the other for females.The temperature of the female bath is 40° Réaumur at thespring, 39° in the basin itself; that of the male bath, which issome distance from the spring, only 34°. They contain a littlesulphur. The scenery round about is very fine; on the right wesee a deep gorge of the Balkan, called the Buyuk- Kuru- dere,and, a little further on, a romantic chasm, which we shall afterwards visit.

• The value of the otto of roses produced in the district of Kezanlyk amounts to

about 600,000 francs yearly-£24,000.190 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Groups of sycamores stand around the baths, beneath whoseshade the bathers repose, and imbibe the coffee which a kavadjifrom Karagikly prepares for their benefit.Half a mile further on we ford the Tundja, in which somecare is requisite, as the river is very rapid, and over 3 feet deep at the ford itself. The best place to ford it is opposite a groupof open buildings for the fabrication of otto of roses . To theleft, on a spur of the Karadja Dagh, the village of Melemes, andnearly opposite on the right, Albasha, we arrive , 5 miles distantfrom Lüdja, at Kudareshi, in the midst of gardens and numbersof magnificent walnut-trees, some of which are nearly 100feet high-a fact explaining the frequent presence of timbermerchants from Europe. Here we advise the traveller to havehis dinner, and, whilst it is being prepared, to make an excursionto the gorge in the S. side of the Balkan, called Monastir Deresi.Asharp ride of two miles brings us to the village of Buyuk Obai,whose slender minaret forms a conspicuous object in the distance, with the symmetrical form of the Koyandjakara for abackground in the E. Salt mines were worked here formerly. Theentrance to the gorge, over débris and occasional blocks of basalt,is very fine; it is pretty broad, but towards the head is narrowed into a peculiar, projecting, rocky tongue, similar to oneon the route from Konjitza to Mostar. At the foot of thistongue lie the remains of a solid square building, the"Monastir, " or monastery, which has given its name to thegorge, but which, in all probability, was formerly a Roman orByzantine fort for the protection of the passage, as is amplyproved by the alternate layers of regularly hewn stones and still excellent mortar. It is possible that it was also once usedas a monastery, which would reconcile its present name with itsapparent original purpose. The view from the top of the tongueis wild and characteristic in the extreme: the waters of thebrook, an accessory of the Tundja, foam and chafe through therocky passage, narrowed and overhung by the steep rocks andprecipices on both sides, and give the whole scene an appearancefully justifying the name the Greek Bulgarians give itTartaros.ROUTE XV. - RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 191We now return to Kudareshi, in order to proceed to Kalifer,our head-quarters for the night. There is a path leading directfrom this gorge over the mountain in the W. to Kalifer and thepresent monastery of Monastir on the other side, but it is saidto be impracticable for horses. There is very little doubt butthat the monks of this latter place formerly occupied a house onthe ruins we have just seen, and afterwards migrated to the W.,nearer the town of Kalifer, as being more approachable. Wenow continue for about seven miles in an almost straight linedue W., past the villages of Daimushlar and Oktchülar on theL., crossing the Tundja, to the town ofKalifer,Filling up a narrow valley at the foot of the Yakmurdjar. Theriver runs through the town in a deep bed, turning numberlessmill-wheels belonging to the thread and worsted factories, givingthe whole an appearance of industry rather rare in Turkey.The town contains about 3000 houses.The traveller can either remain here, or take up his quartersin the monastery further up the valley, 2 miles distant. However, he will run the risk of being refused admission if he shouldarrive at the time of one of the numerous Greek festivals, whenit is crowded with pilgrims and other visitors . At other times,however, the traveller will meet with a cordial welcome from themonks, eight in number, and will find their home an agreeableand comfortable sojourn, whence to examine the vicinity. Thepeak of Mora Geduk, a volcanic mountain, would well be wortha visit, added to which, it is unknown and affords an opportunityfor gaining glory by its ascent.The servant of the monastery, Christo Buzuk, if he still bethere, would be an excellent guide to the vicinity.Leaving Kalifer, we ascend the slope of the valley in which itlies, continue along the plateau for 1 mile, and then descend intothe valley of the Ab- dere, which we cross over a solid bridge,and enter an easy pass, in which we ride for about 1 mile. Wenow pass an extensive burial- ground and several tumuli, besides192 GUIDE TO TURKEY.the remains of some ancient town or village. In the distance tothe N. we perceive the minarets and mosques of Karlowa, fromwhich the whole plain is called " Karlowa- altschan- owasi,” i.e.the plain below Karlowa. We now come to Menteshly, 6}miles from Kalifer, a village deriving its appellation from a manof the same name, to whom and his heirs the Sultan Murad II.had made a present of it for ever, in consequence of which it isstill divided into twenty- seven parts amongst as many of theoriginal owner's descendants. Three miles beyond we come toto Lüdja- Koi, taking its name from a mineral spring 14 miledistant to the S. , which deserves a visit, as the building is ofByzantine origin. There is a very good khan in Lüdja-koi.Continuing our way, we cross a small brook, and 1 mile beyondthe Gök-Su or Blue Waters, also named Rashka, where a roadbranches off to Kôsilar, which gives it name to the range of hillson our right. We now cross a ridge of a slate formation and abrook on the southern foot, on which 1 mile to the right lies thevillage of Mualleh. Then follows a second ridge terminating ina point, at the bottom of which two rivulets join from convergingpoints, at the vale of Tchurkuly on the right. To the left alittle way up the valley at the foot of the Pesnepoi- Tepe, lies theV. of Dere-oba with four tumuli. On issuing from the pass, a hillrises on our right, crowned with the ruins of a castle, Islarkalesi, of which, and one in Philippople, a tradition recounts asimilar tale to that of the Liebenstein and Sternberg on theRhine (see Route I, page 30) . Probably it was the seat of one oftheUgrian- Bulgarian Chieftains, which would explain the presenceof the various tumuli around. The plain now spreads out, andwe pass Hemetly and Haiduc Mahalesi on the right and Begion the left, soon arriving at Dilmen Mahalesi, a village teemingwith mills. The country now becomes desolate and barren. Twomiles further on we pass between two hills , guarded by aBekleme, whence another two miles brings to Karatoprak, 22miles from Kalifer, where the traveller will do best to pass thenight, as the khan is very fair, and it is still 16 miles to Philippople. The village contains about 200 houses; the church isvery neat. Within an hour's time after leaving Karatoprak weROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE . 193perceive the minarets and towers of Philippople in the fardistance. We pass several small villages on either hand, crossthe Kum- Su- Dere, and arrive at Tchirpolu, 11 miles fromKaratoprak, whence we perceive the ancient Trimontium in allthe glory of its lovely situation. Proceeding onwards for about4 miles, the country changes its aspect, and we enter upon theswampy rice-fields of Filibe and Basardjik. Another six milesbring us to Pera, as it is put down in the maps, but, in reality,Keshiak, the suburb of Philippople or Filibe, which we passthrough, and cross the Maritza, the ancient Hebros, and take upour quarters in one of the khans ofFilibe.The present town numbers some 40,000 inhabitants, and fromits peculiar position, built round the bases and sides of threechief hills, was called by the Romans Trimontium. Philip of Macedon founded the ancient town soon after he had builtPhilippi, in the lower valley of the Nestos, to guard the coast, asPhilippople was intended to protect the approaches from theBalkan, thus forming an advanced post which was by no meanslooked upon as offering a sinecure to its governor, and was oftenused as a place of banishment; hence the name often appliedto it, Пovηpóñoλis. After the decline of the Greek Empire, itbecame the capital of Roman Thrace, and even after its destruction by the Goths was still mentioned by Akropolita as TóXISθαυμαστὴ ἄγαν, when it was ultimately destroyed by the Kingof Bulgaria, Joannes Romaioktonos.Following the street leading from Keshiak, we come to one ofthe lower granite hills on which the Campanile, or bell- tower,is built, where we gain an admirable view over the plains andrange of the Rhodope in the S., with the romantic valley ofStemmaka, which Constantine, iepéws ÞiλiññoνñoλITOν, calls theKwμórolis of Philippopolis, and richly merits a visit. Theslopes of the hill are laid out in gardens and terraces, where thebeau monde of the city assemble on holidays and festivals toenjoy the air and the beauties of the scenery.0194 GUIDE TO TURKEY.The Grad, or town proper, is built round and on the easternhill, likewise of granite, and formerly constituted the strongholdof the place. Towards the river it falls down perpendicularlyto a depth of over 100 feet, a low swamp at the foot. From itselevated position, the wealthier inhabitants have chosen it toerect their dwellings on, so as to make them most conspicuous.The western hill would seem to have had a temple, or have beendedicated itself to Herakles; for on a slab on the summit thereis an inscription to him, very badly preserved, it is true, butstill legible in parts.There is not much worthy of especial mention in the town; atleast, nothing that the author met with; but no doubt there aremany remains of ancient times yet to be discovered. Thereis a beautifully sculptured column at the gate leading toAdrianople. The ethnological aspect of the place will be mostinteresting to the traveller. The population is composed ofcirca 11-15ths Moslems, 3-15ths Christians, and 1-15th Jews andGipsies.Filibe is also the head- quarters of a peculiar sect, the Paulinists, who pretend to profess the faith as taught to theirancestors by St. Paul, who is said to have preached here inthe Greek cathedral (well worth a visit) , which is now turnedinto a mosque with a portico and minaret added to it by theOsmanlis. But St. Paul never was here, as far as we are aware.But, be that as it may, the history of the Paulinists, Paulicians,or Paterenes, is so interesting in its connexion with WesternEuropean history, that we will give a slight sketch of it here atit* head- quarters.An Armenian doctor, of the name of Basil, was burnt byAlexis Commenus for his hereticism; and his followers werebanished into Bulgaria, under the name of Bogumilai, whencethey propagated their opinions to various parts of the world,especially into France and Spain. Their dogmas found especialfavour in Spain under the Kings of Arragon and Castile, and,spreading through the northern provinces, were adopted withsurprising rapidity in Southern France, where their professorswere known by the name of Albigenses, from the town of AlbyROUTE XV.--RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 195on the Tarr, in Languedoc. Furthermore, the brothers Valdotook up the new doctrines, and, modifying them in some degree,founded the sect of the Valdenses. Finally they extended intoItaly, where they were known under the name of Patereni.But not only were the professors of this creed confined to thecountries we have mentioned; their doctrines, most in accordancewith the tenets of the primitive church, have been transmittedfrom time to time to all countries, by the means of sects, of adifferent name, it is true, but identical in purpose, such as theNestorians, the Lollards, the Hussites, and Calvinists.In the earlier times they were governed by a primate residingin Bulgaria, to whom the vicars of the various congregationswere responsible. In 1197, when Bosnia was still subject toHungary, the Paterenes received great encouragement fromthe Ban of Bosnia, who, together with his wife and bishop, wasconverted from the Greek Church to their doctrines. Kulin,the Ban, was called to account by Innocent III. , whom, however,he succeeded in pacifying for a time, and still protected all thePaterenes who fled to Bosnia for protection. But in 1200 thePope ordered the excommunication of the bishop, and madestrong representations to the King of Hungary, desiring him toorder Kulin to expel the Paterenes, under penalty of excommunication likewise. Bernard, however, the Bishop of Spalatro, whowas charged with the fulfilment of the sentence against the Bishopof Bosnia, did not dare to publish the ban; and the King ofHungary merely remonstrated with Kulin, who promised toexercise a greater prudence in his protection of the proscribedsect. In 1222, the Bosnian Paterenes elected a primate of their own. From that time till 1437, they experienced alternatesuccess and misfortune; and in 1459 Stephen, King of Bosnia,expelled them from his dominions, to the number of 40,000,who found protection in the Herzegowina, under StephenCossacia. They then disappear as a distinct corporate body,though individually and congregationllay they still continue toexist; and in the present day the traveller will often meet withthem, especially in Bulgaria, Servia, and the Herzegowina.o 2196 GUIDE TO TURKEY.II.Filibe to Edirne or Adrianople.Distance, 95 miles.Days, four.1. Filibe to Kajaly2. Kajaly to Harmanly3. Harmanly to Mustapha Pasha4. Mustapha Pasha to AdrianopleTotal27 miles.3218 9918 ""95 99The road to Adrianople lies between the outliers of theRhodope, on the R., and those of the Balkan on the L., and offerssome fine and romantic scenery in parts . On issuing from thegates of Filibe, we have the Mantza on the L., at some littledistance; and on the R. a path leading to the town and valleyof Stanimak, or Stenimak, the river flowing from which we crossabout 1 mile beyond the gates. To the left lies the valley ofLandos; to the R., 1½ mile off, Tscheschler. Nine miles fromFilibe bring us to Kuruaghatsch, on the L. bank of the Maritza,2 miles to the E. of which we see the town of Doghatsch. Herethe river makes a half- circle round a solitary hill, at the foot ofwhich lies PAPASLY, 15 miles from Filibe, a town of about 3,000inhabitants. The khan here is very fair. The road now runsS.E., closer to the mountains, leaving the river gradually to theN., till we lose sight of it entirely. We pass various villages onthe way, of no importance, till we arrive at Jeni Mahalle(20 miles), and, finally, at our quarters for the night-unlessthe traveller has preferred staying at Papasly or Jeni Mahalleat Kajaly, 27 miles from Filibe.Leaving Kajaly, a ride of 42 miles brings us to Kara Tschesme;4 miles beyond which we come to a small river, and where theroad makes a sudden bend to the S. This bend can be avoidedby taking the path to the L. along the slope of the mountainrange, along which a ride of six miles brings us to CHASKOI, atthe foot of the outspurs of the Usundschah Dagh. Chaskoi isvery prettily situated, has a good khan, and numbers someROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 1974,000 inhabitants . Continuing our way, we arrive at Duraly,4 miles beyond; whence 6 miles more bring us to Kötschendil,a little beyond which we twice cross the rapid Usundji. Thevalley whence this river streams is a very lovely spot, andcontains the village or townlet of USUNSCHOWA, celebrated forits extensive fair, held there in September, when the wholevalley resembles a vast encampment of nearly all the nationsin Europe, and from all parts of Turkey. Germans, Italians,and Swiss are to be found here, disposing of European goods,and receiving in exchange the produce of the country, suchas hides, wool, cotton, leeches, otto of roses, &c. The fair lastsseveral weeks.Seven miles further on we arrive at HARMANLY situated onthe Usundji, which joins the Maritza a little way off to the N.On the right we have the Aighir Oghlu Dagh. A Greek keepsa kind of locanda here, which is, however, no better than thekhan, added to which you will naturally have to pay three timesas much. Harmanly is 32 miles from Hajaly, and 36 fromAdrianople. If the traveller choose, he can split this longstretch into halves of 18 miles, as MUSTAPHA PASHA is situatedjust half-way, and affords good accommodation. The road nowkeeps along the Maritza, at some little distance from it, andcrosses it just before Mustapha Pasha, over a fine bridge ofnineteen arches, and evidently of great antiquity. We nowfollow the left bank of the Maritza, the mountains of KurtkoiKalesi Dagh and Jailadschyk Dagh, with the town ofTSCHIRMEN 1 mile to the R., whence the eyalet takes its namein conjunction with Edirne; sometimes called one, sometimesthe other. Opposite the village of Kadikoi, we see two tumuli,and one mile further on we arrive atAdrianople, or Edirne,Situated on the junction of our old friend, the Tundscha, orTundja, withthe Marizta and the Arda. These rivers, though nodoubt excellent in a commercial point of view, make the townunhealthy from the numerous marshes they form round about,198 .GUIDETO TURKEY.and disagreeable from the number of mosquitos produced ontheir banks.29There is an apology for an hotel here; but the tourist hadbetter trust to the khan. Once the capital of the TurkishEmpire, the town at present offers a deserted , desolateappearance, not unlike the Italian towns of Pisa and " grassgrown Ferrara. Founded by Hadrian, at the time of itsTurkish glory it possessed over 200,000, now 80,000 inhabitants,of which about halfare Osmans, the rest Greeks and Bulgarians .It is the seat of a Greek archbishop. The staple articles oftrade are silk, leather, linen, and especially otto of roses, whichare here cultivated to a great extent; the village of Hisekellies in a perfect garden of roses . There are two serails, fortymosques, twenty-two baths, and twenty-four Medressi, orMahommedan schools, here. Of the mosques the most beautiful, in fact, one of the finest in existence, is the MOSQUE OFSULTAN SELIM. It has four minarets, beautifully fluted, andrising to a height of 140 feet, with three galleries round each .The court in front is paved with large slabs of marble. Theinside is also paved with the same material, and covered withrich carpets. From the roof of the enormous dome, said to betwo feet higher than the Agia Sophia, hang innumerable lampsand ostrich eggs; the walls are decorated with cunningspecimens of Oriental calligraphy, an art that has taken theplace of drawing in the East, illustrating various passages fromthe Koran. In the midst, a fountain provides the faithful withthe water necessary for their ablutions. The colonnades consistof pillars of the richest material-Egyptian granite, verdeantico, and various marbles. The windows are said to number999.The MOSQUE OF SULTAN MURAD also has four minarets andno less than nine domes; the Osmans call it UTSCH SERPELI,the Four Towers.The Bazaar of Ali Pasha is an immense building of alternatelayers of red and white bricks, 600 feet long. The chief passageis protected at both ends by massive portals, and branches offinto four side passages. The view of this bazaar is finer thanROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 199in any of those in Stamboul, and it contains a splendid assortment of jewelry, muslins, silks , otto of roses, &c.The AQUEDUCT should not be forgotten; the Bridge overthe Tundja, the ancient Roman Walls and Gates, the palace ofEski- Serai, outside the town, on the banks of the Tundja, areall of interest, as well as a remnant of a column 12 feet high, onwhich a statue of Hadrian is said to have stood.Hadrian founded this city near an older one, Uskudama, and,as tradition saith, it was here that Orestes found repose and arefuge after his murder of his mother, in consequence of whichthe city is often called Orestias by the Byzantine authors.In 1360 it was conquered by Murad I., and remained the capitalof the Ottoman empire until the taking of Constantinople, afterwhich it was only used to pass some months of the year in ,until Mohammed IV. and Mustapha I. made it their capital,which, however, excited the Janissaries so against them thatthey rebelled, and deposed the obnoxious monarchs. Sincethen, Adrianople has only been the seat of a pasha. In modernhistory, Adrianople has acquired some celebrity from the treatywhich was signed here in 1829, by which Russia gained thoseprivileges on the Danube and the Black Sea which the Crimeanwar cancelled in 1856.III.Adrianople to Constantinople.Distance, 125 miles .Days, five.1. Adrianople to Eskibaba2. Eskibaba to Bergas27 miles.16 993. Bergas to Tschorlu 27 994. Tschorlu to Silivri..... 25 99Total.......5. Silivri to ConstantinopleOn leaving Adrianople, we have a long stretch of uninterestingcountry, traversed by numerous rivers, and offering nothing of36 99.1251/ 99200 GUIDE TO TURKEY.any interest, to ESKI BABA, on the Teke Deressi, where we canfind a good night's lodging at the locanda of a Greek, prefer- able to the khan.Just beyond the town we cross the river, and 4 miles furtheron reach the village of Alpolu, after which we cross the Kavak,whence a ride of 7 miles, at some distance from the Rema Suto the R., brings us to Sarmusakly. Here the road turnsE.N.E. as far as ARABA BERGAS, a town of some 5,000 to 6,000inhabitants. It derives its name from the Greek Túpуas, tower,and is the seat of an extensive pipe manufacture. Besidespipes, the potters also make gilt jugs, and vases, inkstands, &c. ,which are both cheap and curious —excellent mementos of theplace. Although Bergas is only 16 miles from Eski- Baba, weshould advise the traveller to stay here for the night, and risebetimes to proceed to Tschorlu, a stiff ride of 27 miles , as thereis no place where he can stay before Kares Derbend, a furtherstretch of 14 miles from Bergas, and offering very bad accommodation. However, that is a matter of choice.On leaving Bergas, the road again bends S.E. through similarcountry as that from Adrianople, and at Kares Derbend wecross the Rema- Su. After riding for three miles beyond this latterplace, the road begins to ascend a little, and we cross a plateauabout 3 miles broad, then descending into the valley of theErkeneh to the village of Sandukly. Here we again ascend,and, crossing another plateau, 5 miles in width, descend throughthe ravine to TSCHORLU, a little old town which was one of thefirst that succumbed to the Ottomans in Europe.A ride of 11 miles across a river and two plateaus brings usto Kiniku on the Arably Dere, after leaving which we beholdthe Sea of Marmora, about 4 miles to the right, and, after astretch of 5 miles , gain the high road from Salonik, and continuealong the bay to the town ofSilivri,25 miles from Tschorlu, the ancient Selymbria, with a bridge ofthirty arches, and an old castle well worth a visit. The towncontains about 2000 houses. The khan is good and clean.ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 201Strabo mentions this place, and remarks concerning the termination bria so common in Thrace, and corresponding to theGreek πόλις and the Celtic dunum: -Τήν δέ πόλεως βρίας καλουμένης Θρακιστί.On the road to Constantinople we often see the remains of theRoman via, paved with black marble, resembling basalt.Small tumuli in pairs on either side mark the distance withgreat regularity. We now ride close along the coast, and,after a distance of fifteen miles, arrive at Buyuk Tschekmedji,or Ponte Grande, as the Italians call it, before which we crossthe series of four bridges over the marshes communicating withan arm of the sea, and after which the town (where the touristhad better pass the night) takes its name. It was in the vicinityof this place, near the village of Chettos, that the old Belisardefeated the Bulgarians in 559, and rescued Constantinople fromthe danger of an invasion by them. Five miles further on wecome to Kutschuk Tschekmedji, or Ponte Piccolo, which,however, is only a stone dyke leading over the marshy ground.The village of the same name is a small hamlet on the sea- side,in a most unhealthy position, infested by mosquitos andmalaria. Seven miles more bring us to the walls of STAMBUL,near to the spot where Mohammed effected his entrance, andthus gave the coup de grace to the Byzantine Empire.Constantinople.I.It is impossible to enter into a history of Constantinople here:that would entail the history of the Ottoman Empire altogether.But the following dates and notes will refresh the reader'smemory on some of the most important points, and give an ideaof the chief events that took place within its walls.About the year660 B.c. some natives of Megara founded a colony on the spotwhere the Agia Sophia and Serail now stand, andnamed it Byzance.202 GUIDE TO TURKEY.340 B.C. The new colony assisted the Athenians against Philipof Macedon. In revenge, the Macedonians besiegedByzance, and, so runs the story, during the siege anight attack was planned, which was happily frustratedby the rising of the new moon, and the consequent discovery of the storming party. The Byzantians, to commemorate this event, ordered a crescent to be stampedon the coinage-a symbol afterwards taken by theOsmans. Then comes the Roman conquest, and thealteration in the name of the place from Byzance toConstantinople, by Constantine, in330 A.D. , becoming the seat of the Eastern Empire. Aftervarious sieges by the barbarians, Persians, and Avares,the Saracens appeared in672, but were repulsed. In the spring of the next year,673, the Saracens made a second attempt, but lost so many oftheir ships by Greek fire and shipwreck off theScyllæan Promontory, that they concluded a peace withthe emperor, on condition of their being allowed toretain the provinces they had conquered, paying a tributeof 3,000 lbs. of gold, 50 slaves, and as many choice Arabsteeds yearly.Soon afterwards the Bulgarians appeared on the scene, overrunning Thrace and defeating the army sent against them, in consequence of which they were allowed to settle in LowerMosia, whence they have extended themselves to their presentlimits. However, war again soon broke out between them andthe emperor, which was carried on with varied success, till in984-6 they were entirely reduced by Daphnomelus, under thereign of Basilius II. During this interval, the Saracenshad made several ineffectual efforts to enter Constantinople,and, owing to internal divisions, lost many oftheir newlyacquired provinces for a time. Then the Turks or Osmansappeared, and, after a rapid succession of conquests, firstentered Europe in1292, and continued to ravage Thrace, but were ultimatelyutterly routed in the Chersonesus. InROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 2031358 they again crossed the Hellespont under Soliman, andunder his successor, Amurad, soon reduced all Thrace,making Adrianople the capital. In1392-3 Bajazet I. invested and besieged Constantinople, butwas ultimately taken prisoner, and his army routed byTamerlane, against whom he had proceeded into Asia,after having raised the siege. In1424 Constantinople was again besieged by Amurad II. , buteventually was forced to raise the siege and proceedagainst other enemies who had risen against him.Especially disastrous was his campaign against Belgrade,where he was repulsed and defeated with great loss byHunyady. Still in1448 Hunyady was completely defeated in a battle, which wasthe first death-blow to Constantinople . The emperor wasforced to pay a tribute of 300,000 aspers yearly.1453, April 6, Mohammed, son of Bajazet, laid siege to the city;and on Tuesday, May 29, it was taken by general assault,Constantine the Emperor killed, and the city given upto plunder.1454 Servia was invaded by Mohammed, and forced to pay anannual tribute of 4,000 ducats. He afterwards attackedBelgrade, but was repulsed by John Hunyady.1459 Greece was subdued by Mohammed, and1461 made peace with Scanderbeg, who continually defeatedthe troops sent against him.1466 Scanderbeg died, and Epirus and Albania were subdued.1481 Mohammed died, succeeded by Bajazet II.1509 Great earthquake at Constantinople.1512 Bajazet was murdered by his second son, Selim.1518 Selim subdued Egypt, and died; succeeded in1519 by his son, Soliman I. , who in1520 took Belgrade;1522, December 25, Rhodes;1528 99 Buda;1540, reduced Hungary to a Turkish province;1566, died, and was succeeded by Selim II.204 GUIDE TO TURKEY.1571 Osmans defeated by Doria, in the battle of Lepanto, andtheir fleet destroyed, with a loss of 32,000 men.1574 Selim died; succeeded by Murad III. , who at oncestrangled his five brothers , which so affected themother of Soliman (one of them) that she stabbed herself to the heart. “At which tragical sight, it is said,Murad let fall some tears, " as the chronicle hath it.1594 He was succeeded by Mohammed III. , who killed 19 ofhis brothers and 10 of his mothers-his father's wives.1603 He was succeeded by Achmed I.1617 Achmed I. died.1618 His successor, Mustapha, reigned only four months, whenhe was deposed, and succeeded by Othman II. , whor*igned four years, and was then strangled by Mustapha, who again came to the throne in1622, but in turn was strangled by Murad IV. , in the sameyear.1640 Murad died, succeeded by his brother Ibrahim, who in1648 was strangled, and succeeded by Mohammed IV.1669 Candia was taken.1683 Siege of Vienna by the Osmans, and their utter defeat.1687 Mohammed abdicated; succeeded by Soliman II.1691 Achmed II. ascends the throne.1695 Mustapha II. ascends the throne.Henceforward Ottoman aggression ceases , and the furtherwars in which the empire has been involved have been wars ofdefence, chiefly against the Russians.aOf the present city, Lord Byron said he knew of no spotwith which he could compare it: it was beyond comparison.You often hear the remark, " Oh! but the Bay of Naples? —oh! but the Bay of Palermo?" and then all the bays ofChristendom and heathendom are run through to furnishcomparison. Nothing is more ridiculous than to lay down thelaw in such manner; for, first of all, individual tastes differ to anotorious degree; and, secondly, in order to compare one thingwith another, it must be identical in character, and both mustpossess similar qualities. In no respect do Naples and Constanti-ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 205nople resemble each other-not even as to lying on the sea- side .Naples is on the open sea, and has got its Vesuvius , which makesthe bay; and Constantinople lies on the straits, and has noVesuvius. In short, every place of picturesque reputation has itspeculiar characteristics, which have gained it a separate, individualcelebrity. The peculiar characteristics of Constantinople areits position, curiously mingling sea, river, and lake scenery, andEastern and Western architecture, European and Asiatic populations, the classic Past, Medieval Ages, and the Present whirlof modern life .The TOWN OF CONSTANTINOPLE is divided into three distinctportions1. The CITY, or STAMBUL proper, on the tongue of landwashed by the Golden Horn on the N., by the Bosphorus on theE., and Sea of Marmora on the S.2. PERA and GALATA on the N. side of the Golden Horn, andW. side of the Bosphorus.3. SCUTARI on the Asiatic shore, and E. of the Bosphorus.STAMBUL is almost entirely inhabited by Osmanlis, with abelt, as it were, of Greeks along the shores. The districts inhabited by Greeks, beginning from the Sea of Marmora, are: -Jedi Kule, Psmatia Kápusi, Jeni Mahalle, Jeni Kapusi,and Kum Kapu. Here they stretch across to the Bezestan andthe Golden Horn. Then past the second bridge they occupy avery narrow strip, finishing with the Fanar Phanar, wherethey are succeeded by the Jews, who occupy a small districtas far as Aiwan Serai, and a portion on the opposite shore,Hasskoi.GALATA is almost entirely populated by Christians, merchantsof all races; and Pera in the ratio of one-third Christians andtwo-thirds Osmalis.SCUTARI is entirely inhabited by Osmanlis.We should advice the traveller not to waste much time inPera. It has no other characteristics than those of seaport townsin general. Low French concert-halls, German or Tyrolesesinging- girls, an inferior theatre , and any amount of voluptuousvice constitute the petty fast life of its inhabitants, in which206 GUIDE TO TURKEY.the strenuous endeavours of all amusem*nt and other procuratorsto grab wealth together are more conspicuous and revoltingthan in any other capital of the world. It is refreshing, atleast morally, to turn away from the tawdry tinsel glare of Perato the more solemn quarters of the Osman, where the materialfilth and dirt of the street is far surpassed by the moral quagmire in which the Frank quarter is steeped . A well-knownproverb says: -In Pera sono tre malanniPeste, fuoco, dragomanni(there are three evils in Pera-plagues, fire, and dragomen);and no saying was ever truer.There is no society in Pera except the Embassy Society,which is recruited from the most respectable portions of thecommunity. A presentation, therefore, at one of the embassiesis necessary to introduce the traveller into the Pera beau monde.Otherwise the various nationalities keep together on a very fairfooting, except, as is everywhere the case abroad, the English,who are always at loggerheads with one another, or split upinto congregations-Presbyterian, Baptist, or into anything thatwill produce dissension.The climate is very healthy; pulmonary diseases are rare.But, on the other hand, heart-disease is rather predominant,attributable most likely to the steep ascents and stair-like streetsleading from the shore to the heights of the town above. Thehills and valleys induce constant currents of fresh air, and theGolden Horn is rescued from stagnation by the brooks Ali Beyand Kiaghat Chana, which pour into it near Eyub. The rapidityof the current flowing from the Black Sea into the Sea ofMarmora amounts to 1 m. an hour opposite Tophana. Theprevalent winds come fromthe N. Rain is most abundant inspring and autumn. The winter commences in December, whensnow sometimes falls, but never remains for any length of time.Spring is the most disagreeable season, subject to frequentnortherly winds from the Balkan-the Kara- Sell, as they arecalled . As far as diet is concerned, it would be advisable toROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 201avoid eating too much fruit at first, and to abstain from drinkingunmixed water. The specialities of Constantinople are:—-Rahat- .Lakoum, Lumps of Delight, and all kinds of sweetmeats, especially Halwar, a drab- looking mass, made of almonds, honey, oil,and sesame- seed, which is eaten to a very great extent. TheDardanelle wines are bad; Cyprus is the best and mostgenerally used. Tobacco is excellent and cheap; the finestsorts are the Jenidje and Trebinje growths.Constantinople.II.The first thing to do on arriving in port is to choose the hotelyou intend going to. For this purpose we will enumerate thechief houses in Pera. First of all comesMISSIRI'S HOTEL, where the English generally go. It is alarge hotel in the Grande Rue de Pera, and well situated nearthe post-offices, and the Dancing Derwishes, next door but oneto the Levant Herald office, and three doors off from the bookseller's, Mr. Weiss. At the same time it has a desolate sepulchral appearance; the walls of the dining and sitting rooms aremade of doors and windows alternately, and there is a generalgloom pervading the whole establishment. The only advantageto be gained by going there and paying 18s. a day is that youare sure to meet the greater part of the English tourists in Constantinople.HOTEL DE BYZANCE, in the Grande Rue, opposite the DutchEmbassy: 12 fr. per day. Hotel in the French style; very fair.HOTEL DU LUXEMBOURG, also in the Grande Rue.HOTEL D'ORIENT, in the Petit Champ, with a magnificentview of the Golden Horn.In addition to these hotels , a Swiss, named Baltzer, theowner of a confectioner's shop, the best in Constantinople, hasalso arranged his house for the reception of travellers, whereyou can get excellent board and lodging for 10 fr. daily, includingbreakfast, luncheon, and dinner at 6. Mr. Baltzer is most obliging,and his advice, which, unlike that of the other hotel- keepers,is disinterested, will be invaluable to the traveller. Ask for208 GUIDE TO TURKEY.

• BALTZER'S PENSION . He speaks German, French, and English

well, besides any amount of Oriental languages. His house isabout 40 yards from Missiri's, on the left-hand side . If you haveany difficulty in finding it, go into Mr. Laurie's shop: theowner, an Englishman, will soon put you right. Baltzer's is close by.Having now made up your mind where to go, choose one ofthe numerous touters who are clamouring around you, throwhim your luggage, and give yourself up to him.At the Custom- House a formal search will be made, which youcan make still more formal by a bakshish of a shilling. Thencome the Hamals, or porters, who will mount any quantity ofbaggage on to a kind of saddle they carry on their backs, and setoff through the dirty, intricate streets of Galata, up the steephills, without scarcely staying a moment for breath. The legs ofthese men are a study; the muscles are like knotted cords, as wesee them straining under the heavy load. And yet these menmight say, like the hippopotamus to the young lady, " Whowould think, my dear fragile miss, that you eat plenty of beef and mutton, and I only rice and bread?" For these Hamalsseldom eat anything else except fruit. Meat is a luxury rarelyenjoyed.As the traveller will at once have to commence paying, we willgive a table of the equivalents of foreign money in piastres£15s.2s. 6d.1s.......... ...French Napoleon5 francs1 franc...Russian Imperial"" RubleAustrian DucatPrussian ThalerAmerican DollarPiastres. Paras.... 110 0... ... 27 2013 30... 5 202288240016180 017 2052 0... 16 2024 0:ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 209You pay the boatmen five to ten piastres, according to theamount of luggage. Five ought to be enough; the same tothe Hamal, and eight to the touter.KAIKDJIS,or boatmen. The Kaiks are long, narrow, round-bottomed boats,requiring extraordinary care in getting in and out, or you willvery likely go head over heels into the water. You sit at thebottom, on carpets or cushions, and, when once seated, shootthrough the water with great rapidity. They are the gondolasof Constantinople. In choosing a Kaikdji, always select anOsman or a Negro; they are more reliable and honest than theGreeks. The Kaikdjis form a regular guild, under the protection of St. Noah, and number some 20,000 .The fares from Tophana or Galata, are: —To Scutari, 3 piastres per person.To Kihat- Kaneh, or the Sweet Waters of Europe, 5 piastres.Kadikoi and Ortakoi, 4 piastres.Two-oared boats cost double.Atwo- oared boat can be hired for the day at 40 piastres, withan accessory bakshish of 2 p. each. Hire by the month oftwenty-eight days, about 600 piastres.In addition to the kaiks, steamboats leave from the woodenbridge between Pera and Stambul for the principal station onthe Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. They are cheap, 1 to 4piastres, but are always crowded. They offer, however, a curiouspicture of Oriental life , which well repays the inconvenience.The engineers are generally Englishmen, so you can mostlymanage to secure a seat on the bridge from paddle to paddle.BANKS OTTOMAN BANK; Messrs. Hanson.BRITISH POST-OFFICE, GALATA: DIRECTOR, Mr. Jew.AUSTRIAN POST-OFFICE, RUE DE LA POSTE, PERA: DIRECTOR,Herr von Kletzl.FRENCH POST- OFFICE, RUE DE LA POSTE, PERA: DIRECTOR,M. Astima.P210 GUIDE TO TURKEY.RUSSIAN POST- OFFICE, GRANDE RUE DE PERA: DIRECTOR,M. Jadosaki.TELEGRAPH OFFICE, PERA:(English).DIRECTOR, Mr. MillingenENGLISH TAILOR, DRAPER, ETC.: LAURIE, Grande Rue.ENGLISH STOREROOMS, King's, GALATA, near the GalataTower,MOSQUES.In order to visit the mosques, you must have a firman, whichwill cost 600 to 700 piastres. Your dragoman, or guide, whomyou will have to pay 40 to 50 piastres.a day, will procure it foryou, or else you can have it done through the embassy. Thefees in detail are: -the firman itself, 200 piastres; the Consularkawas, who procures it, 40 piastres; the officer of the Serail,150 piastres; the doorkeeper of the Agia Sophia, 100 piastres;and about 40 piastres for every other mosque. A special firmanis requisite for the Mosque of Eyub.The mosques are divided into two classes, imperial mosques,DJAMI ES SALADEEN, and the chapels or MEDSCHID. Of theformer there are 16; of the latter, over 150. We will commencewith the

• • AGIA SOPHIA, commonly called St. Sophia, but by no

means dedicated to any saint of that name, of which, as far aswe are aware, no saint exists. It was originally built of wood,and dedicated to the Supreme Wisdom of God, by Constantinus,325 A.D. Thirteen years afterwards, Constantinus enlarged it.Under Arcadius, 404 A.D. , it was burnt by the partisans ofJoannes Chrysostomos, and rebuilt on a larger scale byTheodosius II. , in 415. During the revolt of the Hippodromagainst Justinian, in which Belisarius and Narses massacred35,000 of the rebels, it was again burnt down, and re-erected byJustinian in its present form. Twenty years later, the E. halfof the dome fell in, upon which Justinian repaired and renderedit stronger than ever. Since then (568) it has never beendestroyed, though often altered.The architects were Anthemius of Tralles and Isidorus ofROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 211Miletus. The walls, buttresses, and vaults are constructed ofbrick. The church is built in the form of a Greek cross , ofwhich the upper end, as usual, points towards the E. Threesides are surrounded by colonnades, roofed with cupolas.The entrance is on the fourth or W. side. Immediately onentering, we perceive the campanile on the R. , and close to itflows the water from the great cistern, occupying the part ofthe subterranean building with smaller cisterns. Besides thissupply, there are three more fountains-one in the centrecourt, a second outside the wall of the outer court, and a thirdnear the S. minaret. The E. side of the outer court forms thefirst vestibule of the church, into which three portals affordingress -two larger ones at both ends, and a smaller one nearthe old campanile. The inner court, larger and broader thanthe first, has sixteen BRONZE GATES, ornamented with crosses,which have been mutilated by the Osmans. The space betweenis faced with fine watered marble, above which the remains ofthe ancient mosaics are still perceptible. The two side gatesofthe inner court each leads into a vestibule, through which weascend to the gynaikites, women's choir, running round threesides of the church, and 60 feet broad. After descending thetwelve steps from the side gate of the southern front, andascending the gynaikites , as is usually the custom, we see thewhole of the inner church, with its wondrous dome, floating, asit were, in the air, the two accessory half-domes each with threesmaller cupolas in the E. and W., thus forming a nine-domedroof. The central dome, as we have already said , is flat incomparison to its diameter, being only 19 feet high, to adiameter of 115. The middle of the dome is 180 feet abovethe ground; the inner church, 270 feet long and 245 feetbroad.Besides the four large columns supporting the chief dome,there are four more, two in the E. and two in the W., supportingthe three accessory cupolas on each side. These are the eightporphyry columns which Aurelius had taken from the temple atBaalbek. On the N. and S. sides stand, to the R. and L.respectively, the eight pillars of verdeantico from the TempleP2212 GUIDE TO TURKEY.of Diana at Ephesus. The other 24 pillars of Egyptian granite,supporting the galleries in groups of four on each side, form,with the former sixteen, the characteristic forty, so often foundin ancient temples; for instance, at Persepolis. Upon theseforty pillars rest the 60 of the gynaikites, besides which thereare four larger and three smaller ones over the portals, thusforming the mystical number of 107. Most of these pillarswere brought from Athens, the Cyclades, from Sais, Delos; inshort, the whole of the East was ransacked to contributetowards this temple, which was to excel even that of Solomon.The walls and roofs of the domes were formerly covered withmosaic, but have since been concealed by a coating of plasterand quotations from the Koran, of which the one in the chiefdome is the finest—“ God is the light of heaven and earth” —and was written by a celebrated calligraphist, of the calligraphicand cacophonic name, Bitschakjesadeh Mustapha Tschelebi, underMurad IV. The length of the elif is not less than 30 feet.During the Ramadan, the dome is illuminated by thousandsof lamps, and decorated with ostrich- eggs and artificial flowers,and golden cloth waving between the windows of the dome,numbering twenty-four. Nearly opposite the apse stands themimbar, where the prayers for the Sultan are read. The twoflags waving over it denote the conquest of the Hebrew andChristian faiths by the Moslem. The colossal marble basinsstanding between the porphyry pillars from Baalbek werepre sentedby Murad III.Many relics are shown here by the Osmans, such as theCradle of Our Lord, a hollowed-out block of reddish marble;the Tub in which the Virgin bathed her infant Son. TheSweating-stone, to the left of the portal, exudes a moisture possessing wonderful healing properties . The Resplendent Stone,the Stone of Brightness, stands in the upper gallery, oppositeone of the W. cross windows, and is of Persian marble, possessing the property of absorbing light and reflecting the raysof the sun in glittering splendour when shining upon it.Such is the Agia Sophia in the interior. The outside presentsa conglomerate mass of buildings, added during the course ofROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 213centuries, without any system whatever, and above which thefour minarets arise, surmounted by the crescent.The crescent on the dome measures 50 yards from horn tohorn, and is said to have cost 50,000 ducats.MOSQUE OF ACHMED I., or the ACHMEDIEH, is close to theAgia Sophia, and occupies the greater part of the Hippodrom,of which the remainder is now called the At- Meidan, andcontains the obelisk which was thrown down by an earthquakein Egypt, and set up in its present place by Theodosius. Themachines by which it was raised are depicted on the base. It is50 feet high. A little further on, stands a bronze column,formed of three serpents twisted together, minus the heads,and supposed to have been the Tripod of Pythia in Delphi.The third monument is composed of separate stones, and wasformerly covered with copper.The Achmedieh is the largest of all the mosques in Constantinople, was completed in 1614, and is the only one with sixminarets. The four gigantic columns-which, on the outside,appear as so many towers, and support the central dome-are34 yards in circumference. The chief dome is surmounted byfour smaller ones, or cupolas, which are again joined by twoeach. The double galleries are used for the same purpose asthose in the Solimanieh-i.e. , as treasuries . Two enormouscandlesticks stand at each side of the Mihrab, to the R. of whichwe see the Mimbar, a specimen of sculpture vying with anyEuropean work of art, and fashioned after the pulpit in Mecca.It is surmounted by a gilt crown and crescent. The Achmediehcontains a number of curious relics and valuables, the presentsof its founder, Achmed, and others. Amongst them are sixgolden lamps, set with smaragds—a present from DschoferPasha, the governor of Abyssinia. Numerous Korans in costlybindings, and magnificently written, lie on the elaborately embroidered cushions; and on the wall hangs the silken coveringof the Kaoba, which the Sultan receives every year from thecaravan to Mecca, in return for the gifts he annually sends.The great caravan assembles here before its departure toMecca, and on its return. The birthday of the Prophet is also214 GUIDE TO TURKEY.celebrated here by an institution of Murad III. , when there isgreat “ fantasie” and rejoicing . The yearly income of themosque is 710,000 p.MOSQUE OF SOLIMAN THE GREAT, or the SOLIMANIEH, isthe most magnificent work of the Osmans in the climax of theirglory. The architect was a certain Sinan, the most celebratedof the Ottoman Empire. He commenced it in 1550, and concluded it in 1556, after the plan of the Agia Sophia, as, in fact,nearly all the mosques are constructed, thus showing thepoverty of architectural invention in the Osman mind, whichwas and is only great in their peculiar branch of ornamentationwith arabesques and fretwork. The open space before thebuilding itself is the Haram, a space which will be found beforeall mosques of any pretension-the word Haram meaningsomething exclusive, private, or holy. The centre is occupiedby the basin with water for ablutions. On the other side is aburial-place, with mausolea of the founder, his wife andchildren, Soliman II . , and Achmed II. The whole is surrouded by an outer court, the walls of which are 1,000 feet long,and containing ten gates. Of these portals, two lead to the oldSerail; four on the S. are the gates ofthe Medresseh, the Academy,the Market, and the Chief Physician's; three in the W.—theKitchen for the Poor, the Hospital, and the Agha of theJanissaries; finally, on the N., one leading to a bath, whencethere is a magnificent view.There are three gates in the Haram-one opposite the mosque,at an equal distance from the two lower minarets, and one oneach side, near the two higher ones .The great dome, 20 ft . higher than that of Agia Sophia, issupported by four pillars, between which, to the right and left,two on each side respectively are the largest columns in Constantinople, measuring 13 ft . in circumference at the base . They arevery ancient. One was surmounted by a statue of Venus, theother by one of Justinian, and formally stood in the Augusteum.The two others are supposed to be the red columns bearing the statues of Eudoxia and Theodore in the Imperial Palace. Thecapitals of these four pillars are of white marble, and supportROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 215the double gallery in which the various treasuries are situated ,in which private people deposit their cash and valuables forsafety in times of danger. The pulpit, the Sultan's oratory, andthe Mihrab are two gigantic candelabras of gilt metal. Thewindows, of which many are ornamented with coloured flowersor the name of God, were made in the glass factory of SerkisIbrahim, celebrated at the time of the building of this mosque.The yearly income of the Solimanieh is 360,000 p . , the greaterpart of which is consumed in the maintenance of the establishments connected with it, namely, three schools, four academiesfor the four orthodox sects of Islam, the Hanafites, Malikites,Hambalites, and Tchafiïtes, a Medical School, Hospital, PoorKitchen, a Refugefor Strangers, and the Library.MOSQUE OF SULTAN MOHAMMED II. , or MOHAMMEDIEH.After Sultan Mohammed II. had converted the Christianchurches into mosques, he decided on building an original one;which only those are permitted to do that have subjectedfresh territories to the Crescent. He, therefore, built thismosque in 1496. The architect was a certain Christodulos, whowas rewarded for his work by the present of an entire streeta fact historically proved by an allusion made to it by Cantemerunder Achmed III. , whilst pleading the cause of the Christiansdwelling there, and whom the Osmans wished to expel from it.The mosque, with the Haram and Bostan, or burial- placebehind, stands on a terrace 12 ft . high. The Haram is surroundedon three sides by marble arcades, covered in with lead-roofedcupolas, and a marble bench running along the whole length.In the centre stands the customary fountain, covered in bycupolas, and surrounded by cypresses. The bronze palisade,behind which the water bursts forth, is a very fine piece of art.To the right of the chief entrance there is a marble slate, andon it, in a ground of lapis lazuli, the inscription in goldenletters, " They will conquer Stambul; and Hail the Prince,Hail the army, that accomplish this! "The income of the mosque is 670,000 p.MOSQUE OF EYUB, situated in the district of the same name,on the extremity of the Golden Horn, and is so peculiarly holy216 GUIDE TO TURKEY.that it is extremely difficult to procure permission to see it. Itwas commenced in 1453 , and contains the tomb of Eyub, theProphet's own standard-bearer, who was killed in 668 at thefirst siege of Constantinople by the Saracens. The mosqueitself contains the tomb of Sultan Selim. The grave of Eyubis in the court to the W., surrounded by fine old trees . Thesarcophagus, or Sanduka, is covered with bits of the Kaabacoverings, and on the top is crowned by an old felt hat, with agreen turban wound round it, supposed to have been Eyub'sown. The whole is enclosed by a silver railing, round whichstand six massive silver candlesticks of colossal size, betweenwhich are various desks with costly copies of the Koran writtenby celebrated calligraphists. The usual decorations on the wall,numerous lamps and ostrich- eggs pending from the roof, complete the tout ensemble. The fountain in the court, or Haram,is said to be in subterranean communication with the WellZemzem, in Mecca. It is in this mosque that the Sultans aregirded with the sword of the Prophet, upon their accession tothe throne.Of the other Mosques, the chief are those of BAJAZET II. ,1505; SELIM I., 1526; the SCHACHSADEH, built by Solimanthe Great to the memories of his sons, Mohammed and Mustapha, who both lie buried in the mausoleum adjoining. JENIDJAMI, or SULTANE VALIDE, Opposite to the bridge, was builtby Terkan Sultana, the wife of Mohammed II. , 1605. TheOSMANIEH, commenced by Mohammed I. , in 1745, and completedin 1755 by Osman III.: it is also called NURI OSMANIEH, orLight of Othman. Close to this mosque is the only Sarcophagus remaining of the Greek Emperors. It is cut out ofone block of porphyry, 8 ft. long, 6 ft. wide, and 5 ft. high.LALLELI, built by Mustapha II. , 1760. The five beautifullyworked marble columns are supposed to have come from thepalace ofTheodosius. It derives its name, not from the peculiarlytulip-formed shape of the minaret, but from a certain celebratedSheikh Lalli, who preached here. The oldest mosque in allConstantinople is the ARAB-DJAMI, in Galata, near the bridge,and was built by Moslema, the brother of Kalif Soliman I.,ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 217when he was besieging Constantinople at the head of an Arabarmy in 715. In construction it differs greatly from the othermosques, especially in the form of the minaret, which ratherresembles Christian campaniles than the slender Moslem towers.KURSHUNLI MAHSEN DJAMI, near the Custom House, is thenext oldest. It was built, 722, by Bin- Sheyret over a vault, inwhich it is said the Arabs concealed a number of treasures,when they raised their ineffectual sieges of Constantinople. Unbelievers say, they would more likely have taken their wealthwith them. Mosque of MirmAH, or Sun and Moon, situated tothe R. when entering the Adrianople Gate. It was erected byMirmah, daughter of Soliman, in 1555. The four granite pillarssupporting the dome were brought from the Church of Johnthe Baptist, situated on the site of the Hebdoman. TCHEMBERLI TASH, built from the remains of the forum of Constantineby Aali Pasha, Grand Vizir under Soliman I. , is close to thecolumn of Constantine the Great. The columns of the Prophelæa are very fine-four marble, two granite.There are eight mosques in Scutari, of which five were builtby sultanas and three by sultans. SULTANA VALIDE is thechief one, and has the privilege to illuminate during Ramadan, like the Imperial mosques in Stambul. A Poor Kitchen(Imaret) is connected with this mosque, at which any destituteperson receives two meals a day. Strangers are lodged andboarded for three days, free of expense.66Some of the minor mosques have the most grotesque namesand curious tales attached to them. For instance, Tadki Dschedim, "Assume I have eaten. " The story was, that a youngdelikanlu ," or swell, an epicure of the first water, suddenlyexperienced a fit ofrepentance, and, instead of wasting his moneyon table luxuries, put aside the money his sumptuous dinnerswould have otherwise cost, and contented himself with a frugalmeal. His butler, astonished at this remarkable change, asked what he meant. “ Tadki Dschedim, " he replied—“ Assume Ihave eaten ." With the money thus saved he built the mosque.Another is called the ALTI BOGADASCHA, or the Six Cakes. Abaker had the monopoly accorded to him of buying up all the218 GUIDE TO TURKEY.flour ground at the horse-mills , for which privilege he had tofurnish the Sultan with six cakes daily. This gentleman's conscience began to get uneasy, and he sought for a panacea in thebuilding of the mosque which bears this name. His pious deed,however, was not fully appreciated by the populace, who oneday burst into his shop and stifled him in his own dough-adoleful end for the poor baker.TURBAS.The TURBAS, or Mausolea of the Sultans and other richOsmanlis, are very interesting, and form a peculiar feature inStambul. They are met with in the most frequented streets,generally near and on the Mecca side of a mosque-a symbolof the commencement of the last long pilgrimage. They aremostly airy buildings, with many windows, the walls inscribedwith passages from the Burda, i.e. , the coat of Mahommed, inletters of gold on a blue or green ground. Candelabras, lamps ,ostrich- eggs, and silken tassels pend from the roofs . The marblefloor, where not occupied by the sarcophagus, is covered withcostly carpets. They are all elevated above the level of the soil ,surrounded by a colonnade, and some with a court before themwith the name of their founders and date of their completioninscribed on the gates. The corpses are lowered into thevault, which is then covered with a marble slab foot thick,a circular opening in the middle, over which the sarcophagus isthen placed, and covered with a strip of the embroidered coverof the Kaaba. Over this six scarfs, folded lengthwise, areplaced, and a seventh wound round the fez at the upper endof the sarcophagus, which is always turned towards the S.W.The whole is often surrounded by a palisade of cedar, inlaidwith mother of pearl, and enormous silver candlesticks at thecorners. Costly chairs and sumptuous Korans complete theameublement of the mausoleum, which thus looks more like aboudoir than the abode of the dead. The Sarcophagi of theSultanas are smaller, have no turbans, and only two scarfs tocover them.The most remarkable of these Turbas are those of:ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 219SOLIMAN THE GREAT (†1566) , near his own mosque, containing also the tombs of Soliman II. (†1690) and Achmed II.(†1695) .MAHMUD II. (†1839, of delirium tremens) . It is an octagonstructure of white marble, most sumptuously furnished withsofas, arm-chairs, costly carpets, and silken curtains-the wholeresembling a richly furnished saloon.MOHAMMED II. ( †1481 ) , close to his mosque; a little wayoff that of his mother, Gül Bahar, the Rose of Spring.SELIM II. (+1575) , in the Bostan of Agia Sophia, with hisdaughter-in-law, Nur Banu, the Woman of Light.MURAD III. (†1595) also here, with Mohammed III. (†1602)and his 17 brothers, whom he murdered.SELIM I. , close to his mosque.SCHAHSADEH, in the Bostan of the mosque of the same name,and containing the tombs of the Princes Mohammed and Mustapha, the sons of Soliman the Great.ACHMED I. (†1617) , on the N.E. side of his mosque. ThisTurba is a massive structure, and interesting from the number oftombs it contains, amongst which are those of Osman II. , whowas strangled by the Janissaries in 1622; of his brother,Prince Mohammed, whom he had strangled; and of PrinceBajazet, the hero of Racine's tragedy, who was murdered by hisbrother, Mustapha I.MUSTAPHA I. (†1623) , in the court of the Agia Sophia; alsocontains the remains of Prince Ibrahim, who, like Mustapha,died in the usual manner-strangulation.ABDUL HAMID († 1789) , in the street Vizir Dscholli , leadingfrom the Bagdschi Kapusi to the Serail. It is one of thelargest, and contains the remain of Mustapha IV. , who wasmurdered.VALIDE GULNAR SULTANA (+1804) . In the street leadingfrom the landing- place at Eyub to the Mosque of Eyub. Thereare a number of charitable institutions connected with thisTurba, occupying the greater part of the west side of the street.In the garden on the north there are tombs of several celebrities, one of whom is the Admiral Hussein Pasha, who defended220 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Acre with Sir S. Smith, and died in 1804. The tombs here arecommonly surrounded by green wire-work, giving them theappearance of aviaries. Adjoining this garden stands the PoorKitchen, at which forty poor people are daily provided withfood . The front is decorated with slabs and gold inscriptionson a green ground. To the left is a very picturesque fountain,built of coloured marbles, richly sculptured. The whole presents a pleasing picture of Mosiem piety and charity, fromwhich Western civilisation might well take a lesson , thatpoverty is no crime, and that paupers have sensibilities no lessthan Lady Clara Fitznervy.PALACES.The SERAIL, on the Serai Burun, with its numerous palaces,kiosks, and gardens, occupies the point between the Sea ofMarmora and the Golden Horn. A firman is necessary tovisit it. A great portion of it has not long ago been destroyedby fire. The chief entrance, the Sublime Porte, is a simplearch, and of no great architectural beauty, and more resemblesa guard- house than the entrance to an Imperial Palace . FiftyKapidschis, or warders, guard the entrance, through whichwe enter into a long court, sick-rooms on the right, and thedwellings of the Asangoklans on the left, who have to keep theSerail clean. Every one has access to this court, from whichwe arrive through a gate into the second one, also guardedby a number of Kapidschis . It forms a square of 300 yards.The paths are paved, the avenues well kept, and the centretastefully laid out in lawns with fountains. On the left is thetreasury, and a small stable large enough for thirty horsesand no more, as none but the Sultan is permitted to enterthis enclosure on horseback. A small fountain is shown here,at which the Pashas who were condemned to death sufferedexecution. On the right are the bureaux and kitchens, andround the whole court runs a lead-roofed gallery. Thechambers above the stables contain a variety of costly bejewelled saddles of the Sultans. The Throne Saloon isROUTE XV. — RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 221large, and of Moorish architecture, but of no especialinterest. The great gem of the whole is the HIRKAI SCHERIF,the chamber of the Holy Mantle. It is next to impossible forany Christian to obtain access to it; for not even the Moslems,excepting the Imaun, Sultan, and guards, are allowed to enter.It contains the five great relics of Islam, which are exhibitedduring Ramadan on the 15th day. They consist of: -1. The Sandshak, or banner of the Prophet, originally covering the entranceto his favourite wife Ayesha's tent. It had passed throughthe hands of the Ommiades and Abassides to Cairo, whenSelim I. took possession of it, 1512. At first it was preservedin the Great Mosque at Damascus, till Murad III. brought itto Constantinople; and in 1595 it led the campaign againstHungary. At the end of the year it returned, and was onlyused when either the Sultan or Grand Vizier took the field inperson. The last time it was unfolded was in 1829, on occasionof the massacre of the Janissaries . At present it is preservedin a jewelled box of rosewood, enwrapped in another banner,formerly belonging to the Khalif Omar. These two are thenfurther enveloped in forty more coverings of costly silks, of which the inmost is of green silk: inscriptions, such as Bismillah, " In the name of God; " " Mashallah, " "As God will; "" Ta Hafis," O Saviour, " &c. , embroidered in gold. The staffis surmounted by a gilt silver globe, containing a copy of theKoran, written by Khalif Omar.6666662. The MANTLE OF MOHAMMED, who presented it to an Arab,named Keab, as a reward for a poem he had composed to thehonour of God, and the immortal merits of his ambassador.Keab was one of the six pagan scholars and learned menMohammed endeavoured to convert, asking them to produce afiner work than the Koran. Five of them confessed theirinability, and adopted the faith . Keab, however, objected tomany portions of the book, and fled to the desert. Here hewas seized with compunction and repentance, and wrote thepoem, "Burdai Scherifi; " of which the Osman scholars say,that in beauty of style and thought it is only inferior tothe Koran. It is as well known as the Koran; passages from222 GUIDE TO TURKEY.it are heard every day, and inscriptions on wells, tombs, andbuildings are almost as frequently met with as those of theKoran itself.3. The BEARD OF THE PROPHET, which was taken off by hisfavourite, the barber Selmann, in the presence of Abu Bekr, whoofficiated as Imaun, and of several others of his disciples. It isabout 3 inches long, light brown in colour, and is kept in arichly ornamented, hermetically sealed glass case.4. One of the PROPHET'S TEETH, which was struck out of hisjaw in the battle of Bedr.5. An imprint of the PROPHET'S FOOT on a square piece oflimestone, formed by his left foot, when mounting the celestialsteed Borak, with which he ascended into Paradise. This relicis interesting, in so far as it has occasioned a traffic in relics common enough among Christian churches, but rarely found in theMoslem faith. Models and imitations of it are sold during theRamadan, decorated with inscriptions, and ranging in pricefrom 100 to 2,000 piastres. This relic , as well as the beard, isenclosed in a silver shrine of open fretwork, and stands in thecentre of the chapel, upon an altar hung with costly silks.Silver lamps and the never-failing ostrich-eggs hang from theceiling, and at both ends of the shrine are two colossal candlesticks of massive gold. There is a sofa and divan in a niche,for the Sultan, when he comes here to indulge in prayer, whichis very seldom. The only way to obtain admission is by disguiseor bribery-to a considerable extent-unless a firman be procurable. Verbum sat!The DOLMABAGDSCHE AND BESCHIKTASCH palaces are both onthe Bosphorus, near to Tophana. They are quite new, of nostyle at all, and contain nothing of any interest except the greatchandelier from the Paris Exhibition hanging in the audiencesaloon; the entrance- hall, with a dome of coloured glass , producing a very pleasing effect; and the smoking Kiosk, built inthe form of a lantern, with a crystal fountain in the centre. TheSultan's bath is peculiar, from the curious Egyptian alabasterin the walls, looking like faintly coloured meerschaum. Thegardens are tastefully laid out by a German of the name ofROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 223Tester, whom it might be well to inquire for. The SummerPalace of Beschiktasch is enclosed by high walls, and surroundedby exquisite shrubberies and gardens. Tschiragan Serail, alittle way beyond, was commenced in 1680 by Mohammed IV. ,and continued by Mahmud and Mahmud II. In 1860 it wastaken down by Abdul Medjid, and its reconstruction delayed byhis death. Since 1863, however, Abdul Aziz has again recommenced building it, and it is now in a fair way for completion.The ESKI SERAI, or Old Serail, between the Mosque of SultanBajazet and the Solimanieh, was built by Mohammed II. onthe site ofthe Forum of Theodosius, and of the materials of theancient palaces . Subsequently it was occupied by the dowagersultanas till in 1826, after the massacre of the Janissaries, itwas converted into the War Office, or Serasker Kapusi.BAZAARS.The bazaars of Stambul are one of the most characteristicfeatures of the capital. They are divided into BEZESTANS andTSCHARSCHIS . The Bezestan, literally Linen- Bazaar, is a perfectlabyrinth of bazaars surrounded by walls, with twelve large andtwenty smaller gates for entrance. They are all covered in,forming a series of vaulted passages, on each side of whichthe merchants display their various articles . Each trade hasits particular street in this immense structure; one presentsnothing but a long row of yellow boots and red slippers;another, jewelry; a third, gold and silver lace and tassels, and soon, ad infinitum. The Bezestan is between the Mosque ofS. Bajazet and Meni Osmanieh.The Book Bazaar is very interesting, and offers an immenseselection of books and MSS. , where an Oriental scholar mightdoubtless find some treasures of value. The Spice Bazaar iscontained in a separate building , dark and gloomy, suitable tothe character of the place; it is the coolest and least crowdedof the bazaars, and looks, with its ancient hook-nosed Osmans,like an assembly of alchemists perched amongst their mysterious.drugs and herbs.The Tscharschis are the open bazaars, or market- places . The224 GUIDE TO TURKEY.At-Bazar is devoted to horse-dealers and saddlery. Tamis-Bazaar, to coffee-merchants and coffee- stampers; Misr Tscharschi,to drugs; Tusuk Bazaar, to books, bookbinders, and MSS.A walk through these bazaars, crowded with people from allnations, is, without exception, the most rewarding excursionwithin Stambul. Dr. Johnson would have spurned Fleet Streetfor them, as he did the green fields for Fleet Street.HAMMAMS, OR BATHS.There are numbers of Hammams in Constantinople, easilyrecognisable by the red- tiled cupolas and slender pipes projectingto let the steam off. The chief and best are:The TSCHUKUR, built by Mohammed II. on the ruins of theArcadian cistern.

• VALIDE HAMMAM, near the Burnt Column.

JENI HAMMAM, or Dschigal Oglu, a little to the N. of AgiaSophia.

• DSCHERRA PASHA, on the Awret Bazaar.

The largest are those ofTOCHTIKAHLA, near the Egyptian Bazaar; and that ofMAHMUD PASHA, near the Bezestan. These two, however, arefrequented by the common people, hamals, boatmen, &c. Stillless can a respectable person make use of the Agia SophiaHammam, near the mosque of the same name, or the KassekiHammam, in the Awret Bazaar, as they are the resort of theStambul demi- monde. It is useless to describe the procedurein these baths; they are well known enough in Europe. Theprice for a bath, with pipes and coffee, which lasts about twohours, is 8 to 10 piastres. Each hammam has two separatedivisions, one for women and one for men.WELLS."Water giveth life to all things!" says the Koran, andaccordingly this is the device on most of the public wells andfountains with which Stambul abounds. The finest are thoseROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 225of Achmed III. , before the Sublime Porte, and of SultanaSeynab, opposite the Agia Sophia.ANTIQUITIES OF STAMBUL.The ATMEIDAN, a translation of the word hippodrome, racecourse, is the largest open space in Stambul, 250 yards longand about 150 broad. Before the erection of the Achmedieh itwas twice the size it is now. It was commenced by Severus, andcompleted by Constantine the Great, who was the first to establishhorse- racing in Constantinople; but has acquired more renownfrom the revolutions and factions it gave rise to, especially tothe Verti and Veneti, corresponding to the Montecchi and Capuleti, the Roman Prætorians, the Janissaries, or the RussianStrelitz, and who convulsed the empire with their contentions,though often severely punished, as, for instance, by Belisar. Allthat remains of the monuments that ornamented it are:The OBELISK, a monolith of Egyptian granite, 50 ft. high and6 ft. square at the base. It was erected by Thothmosis, of the18th dynasty, about 1600 B.C., in front of the Temple of theSun at Heliopolis, whence it was brought by Theodosius anderected in the Hippodrom (390) , after it had lain for some timeprostrate, having been overthrown by an earthquake. Thesides of the pedestal are sculptured in relief; one face representing Theodosius receiving the homage of his enemies; thesecond, Theodosius on his throne, with his wife and children;the third, he is shown standing between his sons, holding a crownin his hand; and on the fourth, viewing the Olympian games.The foot of the pedestal represents the various machines bywhich the Obelisk was raised. It has two inscriptions-one inLatin and one in Greek. The former runs: -"Difficilis quondam Dominis parere serenis,Jussus et extinctis palmam portare tyrannis,Omnia Theodosio cedunt sobolique perenniTerdenis sic victus ego, duobusque diebusIndice sub Proclo superas elatus ad auras."226 GUIDE TO TURKEY.The Obelisk itself rests on four cubes of bronze at each cornerof the pedestal .In a line with this Obelisk stands the bronze SERPENT COLUMN,said to have been brought from Delphi by Constantine the Great.It is only a fragment, and in ruins; the three heads are supposedto have formed the reversed tripod which supported the secondtripod of gold of which Herodotus speaks: "The Greeks, afterthe battle of Platæa, collected all the money and dedicated onetenth to the god at Delphi, numbering with it a tripod of gold; itwas placed upon the three- headed copper serpent, which stoodnear the altar. " The tradition is queer; for it seems improbablethat a people of such artistic feelings as the Greeks should placethe three feet of one tripod upon the reversed three feet ofanother, as we may consider the three heads. It was discovered,during the Crimean war, that there is only a portion of thecolumn remaining; the tails as well as the heads are wanting,and seemingly several feet of each end.The third remnant of antiquity in the Hippodrom is theSTONE OBELISK, constructed of several blocks, in a very ruinedstate indeed; a young tree has grown forth from a fissure overthe top, and the whole seems on the point of toppling over. Itwas formerly covered with gilt copper plates, is about 94 ft.high, and rests on a slab of marble 7 ft. thick. The inscriptionon it says " This wondrous quadrangular colossus , injured bytime, was rebuilt and improved by Constantine, the father ofRomanus. As the Colossus of Rhodes was there a wonder, so isthis one of copper here."The Venetians stripped this obelisk of its copper in 1204, whenthey carried off the celebrated four horses, now at the portalsof St. Mark in Venice, which also formed part of the ornamentsof the Hippodrom, where Belisarius received in triumph therewards and honours showered upon him by Justinian, after hisvarious conquests.The BURNT COLUMN stands near the Tomb of Mohammed II. ,and is called Dschemberli Tasch (Hooped Stone) . The formerderives its name from the injury it has suffered from the numerousfires that have raged around it at different times; and the latterROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 227from the hoops of iron with which it is bound to preserve it fromfalling. It is composed of eight blocks of porphyry, carefullyjoined together, is 89 feet high and 30 feet in circumference. Itformerly supported a statue of Apollo, and under the pedestalConstantine placed some relics of the Cross; in consequence ofwhich you will always observe a Greek incline himself beforeit, and make the sign of the cross.The Column of MARCIAN is near the Mosque of SultanMohammed, in a garden by the side of the Seratch Khameh,or Saddle Market. The Osmans call it KISS TASCH, or Maiden'sStone. Under Constantine it was known as the Column ofVenus, bearing a statue ofthat mischievous goddess, supposed tohave the property of discriminating between virgins and non- such;for whenever any lady of easy virtue passed it, her dress suddenlybecame agitated, as is chronicled in the case of the EmpressSophia, wife of Justinian , in consequence of which scandal themeddling goddess was cast into the sea. The column is formedof two shafts of Egyptian granite; the pedestal of five blocks ofmarble. There is an inscription to this effect: " Principis hancstatuam Marciani cerne torumque ter vovit quod Tatianusopus. "Arguing from this inscription , it is most probable that thecolumns supported a statue of Marcian, and that the story of Venus arises from some confusion .The COLUMN OF THEODOSIUS is in the garden of the Serail, is50 feet high, and of the Corinthian order. The capital is ofverde-antico; the inscription is, " Fortunæ reduci ob devictosGothos."It is often called the COLUMN OF SIMEON STYLITES, but waserected 381 A.D., in honour of Theodosius, of whom it formerlybore a statue, at the time when Theodosius allowed the Gothicking, Athanaric, to colonise Mosia and Thrace.THE CISTERNS.The YERAI BATAN SERAI, or the Subterranean Palace, nearthe Mosque of Agia Sophia, is a subterranean cistern, formingQ 2228 GUIDE TO TURKEY.a series of vaults; the arches are of brick, resting on 336Corinthian pillars of marble, of which sixteen rows run lengthways and twenty-eight crosswise. Built by Justinian.The BIN- BIR- DIREK (Thousand- and- one Columns) is theancient cistern of Philoxenus, a Roman senator, who came toConstantinople with Constantine the Great. It is also near theAgia Sophia, and contains 672 columns, placed in rows of threecolumns each; so that the pedestal of the top one, slightlyhollowed out, serves as a capital for the lower one.It is nowused as a silk- spinning factory. The plan of breaking onecolumn, as it were, into three most likely was adopted in orderto give them play, in case of earthquake; it also explains thediscrepancy of some authors who affirm there are only 224, andothers numbering them at 672.THE CISTERN OF THE FORTY MARTYRS is also close by, alittle way to the W., and is one of the handsomest, though small. Dry.THE CISTERN OF BODRUM DJAMI, to the S. of the LaleliDjami, with which it communicates, was built, under Leo theGreat, by Asdur and Artaburius, and contains sixty-fourcolumns. Dry.TSCHUKUR BOSTAN, to the S. of the Mosque of Sultan Selim,was built by the Emperor Anastasius, and is in the district ofPsamatia, now used as gardens.THE CISTERN OF PANTOCRATOR is private property, near theUn Kapani Street. It contains thirty-six columns, and the surface is still under water.There is another cistern to the S. of Sultan Selim, containingtwenty-eight columns, which is used by silk-spinners, besidesnumbers of others in a more or less dilapidated state. Wehave enumerated the chief, and decline to enter upon theargument as to the site of the ARCADIAN CISTERN, but willmention the ruins of the cistern (twenty-eight columns) nearthe site of the celebrated church and monastery of the ConsulStudius, under Leo the Great. It is now occupied by a mosque,MIR ACHAR DJAMI.ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 229·THE WALLS AND GATES.We commence at the Serail Point, with theYALI- KIOSK- KAPUSI, and follow the Golden Horn, when wearrive at theBAGDSCHI-KAPUSI, the Garden Gate, where the caiques fromTophana and Galata generally land.TSCHUFUT, or VALIDE KAPUSI: called by the first name onaccount of the numerous Jews living in the vicinity; by thesecond, from its proximity to the SULTANA VAlide.BALUK- BAZAR- KAPUSI, or Fish-Market Gate, at the narrowest part of the Horn.SINDAN- KAPUSI, or Prison Gate, near a tower used as a prisonfor debtors.ODUN- KAPUSI, or Wooden Gate.AYASMA- KAPUSI, or Gate of the Holy Fountain; from theneighbouring fountain supposed to possess miraculous qualities.UN KAPANI-KAPUSI, Gate of the Flour- sellers.DJUB- ALI- KAPUSI, built by a rich glazier, named Ali.AJA-KAPUSI, Gate of the Saint; from the Church of St. Theodosia, near to it in former times.YENI-KAPUSI, the New Gate; built after the conquest of thecity.PETRI- KAPUSI, the Peter's Gate. A second wall commenceshere, branching round and enclosing the residence of the GreekPatriarch; before the Conquest it was called the Petrion, andalso protected the celebrated Convent of the Petrians.PHANAR-KAPUSI, Gate of the Phanar.BALAT- KAPUSI, formerly called Basilica, from its vicinity tothe Palace of the Blackernes.KYNIGOS- KAPUSI, Gate of the Huntsman.AIWAN- SERAI- KAPUSI.XYLOPORTA, or ODUN- KAPUSI, Wooden Gate.In the angle formed by the Golden Horn wall and the landwall the palace of the Blackernes was situated, of which thereare scarcely any remains. The tower built by Isaac the Angel,and one or two other towers, are, however, still to be seen.230 GUIDE TO TURKEY.The first gate on the land side is theEGRI- KAPUSI, or CHARSIA. Under the Byzantine Empire itwas guarded for some time by a German Legion, and it washere that Arnold Gilpracht let Alexis Comnenus into the town.Through this gate Justinian entered in triumph, and was conducted by the Senate to the Church of the Apostles, on the siteof which the Mosque of Mohammed II. now stands.At the angle the wall here makes, the gate of KERKOPORTAwas formerly situated, where the Turks entered in 1453.EDIRNE- KAPUSI, Gate of Adrianople; also called Polyandriaor Myriandria.TOP- KAPUSI, or ROMANUS, the Cannon Gate. It was here thatthe gate, as well as the towers around it, were blown down byMohammed's enormous bomb, and where, on the 29th of May,the Emperor Palælogos was killed in the attack. When heperceived that all was lost, he cried out, Alas! is there noChristian sword to end my misery? " At that moment, one Turk,to whom the Emperor was unknown, gashed him across theface with his sword; and a second felled him with one blow ofhis axe.66MEWLANEH- KAPUSI, from a Dervish monastery close by.SILIVRI-KAPUSI.YEDI- KULEH- KAPUSI, Gate of the Seven Towers. YEDIKULI, the Castle of the Seven Towers, in the extreme S.W.corner of Stambul, is one of the most ancient relics in the city.It was originally built by Theodosius; but when Mohammed tookthe town it was little more than a ruin. He had it rebuilt, afterwhich it was used as a barracks for the Janissaries, and laterstill as a state prison. As late as the last century the ambassadors of the foreign powers, with whom the Porte was at war,were imprisoned here. A few soldiers form the garrison, andwill be glad to let you see over it for a bakshish. A littlefurther on, comes the walled- up GOLDEN GATE, through whichthe Emperors usually entered in triumph. The Osmans had itwalled up, in consequence of a superstition that the futureconquerors of Stambul would enter by this gate. A similartradition has caused the Golden Gate in Jerusalem to be closed.ROUTE XV. - RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 231There are only two Corinthian columns, spotted with severalgreen marks, remaining.Coming now to the shores of the Sea of Marmora, the firstgate is theNARLI KAPUSI, or Pomegranate Gate, formerly Vetus.PSAMATHIA KAPUSI-Porta Hypromathii.DAUND PASHA KAPUSI-Porta Emiliana.YENI- KAPU, leading into the Armenian quarter. There isstill an inscription over the gate, to the effect that, " By orderof Theodosius, Constantine, surnamed Cyrus, completed thesewalls in two months . "KUM-KAPUSI, Sand Gate. The ancient Condoskali.TCHATLADI, or DEMIR KAPUSI , Iron Gate. Close by, inthe walls of a slaughter- house, there are a couple of lions andtwo columns, the remains either of the Boukoleon or the Palaceof Theodosius.AKHOR KAPUSI, or Stable Gate, from its vicinity to theImperial stables. A little way beyond, the walls of the Serailbegin. The gates here are BALUKHANEH KAPUSI (walled up) ,DJIRMEN KAPUSI, and TOP KAPUSI (walled up) .Byzantium was first surrounded with walls by Byzas; thenby Pausanias; after which they were destroyed by Severus, whothen rebuilt them. Constantine the Great then united thewalls of Byzance and Constantinople. They were subsequentlythrown down by earthquakes and rebuilt several times, and underTheodosius entirely rebuilt in sixty days. Since then theyhave often been repaired by various sovereigns, so that it is impossible to say of whose reign the present walls are. Undoubtedlythere are many parts, aye, the greater portion too, dating fromthe Byzantine Emperors.THE AQUEDUCT.Like Rome, Constantinople may be called the City of SevenHills; like Rome, its aqueducts are one of its most strikingfeatures. As in Rome, these remains tower in their simplegrandeur over the remnant of a debased, degenerate race; a232 GUIDE TO TURKEY.race never remarkable for its purity even in ancient times, butstill possessing the savage virtues at the commencement of itscareer, which, however, with the growth of luxury, sank intoas many vices. So utterly rotten to the core was the GreekEmpire, so utterly rotten to the core still is Greek publiclife, that none could or can live in its contaminating atmospherewithout being tainted. Thus the Osmans who live in communication with the Greeks, and whilst fondly believing they areserved by them, whereas they are only made use of by thecrafty Hellenes like a poppet, are as debased as their masterslaves; whilst those who exist away from the infectious influencestill retain their ancient virtues-with their ancient vices , it istrue-and are as superior to the Hellenic parasites around asour English gentleman is to a bigoted Calabrian. Now, buildinga grand aqueduct is no evidence of the excellence of a race—vide the Pyramids, built at an immeasurable cost of life ,liberty, and happiness; but still the remains of such worksimpress us with a vague sense of the greatness and excellenceof past times-a sense, which, like all senses, leads us astray,and prevents our inquiring into its real cause. It is the objectiveside of man that here presents itself to view; the abstract,unimpassioned idea reproduced in an equally unimpassionedbut concrete form. The petty strifes and passions of man, likebubbles in a cup corresponding to the revolutions of nature, heredisappear; the remains seem to form a part of the scenearound, and to embody the most optimist theories of humannature, till history steps in and dispels the illusion. Suchthoughts are sure to occur to every thoughtful man on beholdingthe long line of arches, the AQUEDUCT OF VALENS, stretchingacross the city, from the hill on which the Mohammedieh issituated, past the Mosque of Schah- Sadeh, to the Eski- Serai .And when the setting sun pours its golden flood through theancient arches on to the blue and purple haze floating over the ,crystal waters of the Horn, the whole scene is one of suchsurpassing beauty and airy lightness-more like a dream thanreality-that we urgently recommend all who can to behold thesight. That scene alone is worth the journey.ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 233The Aqueduct itself was first commenced by Hadrian in asingle row of arches, which, not being able to resist the shocksof the frequent earthquakes, was taken down and replaced bya double row, by Valens, 367 A.D.; 558, it was again overthrown;repaired , 570; destroyed by the Avares, 617; rebuilt by Constantinos Kopronymos; repaired by Basilius in 1020; remainingtill the time of Soliman, 1540, when it was repaired and spoiltby Sinan; for, knowing that the flow of water would not behindered, he took down a part of the upper tier , in order toprocure an unimpeded view of the Golden Horn from the Mosqueof Schah- Sadeh (of which he was the architect) .Its length, from the Mohammedieh to the Eski- Serai, is1268 feet; the width, 113 feet; the height varies with the undulating nature of the ground, the greatest being 78 feet.The reservoirs or Bends which supply Constantinople with waterare all outside the town; and in the district around them no treesare allowed to be cut down; and various other stringent regulations are enforced to protect the supply and the communicationwith the town. The superabundance is collected in circularcisterns close to the Bends, called Basch Hawuss.There are seven Bends:-1. The BEND OF PYRGOS or AIWAT, to the N.W. of thevillage of Belgrade; built in 1765 by Mustapha III.2. BUYUK BEND. The Great Bend S. of Belgrade, in thevalley of Ewaheddin; built by Achmed III. , 1714.3. ESKI BEND, also in the valley of Ewaheddin, N. ofBelgrade; built by Soliman.4. PASHA DERESSI BEND, S.W. of Belgrade; built bySoliman.5. YENI BEND, the finest of all built; by Mohammed II. ,1817.6. VALIDE BEND,7. MAHMOUD Bend. }N. of Bagdschi Koi. The first builtby the mother of Mahmoud I.; the second by Mahmoudhimself.Of the Aqueducts, six deserve special mention.1. The AQUEDUCT, crossing the valley of Bagdsche Koi,234 GUIDE TO TURKEY.takes up the waters of the Valide and Mahmoud Bends, anddistributes them by subterranean canals to all the places on theleft of the Golden Horn, Pera, Galata, Hasskoi, etc. TheAqueduct itself at Bagdsche Koi is 1270 feet long and 86 feethigh. The road from Buyukdere to Belgrade passes underneathit.2. OSSUN KEMARI, bridging over the valley Petinochori, nearPyrgos, 2000 feet long, 80 feet high; built by Soliman.3. GUSSELSCHI KEMARI is divided into two parts by theridge between the valley of Pyrgos and Beilik Mandra. It isalso called Dirsekdji, " Elbow, " from its shape; 1025 feet long,100 feet high.4. MUALLAK KEMARI, across the valley of Ali- Bey- Koi, 725 ft .long, 110 ft . high, 56 ft . wide at the base, 44 ft . at the top, isone of the airiest structures in Constantinople. In the neighbourhood of the aqueduct, the Osman beau monde assemble onFriday, and form a kind of Rotten Row; music, horses, coaches,&c. , in abundance. It is one hour's distance from Galata bycaïque.5. PASHA DERESSI KEMARI, S.W. of Belgrade, 1340 ft. long,80 ft. high, leading the waters of the Eski, Buyuk. Jeni, andPasha Deressi Bends to the cistern which feeds the GusselschiKemari.6. DSCHEWEDSCHI- KOI KEMARI, built by Mahommed II. ,473 ft. long, 85 ft. high.Along the course of the subterranean canals , pyramids arebuilt from place to place, over which the water is conducted bymeans of earthenware pipes. At the top it enters a small cistern,where it is refreshed, and subjected to the pressure of theatmosphere. By this means the water is kept fresh, and theexpense of enormous aqueducts is avoided. It is an Arab orSyrian invention, and very often met with in the East; forinstance, at Mostar.The Aqueduct of Valens is fed by a number of reservoirsoutside the Egri Kapusi ( see page 230) , called Taksim.These systems of canals, aqueducts, and cisterns do notimprove the water. If you want a glass of really fresh, good,ROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 235sweet water, you must buy it of the water- sellers, who obtain itfrom the best springs.CHURCHES.None of the Greek or Catholic churches possess any interestfor the general tourist. The chief are:-PAMMA KARISTA, thein the Phanar.seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate,ST. GEORGE, in connection with the Holy Sepulchre atJerusalem. If the traveller proceed further E. , he might as wellendeavour to obtain an introduction to the superiors of themonasteries at Ramleh and Jerusalem. It is also in thePhanar.ST. GEORGE, near the Adrianople Gate, contains a MS. copyof the Gospel, on parchment, which was presented to the Churchof Sophia, in 1438, by a monk of Candia, named Arsenius.The CHURCH OF ST. IRENE, near the Serail, has been transformed into an armoury. The collection of arms is very interestingand extensive.LIBRARIES.These are no less than thirteen in Stambul. The mostextensive are those of the *Agia Sophia, the Mohammedieh,

• • Sultan Hamid, the Vizier Ibrahim, Raghib, &c.

EBLICEI- ATIKA.This isthe "Madame Tussaud's" of Constantinople, containinga collection of the costumes of the Janissaries who were massacred, 26th June, 1826. We give an extract from Mr. Arnold'samusing "Letters from the Levant, " a book we can recommendfor its vivacious truthfulness:-"At the entrance of this museum, the first figure whichgreets the visitor, with a stony stare, and a frightful expressionof privileged ferocity, is an officer of the Janissaries-a functionary who seems to have been robed in rose pink, to haveworn a swollen white turban, like a fifteen-inch globe, and to236 GUIDE TO TURKEY.have lolled all the day upon a couch, from which he gave hisorders to three black- robed attendants, whose stucco fingersstand out straight and harmless. Beside their rose-pink chiefthere hangs a stout staff, at the end of which is fastened abouttwo feet of chain, finished with a four- pound ball of iron-aninstrument of punishment which, according to our dragoman,this Janissary used with great freedom."Near him, another-whose stolid face is most successfully imprinted with the Janissary spirit of cruel, obstinate hauteur,whose black robe and large turban of brown stuff seem unattractive among so many brighter garments—is on guard, with threeterrible batons by his side . Before him, upon a portable fire,two ears of maize are roasting, which shows the simple fare ofthe Janissaries. This one, they say, was wont to demand atleast a para of every Christian who passed him, and to administera beating in case of non-payment. Not far distant there is thechief of the corps, whose grand white turban is handsomelyarranged over a red helmet. The paymaster has a sack of money upon his shoulder, and on his head a brass coronet, towhich is attached a bag hanging down his back, of a materiallike light-brown mackintosh, almost sufficiently large to conceal himself in case of need. The chief confectioner of the Sultanhas also a head- dress of this peculiar form, and silver bells allover his costume, to give notice of his approach. "Galata.We now cross the Horn to the Frank quarters , of whichGalata, as we have already said, is the " city " of Constantinople.It is divided in the W. from Kassim Pasha by a large cemetery,which, however, is called the Kutschuck Mezaristan, or CampoPiccolo, to distinguish it from the Buyuk Mezaristane, or CampoGrande, to the N. of the Fyndykly quarter. Galata was foundedby the Genoese, in 1216, and soon increased to such an extentthat the Greek Emperors allowed them to frame their own lawsand fortify the town. At the siege of Constantinople, in order tocurry favour with the Osmans, they assisted them as far as theyROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 237could, thus preparing the way to their own ruin; for with theGreek Empire the Latin reign also fell. The only remnant of itsancient power is the Galata Tower, which is now used as a watchtower in case of fire . Fine *view from the top.Pera.Of Pera we have little to add to what we have already said ofit, excepting that the Monastery of the Dancing or, more properly, Turning Dervishes is situated in the main street, 3 min.before arriving at Misseri's Hotel. They perform on Mondaysand Fridays, and the traveller should by no means omit visiting them.Tophana,The continuation of Galata, derives its name from the cannonfoundry here. The fountain on the market- place is a handsomestructure of white marble.Fyndykly,Adjoining Tophana, is the Turkish and Armenian quarter tothe E. of Pera, as Kassim Pasha is on the W.Following the shores of the Golden Horn from Kassim Pashaupwards, we come to Hass- koi, the Jewish quarter; and further,past the Koumbaradji Kichlassi (barracks and School of Medicine), toEyub,A most picturesque suburb, on the shores of the GoldenHorn, taking its name from the mosque of the same name.(See page 215.)Scutariis entirely populated by Turks, and contains the most extensiveburial- grounds round about Constantinople.To the Mosques we have already adverted, and will nowmention the Monastery of the Rufai or Howling Dervishes.The howling consists in a deep, guttural pronunciation of the“ La-il-lah -il- lah-la" ("there is no God but God ") , gradually cul-238 GUIDE TO TURKEY.minating into a shout, or rather roar of frenzy, which must beheard to be realised . They perform on Thursdays.The Tower, called Tower of Leander, has nothing whateverto do with Leander, and was originally built by ManuelComnenus, and furnished with iron chains to close the Bosphorus.Scutari, or Uskudar, is of very ancient origin . The wordUskudar is Persian, and signifies Courier or Post-Messenger;so that, even in the Persian age, it was regarded as the poststation, whence the pilgrims and caravans from Europe startedfor Asia. The Cypresses of Scutari are its most characteristicfeature. On the shore, near the Military Hospital, stands theObelisk, erected to the memory of the soldiers who fell in the Crimean war. The view from the hill of Bulgerlu, about anhour's walk to the N.E. of Scutari, is exceedingly fine; in fact,the finest in the neighbourhood.CHARACTERISTIC CUSTOMS OF THE OSMANS.One of the most peculiar traits in the Moslem and moreparticularly in the Osman character is his love for the " City ofhis Fathers, " as he calls the cemeteries . Numerous littlecustoms prove this, beyond the fact of the burial- grounds beinga chief place of resort . For instance , cup- like hollows are scoopedout of the gravestone in each corner, where the rain and deware collected for the birds in the neighbouring cypress groves;little heaps of stones are strewn about, each stone representinga prayer that has been prayed on the spot; rags flutter aboutthe bushes and railings round the tombs, in the belief that asthe wind waves them to and fro, so in like manner will anydisease depart from the wearer of the habit they were tornfrom. The flat tombstones covering the grave have either aslit or a round opening left in them, in order that the twoangels, Monker and Naker, who, according to Moslem belief, will have to judge the dead, may easily enter and issue.The grave of Ali Pasha, the Governor of Janina, lies in theROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 239Cemetery of Silivri. The sarcophagus is of white marble, andbears the golden inscription-" He alone is eternal!"The Governor of Janina, who maintained his independencefor more than thirty years—the celebrated Ali Pasha. Here lies his head! ( 1812) . ”There is generally an appeal to the visitor for prayer at theend of all epitaphs; in this case it is omitted, as he was executed,and his body buried elsewhere.Another peculiar trait is the care the Osman takes of anycrumb of bread; on no account would he suffer the smallestparticle to fall to the ground to be trodden on. It is the staffof life. They will carefully gather up the smallest remains, andreturn it to the plate, or bag, if common people. I shall neverforget the reproachful look and tone in which an Arab once saidto me, as I threw a small hard crust away, Mush taib, Howadji,el esh!" (Not good, O Merchant; it is bread! )66It is the same with paper which has been written on. Agood Moslem will carefully pick such up, and put it in a safeplace; for it might have the name of Allah written on it.Cruelty to animals is never met with in an Osman; theft,lying, and deceit are perfectly foreign to his character . He ischaritable to the extreme; and there is a tacit acknowledgmentof the equality of all men, from which none might learn morethan especially the Americans.These remarks of course apply to the Osman not yet debasedbythe contaminating contact with the scum of Christianity; forof such, I am sorry to say, is the greater part of the foreignpopulation in Constantinople composed. For, being a free town,or nearly so, all the refuse ofthe Mediterranean littorals flock toit, and whoever touches pitch dirties his fingers!Ofthe festivals, the Bairam is the greatest, and closes themonth of Ramadan, which corresponds to our Lent, the same asthe Bairam does to the Carnival in Catholic countries, the onlydifference being in the time-the Carnival coming before, theBairam after Lent, which certainly seems more reasonable.240 GUIDE TO TURKEY.During Ramadan every one fasts in the literal sense of theword; not even smoking, snuff-taking, or the smelling of flowersor perfumes is allowed from sunrise to sunset-a period of about18 hours. The merit of the day's fasting, however, is annulledif any wilful sin be committed-such as, for instance , slandering,which must especially be atoned for by extraordinary prayersand penances. I have seen Moslems, after riding and workingfor 10 or 12 hours in the broiling heat, firmly resist all persuasionto take the slightest refreshment-not even a drop of water.Consequently, the night is turned into day, and the meals takenafter sunset, and prolonged till midnight, when a 3 or 4 hours'sleep refreshes the abstemious Moslem for the fatigues of thenext day.With the close of the month, however, with the Bairam, allis changed, when joy, amusem*nt, and pleasure are the order ofthe day.The Kurban Bairam commences seventy days after the GreatBairam, and lasts five days, to commemorate the interruptedsacrifice of Ismael by Abraham ( the Koran names Ismael, notIsaac) . As during Ramadan, here, too, they fast in the daytime, whilst the night is devoted to pleasure and amusem*nt.This is also the great time for charity, and large sums are givento the poor. Especially are the prisons remembered, andnumbers of benevolent souls present the unfortunate captiveswith food; bread, meat, and fruit, or even clothes, are freelybestowed upon the miserable wretches, and any one who hasseen the interior of an Eastern prison well knows how greatthe boon must be.For days before the festival, the heights around the townand even the streets themselves are crowded with herds of cattledriven by shepherds from all parts of the empire, even fromthe midst of Rumelia and Anatolia . The shepherds of theSultan, living in a village near to the Sweet Waters, are alsopresent, with a number of oxen presented by the Sultan, whichare driven into the town by the shepherds in gala clothing,the horns of the beasts glittering with gold- leaf, the fleeces ofthe sheep and goats painted red, blue, and yellow, all enteringROUTE XV. -RUSTZUK TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 241by the Egri- Kapusi in Stambul. The number of cattle slaughtered during this time, and given away as alms, amounts in Constantinople alone to 200,000, and in the other chief towns inproportion; so that this festival is a source of no small profitto the cattle-dealers. A sheep at this time costs no less ( or nomore, shall we say? ) than 40 piastres, and a lamb 30 ( 8s. 6d. ) .The Mulid en Nebi, the birth-day of the Prophet, is one ofthe days on which the Sultan proceeds in state to the Achmedieh to receive the letter from the Schereef of Mecca announcingthe safe arrival of the Great Caravan and the presents from theSultan.Besides these festivals, there are seven holy nights , theLeylat Mubaraka:---1. The EVE OF THE MULlid.2. LEYLAT ER REGIB, the Conception of the Prophet.3. LEYLAT EL MURADSCH, the Ascension of the Prophet.4. LEYLAT EL BERAT, the Night of Testification, when theAngels close the books wherein they have entered the deeds ofman, receive new ones, and write down the names of all destinedto die within the year.5. LEYLAT EL KADR, the Night of Omnipotence, the mostsolemn and mysterious of all. The whole creation manifests ,by some invisible ( or visible, in the case of man) sign , the omnipotence and power of God. The Sultan proceeds in state to theMosque at Tophana, and at night views a grand display of fireworks.6. The EVE OF THE GREAT BAIRAM.7. The EVE OF THE KURBAN BAIRAM.The next great feature in Moslem religious life is the departure and arrival of the caravan to and from Mecca, the date ofwhich changes every year. Every good Moslem must make thepilgrimage himself, or make it by proxy; after which he is entitled to wear the green turban, and the appellation HADJI. Theturban is a great distinguishing feature among the Moslems;each profession having its peculiar shapes. The Jews wear ablack cloth round the fez; the rabbis, a peculiarly elaborate projecting flat turban, and so on.R242 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XVI.Filibe to Sophia, via Basardjik..Distance, 79 miles . Days, 4.WEleave Filibe by the same road we entered it, and, crossingthe long wooden bridge over the Maritza, turn to the L., keepingabout half a mile from the river, which we join after passing thevillage of Sarydja, two miles from Filibe. Four miles further onwe come to a large village of about 500 houses, Solapitsa,spreading over a large surface of ground in isolated farms andparcels . The inhabitants are all Christian, Orthodox andSchismatic Greeks, each party possessing a church of its own.The further we proceed, the more picturesque does the countrybecome, the green woods and valleys stretching far up the slopesand into the recesses of the Rhodope or Despoda Dagh. 4miles from Solapitsa, we pass the village of Danazlar on the L.,through Kuru Duvan Koi, past Duvan Koi, on the R., KaraEslik, each at an interval of about one mile, and, leavingTchanaktchylar Koi on our R. , enterBazardjik,Sixteen miles from Filibe, a town supposed to occupy the siteof the ancient Bessapora, and containing some 11,000 inhabitants(high estimate), of which two-thirds are Osmanlis or MoslemBulgarians, and the rest Christians. The prefix Tatar, generallyused to denote it, is perfectly inappropriate, inasmuch as thereare no Tatars here to speak of; and besides which, it is never usedby the natives . On the contrary, there is a Bazardjik nearVarna, which has this prefix Tatar to distinguish it from itsmore western namesake. The town is, as its name denotes, aROUTE XVI. -FILIBE TO SOPHIA. 243market-town, and, as the iepéws Þiλitπovñoλítov, who is anauthority on these points, truly calls it, is a éµπóριov ikavòv tavτòsεἴδους πραγματειῶν, μάλιστα δὲ τῶν μαλλινων ὑφασμάτων ἤτοι τῶνγρυξων.The Kurshumlu Khan is the best; it is an enormous building,and a fine specimen of the ancient Turkish caravanserais . Themodern khan is of wood, merely supported by, or leant against,the more massive walls of the ancient structure. The greatstaple of trade here is rice, which has the reputation of beingfiner than that of Filibe. The fields which we passed to theright, before entering the town, produce the best. The yearlyharvest brings in about 150,000 kilos, reckoning the kilo at 10akka, each akka at 24 lbs . Rice, by the way, was introducedfrom Egypt, and first grown at Kara Reizi, three miles to the E.of Stenemaka. There is a great fair here in July and August,similar to that of Usundschowa ( see page 197) . The town contains 18 mosques and 5 churches.Leaving Bazardjik, we cross a bridge over a tributary of theMaritza, and soon afterwards the Maritza itself, and, keepingthe river to the R., pass a number of small villages to the N.On the L. we remark several Tumuli, which have given thename of Karaman Tepeler to the village a little beyond (tepesignifies hill, mound) . Three miles from Bazardjik, we crossthe Tscharganlu-su, and 2 miles beyond the Yeli- dere- su, justbefore the village of Demirdjiler, or the Iron- worker—a namedenoting the presence of iron in the vicinity, as borne out by thefact. Large quantities of iron are produced from the ore foundin the mountains to the west. The village, of 30 houses, isentirely populated by Bulgarians, Christians, and a stronghearty race of people. Beyond Demirdjiler, the mountainsdraw closer around on both sides. Between Dimirdjilerand the next place, Sarambek, we cross three streams, allof which are named Yeli-der-su, being branches or arms ofone river divided thus for the irrigation of the land. Sarambekis a clean neat village , with handsome houses, and the abodeof a rich Osman, Achmed Bey, who has built himself acastle- kind of a villa of most remarkable form, something likoR 2244 GUIDE TO TURKEY.an iron-furnace, with two towers projecting out from both sidesat the top.The valley becomes narrower every moment, and 2½ milesfrom Sarambek we join the Maritza. Soon afterwards we pass theremains of a Khan to the R., with the Karaghul or chief guardhouse on a height close by. Here the traveller will have toshow his Teskere or Buyurdi, and take guards with him, as thevalley or pass we are about to enter is by no means safe.Within ths of a mile we reach the first Bekleme or guard- house.The ascent is easy, and there is generally a strip of cultivatedland between the road and the river. Gradually the scenerybecomes wilder, the Maritza foams and boils over its rockybed of granite and slate, and presently we cross a kind of Devil'sBridge over a tributary coming from the L. We now come tothe second Bekleme; the precipitous sides draw closer together.Amile and a half further on we come to the fourth Bekleme, andcross a bridge over a mountain torrent opposite a most romanticmass of limestone, gradually merging into a red kind of marble.Then comes the fifth and last Bekleme, guarding the entranceofthe Kusterwa Deresi, a valley on the L., with the peak of theKostendje Baini at the head on the L. We now come toGabrowa, consisting of only a khan and five or six tumbledown huts, where the people live on starvation. You can getnothing whatever here. Continuing our way past the Bekleme ofGabrowa, we cross a small torrent, and about half a mile beyond the Maritza itself, which we leave pouring out of a gorge onthe L. Although this arm retains the name of Maritza, theriver we still follow on our R. has a greater abundance of water,and hence gives the valley its name, Sulu-dere, the Valley ofWaters. Sometimes it is called Isker by mistake, as it has noconnection with the Isker at Samakowa, and Banya-su, fromthe fact of its flowing past Banya.The scenery now becomes of gentler character; meadows andarable lands appear, and on the slope of the hills to the R. wesee the village of Sulu- Koi, the Village of Waters.About a mile beyond we come to a valley on our L., splittingup into a number of romantic gorges and chasms at its head,ROUTE XVI.--FILIBE TO SOPHIA. 245with the village of Kostenje perched upon a green hill in themidst. Gradually the valley becomes wider; on the R. we seethe high road leading to Ikhtiman, and in about an hour's time(3 m. ) we reach the Baths ofBanya, which, to distinguish themfrom those in other parts, we will call Banyasi- Samakowo.There are two baths here, as usual-one for males, the other forfemales. The temperature of the water is 49° at the spring.After leaving the baths behind, we pass the cemetery, andbetween garden walls along the side of several brooks, arrivingin about ten minutes in a large open space, surrounded by finegroups of trees, where we find two Khans. The nearer one isthe best. This is the town ofBanya,Twenty-nine miles from Bazardjik, 2,000 ft . above the sea,and numbering some 180 houses, about equally divided amongstthe Christian and Moslem population. The situation of Banya,the " Mother of Springs, " as it is called, is very romantic, at thefoot of a group of peaks, of which the highest are the Sivri Tash,8,000 ft. , and the Kurtowa Tepesi.Continuing our way, we leave the village of Radowitch abouttwo miles off on the mountain slope to the L. , and three milesand a half further on cross the Isker, or Banya- Su, severaltimes, finally leaving it to the L. On the R. we see the villageof Gutsa; and now enter a narrow forest glen, near the midst ofwhich we pass a bekleme, and further on the village of Tchipash, on a hill to the L. Turning to the left, we gradually de- scend towards the town ofSamakowo,Eleven miles from Banya. The Khan is passably good. Thechief streets are traversed by rivulets, with a raised path at eachside, with slabs of stone stretching from one to the other, a mostnecessary arrangement where the status quo is always eitherslush or water. The name of the town denotes its chief branchof industry-Samakov meaning iron-mine. It is situated onthe Isker, a river falling into the Danube, and contains several246 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ironworks, with about sixteen or eighteen furnaces, of the mostprimitive kind, and fifty- eight vine, or hammers.From Samakowo a road or, more properly speaking, a bridlepath leads direct to Sophia. It is a road very little known, butfor romantic scenery equals any part of Turkey. On leavingSamakowo, we take the road to the R.; one branching off onthe L. to Janlowa, a small village in the Witosch mountains,the chain of which we keep on our L. all the way, following thecourse of the Isker, the outliers of the Kodscha Balkan on theR., as far as Grubyan, 22 miles from Samakowo; 9 milesfurther on, we arrive atSophia.The situation of the mountain- enclosed Sophia is one of theloveliest from a distance we have yet seen in the provinces; but theplain in which it lies is dreary and monotonous in the extreme, andsad and sorrowful- looking from the tombstones in the cemeteryoutside the town. Atumble- down bridge spans the Isker, but, onthe plan of the accommodating reed, will bend and swerve asmuch as you like, but utterly refuses to fall or break. Theformer population was more than 150,000; now it is less than45,000 . The fortifications are crumbling away, and the trade,though still important, is nothing to what it was in the Romanage, when it was the centre whence roads radiated in alldirections, and to which the produce of the country all flowed.According to a tradition, one of the fair daughters of menfilled the bosom of one of the angels-of Lord Byron's kindwho became so enamoured of her, that he gave up his celestialprofession, and came to dwell with her on earth. After somelittle trouble, he induced her to fly with him-literally so, inthis case-and pitched upon the spot whereon Sophia nowstands . He here built an earthly home for himself and fairSardica, which became the nucleus of a town of the same name,by which it was still known in the time of Philip of Macedon.When the Romans had subdued these provinces, Sardica wasROUTE XVI.-FILIBE TO SOPHIA. 247chosen for the capital, and made the centre of those roads, ofwhich some remains are still extant. With the advent of theBulgarians and their increasing power, Sardica was deposedfrom its rank as capital, and Tirnova (see page 183) raised inits place, being the seat of the ancient Bulgarian krals, or kings,"in Christo Dei fidelis rex et Monarchum omnium Bulgarorumet Græcorum," extending their rule even into the Morea, whichis a Bulgarian word, signifying " outre-mer, " " beyond seas.'دوBut, some time previous to the Ottoman conquest, Sardicarevived; the Bulgarians erected a church there, and dedicatedit to St. Sophia-this mysterious saint, that is no saint at all,like the St. Anchor ( see page 158) —and henceforth changedthe pagan name of Sardica to the Christian one of Sophia.This church, now transformed into a mosque, is one of the finestspecimens of Bulgarian architecture. There are, however,still some remains of the heathen days, in the shape of the ruinsof a Grecian temple and a Roman amphitheatre.The great Khan still testifies to the former commerce ofSophia; it is a very extensive building, with numberlessgalleries, stables , private rooms, and is capable of lodging 1,000travellers, as the khanji told us. His statement, however, mustbe taken cum grano. There are several smaller and very goodkhans here, as well as mineral warm baths of considerable repute.The chief staples of trade are tobacco, cotton, silk, and leather.There is another road from Bazardjik to Sophia, or Sofi, bythe way of Hissardjik and the Balkan-Pass of KaprulovDerbend, where we still see the ruins of the castle and fortifications built by Trajan for the defence of this passage, one of themost important in the Balkan.In the narrow pass leading to ICHTIMAN, the ancient Sparata,the Bulgarian Haiducs attacked and slew Baldwin, Earl ofFlanders, when passing through with his followers. About20 miles from Ichtiman, we arrive at Novi Khan, and sooncome to GRUBYAN, already mentioned in the preceding route.248 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XVII.Samakowo to Monastir, via Rilo- Selo and Djumaa.LEAVING Samȧkowo, we cross the Isker, and, keeping it on ourleft, pass Yeni Maden (one mile) and Vezim- Vey- Vine (twomiles*) hammer-works. Beyond this (four miles) we again crossthe Isker, over a handsome stone bridge, opposite the rockygorge of the Demir- Kapu- Su (the River of the Iron Gate),which foams down from its source on the Suvri-Tash, and thenkeeping the Isker on our right, arrive at Sirpkoi ( 54 miles) , asmall village of thirty houses on the junction of two valleysthe Yedi Göler, or Seven Lakes, and the Demir Kapu, orIron Gate. The wildness and romantic scenery of the gorgewe are now about to enter upon is most impressive, and farsurpasses anything of the same character in Switzerland . Theentrance to the gorge is so difficult that we have to mount theslope in zigzags to the E. side, for about 300 feet, before we candescend to the bed of the river itself. Here the scene is oneof unparalleled grandeur and romance: mighty rocks, precipitouschasms; nut- trees and firs starting out of the crevices on thesteeps; the roaring river below. One scene of beauty follows theother in far too rapid succession; every turn, every step,displays some fresh view. We can truly say, that every rock,every spot, possesses a dozen different aspects, one as strikinglybeautiful and grand as the other. Eight miles of this weirdscenery brings us to Lake Ederi, whose clear blue waters , lyingin undisturbed tranquillity, seem like a strip of the heavensabove, fallen down into the solitude of rock and forest belowan eye of heaven resting on earth. The upper end is bounded

• The miles always count from the starting-place for the day: thus, the bridge is 4 miles; Sirpkoi, 5 miles from Samakowa.

ROUTE XVII. -SAMAKOWO TO MONASTIR. 249by a picturesque hill, which prevents the waters from enteringthe valley of Rilo, and is crowned by a simple cross, markingthe lonely grave of a hermit who passed his days in the solitudeof this romantic spot, undisturbed in the contemplation ofnature by the toils and labours of the world without. Onturning the projecting mountain cape dividing the valley we arein, from that of the Rilska, we commence descending in zigzags through a most magnificent forest of slender pine- treesstanding up straight and tall from their mossy bed, and in a veryshort time we gain a glimpse of the Monastery of Rilo. Thedense forest, however, soon envelopes us again, till the valleygradually enlarges, and 200 to 300 feet below us we perceive abuilding rising above the pine-trees, the oldest monastery inthe valley, and dedicated especially to St. John, ó ❝yios ’ Iwávvns ,the patron saint of the whole monastic establishment. Tenmiles beyond, on a green slope at the foot of the rocky precipice,we perceive the second isolated monastery, Bosnits, or that ofSt. Luke, o ayos Aóukas , with about thirty monks. Thencea few minutes past a series of wooden sheds or huts belonging to the labourers of the monasteries, we come to the chiefstructure, the MONASTERY of RILO, or μovaoτýpiov tŷs Píλas,which, according to a tradition of the monks, is situated onMount Orbelos. It was begun in the 15th century, by a hermit,and afterwards extended to its present size, filling up nearlythe whole breadth of the valley, and forming an irregularsexagon, or rather a four- sided figure, with a projecting angleon the N.E. Three sides of the building are divided intoheights of three stories each, by rows of colonnaded galleries;the fourth side contains the rooms for the servants of themonastery.The church (Byzantine) stands in the middle of the court,and an ancient tower of Bulgarian date rises in the N.W. anglebetween the church and the walls, and is said to have beenbuilt by Peter, King of the Bulgarians, as a protection for theholy hermit who lived there . The greater part of the monastery is devoted to rooms for the reception of visitors andpilgrims, who come here in great numbers, especially at the250 GUIDE TO TURKEY.festival of the Panagia, when they flock hither to the number of800 to 1,000.The peculiar beauty, the wild grandeur, of its situation isunequalled. To the N. rise the romantic mountains, of whichthe highest bears a cross , planted by a hermit who lived hereon the edge of the steep precipice, plunging down into thevalley below to a depth of 2,000 to 3,000 feet. We annex asketch of the ridge, as seen from the newest wing of the monastery. The ascent of the Helleni Vrachos should by no means beomitted: it is rather troublesome, and not quite without danger;but the wild sublimity of the mountain range above, and thetender beauty of the valley below, with the monastery embeddedin its groves, would repay the traveller for an ascent of twicethe difficulty. You can always find some of the monks or theirservants to serve as guides . The ascent will require about fourhours and a half; the descent, not much less. The height ofthe Helleni Vrachos is about 9,000 ft.; that of the plateau tothe E., 8,000 ft.We should recommend the traveller to use an alpenstock,and also to roughen the soles of his boots by a file, or bydrawing the point of a knife across them, wetting them, andalso providing himself with water to continue doing so, as thedry grass is so slippery that it is most difficult to keep one'sfooting.The view from Helleni Vrachos will never be forgotten, andwill remain a distinct picture to the last:-the sudden chasmplunging down into the depths below, like Death; the monasteryopposite, the symbol of Life; no better place could a hermitchoose for contemplation than this spot.ROUTE XVII. -SAMAKOWO TO MONASTIR. 251We strongly recommend future travellers to pass some daysin this district, and carefully examine it. It is as unknownas the sources of the Nile, and affords just as much materialfor a book as interesting as Captain Speke's.The usual native visitors pay 15 to 20 p. a day for food andlodging; but a tourist cannot well pay less than double, forwhich he will, too, receive accommodation double as good . Forthe ascent he will pay according to the number of guides hehas with him; but, at the same time, for a good Alpine climberno guide is necessary.For the identification of this spot with that of the ancientgeography, we subjoin a passage from the description of theMarch of King Sitalkes, by Thucydides: -Μέχρι γὰρ Γρααίων ['Αγριάνων] καὶ Λαιαίων Παιόνων καὶ τοῦΣτρυμόνος ποταμοῦ, ὃς ἐκ τοῦ Σκομίου (Σκόμβρου) ὄρους διὰ Γρααίωνκαὶ Λααίων ῥεῖ, ὁρίζετο ἡ ἀρχὴ τὰ πρὸς Παίονας αὐτονόμους ἤδη, τὰδὲ πρὸς Τριβαλλούς, καὶ τούτους αὐτονόμους, Τρῆρες ὥριζον καὶΤιλατῖοι· οἰκοῦσι δ᾽ οὗτοι πρὸς βορέαν τοῦ Σκομίου ὄρους καὶ παρήκουσι πρὸς ἡλίου δύσιν μέχρι τοῦ Οςκίου ποταμοῦ (Isker) .ῥεῖ δ᾽ οὗτος ἐκ τοῦ ὄρους ὅθενπερ καὶ ὁ Νέστος καὶ ὁΕβρος (Maritza) . ἔστι δὲ ἐρῆμον τὸ ὄρος μαὶ μέγα, ἐχόμενον τῆς Ροδόπης.Leaving the monastery by the W. gate, we keep the riverRilska, or Reka, on our L., and travel S.W., till we arrive at abridge, the Ornitzi Most (2 miles) , where we strike off to theN.W., and, a little way beyond, pass a farm belonging to themonastery. The valley is very beautiful, and geologically interesting, gneiss and slate interposing in a curious manner.Tobacco is grown wherever there is space .Pashtera (8 miles) is a small hamlet, overtowered by a peakcalled Diavolo Vodenitzà. Two miles beyond this we crossthe river, and in half an hour arrive at Rilo- Selo ( 12 miles) atthe foot of the Lovnitza, a wild, rugged peak, presenting theappearance of a volcano with the cone split, as it were. Quantities of tobacco are grown here; in the autumn, the housesare regularly festooned with the long strings of leaves hung outto dry. There is a branch establishment of the monastery here252 GUIDE TO TURKEY.-which, however, is not much more than a distillery-whereyou can find a good dinner, and any amount of raki .A very interesting excursion may be made from here to Dubnitzà, which possesses a Moslem shrine in opposition to Rilo,14 miles to the N. On the way from Dubnitza to Djumaa, wepass the gorge through which the Kara- Su, the ancient Strymon, forces its way, with the village of Boboshe at the entrance.Thence we follow the Strymon, past Borhan, to its junction withthe Rilska, which we then follow, turning to the L., as far asBairakly. The relative position of these places will be bestdescribed by a triangle, thus:--BoboskoDubnitzaBarraklyVRoadDjumadRilo-SeloThere is a shorter mountain cut from Rilo Selo to Djumaa,6 miles, as the crow flies , but we do not particularly recommendit. The best way is to follow the Rilska. The lower part ofthe valley is swampy, and the road led over a rough stone dyke.We cross the Rilska opposite the village of Bairakly (16 miles) ,two Tumuli onthe R. before doing so, and taking a S.S.E. course,arrive in about an hour's time at DJUMAA, 21 miles from theMonastery of Rilo. The traveller will at once perceive thatDjumaa is a Moslem town, not the less from the absence of theraki, than the appearance of the place. The Moslems here arepeculiarly fanatic, caused no doubt by their proximity to Rilo .There are some warm springs of 40° to 41° Réaumur. In thebasin of one of the baths there is a Greek inscription, but underthe water. Flax, and chiefly tobacco, is cultivated here to a greatextent; all the houses are hung with tobacco-leaves for drying.The direct route from here to Salonik, or Salonica, is by wayROUTE XVII.-SAMAKOWO TO MONASTIR. 253of the valley of the Strymon. The first day's march of 27 milesbrings us through the valley of Semitli (9 miles) , where we leavethe river and ascend the mountain slope, continuing along theplateau for 6 miles, when we descend and ascend the slopes of avalley through which some nameless brook runs.The sameexploit is repeated 8 miles further on, when we cross theTschinarly Dere and take up our quarters for the night (44 miles)beyond its entrance into the Strymon, at the village of Belitzakoi, at the foot of the Perin Dagh; thence another day's marchof 27 miles takes us across the Belitza and Sweliwratschi, pastthe western spur of the Arnaout Balkan-so called from severalArnaout villages on its slopes-to the town of LIBANOWO ( 16miles). In a plain between the S.E. extremity of the ArnaoutBalkan and the Strymon, 11 miles further on, we put up atBystritz Koi (27 miles) , on the N. slope of the Singel Dagh.Better quarters can be had at DEMIR HISSAR, 9 miles furtheron; but, in all probability, the tourist will prefer resting hisweary limbs at once.From Demir Hissar, the shortest way to Salonica is by wayof Likowary, that of the high road, via SERES, where it commences . We take the shorter one, passing Spatovo (4 miles)and Tatarmuhalle (7½ miles) , after which we cross the Strymon,which here forms a small island. Then keeping along its R.bank (1 mile to the L.) for about 5 miles, we come to Muhalle(16 miles) , and thence past Lachana (24 miles) to Likowan(26 miles) .Leaving Likowan, we proceed almost direct S. , past Gümendsche, following the course of a small stream falling into theUpper Lake of Klissaly, to Langadsu (13 miles) , whence aride of 10 miles brings us to SALONICA.Leaving Djumaa, we follow an arm of the Strymon, which wecross (3 miles) over a wooden bridge, a little above thejunction of the two, and enter a gorge, in the entrance of which(5 miles) stands a khan, Burkunik Khan, and, graduallyascending, come to the village of Podeshet (9 miles) , entirely254 GUIDE TO TURKEY.populated by Bulgarians, Christians. The villages assume adifferent character in this valley; they are built in separategroups, at some distance from each other, each group bearingthe title, Kuliba, or hamlet. Podeshet consists of about 200houses, in five or six distinct groups. Further on we come to amill (11 miles) , and thence to Gabrowa ( 12 miles) . The sidesof the valley are well clothed with wood; nut and pear trees onthe lower, pine and fir on the upper slopes . Still mounting forone hour and a quarter, we come to Pantcher ( 17 miles) , andthence past several brooks and springs to Tchernik ( 21½ miles) ,a small town inhabited entirely by Tatars-Bulugbaschi, asthey are called . The women are all clad in long black garments.From here we have a long pull over a rather uninteresting plateau,and, crossing a couple of small ravines, arrive at BEDJOVA (28miles) . Here we take up our quarters in the Yeni Khan, alarge new khan, the ground floor of which is used as a brandyor raki shop, benches running all round the room. The placecontains some 380 houses, of which 300 belongs to Moslems,two mosques, and a campanile.From Bedjova, we take a S.W. direction, past a farm and thevillage of Smoimir half a mile on the height to our L., and,crossing the Bregalnitza (5 miles), arrive in twenty minutes atLadimmi (6 miles) , where we enter upon the Pass of KetchiKaya-Derbend, one of the longest and narrowest passages inTurkey. It is no less than 18 miles from Ladimmi, at the E.entrance, to Podareshé at the W. end. The pass is not muchmore than a ravine, wild and romantic in the extreme, and sonarrow that there is often no room for the path and the river,and it is impossible for two parties meeting on horseback to passwithout dismounting. The name of this rocky defile is very appro- priate "The Pass of the Chamois Rocks, " being the translation.Ten minutes from Ladimmi we come to a bekleme or karaoul,aguard-house built like a citadel of solid stone, with a garrison often men. Here the path leaves the level of the brook, and windsup the rocky slope to the R., and we have over an hour's mostdifficult riding, the foaming brook deep in the forest depths below.Wethen descend again, and soon arrive at a series of four water-ROUTE XVII. -SAMAKOWA TO MONASTIR. 255mills, at distances of to 1 mile from each other, after whichwe enter Podareshé, 24 miles from Bedjova. There is, orwas, no khan here; so you will have to look for quarters in someprivate house. Leaving Podareshé, we turn N.N.E. , past thevillage of Oreovitza (1 mile) , with a fine campanile on the R.,and Kaklish, 3 miles further on, to RADOWITCH (5 miles) , onone of the tributaries of the Strumnitza. The khan here isexecrable. The road now proceeds almost direct S.: 22 milesbeyond the town, we cross the road leading from Ukub to Seres,and shortly commence the ascent of a mountain-range, and crossing an intervening valley, arrive at Gedina, a hamlet of thirtyhouses, at the entrance of the gorge, which we now follow; andthen, ascending a ridge of highland, descend again into thevalley, past the tomb of a Moslem santon, with a hospital andfarm, called Ghazi- Errenos- Turbesi, to the Moslem quarter ofKONTCHA, 22 miles from Podareshé. The town lies in tworavines; the Moslem quarter is the E., the Christian one the W. one. There are the ruins of an old monastery here, with amassive tower, like the one in Rilo, and the pedestal and antiquestatue near the church of Sweti Spas, but without any inscription.The khan lies close to the mountain slope, and the khanji wasat one time imprisoned for a year for having fed and concealeda band of robbers in his house, which he was compelled bythem to do. The band was afterwards destroyed by the inhabitants of a neighbouring village, and the khanji thereforeset free.Leaving Kontcha (it will be necessary to have a strongerguard than usual-at least four men-for this day's march) , weturn to the N.W., on a road remarkably good for Turkey, andplanted with trees on each side, like an avenue; it winds alongthe N.W. slope of a mountain-range of most peculiar configuration. At every 1,000 to 1,200 yards, the side is split, as itwere, into a ravine, out of which ripples a streamlet. We passno less than twelve of these defiles, with their waters, betweenLubnitza and Gabran, 7 miles from Kontcha, a village bearingan evil reputation for robbery and murder. Here we turn256 GUIDE TO TURKEY.again to the S.W. The path, often not more than five inchesbroad, winds up in a most perilous fashion; a wall of rock onthe R., a darkling chasm on the L., falling down 200 to 300 feetinto the depths below. You must dismount here, as there isnot room enough for the right leg to pass, unless at the risk ofa broken knee- cap. In about half an hour we reach the villageof Promet, at the foot of a peak of the same name. On the S.W.slope to the L., we see the village of Kallia, perched up abouthalf- way, at a height of 600 feet. The scenery is wildly romantic,the mountain ravines, gorges, and precipices intermingling inthe most picturesque confusion. Five miles more from Prometbring us, after a gradual descent into the valley of the Vardar, tothe banks of which we have still 2 miles. There is no bridgeover the river, and it is too deep to ford; but there is a ferry.You have to pay 1 piastre for each horse, piastre for eachperson.The opposite banks are steep and rocky, and in a line with theferry a small stream flows into the Vardar. This stream wefollow to NEGOTIN ( 17 miles) , in a barren wilderness of limestone, consisting of two quarters -one with its campanile, theother with its mosque. It is a miserable place, scarcely distinguishable from the earth on which it is built. Five milesfurther on we pass a still more wretched hole, Marina; but, onemile beyond, the village of Glish*tch presents a more favourableappearance. It is a Moslem village, as evidenced by theminaret. The road hereabout is roughly paved, on account ofthe swampy nature of the ground, and in about half an hourwe arrive at KAFADAR, 26 miles from Kontcha. Both the khansare miserable holes, and the traveller must send his dragomanor kiradji to look for quarters in some private house.We should advise the traveller by all means to make anexcursion from here to the Demir Kapu, or Iron Gate of theVardar. It is an Iron Gate as one would picture to oneself,nothing like the Danube Demir Kapu. The river forces its waythrough a gorge, in which the precipices, several hundred feetin height, tower over the foaming stream, not more than 800 ft.space between the two. Near the entrance there are the RuinsROUTE XVII. -SAMAKOWO TO MONASTIR. 257of a citadel on a hill to the R., in which it is said there is aninscription . Banya also at the entrance is a deserted bath . Ifthe traveller choose, he can proceed direct from here along theVardar to Awret Hissar (36 miles), and thence to Salonica (24miles) . The road, however, is not very safe, and he will have totake a strong guard part of the way; at any rate, from Kafadarto Gradiska, just beyond the Demir- Kapu. The scenery ofthis route is sublime and awe- striking in a great degree; blackand lowering, no sign of vegetation, it seems just made forvillany and cut- throats. The distance from Kafadar to theDemir- Kapu is about 14 miles.Leaving Kafadar, or Kafadarz, as it is also called, we proceeddue W., and soon reach the Kutschuck Kara- Su, three miles,and enter the valley of the Raitch, a wild mountain- torrent,foaming through a gorge similar to that of the Demir- Kapu,though not on quite so large a scale . We cross and recross theriver several times, and about five miles from the entrance ofthe valley leave the bottom, and, winding up the slope on ourright, rejoin it about six miles further on. Beautiful,wild, rugged, and wooded scenery. Following the river on ourleft, we come to Troyak, 164 miles, and winding round the baseof the Koziak, 5000 feet high, arrive at Pletvar, 20 miles,where we enter upon the long basin-like valley of Prilip andMonastir. To the north we have the mountain-range of theDobnitza, with a Bulgarian monastery on the top, calledSweti Bogaritza, and on the west end the ruins of a fortress,built by the celebrated Bulgarian prince, Marco Koli. Then,passing the village of Sinista, one mile to the left, we arrivepast a cemetery on the left at PRILIP, 25 miles from Kafadar.The town contains about 12,000 inhabitants, is well built, anddivided into nine quarters, each of which possesses its mosque.There are several churches besides. The ruins of the castle wehave already referred to are very interesting, dating from thetimes of the old Bulgarian kingdom: four towers and a bridgeare well preserved. At the E. foot of the mountains, below theruins , lies the village of Varosh, a term denoting the trading S258 GUIDE TO TURKEY.portion of a town in contradiction to grad, citadel, or fortifiedmilitary town, thus showing that the castle must formerly havebeen of importance.In the cemetery there are fine old Roman tombstones, richlysculptured.On leaving Prilip, we turn S.S.W., leaving the town ofKurshowa perched up on the crags of the mountain- range, risingto the N.N.W. about 1,000 ft . above the plain, and 15 miles off.We pass the villages of Buyuk- Oba ( 1 mile) , Derotsa andKadikoi (3 miles) on the R., Alintche (2½ miles) , a number ofsmall hamlets and villages on the L., and cross the Kara- Su,or Tcherna-reka ( 10 miles) . Here we approach the S.W. footofthe Kurshowa Dagh, and, following a really good road, arrive,past a watch-tower on the rocks, atMonastir,Twenty-three miles from Prilip . TOLI MONASTIR, or BITTOGLIA,as it is also called, is situated on a river taking its name fromthe town-Monastir- Su , at theopening of a valley, formed bythe Sukha Gora in the S. , the Peristeri in the W., and thecontinuation of the Kurshowa Balkan. It is one of the mostimportant military points in Turkey, and consequently there isalways a considerable force stationed here.The town is built on the site of the ancient Heracleia, and inall ages has, with the beautiful plains around it, been the sceneof endless sanguinary battles ever since its colonisation by theMacedonian kings. In the N. it commands the approachthrough the pass of Ochrida to Albania, as Florina, further S. ,does at the entrance of the pass to Kastoria. Greek and Roman,Goth and Vandal, have passed over these plains; the ServianKings defeated the Byzantine Emperors: finally came theMusselem, who, when the monasteries, churches, and privatehouses were each transformed into as many forts, utterlydestroyed any sign of Christianity, and, from the great monasterythere, changed its name from Bittoglia to Toli Monastir.ROUTE XVII. -SAMAKOWO TO MONASTIR. 259The barracks and artillery depôt here are vast structures ,kept in the best of order; the hospital is well conducted; thekhans are good; the bazaars extensive and well stocked; andaltogether the traveller will seem to be breathing European air-for though Turkey be in Europe, still the foreigners south oftheDanube always speak as though they were in Asia-and will beagreeably surprised at the number of Europeans, either in tradeor the service of the Porte. There are also consuls of the chiefnations stationed here . In 1862, the English consul was Mr.Calvert.Monastir, in its outward aspect, is something like Mostar inthe Herzegowina. The modern buildings are European; thenarrow streets, numerous mosques, and tumble-down housesquite Turkish. The Monastir- Su runs through the town inseveral branches, contributing in no small degree to its salubrity.The ancient town would seem to have been built on theadjoining mountain slope; some remains, broken-down pillars,&c. , are still to be seen, overgrown with grass and parasites.We should strongly recommend an excursion to the Peristerimountain- range: the ascent can easily be made in a day.The town itself contains a very heterogeneous population ofabout 50,000 souls. Jews are especially numerous, mostlySpanish, and well off.Monastir is the starting-point for travellers to Novibazar andBosnia, to Ochrida and Scutari. We shall therefore have toreturn to it later.8 2260 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XVIII.Monastir to Mount lympus and Salonica.WEhave an easy day's march before us, not more than 18 miles,from Monastir to Florina. We leave the town by the S. gate,passing the barracks on our R., and the café Abdi Pasha onour L. We then pass Bukova on the mountain slope to the R.,a pleasure-resort of the monasterians; and, close to it, amonastery-Keshish Khan. Here we cross the bridge (14 mile)over the stream on which Bukova is situated; further on, atKristohor (2 miles) on the L., there is an iron spring, the waterof which is much drunk by the Osmans. An Arnaout campshere, with glasses for visitors . Continuing along the mountainbase, the slopes laid out in vineyards, which produce a greatnumber of grapes, we cross numerous mountain streams andvillages on both sides; to the R. and L., we arrive at YukariKleshtina (14 miles) , situated in a ravine on the R., where weadvise a rest. There are the remains of what appears to havebeen a fortified monastery, like Rilo, about midway on the N.slope.Resuming our journey, we pass Kilidaro (14 miles) , with twovery old oaks by the way-side. Thence past Kaubasitza(15 miles) to Florina (18 miles) , at the entrance of the pass toKastoria. The approach in former times was guarded by acitadel, of which the ruins still exist on the S. side of theentrance. Florina has about 8,000 inhabitants , mostly Moslem,contains seven mosques, and is the seat of a Mudir. The khanis good.Departing from Florina, we turn due E., and after one hourand a quarter arrive at Lodjeri (4 miles) . Thence we strike aS.E. course, past Peshoshlitza (1 mile) , and another couple ofROUTE XVIII. -MONASTIR TO SALONICA. 261oaks (ten miles, to Banitza ( 12 miles) , a small post town of300 houses, Bulgarian. The khan here is large and good. Thereis also a direct road from Monastir to Banitza (22 miles) throughthe plain; but the one we have given is the pleasantest . Herethe pass of Kyr Derbend, the " Forest Pass, " commences, theeσßʊλǹ tŷs Aúykov of Thucydides, iv. c. 38. Livy (xxx. c. 39) alsodescribes this pass, and speaks of the thick forest as formingone of its chief difficulties. The ascent is easy: we pass amezar ( 14 miles) , or tomb, empty, and arrive at Tcherova(15 miles) , where we already gain a sight of the peak of GözTepe, some 30 miles off, and soon after, on the L. below, LakePepertika, divided from the larger Lake of Ostrova by anarrow mountain ridge. Passing a khan, we descend the slope,the lake on our L., to Sorowitch. Numerous vineyards. Thenceto Ellivitch, before reaching which we have a splendid view ofLake Ostrova on the L., the Lacus Begorites, surrounded byhigh, barren mountains, with a mosque on the N. end, built outinto the waters, whilst on our R., in the far distance, we perceivethe Lake ofKastoria gleaming in the sun.One mile and a half from Ellivitch, we arrive at Tchaltchylar,25 miles from Florina, 12 miles from Banitza, and 1 mile fromthe shores of the lake on the E. It is a small village, but has alarge konak overlooking it, and, in 1864, was the residence of acertain Emin Bey, a very gentlemanly and hospitable Osman,who will do all in his power to promote the comfort of anytraveller who pays him a visit.The lake contains plenty of fish; the water is very good-agreat boon for the inhabitants of the district, as there are no springs or rivers around.A large cemetery extends along the shore at the W. end, andamong the tombs there are several antique remains, especially aRoman statua togata.The village itself has 260 houses and 2 mosques. The peopleare all Moslems.Resuming our journey, we cross the high land to Alban- Koi(4 miles) , and the ravine on which it is situated. Thence toKailar Ashagar and Kailar Yukari (7 miles) , Upper and Lower262 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Kailar, a town divided into these two quarters of about 800 to1,000 houses and four mosques. We continue our way alongthe valley, forming, most likely, a lake in former days , of whichLake Ostrova is the only remnant; past Tchiftlik- koi ( 13 miles) ,and then enter the pass (17 miles) leading to Kozane, past thevillages of Karandalar, Fedirly, and Islamly. Before enteringthe pass, we have a view of MOUNT OLYMPUS, or KatarinaDagh, easily recognisable by its remarkable form, rising in thedistance.KOZANE, 22 miles from Tchaltchylar, with its tall campanile,creates a very agreeable impression: it is a Christian town.Market and khan are both good. The campanile (94 feet high)is one of the finest in Turkey, built at a cost of 90,000 piastres .The *view from the top is magnificent; Mount Olympus presenting one of its most picturesque sides . Kozane is the seat ofa metropolitan, and contains about 5,000 inhabitants, who, bythe way, support a school with three masters, for Greek andLatin, the yearly income of which is 40,000 to 50,000 piastres.Leaving Kozane, we skirt the S. base of the Göz-Tepe,turning S.E. past Djirdjiler (3 miles) , Ketscheller (7 miles) ,1 mile to the L. Here we enter a hollow or slight valley, and,crossing the Indje- Kara- Su (10 miles) , arrive at SELVIDJE(15 miles), the ancient Phylakai, at the entrance of the defileleading to Elassona, which was formerly defended by a fort, ofwhich the ruins are still extant on the L. or E. slope of the pass.A solitary tower of massive foundations still remains of theancient stronghold which commanded the entrance of theΒωλοῦ στενά of the Grecians. Livy speaks of the pass(xliv. c. 2) as " jugum Cambuniorum montium Volustana ipsevocant. "Judging from the present appearance of the remains, theywould date from the time of Samuel, King of the Bulgarians,in the tenth century. In 1259 it was in the hands of theCrusaders, and besieged by the Emperor Cantacuzene. Cantacuzene (c. iv. c. 19) describes it minutely.In Selvidje itself, near the church of St. Theodore, are theremains of what is called the Palace of Kiz- Kiral, the King'sROUTE XVIII.--MONASTIR TO SALONICA. 263Daughter; who, as the story says, defended the castle againstthe Turks, and when she could no longer hold out, cast herselffrom the heights of the precipice, Pharanga.Leaving Selvidje, we pass close to the ruins of the castle,after entering upon the narrow gorge of PHARANGA. Wild,romantic scenery. Near Nehor Tchiftlik, a splendid view ofMount Olympus. Twenty minutes further on, we come to thefirst bekleme, which now succeed each other at regular intervalsafter we enter upon the second part of the pass-a gorge of thewildest character, deep, narrow, and dark, the very home ofbanditti, and where the path has to cross the river foamingbelow no less than forty times within a distance of no morethan 3 miles; we now arrive at the khan named Sandropu,24 miles from Kozane, and where we take up our quarters forthe night. The khan is a bekleme also.The country between Sandropu Khan and Elassona is open,but much cut up, solitary, and lifeless in the extreme. ButMount Olympus, in the distance , varying in shape at every turn,always fascinates the eye.Ten miles from Sandropu we arrive at ELASSONA, divided bythe river into two quarters; that on the L. the Moslem, that onthe R. the Christian quarter.There is nothing of interest in Elassona, excepting the Greekmonastery, containing various Grecian inscriptions. The newchurch is merely a shell. Some pious widow left a legacy of40,000 p. -a sum so inexhaustible as it appeared to the inhabitants, that they had a plan drawn up, of which the wallsalone just swallowed up the whole.Elassona is the best place to make one's head- quarters for theascent of Mount Olympus, for which the Mudir, Hassan Bey,if he still be here, will afford every assistance. We can onlygive a slight sketch of the route; for Mount Olympus, althoughit appears such a mild-looking mountain, is in reality a verydifficult one to ascend.On leaving Elassona, we follow the road we entered thetown by for about 3 miles , when we branch off to the right,past Ormanly (6 miles) , or Sadowa (in this name a proof of the264 GUIDE TO TURKEY.relationship of this Slavonic race with those of Bohemia) , Dinitza(8 miles) 1 mile to the R., and Bazarly (10 miles ) toBARAKLY ( 11 miles) . To the R. of this place, which was entirelyburnt down in the war of 1854, are the ruins of a temple, twocolumns of which are still standing; but, curiously enough, theone on which there is an inscription stands upside down, andpart of the inscription is buried in the earth . Although itwould seem to date from the second century of the RomanEmpire, still it is most probable that this was the site of thetemple at Pythion, which formed, with Doliche and Azoros, thePierian Tripolis ( see Livy, xlii . c . 53) .Three miles and two- thirds beyond this we come to Selos onthe R. Opposite to it rises a rocky eminence, which is one ofthe rival candidates for the site of Pythion; it is called Hellisby the people around, and is said to bear the ruins of a formerstronghold of that name. Twenty minutes further on we come tothe village ofKokkinoplo, opposite which, 1 mile to the W.N.W.,lies a third rival Pythion. These three sites most likely formthe Pierian Tripolis.Here begins the approach to Olympus . There is a straightroad leading to Katarina, by which the mountain is avoided.ASCENT OF MOUNT OLYMPUS.Guides are necessary; provisions, wood, and water mustalways be taken. Papa Joannes, the Greek priest of Kokkinoplo, will afford all the assistance he can.For the ascent we turn up the gorge, E.S.E., for three miles,where we make a bend of 1 mile S.S.W., to a funnel- shapedhollow, of 100 ft . diameter, called Smeos, oµéos, generally containing water—a fact worth remembering. From here we proceed almost due E. , slightly bearing to the S. for four miles;first along the edge of the gorge or lakkos, and then down intothe ravine itself, where there is a tumble-down stone hut builtby some shepherd, in which it is possible to pass the night.There must be some camping out somewhere, and this is asgood a place as any other. The spot is called bythe nativesROUTE XVIII . - MONASTIR TO SALONICA. 265eis tò σkaµvî, and is about 6,500 ft . above the level of the sea;the night will therefore certainly be cool, so keep a goodfire.We now skirt the end of the gorge running to the N., calledMikro Gora, and, crossing the ridge or plateau in a N.E. direction,arrive at the Scholeion (σkoλeîov) , at the head of an E. branchofthe Mikro Gora, called Trani Gora, a vastrockyamphitheatre.From here we keep on for about 1 mile in the same direction,N.E., and, with great difficulty, climbing over and creeping alongnarrow ridges but a few inches in breadth, and chasms fallingdown hundreds of feet into the depths below on both sides, tillwe reach the so - called Porta, where we have one of the mostmagnificent mountain views in the world; a wild, stupendousgrandeur, sublime in its ruggedness, that fully explains theGrecian fables concerning the mountains of the gods . From thePorta we follow the narrow mountain saddle to Mount Elias,where there is a chapel containing an altar and a few utensils.No water! *View magnificent: the blue Gulf of Salonica atour feet; Mount Athos, on the island of Lemnos, in the fardistance.Hence we descend along the slope and gorge of the Vithos ina S.E. direction. A saw-mill, Prionia, lies at the mouth of thegorge; 13 mile further on, the Monastery of Dionysius, whichcontains a painting of the 12th century, formerly in one of theMeteora. Most likely the monastery is situated on the site ofa temple to Dionysius or Bacchus. From here to Letokhori,one mile from the sea- coast, we have a ride of 2 miles alongthe brook.LETOKHORI is entirely populated by Christians, numberingsome 2,000 or 2,500 souls, and possesses a peculiar branch ofindustry-the manufacture of thick waterproof mariner cloaks,of which they produce some 150 yearly, at a price of 850-1,000 p.each.Resuming our journey, we leave Letokhori, and cross theVithos Enipeus (1 mile) , soon after which we gain the sea- shore.Two miles and a half beyond we cross the Mavroneri, over abridge named Papas Koprusi, where we curve round to the266 GUIDE TO TURKEY.left and reach a bekleme (5 miles) , after which we cross thePelekas (7 miles) , and soon afterwards arrive at KATARINA (9miles. The road now lies through a plain, covered with fernsand groups of plane- trees here and there.Buyuk Ayan (13 miles) , to the left, is a small village of ratherbad character. Here we ascend on to higher ground, coveredwith dense brushwood and bushes, where the road is occupiedfrom time to time by sentinels or guards, in consequence offrequent robberies. Descending, we pass the ruins of a churchdedicated to St. Peter, and come to the village of Kitros (17miles), consisting of a few solid houses far apart . Four milesto the left we see Cape Atherida stretching out into the sea.We now pass the battle-field of Pydna, the town of which laysomewhere near Eleuthero- Khorio (21 miles) , unless Kitrositself occupy the site, and still contain a trace of the ancientname, which was originally Kydna, as mentioned by Stephanus,de Urbibus, page 392; Amsterdam, 1678.At Eleuthero we strike off to the N.E., to Libanovo (27miles) . We advise the traveller to continue his journey, andcross the Indje- Kara- Su (29 miles) , the ancient Haliakmon,and take up his quarters in one of the huts of a Wallachiancolony, Klidi-Ta- Kabylia (31 miles) , where, at any rate, he willget a good supper.Leaving Klidi, we continue W.N.W., and reach the old bedof the Vardar (43 miles) , and then the Vardar itself ( 6 miles) ,the ancient Axios, whose acquaintance we already made nearNegotin. Besides the first old bed, we cross two more—onenear Valmadi ( 8 miles) , the second half a mile before Latra(13 miles) . Just in the middle, between the two, lies Kalakia,a village of 200 houses. Numerous tamarisks growhere in thesalt-ground, caused by the saline nature of the Vardar. Twomiles from Latra we cross the Galliko, the ancient Echedoros,and to the left perceive the gorge whence it issues, where theCastellum Gallicum once stood, which has given the river itsname. We now approach the sea, and skirting the gulf arrive,after a ride of 21 miles from the banks of the Haliakman, andpassing a large Tumulus, atROUTE XVIII. -MONASTIR TO SALONICA. 267Saloniki,Or SELANEK, the ancient Thessalonica, and take up ourquarters at the *HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.Of late years cottonAfter Constantinople, Salonica is the largest and most flourishing seaport of European Turkey. It contains 80,000 inhabitants,of which 20,000 are Turks, 25,000 Greeks, and 35,000 Jews, possessing no less than 27 synagogues. Thetown is built in terraces,rising in semicircles from the sea to half the height of the hillupon which it is built. Consuls of all nations reside here,besides numerous European merchants. Its chief trade consists in silk, saffron, iron, copper, and the manufacture of thecelebrated Turkish towels and carpets . Tobacco also in greatquantities; the best is that of Yenidje.has also become an important article. The whole of the townis surrounded by a massive wall, the lower part of Cyclopeanmasonry, the upper part of brick. There are only two gates init, E. and W. It is governed by a Pasha of Three Tails and aMollah. The Greeks have an Archbishop; the Jews, a ChiefRabbi. The Jews here mostly speak Spanish, having beendriven out of Spain towards the end of the fifteenth century.Many of the Moslems were originally Jews, and form a set forthemselves, with the name of Sabatei Zewi; the common peoplecall them Mamini. They keep aloof from the Moslems as wellas the Jews, practise the religious customs of Islam, but neverintermarry with real Moslems, read the Talmud in secret, andstill adhere to many Hebrew customs. They themselves aredivided into three sub- sects , living very much after the fashionofthe Kilkenny cats in regard to each other.There is plenty of sport in the neighbourhood; quails , wildducks, pheasants, &c. The bazaars and market are well stocked;and, finally, to complete the modern picture of Salonica, it isfilthy in the extreme, and unhealthy from the malaria whichprevails here during the summer, and reaches its height duringAugust and September, in consequence of which the Europeanslive as high up the.hills as possible.The ancient name was Therma, and was changed to Thessa-268 GUIDE TO TURKEY.lonica by Cassander, in honour of his wife, a sister of Alexanderthe Great. The present citadel occupies the site of the oldAcropolis, and contains the remains of a Temple of Hercules,consisting of several pillars of verde- antico, or Atracian marble,from the quarries on the other side of the gulf; also aTriumphal Arch, erected under Marcus Aurelius, to the honourof Antoninus and Faustina. The Osmans call the present castleJedi- Kule, the seven towers, which towers were built by theVenetians.In the Jewish quarter are the remains of the Propylea of theHippodrom, consisting of five Corinthian columns, supportingan entablature with eight figures, called by the Jews "LasEncantadas," "The Enchanted; " by the Osmans, "SuretiMalek," "The Figures of the Angels. " They are:1. A Victory;2. A Female, supposed to represent Helen;3. A Male, representing Paris or Telephus;4. Ganymede, carried by an eagle;5. A Bacchante, playing a flute;6. Bacchus, with a panther;7. Ariadne;8. Leda, with the Swan.The ROTUNDA is supposed to have been built under Trajan,and somewhat resembles the Pantheon at Rome. The inside iscovered with mosaic. Fine *pulpit.CHURCH OF ST. SOPHIA, now turned into a mosque, containssome beautiful columns of verde- antico and a magnificent bema,or pulpit, of the same material, as well as the steps leading upto it. According to tradition, St. Paul preached from thispulpit, when he was at Thessalonica (Acts xvii. 1); but thishonour is disputed by theMOSQUE OF ST. DEMETRIUS, which is the most beautifulmosque in the town, with a double colonnade of verde-antico onboth sides, and chiefly lined with marble.TRIUMPHAL ARCH OF AUGUSTUS, or the Gate of the Vardar.It was erected after the battle of Philippi , in honour of Octaviusand Anthony, with square blocks of white marble; on oneROUTE XVIII. -MONASTIR TO SALONICA. 269side, the names of the magistrates then in power are all inscribed.The TRIUMPHAL ARCH OF CONSTANTINE, with a bas- reliefrepresenting the Triumph of Constantine. It is built of brick,in three arches, encased with marble, much of which has disappeared; what remains, however, is very richly sculptured.MOSQUE OF ESKI DJAMI, formerly a temple of the ThermeanVenus, with six columns of the Pronaos built into the wall .Cicero spent part of the time here during which he wasbanished from Rome.270 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XIX .Salonica to Constantinople.WE leave Salonica by the eastern gate, and, passing thecemetery, in about half an hour we come to a Tumulus, as largeas the one we passed on entering the town. About 5 milesfurther on we turn from our north course to the east, through adefile, the heights on both sides crowned by ruins-part of anaqueduct. Thence we descend into the plain, and arrive at thetown of Langadzu, 114 miles, with the lake of St. Basil on ourright, along which we continue for some time, and arriveat KLISSALI, 28 miles. Here we enter upon the plain ofGülvashtchi, and pass between two remarkable rocks rising outof the plain, strongly resembling some ancient ruin. Thencomes Lake Betshik, the shores of which we follow to the townof BUYUK- BETSHIK, where we put up for the night, full in faceof the glittering expanse of water, whose shores were a favouriteresort of Euripides, who died from the wounds inflicted uponhim by the Esterices, a breed of dogs peculiar to the country.His tomb is supposed to be somewhere in the neighbourhood.On leaving Buyuk- Betshik, we come to Kutschuk- Betshik(4 miles) , and. then to the E. extremity of the lake (7 miles) ,and enter a defile, following the river that flows out of it. Ruinson the R. Five miles of this defile bring us to Erenderi Khan,whence we turn to the N.E., the mountains close on our L., thesea on our R. Three hours' easy marching brings us to theStrymon (23 miles) , whose acquaintance we already made atDjumaa. Here we are ferried over, and, skirting the gulf atsome little distance from the shore, come to the ruins of Amphipolis, consisting of the remains of an aqueduct and the walls ofthe town. Shortly afterward we ascend a hill, and, crossing it,ROUTE XIX. -SALONICA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 271descend to Orphano ( 28 miles from Betshik) , a village of about70 houses, and one mile from the sea. Small fort on the hill.Leaving Orphano, we strike off due E. for three miles , andthen turn N.E. past Dedeler (5½ miles) on the L., through thevalley of Mustania, highly cultivated, and teeming with grovesand fountains. Many Moslem cemeteries and antique remains.Towards the end of the valley there is a group of plane- treesovershadowing six or seven springs . Then comes PRAVISTA(15 miles) , the ancient Drabiscus, a town of some 3,400 to 3,800inhabitants. We now enter upon the plain of Seres and the ruinsof PHILIPPI, about 7 miles on the L., on the slope ofthe Mountains ofDrama. The village, built near its site, is Filibdscheh.The ruins consist of the remains of an amphitheatre, severalsarcophagi of white marble, and three colossal columns of atemple of Claudius. The historical interest attaching toPhilippi is, however, greater than that of its material grandeur;for it was here that Paul and Silas were imprisoned when theearthquake set them free (Acts xvi. 23-25) , and whereOctavius and Antonius gained their victory over Brutus andCassius, 42 B.C."Brutus.-There is a tide in the affairs of men" Cassius.-Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune;Omitted, all the voyage of their lifeIs bound in shallows and in miseries .On such a full sea are we now afloat,And we must take the current when it serves,Or lose our ventures.Then with your will go on;We'll along ourselves, and meet them at Philippi."Julius Cæsar, Act iv. , Scene 3.Five miles and a half from Pravista we pass Wasilaki; westrike off to the E., and, ascending the mountain- ridge on our R.,descend to the town ofCAVALLA, 27 miles from Pravista, built on a promontory,opposite the island of Thaos in the distance. Cavalla(Austrian Lloyd station) is the ancient Neapolis, where St.Paul landed on his journey from Troas and Samothrace272 GUIDE TO TURKEY.(Acts xvi. 9-12) . The citadel is very dilapidated; butthere is a fine aqueduct on two rows of arches, supplying itwith water from a branch of the Rhodope, Mount Pangæusforming two narrow defiles close to the sea, formerly defendedby walls and forts . Cavalla is the birth-place of the celebratedMehemet Ali, of Egyptian fame.Leaving Cavalla, we pass an ancient well; the mouth of thewell deeply furrowed by the ropes-a proof of its antiquity.Beyond this we come to the *Aqueduct, which, dating fromthe Macedonian kings, and repaired by Ibrahim Pasha, providesthe citadel and town with water. We ascend part of MountPangæus, now called Pangea, by a paved military via. Fine

• view of the bay, which we now skirt, and, crossing another

spur, pass the ruins of a gateway, formerly closing the road.We enter a plain, skirting the mountains on the L. , on which arethe remains of a fort (9 miles) , and continue our way till wearrive at the banks of the Kara- su, the ancient Nestos. OfAbdera, the home of Democritos, the laughing philosopher,which was situated on the E. side of the embouchure, nothingremains. On the hill, 9 miles to the L., lies Karabunar, theshrine of some Moslem santon.Crossing the Kara- Su in flat- bottomed barges, we arrive, aftera march of 7½ miles, atYENIDSCHEH, 27 miles , or Yanitza: population 1,200—2,000.Resuming: Four miles from Yenidscheh, we pass the stonebuilding formerly occupied by a santon, with a box for thetraveller to throwhis superfluous paras in. Almost every Moslemthat passes it will contribute, as they do in all parts of theempire where these pretended madmen pitch their quarterswith a decided method in their madness, inasmuch as theyalways choose a well- frequented road or, still better, a pass. Wenew come to an arm of the sea connected with it by a narrowopening, the Palus Bistonis of the ancients. On the W. end arethe ruins of a large monastery, fortified like that of Rilo, butevidently more strongly, and the remains of the ancient town ofBistonia. The appearance of these ecclesiastical ruins amidheathen temples and Grecian remains is explained by the factROUTE XIX. -SALONICA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 273that Bistonia was an episcopal see, within the Archbishopric ofTrajanopolis . Lucan mentions the Bistonians-"Sanguineum veluti quatiens Bellona flagellumBistonas, aut Mavors agitans."-Lucan, Pharsal. , 1. vii .The village near by is Jafy- Koi, a corruption of Bôar Kalis,and the modern name of the Bay of Lagos.Passing a number of cemeteries, no villages near, and thetombs of numerous Moslem saints, which no doubt have induced the natives of the villages around to bring their deadwithin the range of their sanctity, we come to the ruins ofanother tower (18 miles) , apparently of Bulgarian origin. Alittle way beyond, we cross the Ak- Su, and shortly afterwards ,passing a large Tumulus, arrive atGUMURDSCHINA, 25 miles,a town of about 5000 inhabitants, with a considerable commercein corn and cotton.Leaving Gumurdschina, we pass the village of Narly- Roi,and enter upon a dreary plain, and cross the Jaradymly, 9 miles ,over a bridge of nine arches; and, three miles beyond, a secondof eight arches. The road here leads to the N.E., and at thevillage of Kopeklukoi, ( 10 miles) , we enter a defile, whenwe have a ride of fifteen miles toPERISTERIA, (27 miles) .From Peristeria, we march due east across some elevatedterritory and divers streams, the first being the Bodama Tschai,the last, the Lydscha Deresi, till we arrive at FERIDSCHIK (10miles) , and three miles beyond cross the Maritza (Hebros) , our oldfriend at Filibeh. There is no bridge, but a ferry. Thence wecross a dreary, swampy plain toACHYRKOI (28 miles) ,a Greek village, whence a road branches off to ADRIANOPLE, viâIpsala and Dimotika.From Achyrkoi the country is of the same dreary nature, untilwe arrive at Keschan, orRUSSKOI (9 miles) ,a clean little town at the base of a romantic ridge of hills, anda favourite resort of European merchants from the various townsT274 GUIDE TO TURKEY.on the Dardanelles. Pop. 5000 to 6000. It does a good dealof trade in cotton, corn, and tobacco.The country is now hilly and stony, and presenting nothing ofinterest till we arrive atMALGARA ( 24 miles) , a town of some 5,000 inhabitants, wherewe find no more to interest us than before.We have now got a long ride of 30 miles before us to RODOSTO.On leaving Malgara, we traverse a series of bleak, solitaryplains, resembling the steppes of Russia, and passing a fewinsignificant villages, such as Derwendschi (11 miles) , and, onthe ridge of a range of hills sloping into the plain, two largeTumuli, just before descending to Dewelü ( 14 miles) , arrive atYENIDSCHIK, or Ainadschik ( 17 miles) . The country here ishilly, but dreary and barren in the extreme, the road windingup and down for miles; and, with a sense of relief, we at lengthreachRODOSTA (30 miles) , Austrian Lloyd station.The ancient Bisanthe, a considerable town on the Sea of Marmora. It formerly contained a Jewish university, according toBenjamin of Tudela, who says:-" inde in Rodoston veni, ubiIsraelitarum univeritas, " etc. The commerce consists in theexportation of wool, fish, and wine to Constantinople.On leaving Rodosto, we pass several Tumuli, and the villagesof Kasa Oglu (4 miles) , Kalivri (8 miles) , Köprüdschi, Turkmenly (15 miles) , Osmandschi (23 miles), toESKI EREKLI (27 miles) , or Old Erekli, in contradiction toBuyuk Erekli, or the ancient Heracleia, about 9 miles to theS.W., on the Sea ofMarmora.A little way beyond Eski Erekli, we join the road comingfrom Adrianople, and thence proceed to Silivri and Constantinople (see Route XV, page 200) .SKETCH OF SERVIA. 275SKETCH OF SERVIA.In the days of Nimrod, the mighty hunter, there lived awoman who evidently ought to have been his wife, for she wasno less addicted to the chase. The rivalry between the two, however, became so great, that Asia was not large enough to supportthe two; so the fair huntress, Illyria, fled to Europe, where hermerits were better appreciated by an angel, who descended toearth and married her. From this union there sprang threesons -Czech, Lech, and Rouss. When their father had instructedthem in worldly and heavenly wisdom, he sent them forth intothe world. Czech founded the Kingdom of Bohemia; Lech, theKingdom of Poland; and Rouss that of Russia. Their parents,meanwhile, established a mighty kingdom; and the direct presentdescendants of this family are the Servians.This seems to us merely an absurd tradition; but so stronglyhas this same tradition of the fair Illyria penetrated into theServian popular mind, that it is as good as the most authentichistory-and a great deal better, too; for it unites the existingraces to such an extent that the injuries sustained by one areconsidered as inflicted on the whole; for, since 907, when theBohemians were subdued by the Germans, who called theMagyars, fierce barbarous Huns, to their aid, both have everbeen an object of hatred to the Slavonic families; so much so,indeed, that, in 1448, the Servians deserted John Huyady, andleagued themselves with the Osmans.When the Servians had embraced Christianity, they stipulatedthat they should not be subject to the government of the GreekEmpire; but, in the eleventh century, the Greek Emperorsdetermined to annex their (the Servian) dominions, and, in 1043,sent Constantine Monomachus to effect their subjugation . Hewas utterly defeated, and the Grand Shupanes (the reigningheads) thereby all the more firmly established .In 1189, they offered to hold Nissa as a fief from Friedrich T2276 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Barbarossa, who, however, declined; and Gregory VII. afterwards was the first to recognise the Grand Shupane as Kral, orKing of Servia.In 1341, John Cantacuzene and Stephen Dushan concludeda treaty—became pobratimi in fact-according to which theenemies they jointly conquered should be allowed to choosebetween their new masters. This soon gave rise to endlessdisputes, ending in Dushan's invading Thrace, Macedonia, andBulgaria, even to the gates of Byzance.This time (1347-57) was the zenith of Dushan's power,extending from the Danube to the Mediterranean, from theBlack Sea to the Adriatic. He even had a grandee of the German Empire as commander-in- chief, 1355.With his death, however, and the appearance of the Osmans,his successors gradually lost what he had gained, and with thebattle of Kossowa they lost their independence to the victoriousMoslem. When Hunyady arose, they leagued themselves withhim; but, on his answering a question put to him, by saying that,in case the Turks were defeated, he should insist upon Servia'sembracing the Latin faith, Brankovitch, the Servian leader, asked the Sultan what he would do in case of victory, Build achurch by the side of every mosque, and allow the people tocross themselves in Christian churches, or bow beneath thecrescent, according to their respective faiths. " This led to thedesertion of the Servians from Hunyady.66Henceforward, Servian history is bound up with that of theOttoman Empire, and includes an endless series of rebellionstill 1806-7, when the Servian hero, Kara- George, regained theindependence of the country in so far that it was held merely asa fief from the Porte, and paying a certain tribute, But in 1813Kara- George deserted the Servian cause, most likely discouraged, and fled to Austria, and was afterwards assassinated byMilosch.TheOsmans took possession of Belgrade, the citadel of whichthey have retained until recently, when it was given up to theServians, who are now in a state of only nominal dependence on the Porte.SKETCH OF SERVIA. 277The Servians are a tall, well- formed race, free and hardy,strong and active; with a bold look of independence, they closelyresemble the Scotch Highlander. He is brave in battle, andhighly hospitable; but here his similarity to the Scotchmanends. Unlike them, he is a bad tradesman, too idle to till theground, is cunning and crafty in the pursuit of wealth; alwaysavoiding falling within reach of the law, but always prepared topervert it, and circumvent justice with her own weapons.278 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XX .Belgrade to Sophia.THERE is nothing of any importance to be seen in Belgrade,beyond what we have already mentioned (page 151 ) . We willtherefore at once commence our journey.Leaving the town, we take a S.E. direction , along a very fairroad, passable even for carriages, and, after a ride of about 10miles, rejoin the Danube, winding along the mountain slope toGrozka (152 miles) , whence we descend and ascend the mountain slope to Brstowitz ( 18 miles) , and thence descend into theplain toKOLAR (24 miles) ,our night-quarters for the first day. It is a small village withonly one khan, where the chief annoyance will be caused by thesmoke, few of the Servian khans being provided with a chimney.Leaving Kolar, we soon cross a tributary of the Morava, andsoon after passing Glibowatz (43 miles) , where we turn to the S. ,ascending the slope of a mountain spur, the Raila Rika. Thecountry gradually becomes wilder, and covered with denseforests, assuming a most beautiful park-like appearance; andevery now and then, as we wind along forest, hill, and ravine,we catch many a glimpse of the Danube on our left, and of itstributary, the Morava. Thus we arrive at HASSAN PALANKA( 13 miles) , a small town of about 800 inhabitants; thencethrough the same forest scenery of gigantic oaks, their branchesteeming with starlings, pigeons, and nimble squirrels , and anoccasional wild cat. Droves of pigs, grunting and snorting aboutin quest of acorns, with their swineherds like a perambulatingarsenal, meet one continually. About five miles from Palankawe ascend a mountain spur, on the foot of which liesROUTE XX. -BELGRADE TO SOPHIA. 279RATSCHA (22 miles) , a small place on a tributary of theMorava.From Ratscha to Batotschina (5 miles) we still pass throughthe same scenery, and then wind along a mountain slope ,ravines, forest, and valley intermingling, to Dewebagrdan (9miles) , at the entrance of a defile , and on a small river. Thencea ride of 9 miles brings us toJAGODINA (23 miles) , a town of about 4,000 inhabitants. Thekhan is good, and there is a glass manufactury here, erected bya M. Tomitch, a Bohemian, who first introduced the manufactureinto Servia.Resuming our journey, a ride of 6 miles brings us to Tchiupria, when we cross the Morava over a fine wooden bridge, and4½ miles further, the Lupkova. We then ascend the Juor- Gora,where we obtain a magnificent view of the mountain landsaround. We now continue over a series of rugged steeps and,defiles, covered with thickets of underwood, past Schupeljak,on the mountain slope to the L., to Ra- Chan, 27 miles fromJagodina, where we shall have to pass the night. From here aride of 10 miles through the same wooded and beautiful mountain scenery brings us toAlexinitza,On the Moravitz, and the frontier town of Servia towardsTurkey, It is one of the most important places in Servia, forming, as it does, an entrance for produce to and from Constantinople and the Danube. Population, about 6,000. After leavingAlexinitza, we soon arrive, over a picturesque country, to thevillage of Drugevatz, and cross the river of the same name, whichforms the boundry between Turkey and Servia. Thence wepass through a short ravine, guarded by a Bekleme, and thentraverse a steppe-like plain, which gradually becomes more fertileas we approach the town ofNissa,Eighteen miles from Alexinitza. Population, 20,000280 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Nissa, the ancient Naissos, is one of the oldest towns inTurkey, and, according to the Rasci, was founded by them onthe banks of the river now running through it, the Maischawa,one ofthe chief feeders of the Morava. The Greek traditionsascribe its foundation to Philip of Macedon. Constantine theGreat was born here, in 272.The town is divided into two parts by the river, which iscrossed by an old covered wooden bridge, and, like every largerSlavonic town, has its Grad, Varosh, and Palanka. The GRADis the fortified eminence or citadel, and the seat of the Pasha,Caimakam, and all the chief officials , and, in the case of Nissa,the mosque. The VAROSH is the trading portion, containingthe bazaars, and generally surrounded by a ditch and walls, orpalisades with gates. The PALANKA contains the suburbs.There is a beautiful *view from the citadel. An excursionshould be made to Tatar, a village in the vicinity, where thereis a tower built with the skulls of Servian rebels imbedded inthe mortar, a ghastly memento of the war of independence.From Nissa the road passes through the valley of the Moravato Banya (6 miles) , at the foot of a range of hills which we ascendto Jeleschnitza (9 miles) and Ak- Palanka (16 miles) , where weapproach the Nischawa, and then continue our way along theplain between Kara Jaila Dagh on the R., the Nischawa and theZrni Wrh Planina on the L., toPIROT, Or Scharkoi, 36 miles from Nissa; thence we keep closeto the Nischawa, the mountains gradually approaching, toZaribrod (15 miles) , where we cross the river, and recross it2 miles further on. Three miles beyond this, we cross it athird, and six miles further for the fourth and last time, afterwhich we arrive in about two hours atCHALKALY (27 miles).Here we enter upon the plain traversed by the various sourcesof the Isker, with the Sumughu Dagh and Stara Planina in thedistance on the L., and the outworks of the Vitosch mountainson the R. A ride of 17 miles brings us toSOPHIA (see Route XVI, page 246) .ROUTE XXI.-BELGRADE TO WIDIN. 281ROUTE XXI.Belgrade to Widin.THIS is one of the most interesting routes for picturesquebeauty in the whole of Servia. We should advise the travellerto take the boat to Smederevo, a town of about 5,000 inhabitants. We give a skeleton description of the route.From Smederevo, or sem*ndria, the road proceeds due E. overthe mountains, and, crossing the Morava, which divides into twoarms some 14 miles to the S., we arrive at Pojerevatz ( 14 miles) ,and thence to Golubatz (36 miles) , on the Danube, with theruins of a fortress of the same name, comprising eight towersjoined together by curtained walls. It bears several Turkish inscriptions, and in many parts of the walls may still be seen thearrow-heads whichprove their existence before the time ofcannon.There is also an intermittent spring here, ebbing and flowingevery half-hour. From here, the road winds along the precipitous mountain-side, and not far from Golubatz commence a seriesof caverns extending as far as Dobra. The largest of thesecaverns is not far from the ruins, a little above the road, and infested to an extraordinary degree by swarms of gnats of thespecies Simulium reptans, whose sting is so severe that cattleare often killed by them within a short time. The cavern itselfis half filled with water.The scenery is now most wild and sublime. Remains of theVia Trajana and its ancient fortifications are still to be seen.Thus we come to the iron gates and, further on, the Castle ofMilanowitz, with the town of the same name. Then, skirtingthe river, we come to Golubinje, and, turning N., to Kobilova,nearly opposite Orsova, whence the road follows the Danubeto Gladowa, where it cuts off a bend of the river, andregains it at Kamenitza, and thence along the shores to Brsa282 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Palanka. The bend between this place and Golubatz can becut off by the mountain road, along which there are the mostmagnificent views.Brsa Palanka is the only port the Servians possess below theiron gates. From here the road leaves the banks ofthe river, andcrosses the Servian frontier near Negotin; the river Timok, alittle further on, forming the boundary. About 20 miles pastthe frontier, we join the Danube at WIDIN. ( See p. 152.)ROUTE XXII. - KIUPRI TO RAVANITZA. 283ROUTE XXII.Tchiupria, or Kiupri, to Ravanitza and Manassia.FROM Tchiupria (see Route XVIII, page 279) , we strike E.through the forest, and, after a ride of 6 miles, arrive at theMonastery of Ravanitza, built at the foot of an abrupt rock, theburial-place of King Lasar. The whole is surrounded by awall and seven towers, which also enclose the former residenceof the king. The church is in the Byzantine style, one largecupola in the centre, and four on each corner. It contains amagnificent cup, a gift of Peter the Great, and several costlychalices from the Empress Catherine. The body of King Lasarwas buried here till 1683, when it was taken to Virdnik. Inone of the square towers Milosch Obilovitz sojourned , whokilled Sultan Murad in the battle of Kossowa. From here, ninemiles N. bring us to MANASSIA. The road leads through denseforests, and crosses numerous streams and torrents, and, onrounding a precipitous rocky promontory, the Monastery ofManassia bursts upon the view, with its donjons, towers, and,walls of all styles surrounding the ancient church. It looksmore like a feudal castle of the middle ages than a peacefulmonkish abode, and presents the anomaly of a castle built in1400 still serving the same purpose, in the 19th century, forwhich it was originally erected -the protection of its inhabitantsfrom the attacks of banditti and the Moslems. Stephen, the sonof King Lasar, built it . From one of the towers there is aremarkable echo, the slightest whisper being heard on the rocksabove, a distance of about 200 feet.The traveller should by no means omit visiting these twomonasteries, as well for their antiquity and romantic positionsas for the insight into Servian monastic life. If proceedingtowards Belgrade, he can join the high road at MEDWEDIA,which will bring him to SMEDEREVO, and thence by boat toBELGRADE.284 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XXIII.Belgrade to Serajewo, via Schabatsch and Zwornik.[The mileage always commences with the starting- place of each day's journey. ]ON leaving Belgrade, we follow the Save, keeping it on our R.for about 3 miles, when we make a sudden bend to the S.E. ,to the village of Sharkovo (4 miles) , and rejoin the river nearOstraschnitza (9 miles) , where we proceed due S. for 6 miles,when we again turn E., and, crossing the Kolubara by means ofthe ferry, arrive atPALESCH, or PALEZ ( 19 miles) . The khan is good.The road from here passes through beautiful green fields andforest land in a slight curve N.E. to Skela (8 miles) , where weagain join the Save. A ferry at this place establishes communication with Austria, between which and Servia the Save formsthe boundary. Skirting the river through the most lovelyavenues of stately oaks, the road sometimes rising high enoughto permit a glimpse of the meandering Save, we arrive at Usze(12 miles); thence we continue along the river for about 5 miles,when it makes a sudden bend to the E., and we see no more ofit until we arrive past Trbusatsch, atSCHABATSCH (32 ) miles) , a flourishing town; population 12,000,of which 2,000 are Osmans, living in a quarter of their own,round about the citadel on the banks of the Save. There is aslight mixture of German style in the houses and appearance ofthe town, arising from its proximity to the Austrian frontier.The Konak is a fine building, with projecting roof and baywindows. The citadel was built by Mohammed II. , and wasbesieged in vain by King Matthias, of Hungary, in 1475, and wasalso the scene of numerous sanguinary conflicts during therebellion of Kara George. The merchants of Schabatsch haveROUTE XXIII. -BELGRADE TO SERAJEWo. 285a reputation for extraordinary sharpness in trade. A proverbsays " One Greek will deceive twenty Jews; but oneSchabatscher will deceive twenty Greeks. "Leaving Schabatsch, the road we follow on this day's marchtraverses a richly wooded country, interspersed with fields,gardens, and pastures. We first reach Sleptchevitch (54 miles) ,soon after which we cross a stream and some undulating groundto Ribari (14 miles) , whence we turn E.S.E., Ljesnitza (20 miles) ,Lipnitza (25 miles) , andLOSNITZA (28 miles) , a small town, situated on a spur of theGUTCHEVO MOUNTAINS, and the seat of a Natchalnik orcollector, an office corresponding to that of a Mudir or Sheikh.The river Drina, which forms the frontier between Servia andBosnia as far as Perugatz , flows about one mile to the W., itscourse well defined by a fringe of willows on the Servian andthe abrupt wooded hills on the Bosnian side.We strongly recommend the traveller to make an excursionfrom here to the Monastery of Tronosha, about three hours' rideoff, in the woods to the E. The road lies through magnificentforests till we arrive at a mountain- enclosed space in which themonastery is situated, strongly fortified by walls, gates, and towers, enclosing the church and ecclesiastical offices . Thechapel contains some curious pictures in the Byzantine style.The whole scene, with the pastoral surroundings-the ripplingstream in front and the herds of cattle grazing in the luxuriantgrass-quite enamours one of a monkish life. Servian patersshould be the happiest mortals on earth.Resuming our journey from Losnitza, we proceed due S.,keeping the Drina about two miles distant on the L., andpassing Zajatza (4 miles) and Sakar (9 miles) , on the Drina,which we follow, till we arrive at Mali Zwornik, and cross theDrina, oppositeZWORNIK ( 13 miles); population, 9,000, nearly all Moslems.The seat of a Mudir, and capital of the Kaimakamate ofZwornik; the Kaimakam, however, lies in Tuzla. The town286 GUIDE TO TURKEY.is crowned by the half- ruined citadel, with its crenelated walls,which was taken by Margrave Louis of Baden in 1688, andretaken by the Ottomans in 1689.By no means should the traveller omit paying a visit toSokol, 14 miles from Zwornik to the S.E., and in Servia. Theway is by Krupanj (10 miles) . The position of Sokol, with itscitadel, is one of the most picturesque in the world; it is builton the summit of a pinnacle of rock, perched up on a solitaryfantastic crag, rising out of the valley, and surrounded byprecipices on three sides. The citadel is impregnable to anyenemy without artillery, and, in fact, was held by no more thanseven men during the Servian war of independence, and defiedall efforts to take it. There is a mosque in the wood close by.A sight of this romantic spot is alone worth the journey fromEngland.Leaving Zwornik, we ascend the mountain slope, past the oldcrenelated citadel, and cross the saddle of the Vratalovatsch,and wind along the slope, the Drina on our left, to Mekina(5 miles) , a village on our right. Thence the road curvesround to the west, over the Javornik Planina, which we thendescend, by numerous zigzags, into the valley of theDrinatscha. The valley is here about 3,000 feet wide; but ashort way below, to the east, it contracts, merely leaving roomfor the river. We are now about 5 hours'* distance fromZwornik, and commence a steep ascent over the PjesevinaPlanina (2206 feet) , and thence, through brushwood and mixedforest of oak, pine, and beech, gradually descend toVLASENITSCHA (8 hours' ride from Zwornik) ,or Birtsche, in Turkish, a small town of 800 inhabitants, andthe seat of a Mudir. It lies on a barren height, and suffersoften from drought. The khan is good .

• In Bosnia we will estimate the distance by hours; in a country where we are perpetually mounting or descending, the miles given direct form no criterion of the distance. A line of 10 miles as the crow flies may be extended into 30 by the hills intervening.

ROUTE XXIII.-BELGRADE TO SERAJEWO 287From Vlasenitscha, the road gradually ascends the Orlavatscha, one of the peaks of the Plotscha Planina, which we thendescend by numerous sharp zigzags , and, continuing for about1000 feet in the depth below, ascends the Vuksitsch andKraljewa Planina, till we arrive at Capori, a small villagewith Bekleme ( 6 hours) . We now cross the saddle, betweenthe Kula Planina on the right and the Studena Planina* onthe left, to Hannitsch (7 hours) , whence the road curves round toGLASINATSCH (9 hours) ,a small village, where we put up for the night.Resuming our journey, we cross the plateau of the StubeaniaPlanina, and then descend to Mokro ( 12 hour); soon afterwhich we cross one of the sources of the Bosna, and wind alongthe valley, in numerous serpentine bends, to Klok (4½ hours) ,and soon afterwards we see the fortress of Serajewo, with thetown, its minarets, the pagoda- like tower of the barracks, theMiljatschka winding through it, spanned by nine bridges, andenclosed in an amphitheatre of mountains, forming a most beauti- ful scene. Descending gradually past the citadel, we arriveat the town, and put up in the Antonaki Khan. Distance fromGlasinatsch, seven hours.Bosna Serai,As it is called in Turkish, SERAJEWO in Slavonic, and SERAGLIO in Italian.POPULATION, 45,000BRITISH CONSUL, Mr. Holmes.PRUSSIAN CONSUL, Dr. Otto Blau.AUSTRIAN CONSUL, Baron Haase.Besides these, there are also Italian, French, and Russianconsuls here.PASHA, Osman Vali Pasha.The town lies on both banks of the Miljatschka, which hereflows out of a romantic ravine between the Trebovitsch andPlanina, mountain- range,288 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Boria Planinas. The Hum and Merkvina Planinas in the N.the Boria Planina in the E., and the Trebovitsch Planinain the S. ( 5,100 feet) , and the plains of the Bosna, Jeleschnitza,etc., in the W., surround the town, with its gardens and domes,its 98 minarets, romantic bridges, and luxuriant foliage, forminga scene which is one of the most beautiful in Turkey. TheBosniaks call it the most beautiful after Constantinople. TheMiljatschka is spanned by four stone bridges, two wooden ones,and three wooden foot- bridges . The stone bridges were built in the 15th century. The bazaars are well stocked: silverfilagree- work has been introduced through Mr. Holmes, theconsul- general, and with great success . It was also owing tohis representation that Osman Vali Pasha, the governor, had aroad laid down, leading to the various consulates, whichwill bear comparison with any in Europe. Otherwise, thestreets are paved with what is known in Birmingham as"potatoes," requiring a most elaborate circ*mspection to avoidtwisting your ankles at every third step you take. Dogsinnumerable—a nasty hungry race-infest the streets andbazaars-licensed scavengers, in fact.The town itself is divided , after the mosques, into 100quarters. It contains, besides, one Latin, two Greek churchesand a synagogue.The chief mosques are the Sultan, or Czarewi- Djami, and theBegova- Djami. The latter has a spacious fore-court, with afountain in the midst, and 20 brass pipes feeding the basin.Some of the other mosques are very picturesque, especially onenear the bridge crossing a brook in the W. part of the town, onthe road leading to Kisseljok.Society in Serajewo is very agreeable, thanks to the exertionsof Mr. Holmes; and the traveller will well be able to enjoy himself here for a week before proceeding on his journey. Especially interesting is the Tscharschia, or market, on the L. bank ofthe river, containing fifty to sixty streets.The town of Bosna was built on the springs of the Bosna, 9miles to the W. of the present town, in 1235, and in the sameyear was made an episcopal seat by Gregory IX. In 1415, itROUTE XXIII. -BELGRADE TO SERAJEWO. 289was destroyed by Sultan Mahommed, and in 1463, after it hadbeen rebuilt, taken by the Ottomans, shortly after which theinhabitants emigrated to Serajewo, which was founded by twoBosnian magnates, Sokolovitsch and Zlatarovitsch, in 1465.Shortly afterwards, the Vizier, Kosren Pasha, built a castle onthe site of the present Fort Serai, whence the town took its nameof Bosna Serai.Bosnia.This province became subject to the Ottomans on the death ofScanderbegin the 16th century. With the Herzogowina it formsone mass of mountainous territory, the chains ofwhich connect theDinaric Alps with the Albanian system. They generally form aseries of short ridges and plateaus, running for the most part inparallel lines from the N.W. to the S.E., averaging a heightof from 3,000 to 5,000 feet. There are very few districts whereit would be possible to ride for more than a few hours togetherwithout having to ascend one chain after another, and it oftentakes a day to traverse a distance of not more than 10 miles asthe crow flies . The whole aspect of the country is wild, savage,and romantic. Vast forests of sombre pine, intermingled withoak and beech, cover the mountain slopes in most parts; ruggedmountain chains, bleak and bare, sparingly interspersed with afew fertile plains and valleys, such as the valley of the Narentain the Herzegowina, and the valleys of the Unna, Urbas, andBosna in Bosnia. With the exception of these and a few moreisolated spots, the province is as wild and rugged as the people ithas stamped withits character; but, on the other hand, it possessesa mineral wealth and an abundance of timber which only awaitthe opening up of the countryby a systemofroads and an enlightened administration to make it one of the richest in Europe.The population, though originating in one common stock withthe rest of the Slavonic races, speaking the same language, andpractising the same habits and customs, have become irrevocablydivided from their compatriots by the fact of the Bosnian aristocracy having adopted the Islam faith, in order to preserve its property. Bosnia, in consequence, has become the mostfeudal element in the whole of Turkey, and has not ceased to U290 GUIDE TO TURKEY.protest against the reforms of Mohammed II. and AbdulMedjid, even by the force of arms. This Moslem aristocracy—Moslem but not Osman-oppresses the Christian population,their own countrymen by race, language, and customs, to suchan extent, that rebellion is the general order of things in Bosnia,and especially the Herzegowina, where the Christian elementpreponderates, and is encouraged by its close vicinity toMontenegro.For Montenegro-called Kara Dagh by Osmans, Zrnagoraby the Slavonians, Malasiss by the Albanians—all which namesdenote the same, namely, Black Mountain-is the last remnantof the ancient Servian empire, and has sustained its independenceever since 1504. The population of Montenegro, by the way,has experienced a remarkable increase since 1606, when,according to the Venetian manuscript of Bolizza, it was nohigher than 33,000, and at present numbers over 140,000 souls .Religion.-The greater part are Moslemin-about 400,000 ofthe whole population. The Catholics number about 140,000,whose spiritual wants are attended to by a bishop, residing inBrestovsko, and 142 Franciscan priests who alone have theright to conduct the rites of the Catholic church in Bosnia.They came to this province in 1233, to combat the sect of thePaterenes, to whom we have already referred and now possessfour monasteries, at Fojnitscha, Kresevo, Sutiska, and Gutschiagora, near Trawnik. They exercise great influence over thepeople, are esteemed by the Moslems, and often called upon for advice.The Herzegowina has two bishops-one near Mostar, and theother in Ragusa; Catholic population, 48,000 . The monastery,at Siroki- Brieg, was built in 1847; here the Bishop of Mostarresides.The Greek Church counts 535,000 adherents in Bosnia andthe Herzegowina, and has three bishops-in Serajewo,Zwornik, and Mostar-who are nominated by the Patriarch atConstantinople. Their income is considerable-220,000 p.( £11,000); but the lower clergy are poor and ignorant. TheJews number about 5,700 in Bosnia and the Herzegowina.ROUTE XXIV.-NISSA TO NOVI-BAZAR. 291ROUTE XXIV.Nissa to Novi-bazar, via Orkub and Kurschumly.LEAVING Nissa, the road commences to ascend through anarrow cleft in the rocks; after which we traverse the plateau,and arrive, after a nine-mile ride, at Klissura, where we join theMorava, which we cross, and follow the course of the Toplitza,which here falls into the Morava, to Orkub (13 miles) , theancient Herculen. It is also called Prekoblje. It is an old,dilapidated town, the bridge in a most tumble- down condition;but the situation is very beautiful-the sides of the hillscovered with vineyards, and the banks of the river lined withverdant meadows.From Orkub we follow the banks of the Toplitza, skirting theslopes ofthe Jastrebatz Planina, and arrive, after a long pullof 18 miles , past various minor villages , at Kurschumly, at thefoot of the Lepenatz Planina.Here we leave the river, and, after a ride of six miles, arriveat Banya. Eight miles further on, we cross the Toplitza, andkeep along the left bank for about 2 miles, when we recrossit, and enter a defile of the Kopaonik Planina, and after a difficult ascent reach Lisino (27 miles) , on the western slope. It is asmall place of about 40 houses; but the khan is good.From here, three miles bring us to the foot of the Planina, tothe village of Rudnitza, whence we turn south to Jarenje, andcommence an ascent, after crossing the Ibar, to Bjelobrdo(13 miles) , where we have another difficult ascent across thesaddle between the Rogosna Planina and the Biela Planina,after which we descend toNovi-bazar,twenty-three miles from Lisino.Novi- bazar lies in a large basin, surrounded by the Golia292 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Planina in the north and the Rogosna Planina in the south. Itis built on the junction of several brooks with the Raska, is theseat of a Kaimakam, and contains about 9,000 inhabitants, whohave a considerable trade in wool, wax, and leather. In thefourteenth century it was the residence of the Nemanides; butBrankovitsch, after he had made himself King of Servia, transferred the seat of government to sem*ndria. The citadel orgrad was built by the despot, George of Rascia.There is a Roman bath in the neighbourhood well worthseeing; it lies half an hour's distance to the east of the town,in the little valley of Lydsche, and is very well preserved .Sexagon Tower. The church of St. Petrova, on the left bankof the Raska, half an hour from the town, is a very interestingspot, and, according to chronicles and documents in possessionof the church, is no less than 1,928 years old. It is said to havebeen built 62 years B.C., as a Pagan temple, and was transformedinto a Christian church in the time of the Apostle Titus . Theoutside appearance is insignificant; but the inside is vaulted, andsupported by eight stone columns, nine feet in thickness.The Moslems have often endeavoured to destroy it, but itssolidity baffled their efforts, and they only succeeded in breakingup a part of the south side, which has since been repaired in amiserable manner. The roof is covered with tiles, and surmounted by a little tower. The archives contain several documents and copies of the Evangelists in Cyrillian characters.Half an hour to the west of this church, on the slope of theGolia Planina, are the beautiful ruins of the monastery, JurjoviStupovi, built by the Servian king, Stephan Dragudin, in thebeginning of the 14th century. It still contains several frescoesand a portrait of Nemanja I.ROUTE XXV. -NOVI-BAZAR TO SERAJEWO. 293ROUTE XXV.Novi-bazar to Serajewo.LEAVING Novi- bazar, the road follows the mountain slope; theRaska, on the L., sometimes touching it, at other times a miledistant, to Jassenovik (5 miles) , Vutschnik (11 miles) , to Tschebinatsch (16 miles) , where it ascends in curve and zigzag to theplateau of the Vlaska, a rugged Karst* connecting the SuchaGorat and Golia Planina, whence we have a magnificent viewof the mountains of Montenegro, especially the Kom (9,000 ft.) .Twelve miles further on we come to Stavlja Khan, a fine newkhan, with stables large enough to accommodate 60 horses . Ifthe traveller do not intend to push on to Sjenitscha, he mustput up here; it is better than any khan in the town below.Shortly after leaving the khan we cross a torrent, and, nearthe village Bogut, commence the descent into the swampyelevated valley of the Vapa, and then over a hilly country toSJENITSCHA, 3 miles, or 10 hours' ride, from Novi-bazaran interesting place, in so far as it possesses a citadel built byKara George. It lies on the junction of the Vapa and Jablanitscha with the Uvatsch; contains 1,000 inhabitants, and, onaccount of its importance from a military point of view, hasbeen recently strengthened by some rather badly situatedearthworks. The khan is good.Resuming our journey, we cross the Uvatsch, a quarter of anhour's distance from the town, and, traversing a sparinglywooded hill- country, ascend and descend the Kremenik, andpassing the Lopiska- Rjeka, a small brook, ascend the saddlebetween the wooded ranges of the Zlatar and Jadovnik Planinas.

• Barren limestone rock; like that around Trieste.

† Gora Mountain. Ex. Tcherna-gora-Black Mountain.294 GUIDE TO TURKEY.We then arrive at the half-ruined fort of * Hissardjik, on thesummit of an isolated rock in a most romantic position (fivehours) . Here we commence a difficult descent, till we arrive atthe ruins of the Monastery of Milosevo, destroyed by the Ottomans in 1595, on the R. One mile and a half further on we crossthe torrent of Milosevo over a rickety wooden bridge, and, following the river , arrive in one hour's time atPRIEPOLJE, seven hours' ride from Sjenitscha.The town lies on the Lim, which here makes a sharp bendto the N. Population 2,000, mostly Moslems. The khan isgood.Ten minutes from Priepolje, we pass the village of Sarompov,and cross the bridge over the Lim. Keeping the river to the R.,we turn to the L., up the gorge of the Selasnitscha, a difficultascent of about one hour, and pass a curious triangular hole,quarried out of the rock, each side 3 ft. long, which St. Saba issupposed to have made with his elbow when he halted to resthis weary feet. The whole mountain range takes its name fromthis saint-Lakatsh- St. - Saba- Planina-the Elbow of St. SabaMountains. One hour's ride further on we reach the Karst basinof Rantsche, whence we have a splendid view of the Dormitor(8,000 ft. ) on the L. (W.) . Shortly afterwards, travelling upand down hill, we arrive atTASLIDZJE, or Plevlje, 7 hours from Priepolje. Population,2,000. The town is very beautifully situated in the valley ofthe Tschehotina, and its clean white walls and red-tiled roofsproduce a very favourable impression. The mosque is a handsome building, with a gilt dome. The town is also the seat ofa Kaimakam.In a ravine, to the N.E., the Greeks have a monastery,

• TROICA, surrounded by solid walls, with the church in the

centre-a very ancient structure; the walls are over six feetthick. It contains the sarcophagus of St. Saba, whilomBishop and the Duke of the Herzegowina, and his crozier andprayer-book, which were brought from Milosevo in 1595.Half an hour's distance from the tower, to the S.W., standsanother Greek church; and about one hour's ride up the valleyROUTE XXV. -NOVI- BAZAR TO SERAJEWO. 295of the Tschehotina, some remains of Roman antiquities; theyare said to be unimportant.Immediately on leaving Taslidzje, the road begins to ascendthe rugged sides of the Kovatsch Planina, and in about fourhours, after a neck-breaking tour up and down, we arrive at the Kovatsch Khan.From here the road is pretty fair, and becomes still betterafter we have passed the Balievitsch Khan; whence we arrivein 24 hours atTSCHAINITSCHA, eight hours from Taslidzje.This town possesses a miracle- working picture of the Virginin the Greek church, and attracts great numbers of pilgrims .The population of the place, which is on an elevation at thefoot ofthe Tschitschel Planina, is about 2,000.Resuming our travels, we pass the Greek church, and crossthe mountain ridge to Tfzar (6 miles) , where we join theTschehotina, and follow its meandering course toFOTSCHA: population, 10,000 (3 hours) .Prettily situated on the confluence of the Tschehotina and theDrina. It is the seat of a Mudir, and contains 19 mosques, mostof the inhabitants being Moslems. A Greek church has beenbuilding for some years, but is not yet finished.We now cross the Tschehotina, over a rickety wooden bridge,and follow the right bank of the Drina, to Usti- Koeina, where wecross over to the left bank, and follow its serpentine course.The valley is narrow, but gradually widens as we approachGORAZDA, 7 hours from Tschainitscha: population, 3,000.The Drina was here formerly spanned by a bridge, of whichsix well-preserved piers still remain. Otherwise there isnothing of interest.Leaving the town, we follow the Drina, and in about threequarters of an hour cross the Pratscha, over one of the mostrickety bridges man ever risked his neck upon. On no accountcross it on horseback; in fact, it would be dangerous even tosneeze till safe on terra firma. If you have any baggage-horsewith you, let him ford the river, which, though rapid, is not morethan three feet deep. The road now ascends the rugged moun-296 GUIDE TO TURKEY.tain- sides, after attaining a height of 800-1,000 feet, and theprecipitous slopes force the river to less than half its originalwidth. Opposite Medzidzie, the Lim rushes into the Drinathrough a narrow ravine. Beautiful scenery. The road becomesworse and worse, often vanishing entirely, till we at lastarrive atVISEGRAD (8 hours): population, 1,500.The town takes its name from the fortress (Grad) whose ruinscrown its height. It is romantically situated, surrounded byhigh mountains, on the Drina which is spanned by a handsomebridge of 13 piers, and 12 feet wide, at a height of 60 feetabove the water. Close to it, on the R. bank, are the ruins ofa bath and a caravanserai, which, with the bridge, were built bythe Vizier Sokolovitsch over 300 years ago. There is a woodenguard-house on the centre of the bridge.Leaving Visegrad, we ascend the slope to the broad ridge orplateau, the Semetsch Planina, and, after a ride of about24 hours, descend into the valley, and arrive at Rogatit*cha(4 hours) or Tschelebi Bazar, a small town of 1,400 inhabitants.We then ascend the mountain slope, and traverse the extensive plateau ofthe Romania Planina, past Senkovitsch, to Glasinatsch. Then, ascending the ridge, which occupies nearly twohours, we descend, by innumerable zigzags , into the gorge ofthe Miljatschka to Mokro, beautifully situated, and thence toSERAJEWO ( 11 hours) . (See Route XXIII, page 287.)ROUTE XXVI. -SERAJEWO TO SAMATSCH. 297ROUTE XXVI.Serajewo to Samatsch and Brod, via Varesh and Tuzlar.LEAVING Serajewo, we cross the hills to Vogostschia ( 1 hour),then recommence the ascent, crossing several ridges and shortplateaus, and descend into the valley of the Stabnja, whence weagain mount the slopes to the village of Strizevo. The roadnow becomes more romantic, and more difficult in proportion,leading over rugged rocks into the valley of the Stabnja, againhemmed in by beautifully wooded precipices. At one point,the road is carried through a projecting rock-a " verlorenesLoch " in fact-called Kapu, or Kapia, the gate. Descendinginto the foot of the valley, however, the road improves, with theexception of some swampy places. As we approach Varesh, wepass several iron- foundries; the ore is found in great quantities,and almost on the surface. We now arrive atVARESH, ten hours' ride from Serajewo. Population, 1,500 to2,000; nearly all Christians, and iron-workers, smiths, &c.Church and vicarage are both here. The iron here produced isof a very good quality; but the furnaces are of the mostprimitive kind. They are about 18 feet high and 6 feet broad,funnel- shaped, and the bottom closed with a stone grating .When the wood (which is used in great quantities) is once welllit, a layer of ore is thrown in, and then a second heap of wood.The melted ore is conducted by stone gutters, placed underneaththe grating, into water to cool, slag and all. The manufacturedproduce is sent from here, in the shape of agricultural implements, horse- shoes, &c. , to the interior, and even to Servia andthe Herzegowina.Resuming our journey from Varesh, we ascend the valley ofthe Stabnja, which we cross several times, and then over therocky slopes to the saddle of the Zarudzje Planina, consisting298 GUIDE TO TURKEY.chiefly of serpentine. From the ridge we see the loftyStoboria Planina on the R., with the village of Kamensko perchedup on the crags like an eagle's nest; and still further to the N.the massy Konju. The road now follows a steep descent throughmagnificent forests, and in many parts over a series of stepsformed of split trunks of trees , to the Tribia, whence we againhave a short ascent over the Kosia- Glava, when we reach thenarrow valley, hemmed in by rocky precipices , of the Krivaja,which we cross over a foot-bridge, consisting of one arch, witha span of nearly 150 feet. Close by stands the TscharevKhan. From this place, four hours' ride brings us toUSCUPTSCHE, eight hours from Varesh, a small village ofabout 500 inhabitants.The road from here to Banovatsch alternately ascends anddescends through tall forests; the rocks chiefly serpentine,mixed with bronzite. We then enter the valley of the Spreca,and passing Poljane, where there is an iron spring, arrive atDOLNJA-TUZLA, eight hours from Uscuptsche. Population,6,000.It contains a half-ruined citadel (grad) , with four towerstowards the four points of the compass. Not far from it thereis a celebrated saline spring, producing over 1,000,000 lbs . ofsalt yearly. The spring is framed with stonework; the mouthof it is 9 feet in diameter; the water- surface 12 feet from the top .The manufacture is very simple. The water is drawn up fromthe spring in pails, and poured into flat iron pans 3 or 4 feetin diameter, which are then heated, and upon which the salt isdeposited in cakes an inch thick. The spring is Governmentproperty.The town lies on the Jalla, the valley of which is here over2 miles wide. There are extensive coal-fields in the neighbourhood, not worked, however, and two hours to the E. there aresome more salt- springs at Gornja-Tuzla. Dolnja-Tuzla is theseat of a Vladika, or Greek bishop.The road from here leads through the valley of the Solina,crosses the Majevitscha Planina, and then descends into thevalley of the Sibostschica, which we cross forty or fifty times.ROUTE XXVI.--SERAJEWO TO SAMATSCH. 299There is a remarkable number of caverns on this part of theroute, before we descend into the plains of the Save toBERTSCHKA, nine hours from Tuzla. Population 3,000.It lies on the Save, across which there is a ferry, and is theseat of an Austrian agent. The houses are mostly built ofbrick.From Bertschka the road lies all the way along the Save;swampy, uninteresting country. We pass several unimportantvillages, and arrive, after a tedious ride of eight hours, atTurkish Samatsch, opposite the Austrian town of the samename.The Turkish town was founded and built in 1863, at theexpense of the Government, for the Moslem families who hademigrated from Servia. The houses are built in six rows orstreets parallel with the river, and upon piles 3 ft. high, to protect them from the frequent inundations. The population is2,000; governed by a Mudir.Soon after leaving the new town, we cross the Bosna bybarges, and then enter a series of wood, swamp, and jungle,ascend the slight eminences of the Kardar, and follow the Save,well- wooded heights on our L., till we arrive atBUSUD or BROD ( 10 hours) , opposite Austrian Brod. It is asmall, miserable place; so we advise the traveller to cross theriver on to Austrian territory, where the accommodation will bea few degrees better.300 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XXVII.Brod to Serajewo, via Dobol and Trawnik.THE road proceeds due S., and in about 1 hour we commencethe well- wooded mountain lands to the village of Lutschani(6 miles) , thence to Modran (14 miles) and Fotscha ( 17 miles) ,a prettily situated little village on the banks of a brook of thesame name. In about half an hour's ride from here the roaddescends into the valley of the Bosna, which is here 2 milesbroad, to the village of Kotorsko, surrounded by densely woodedhills. About 3 miles beyond this the river makes a considerable -shaped bend to the W., the open base to the E., theS. side of which we follow till we arrive atDOBOJ, or DOBOL (25 miles from Brod) . Population, 1,600.Between the town and the dilapidated citadel on the L. Thename is derived from the Slavonic " dvo boj, " i.e. two battles, inconsequence of the following incidents:-King Tvartko hadconfided the care of the fortress to Horvathy, Ban of Croatia,who was defeated and the citadel taken by King Sigismund ofHungary, in 1370; and in 1408 Sigismund defeated KingTvartko III. himself, took him prisoner, massacred 120 Bosniannobles, and cast their bodies into the Bosna. From these twobattles the place takes its name. In 1717 the fort was alsotaken by General Petrasch.Resuming ourjourney, we ford the torrent Ussora (21 miles) ,along the R. bank of which we continue for about 4 or 5 miles,when it makes a sharp turn to the W., and we leave it proceedingdue S.W. over the hills to the valley of the Tesanjska, andfollow its L. bank to its sources, on which the town ofTESANJ (13 miles) , population, 2,000, lies in an elevated position. It is the seat of a Mudir, Kadi, andROUTE XXVII. -BROD TO SERAJEWO. 301a Greek vicar, and contains five mosques. On a cone, close tothe town, arises a massive fort of considerable extent, going toruin, like the rest of its brethren, but affording a fine view, andforming a picturesque item in the landscape.From Tesanj we gradually ascend the saddle of the TscherniVrch, which we then descend into the valley of the Ussora,which we left before arriving at Tesanj, and, crossing the river,arrive at the village ofKOMUSINA (25 miles from Doboj) .The khan is a miserable hole; but the Franciscan prieststationed here will gladly afford all accommodation in his power.The scene is most idyllic: numerous rivulets traverse the greenmeadows, and scattered about on the slopes of the well- woodedhills lie the dwellings of the peasants and farmers-nearly all Catholic.There are two roads to Gutschiagora from here: one, thebetter road, is via Patine; the other, more romantic one, straightacross the Vutschiagora. *We cross the Ussora, and at once commence the ascent, whichwill take at least 4 hours, through the most magnificent forests ,of such density that scarcely ever does a solitary sunbeam findits way through the luxuriant foliage. Every now and then wecome to one of these leviathan beeches or oaks fallen across thepath, the midst of it sawn out for a passage, and the rest rottingon the ground. The waste is perfectly heartrending; yet nothing can be done until roads are made to facilitate the removalof the timber to the river. About six hours' ride from Komusina, we reach the summit of the ridge, where we have a splendidalpine view, with here and there a rocky summit rearing itslofty head above the ocean of forest- covered mountains. Thereare but few villages around; that of Bielovitscha, on the R. , isthe highest.The forest becomes ever denser; the ground, consisting of therichest humus, perfectly elastic underfoot, is furrowed up bythe herds of swine driven here to feed, as well as by the wild

• Planina and Gora both = Mountain.

302 GUIDE TO TURKEY.boars which abound in these forests, as well as numerous bears,wolves, and deer. Plenty of sport for Nimrod! As soon as weissue from the forest, and approach the valley of the Bila, weperceive the towering peaks of the Vlasitsch Planina on the R.In 1 hour we reach the Bila, after a most troublesome descent,and, crossing it, arrive in about half an hour at the Monastery ofGUTSCHIAGORA (10 hours' ride from Komusina) .Gutschiagora Monastery is the newest of the four Franciscanmonasteries in Bosnia; it is a fine large building, and thetraveller will meet with every accommodation.From here a path leads over the mountains to TRAWNIK(11 miles), or, if he choose, the tourist can proceed straight toVitesh (12 miles) , on the Laschva ( see Route XXIX., p. 307).ROUTE XXVIII.-SERAJEWO TO FOJNITZA. 303ROUTE XXVIII.Serajewo to Fojnitza.LEAVING Serajewo, we cross the Miljatzka, and traverse theplain, various private houses of the Bosnian magnates and avilla of the Pasha on the R., till we cross a tributary (1 hour)of the Bosna, and then ( 2 hours) the Bosna itself at Illidsche.The bridge is a fine ancient structure, a khan on the L. , and thevillage on the other side, also on the L. Here the road turnsN.E.; the mountains draw closer to the L.; on the R. we havethe plain, and in about another hour we arrive at Blazui, atthe foot ofthe Igman. Opposite the Khan a road branches offto Konjitza and Mostar. The valley now contracts; every nowand then we cross a rivulet, and in less than an hour arriveat Rakovitza (3½ hours) . Here we have a slight ascent overthe saddle of the Kobila- Glava to Kisseljak (5½ hours) , on theLepenitza. A little way up the river, about 15 yards from thebank, there is a mineral spring, much frequented in summer,and containing, according to Ami Boué, sulphate of soda andcarbonates of iron and lime. It is a very strong and abundantspring, and protected by a frame of masonry 6 feet in diameter;temperature 8 Réaumur. The waters are especially efficaciousin liver-complaints; the taste is very agreeable.At Kisseljak we follow the Fojnitza, which here falls intothe Lepenitza, through a beautiful beech- clothed valley, to themonastery and town ofFOJNITZA (92 hours) , on the junction ofthe Zelesnitza and theDragotza, which together form the Fojnitza. The valley isrich in iron ores, which are reduced by the numerous furnaceswe saw in passing up it. The population of the town and valley,mostly Christians (Catholic) , is about 3,500, and is chieflyoccupied in the iron- works. The Moslems have two mosques.304 GUIDE TO TURKEY.The appearance of the inhabitants is very prepossessing; theyare a fine, well- built, handsome race .The monastery lies on an elevated position on a rock of slateintermixed with iron, and, glittering in the sun between thegreen foliage, presents a very beautiful appearance.It wasfounded about a century before the Ottoman conquest, andpossesses a charter (At- nahme) from Mohammed II. , and a verycurious heraldic chronicle with the different arms and crests ofthe old Bosnian aristocracy. The church lies in a hollow; ithas a bell , but is not used. The congregation is called to prayerby striking a wooden hammer upon a piece of sheet iron, theusual custom in Bosnia.ROUTE XXIX.-FOJNITZA TO TRAWNIK. 305ROUTE XXIX .Fojnitza to Trawnik and Sutiska.FROM Fojnitza we make an excursion to Sutiska, another of theCatholic monasteries of Bosnia. The road first leads up theslope and to the ridge of the Zahorina, whence we have a splendidview of the valley of the Dragotza, the Monastery, and MountZec (6,000 ft .) . We then mount and descend numberlessravines and thickly wooded gorges, till we regain the high road,about 13 miles from Kisseljak, at the village of Bussovatsch.Here the tourist will perceive some of the patriarchal mills,consisting of a horizontal wheel immediately connected withthe upper stone. The wheel is not more than about 3-3 ft. indiameter. As may be supposed, the flour (maize) is not veryfine. The owners (generally speaking most families have one)throw the grain in, lock up the mill, set the wheel going, anddon't return until they think the grain is all ground. Twomiles to the S.E. of Bussovatsch, there is a mineral spring on theroad to Kisseljak, at Khan Brettalovitsch, of similar qualitiesto the one already described in the preceding route. We nowfollow the high road, past numerous khans, and some few smallvillages, till we arrive at the banks of the Laschwa, which wefollow to Trawnik, after having crossed it near its junction withthe Bila, and again shortly beforeTRAWNIK (eight hours from Fojnitza) . Population , 12,000.The town lies at the foot of the Vlasitch Planina, in the basinof the Laschwa, and at some little distance from the river.The citadel was built by King Tvartko II. It has sixteenmosques, is much cleaner than the usual run of Bosnian towns,and is the seat of a kaimakam, who, in 1866, was MustaphaBey. The barracks on the L. of the road leading to Jaitza arewell-built and extensive, two stories high, and forming a largequadrangle.X306 GUIDE TO TURKEY."When we entered, we were most politely received by thecommanding officer, an old Sebastopoler, and at once led intohis private room. Here we were supplied with the luxuries ofcamp-stools; coffee and pipes were brought, and an animatedconversation began, chiefly carried on by signs, as we were noadepts in Turkish. At last an Armenian, Mr. Petrovitsch, chiefcommissary of the forces at Trawnik, arrived, and in him wefound an excellent interpreter. He had been in Vienna andTrieste, and spoke German, French, and Italian perfectly. Wethen proceeded to inspect the barracks. The beds were allranged along the floor in perfect order, at a distance of 6 inchesto 8 inches from each other. Each man's kit, arms, &c. ,were hung on the wall, over the head of the bed. As soon aswe arrived, all the men stood up and saluted . Everything wasscrupulously clean; the rooms long and lofty. Afterwards wewent down to the kitchen, and tasted the day's fare . It wasbeans boiled in broth, and very good; each soldier receivedabout a quart and 2 lbs . of bread. Adjourning then to themajor's rooms, we enjoyed a very excellent repast; a delightfulpillau and roast chicken, with paprika (capsicum) . Sweetmeatsin abundance. Whilst enjoying the post-prandial pipes andcoffee, the band struck up for our delectation, and, to enhancethe value of the treat, no doubt, exclusively Turkish melodies.Shades of Apollo! such fearful, most horrible noises we neverheard, and, in spite of all endeavours, we could not conceal ouragony; whereon the colonel compassionately ordered it to desist.Then the horses were turned out to water. There were manynoble animals amongst them, and it was great fun to see thesoldiers endeavouring to catch those that had broken away. Onleaving, there was an animated discussion as to who shouldhave the privilege of being our host; a privilege ultimatelyceded to Mr. Petrovitsch, who took us to his residence, wherewe passed a most comfortable night. "The new Konak of the kaimakam is a fine structure on thebanks of the Laschwa, built by Achmed Pasha, at presentGovernor of Bihatsch, where we shall later make his aquaintance.We retrace the road by which we arrived at Trawnik, till weROUTE XXIX. -FOJNITZA TO TRAWNIK. 307arrive at Vitesh; shortly after which we turn to the left, and'follow the road along the slope of the valley of the Laschwa,and then ascend and ride along the length of the mountainridge that divides the Bila from the Laschwa, which we rejoin atZENITZA (13 miles from Trawnik) . Population, 1,400.Prettily situated on the Bosna. About 9 miles to the N. liesVranduk, also on the Bosna; a small village, but with a verygood khan, and the remains of a fort which was once besiegedfor a long time by the Ottomans, until the famine grew so greatthat a cake of bread was sold for a ducat. On the roadleading to Vranduk, near Zagodina, there is an old block ofstone, with several circles cut in it of about 4 inches in diameter.The people say it is a memento of the siege of Vranduk, andthat these circles represent the size of the loaves which weresold at the price we have mentioned. It is, most likely, a partof a tombstone. Between Gradiscie and Vranduk, close tothe Bosna, there is a turba containing the remains of theMoslem warriors that fell in a battle fought near here, againstPrince Eugene of Savoy, 1697.Leaving Zenitza, we cross the Bosna over a wooden bridge,and follow the R. bank for about two hours, when we strike offover the hills, past two turbas at the foot of the Ossientschenik,to the village of Kakanj, where we rejoin and cross the Bosnaby means of a ferry. Wethen follow the river for about halfan hour, and then up and down hill, sometimes approaching,sometimes leaving it, till we descend into the valley of theBukovitza, on which, at its junction with the Boravitza, issituated, perfectly hidden from view, the Monastery ofSUTISKA ( 8 hours from Vitesh, 9 hours from Trawnik, 9hours from Vranduk) .The monastery is still older than that of Fojnitza, and contains the tombs of several of the Bosnian kings. It has the privilege, dating from the time of Mohammed II . , of ringing a bellto summon its congregation. There was formerly a convent,St. Clara, close to it; and to the S.E. lie the ruins of Bobovatsch,formerly a residence of the Bosnian kings.x 2308 GUIDE TO TURKEY.tROUTE XXX.Serajewo to Mostar, via Trnova, Ullok , and Nevesinje.WE leave the town by the S. gate, and wind along the slopesofthe Trebovitsch, past the village of LUKAVITSCH (1 hour) .Here we find rich coal-beds of nearly 30 feet; the extent hasnot been determined, but it is doubtless very considerable. Then,crossing a spur of the mountains, we enter upon the valley of theZelesnitza (2 hours) . Following this valley, which is formed bythe slopes of the Zahorina on the L., and those of the Igman onthe R., for an hour, it becomes broader, but soon after contracts,and the road becomes more difficult. The Zelesnitza here formsa series of beautiful cascades of 6 feet to 10 feet high. Thencome Kievo and Bogatitzka, where we reach the valley of thesame named river, and, after an hour and a half's ride , the villageof Trnova. From here we have a steep ascent over the Rogov,which forms the communicating saddle between the Treskovitzaand Zahorina Planinas, whence we have a sharp descent overan almost trackless steep to the village ofDOBROPOLJE (8 hours) .Here we advise the traveller to take up his quarters for thenight. Resuming his journey, he will have to choose his ownpath over the ridge of Vratlo to the plateau of Zagoria—a wordsignifying " beyond the mountains " (3 hours) . The road hereis very good; the ground consists of clay and limestone, interspersed with porphory. We then pass the village of Zasitzi,riding up and down the outliers of the Vutzia Planina to Obla,lying upon the plateau of a mountain promontory, whence wehave a magnificent view of the valley of the Narenta and thegrand rugged peak of the Trescovitza Planina in the N. Theroad now descends in endless zigzags down the steeps ofthewell-wooded Nedavitz into the valley of the Narenta, alongROUTE XXX. -SERAJEWO TO MOSTAR. 309which river we ride for a quarter of an hour, when we ford itjust above the bridge, which is in too rotten a state to be crossed,and then arrive at Ullok (9 hours from Dobropolje) , situatedon a mountain- spur between the Narenta and Greiselitza,which conflux a little way below. Ullok is a miserable villageof about ten houses and a mosque, with a still more wretchedkhan, where, nevertheless, the traveller will have to put up forthe night, and perhaps be haunted by the ghost of the formerkhanji, who was found hung up, and with his throat cut fromear to ear, about two years ago.Leaving Ullak, we commence the ascent ofthe Morine Planina,andobtain afine view ofthe Narenta, andthe Tschervanje Planina,curving along the course of the river, with its rugged fantasticpeaks towering over its lesser companions. Along the road wepass several tombstones, covering the remains of the victims ofrobbers, or the wolves that infest these mountains, especiallythe Tschervanje, to such an extent that in winter-time the passageis never attempted except in caravans of 40 or 50 head. Aftera most troublesome descent, we arrive at Kifino- Selo, in theplateau of Neveseny, where the cultivation of the ground visiblyimproves. Thence, 1 hour brings us to the village ofNEVESENY, the seat of the Mudir of the district (6 hours fromUllok) . The khan here is bad: apply to the Mudir for lodging.Resuming our journey, we have a slight ascent over thewooded Bukovitza, and then, riding along the Bisina, we mountthe Podvelez, whence we have another fine view, and commencea serpentine descent toBlagai,With the extensive ruins of a castle, built by Duke Stephan,in a most romantic position . The town itself has about 1,200inhabitants, and was the scene of the execution of the Bosnianking, Tomasevitz, June 30, 1463, by order of Mahmud II. , inspite ofa promise made him, on his capture, that his life shouldbe spared.A little way up the valley, following the Buna, on whichBlagai is situated, we come to its source, where it issues in a310 GUIDE TO TURKEY.strong body of water from a cavern 6 feet high and 13 feetwide.Continuing our road along the foot of the Podvelez we arrivein two hours atMostar(six hours from Neveseny) , on both banks of the Narenta.Population, 18,000. The town of Mostar ( most, bridge; star, old)has a decided Italian appearance. The houses are all roofedwith thick slabs of limestone, and mostly built of the same material. The chief street is of an interminable length-onehour's walk from one end to the other. The upper or N. endis inhabited for a great part by the Mostarene sirens , who aregenerally most energetic in their expressions of welcome to thetraveller on his arrival. A gateway divides the street into twoparts, near the centre of it. The chief khan, nearer the upperend, is very large; but there is a hotel here, kept by an Italian,which is very fair, and proportionately expensive. The attachés, telegraph clerks, and other officials dine here, so thetourist will be able to procure plenty of information . There isgenerally a permanent camp outside the town, about half anhour distant-a Herzegowenian Aldershot or Chalons in miniature.Mostar is the capital of the Herzegowina, and was founded byRadovoj Gost Curopalato, the major-domo of Duke Stephan, in1440. Sir G. Wilkinson attributes a far greater age to thepresent town; but although it was doubtless a Roman fortifiedcamp, of which traces, as well as of a Roman via, still exist, yetit* Slavonic name of “ Old Bridge " would seem to indicate thatthe bridge was all that remained of any former town. Thisbridge, from which the town takes its name, unites both therocky banks of the Narenta, and is one of the most beautifulstructures in Turkey. There is only one other bridge to becompared to it-the bridge over the Narenta at Konjitza, offive arches . The Mostar bridge is of one single arch, with aspan of 95 ft . , and from the top of the parapet, when the wateris at its average height, 70 ft. high. The breadth is a little moreROUTE XXX.-SERAJEWO TO MOSTAR. 311than 15 ft . Both ends are protected by a tower and gatewayand are 10 ft . below the centre, thus increasing the difficulty ofcrossing it, in addition to its uneven paving. A covered aqueduct crosses it on the N. side, the continuation of one withthe peculiar pyramids we have already alluded to (page 234) ,conducting a supply of water into the higher parts of the town from the source of the Radoboglie, four miles distant. Thesurroundings of Mostar are very pleasant; the mountain slopesare covered with vines, which produce a fiery red wine. Olivesare also grown, besides tobacco and excellent melons. Mulberry trees also occur.The Greeks possess a large monastery here on the left bank;and the Latins are building a grand church in the valley ofthe Ra.doboglie, about aquarter ofanhour'sdistancefrom the town. Beforecrossing the bridge up the steps to the R., there is a very decentcafé, kept by an Italian, with a billiard- table, the only one thetraveller will find out of Constantinople, except Mr. Holmes's,at Serajewo. There is also a cascade a little way down theriver, 40 ft . high.312 GUIDE TO TURKEY.3ROUTE XXXI .Mostar to Fojnitza.WE cross the bridge, and keep along the R. bank of the Narentato Voina (1 mile) , where we ascend a mountain promontory;after which we rejoin the Narenta, considerably hemmed in bythe Raska Planina on the R. bank, and the massy Glogovan onthe L. bank, rising to a height of 5,000 ft . above the river-bed.The road is here execrably bad, and the tourist will have toproceed the best part of the way on foot, for not even a Bosnianhorse can keep his footing. In many places we see how theslope has been rent by landslips, presenting an appearance atthe foot something like the hills of débris in the valley of theRhone. As we approach the valley and the mouth of theDrenitza, the path becomes somewhat better. The inhabitantsof Drenitza were held free from taxes till the year 1832, inconsequence of their once having presented a falcon to one ofthe Sultans. The road now becomes worse than ever, risingand falling 100 ft. , until we arrive at the Klanatz, a word signifying any overhanging place or very difficult passage, something like the Turkish Demir Kapu, or " Iron Gates." TheKlanatz here is formed bythe end of the Plasa Planina andthat of the Prenj, originally forming one chain, which has beenbroken through by the Narenta. The path first winds alongthe foot, literally overhung by beetling rocks, and then gradually ascends to a height of 100 ft . to 150 ft . , where it is cutout in the solid stone of the perpendicular precipice . The viewfrom this point is stupendously grand; opposite rise the perpendicular precipices, in regular strata of 10 ft . to 12 ft. , to aheight of 2,500 ft . to 3,000 ft . above the river, water oozing outand continually dripping into the depth below, where theNarenta foams along its rocky bed. This is the finest view forROUTE XXXI. -MOSTAR TO FOJNITZA. 313sublime grandeur in the whole of Bosnia and the Herzegowina.No words, no painting, can depict the mightiness of the scene,where we stand on this narrow ledge, the river straight downbelow us, and the grand wall of rock beyond. And the morewe gaze upon the scene, the more we must wonder at theuntiring working of the stream that has forced its way throughthis barrier, no less than at the cycle of centuries it must have taken to effect a passage.As soon as we have passed the promontory and the tablet inthe rock denoting the frontier of Bosnia and the Herzegowina,the scene presents a contrast no less striking than that offeredby the passage through the Urner Loch, from the valley of theReuss to the Urseren-Thal. Instead of the narrow river- passand the towering walls of rock, we now look upon a broad,well-wooded, and partially cultivated valley. But, before enteringit, we pass, half an hour from the Klanatz, over two brooksfirst the Poporatz, a little below its issue from the rocks, andthen the Perutatz, over a bridge just above its copious entranceinto the Narenta, which both join in cascades of 30 feet to40 feet in height. The water is remarkably clear and cold.Now entering upon the valley, we soon arrive atJablanitza (ten hours from Mostar) , where we take up ourquarters for the night. The people of this village are very hospitable, and the women remarkably handsome. They are mostlyMoslems.Leaving Jablanitza, we have a steep ascent and descent overthe Kunar to the Rama, which we cross over a stone bridge,1½ mile from its entrance into the Narenta, which here makesa bend to the E. (or, rather, flowing E., bends to the S.); wefollow the river for some time, till we arrive at the mouth ofthe Little Narenta, which we ford, and follow its left bank toPodhum (6 hours) , where the traveller will find accommodationat the Franciscan priest's.Resuming our journey from Podhum, we have a difficultascent before us of the Bitowanjali Planina, or rather a branchof the chief range. * Fine view. After riding for one houralong the ridge, we have another ascent (half an hour) , till we314 GUIDE TO TURKEY.arrive at the plateau-like ridge, the Bitowanjali itself, consistingof tertiary sandstone. The pyramidal peak in the E., rising497 feet above the ridge, is the Lissatz. *Fine view, extendingeven as far as Serajewo, 36 miles distant. Three hours aftercommencing the descent, we arrive at the townlet ofKRESHEWO (eight hours from Podhum) . Population, 1,200,Catholic.same name.Prettily situated, in a well-wooded valley, on a brook of theThere is a Franciscan monastery here, possessinga considerable estate. The building is old, but presents nothingof any interest, except some old charters.mines exist in the valley, but are not worked.Copper and ironFrom here the traveller can proceed either direct to Blazui(4 hours) ( see Route XXVIII, page 303) or else, after a rideof five hours, to FOJNITZA (see Route XXVIII, page 303) .ROUTE XXXII.- SERAJEWO TO MOSTAR. 315ROUTE XXXII.Serajewo to Mostar, via Konjitza.THREE days' good riding are requisite for this tour. At Blazui(see Route XXVIII) we turn to the S., following the roadopposite the Khan, and ride along a broad valley, a streamsometimes on the left, sometimes on the right, past the villageof Tupova, and then gradually ascending the towering massesof the Bitowanjali in front, to the Khan of Tartschin (6½ hours) ,where we advise the traveller to camp for the night. The khanis very fair, and the neighbouring stream furnishes excellenttrout. The village lies scattered in the nooks and recesses ofthe valley.Resuming our journey, we commence the ascent of theBitowanjali. The road leads up and down, along slopes andprecipitous valleys, until we reach the ridge and the Khan of Bradina. *Fine view.Before arriving at the Khan, and after leaving it, we passseveral of the old Bosnian tombstones, rude, sarcophagusshaped structures, generally hewn out of one block of stone,and placed upright on a slab of stone half a foot to a foot in thickness. Some of them are adorned with still ruder sculptures .They are met with in all parts of Bosnia.Leaving the Khan, the road in itself becomes better, butwinds down a horribly awkward descent, till we at last arrive atNERETWA and KONJITZA, both on the Narenta , and formingas it were one town. Neretwa is in Bosnia; Konjitza in theHerzegowina ( 5 hours from Tartschin) . Population, 2,000.There is already a marked difference in the architecture ofthe houses, proclaiming our approach towards Dalmatia. Theyare all of stone, with thick slabs of the same material for tiles.316 GUIDE TO TURKEY.The situation of the two places is very lovely. They are connected by a most beautiful bridge of five arches, rivalling inharmonious symmetry the celebrated bridge at Mostar. Thereis a tablet erected in the centre of the parapet, commemorating itsfoundation. "Passing this beautiful bridge, we saw a tablet withaTurkish inscription , which, we were told, recounted the historyof its foundation. A native of Konjitza, travelling from Constantinople to Salonica, broke his leg in crossing a dilapidatedbridge, by slipping into a crevice in the middle. Whilst hewas laid up with it, he remembered how the bridge in his nativetown was in just as ruinous a state as the one on which he metwith his accident, and vowed that, if he recovered, he wouldrebuild it for the benefit of others. He did recover, and thepresent bridge was erected 300 years ago. " History, however,asserts that it was built by King Hwalimir. Who shall decidethe question? The romantic position deserves a romanticstory: we, for our part, place implicit belief in the tradition.There is a mosque on the Bosnian end, and further on, up theriver on our L., after crossing the river, a second one juttingout into the water, forming, with the bridge and the mountainsin the background, a picture worthy of any artist. The Narentaabounds with fish-trout, salmon- trout, and various other species.They are best caught with the spoon bait. Mr. Holmes, ourconsul in Serajewo, always found this bait answer best. Weshould advise the traveller to buy some fish from the anglers heis sure to meet with, during the time we follow its L. bank,journeying towards its source for about 1 mile, when westrike off to the R., up a steep wooded ascent of more than anhour, and then over ravine, gorge, and torrent, until we reachBorke (8 hours from Tartschin) , a small scattered hamletwith two khans. The first on the R. is the best; but, if itbe occupied, there is another one further on to the L.Nothing can be had here; not even bread, except perhaps the coarse maize bread of the Bosnians. We shall neverforget our night in the khan at Borke. To all our inquiries forbread, milk, or eggs, we received the invariable ' Niema ' fora response ( we have none ' ) . In desperation we went down66ROUTE XXXII.-SERAJEWO TO MOSTAR. 317into the stables, when lo! and behold! there were two finecows standing there. Thornley at once shouted ' Eureka!'and we both set to work, he at one, and I at the other, and soonmanaged to extract over a quart of fine fresh milk, to the evidentwonderment of the astonished kine, and the unmitigated disgustof our Moslem Hanji, cursing us for a couple of uncleanGiaours, and clearly in a state of great perplexity as to themeans to be adopted in order to purify his cows.Halfan hour after leaving the Khan, we come to the end of theplateau, terminating in a projecting tongue of rock, fallingdown some 1,000 feet intothe valley below, presenting a shapesomewhat like a half- inverted . The descent along the bottomstroke of the M is simply execrable, and will have to be accomplished chiefly on foot. When we once arrive at the bottom,the scene is wonderfully wild and lonely. On the right, at thefoot of the rocky promontory, lies the lake called Jesero (whichmeans " lake "); on the left, the valley is half blocked up bysmaller hills pushed forwards towards the opposite sides , assharply defined as the wings in a theatre; whilst before and behind rise the Lipeta and Treskovitza Planinas to a height of4,000 feet. On the banks of the stream which flows from theJesero, the Vlach- Rieka, stands a small khan, immediately behind which the ascent of the Lipeta commences in numerouszigzags. When we arrive on the saddle, a rocky dell - like hollow, with a few groups of trees and blocks of stone scatteredabout in confusion, we come to a number of Bosnian tombstones, one of them representing an incident similar to that ofJoab and Amasa: one man is seen plunging his sword into theside of another, with his arms extended and a bow in his lefthand. Some of the other stones are adorned with rude scrollsand circles . Ten minutes further on, we come to a stoneBekleme, onthe extreme ridge, where the descent commences bya road as bad as any we have yet met with. Two hours of thisdescent, and along a rocky valley, bring us to the Zimlje Khan,and then another ascent and descent through a short defile intothe broad valley of the Narenta, where we join an excellent macadamised road which in another 24 hours brings us to MOSTAR.318 GUIDE TO TURKEY.66ROUTE XXXIII,Sjenitza to Visegrad.SJENITZA. See Route XXV.The road from Sjenitza to Lopitze is good, and leads over thebushy heights of the Kremenik, after which we cross the LopitzeRieka, pass the village of Lopitze (5 miles) , and then come tothe village of Usak, with a small brook of the same name,which, after an ignoble course, comes to an ignoble end in aponor, " or well, to the S. of the village. From Sjenitza topast Usak we have the river Uvatz, about 1 or 1½ mile distant,on our right, but which, owing to its bed lying in a rockychannel of 40 or 50 feet deep, and the tops of its banks beingon the same level as the surrounding ground, is passed withoutobservation.At Usak the road turns to the W. for about 10 miles, past thevillage of Seliszie and Jesmekluk- Khan, over the N.E. slopes ofthe Zlatar, till we arrive atNOVA-VAROS (7 hours from Sjenitza): population, 1,300.Seat of a Mudir. The town is situated in a ravine on the banksof the Tikva, and is chiefly inhabited by Servians. In 1440,Despot George of Rascia leased the gold and silver mines nearNovo-Varas to the Signoria of Ragusa. At present they arenot worked. The Greeks are building a church here, which islike the Cathedral of Cologne in one respect-i.e. , the apparenthopelessness of its ever being finished.Leaving Nova-Varos, we ascend and cross the KamenitzaPlanina, arriving, by a steep , difficult descent, at the broadvalley of the Kratovo, which we cross and follow till, ascendingthe E. slopes of the valley of the Lim, we arrive at the Monastery and Baths ofBANYA (6 hours from Nova-Varos) .ROUTE XXXIII.- SJENITZA TO VISEGRAD. 319This place was formerly named Toplica, and contains littleelse besides the monastery and the baths, which are much frequented by sufferers from the gout. The monastery (Greek)was founded by Urosh III. , whose remains, as well as those ofhis son, repose in the church, which formerly contained themiracle-working image of the Virgin, at present in the church atTschainitscha (see page 295) . It was taken away, or ratherrescued, in 1595, ander the following circ*mstances, which werelate in the words of a diary ofthe times:-"" It was in these days of trouble and great fear that we heardof the appreach of the red-handed Turks. Onthe 14th of May,1595, Bielo George, so called from the exceeding whiteness ofhis hair, came rushing into the house where I lay in sickness,and cried, The Turks are here! they fire the church! Theblessed Panagia will be burnt!' ' What!' I exclaimed, ' andthou art here to tell me so! Nay, but the curse of the Virginbe on thee, if thou hast suffered the image she hath inspired withherdivine presence to be destroyed by the Turkish flames.' ' Itshall not be, ' cried Bielo George. I will save the Panagia.'Therewith he disappeared, and, as I was told by those whowitnessed the miracle, rushed to where the church was envelopedin cursed Turkish flames. ' Kill the giaour!' cried the Turkishcannibals . But none stirred; a mysterious presence restrainedthem. Still, the exceeding fury of the flames struck fear intothe heart of the brave George, and he stood still doubtingly,when, O wonder! a passing sweet voice was heard proceedingfrom the raging fires, exclaiming, Why dost thou hesitate,Bielo George? Verily I say unto thee, the red flames shall notharm thee, and the black smoke shall not stifle thee!' At thesound of this voice the craven Turks trembled with fear; but thebrave George was filled with courage. He darted through theflames, which opened before him and closed after him like a curtain. In few moments he reappeared, the flames acting asbefore, and passed through the ranks of the terror- strickenTurks, who were dazzled even unto blindness by the great brightness surrounding him. Regretting that it was not allowed himto smite the infidels all, Bielo George sped over the mountains,6320 GUIDE TO TURKEY.and brought the wondrous image to a place of great safety,which it would not be prudent to divulge even in writing for one's self. "The monastery, however, in spite of the loss of its image, isstill much frequented by pilgrims, especially in September.On leaving Banya, the road gradually descends to Priboj intothe valley of the Lim, where, a little past the Khan Na- Uvtzu,we observe some rocks of serpentine on the R. bank of theriver. We here cross the Uvatz at its junction with the Lim,over a wooden bridge, and, turning to the N. and N.E. , followthe course of the Sterbatz, a tributary of the Uvatz, to its source,and then crossing the connecting saddle of the Bielobrdo andGola Planinas, descend into the valley of the Rzava, through aseries of lovely idyllic landscapes to Jagodina, before reachingwhich we pass the ruins of the citadel of Dobrunj, perched upon the rocks (500 ft. ) above the river, which here forces its waythrough a ravine. About the middle of the fifteenth century,Queen Erina, wife of Despot George Brankovitz, held thiscitadel for two months against the Ottoman troops , when theircommander pretended an overwhelming love for the fair defender. Erina had for some time been partial to him, andreceived his overtures with readiness, and determined to admithim into her castle. The wily Osman vowed he would surrender his army and espouse Erina; but, with an eye to hisworldly prosperity, stipulated that she should first admit hisriches , closely packed up in boxes, which required no less than200 horses to carry them. Hereto Erina naturally had noobjection, and in the dead of night the 200 horses were admitted,each with two boxes, and each box containing a full- grownOsman. The Christian garrison was put to the sword, and thefair Erina led off into an ignominous captivity—a wholesomeexample for faithless wives.The hamlet of Dobrunj contains about thirty families, and achurch built by Stephan Nemanja in 1170. The road from herestill continues along the Rzava, which makes a sharp bend(at right angles) to the W., until we reach VISEGRAD (seepage 296) .ROUTE XXXIV. -TRIESTE TO SERAJEWO. 321ROUTE XXXIV .Trieste to Serajewo, via Fiume.WE can either take the boat from Trieste, via Pola, to Fiume,or the diligence across the peninsula of Istria. We now take the latter route.On leaving Trieste, the road at once winds up the mountainslope. On the L. we perceive a mass of linen fluttering on thelines; the whole valley below seems to be populated by washerwomen engaged in providing the town with clean drapery. Aswe gradually ascend, we pass several guard- houses , with customhouse officers perpetually inquiring whether you have anyarticles liable to duty. As we proceed, the country becomesbleaker and barrener, the people more uncouth, and the Croatiantype more strongly developed; German gives way to theSlavonic dialects, and the houses, built of solid stone, withnarrow slits , like embrasures, seem like small forts. Eachman's house, in verity, appears like his castle. We pass severalunimportant villages, and then traverse the barren karst, limestone rocks, and curious funnel- shaped hollows on all sides, likeextinct craters sunk in the ground. They are generally cultivated, or contain water at the bottom. Thus we arrive atCastelnovo, half-way between Trieste and Fiume. There is avery good inn on the R. of the branch road leading to the townlet, which is situated at a quarter of an hour's distance from thehigh road. 'We had a delicious supper of ham, eggs, andcoffee, clean beds, and breakfast, for two gulden-not a veryextravagant price for two hungry travellers like ourselves. "66After leaving Castelnovo, the chaussée ascends, and windsabout among a succession of rocky defiles of beautiful greylimestone, thrown about in the most picturesque confusion.Lizards abound, darting in and out of the crevices like a gleamY322 GUIDE TO TURKEY.of sunshine. Gradually the vegetation improves, and, afterpassing the post- house and inn of Lippa, we descend rapidly,with a lovely view of the Canal del Quarnero, of which Dantesings (Inferno, ix. 38):"Sicome a Pola, presso del QuarneroCh' Italia chiude ed i suoi termini bagna."Olive-trees begin to grow plentiful, and vines appear, aboundingas we descend past the Government House into the town ofFiume.On the river Fiumara. Fiume (German, St. Veit am Flaume;Illyrian, Reka) is, although belonging politically to Istria, theonly sea-port of Hungary, and contains over 15,000 inhabitants .HOTELS: *Rè d'Ungheria, on the harbour; Aquila Nera,some way up the main street towards the market on the R. hand;cheap, but not very excellent. German landlord.“ On our arrival at Fiume, we were much amused by theexcited manner of the politicians—and every man was one—discussing the question as to the fate of Fiume, whether itshould remain Austrian or be incorporated with Hungary.There was no doubt as to the opinion of the majority . Eljan!Eljan!'-the Hungarian ‘ hurrah, ' -resounded incessantly whenever a Saxon-minded wight ventured to pronounce in favour ofthe Germans. In the coffee- room of the Rè d'Ungheria, theexcitement was no less; so, after refreshing ourselves, we salliedforth to see what was to be seen of Fiume. The view from theport was very pretty; the sea appearing like a vast lake, fromthe mountains of the islands of Cherso and Veglio shutting itin on almost all sides. We saw some queer monsters of thedeep in the fish-market, and bought some very fine red mullet.We then retraced our steps, and went to the market- place inthe E. part of the town, which is also the largest, and containsthe best shops. Wethen crossed the river, which bursts out ofa ravine on the L., and commenced the ascent, by a flight of400 steps, to the celebrated shrine containing a copy of theMadonna at Loreto, which was carved by St. Luke (see page 102) .ROUTE XXXIV. -TRIESTE TO SERAJEWO. 323Here we saw the usual ecclesiastical gimcracks, and soonhastened to turn to the more edifying prospect from the Castleof Tersato; a view ten thousand times more soul- elevating thanthe petty crafts of priestdom. This shrine is built on the siteformerly occupied as a resting-place by the Casa Santa, duringits miraculous flight from Nazareth. But, to the honour ofFiume be it said, the Casa was not appreciated, and itscelestial bearers carried it off to a more congenial soil, toLoreto."The Castle of Tersato formerly belonged to the Counts ofFrangipani, and, subsequently, to Field- Marshal Nugent, whochose the donjon for his tomb. There is a collection of statuesand other antiquities, with a column erected by the French, onthe battle-field of Marengo, in a small temple close by. Thecolumn bears the following inscription on a bronze tablet:-"Qui a Marengo, il giorno, il 25 Pratile, anno 8 Bonaparte,primo Console della Republica Francese, condusse l'armataalla vittoria."Leaving Fiume, we cross the Fiumara, an excursion up thevalley of which would well reward the trouble, and ascend thehill, taking the road to the L.-not to the R.—along the coast,and passing one or two hamlets prettily situated among olivegroves and vineyards, arrive atBuccari (2 hours) , a small town on a bay of the samename, inhabited chiefly by fishermen, boat- builders, and retiredcaptains and sailors . There is a romantic old citadel in thetown; the towers are used as store-rooms, and the church isvery fair. Else there is nothing in the place worthy of a visit.The inns are extremely bad.From Buccari, the road follows the coast of the bay past amill and guard- house, to Porto Rè, which Napoleon destined tobecome the chief port and arsenal of the Kingdom of Illyria.It is now used as an Austrian cruising station . We, however,do not enter Porto Rè, but branch off, at a group of small housesand an inn, to the L., following the road leading through thevalley, past several small hamlets and a red sand- stone castle inruins (4 hours from Buccari) mile to the R. Two hours furtherY 2324 GUIDE TO TURKEY.on, where the valley contracts and opens through a narrowdefile to the S., we see the ruins of another castle, of which thetower and some of the walls are still standing. There are two ironrings fixed in the N.E. wall, to which it is said the vessels usedto be moored when the sea filled the valley in former timeswhich must have been considerably pre- Adamite. At these ruinswe turn along the road to the R., through some very wild,barren defiles; here and there, massive walls are erected to protect passengers from the violence of the Bora (see page 134),which rushes down these ravines with extraordinary force. Continuing our way, we skirt the head of a valley, and follow it ata height of about 400 feet from the river below, turning severalmills on its course, till we regain the sea-shore, nearBRIBIR (8 hours from Buccari) , a small fishing-town of about1,200 inhabitants. Bad inn.From here the road continues along the sea- shore, sometimesclose to it, sometimes at a distance from it (a curious cave on theL., hour from Novi) , till we arrive atNovi (2 hours from Bribir) , a small town, with nothing ofany interest; it is built terrace- like, on the mountain slopesstretching down to the shore, along which we continue our ride.The sea comes right up to the rocky slopes; immense blocks ofstone, worn round and slippery by the action of the waves, coverthe space between the road and the water, which, close to thebase, is perfectly sweet, from the numerous subaqueous springs.About 1 mile from Novi the road divides: we take the one onour L., and ascend the most barren, desolate country it is possible to imagine in these climes. Nothing but bluish- grey rock,and wild sage growing between in vast quantities, meet the eyefor miles . But, on looking back, a beautiful prospect across theGulf of Quarnero, with the purple mountains of Veglia andCherso, meets the eye, which amply compensates for the drearyview before us. After 4 hours' tedious ascent, we at last reachan oasis in the wilderness of stone, Merzlidol, where the countrybegins to improve, and we continue our journey through a wellwooded valley, and then through dense forests, past wooden Croatvillages, the roads concentrated essence of filth, till we arrive atROUTE XXXIV. -TRIESTE TO SERAJEWO. 325BRÜNDL (8 hours from Novi) , a small village, where thetraveller must perforce put up for the night, unless he wish tocontinue his way for two good hours to Xutaloqua, where there isa passable inn. From Xutaloqua we follow the chaussée througha well-cultivated country, but swampy in parts, to one of thechief stations of the Austrian Militair Grenze,OTTOCHATZ ( 7 hours from Xutaloqua) .The wooden houses and temporary appearance of the militarybuildings here, the swampy valley, and the rough wooden bridgethrown across the river, with the dark pine-forests in the background, transport the traveller to the backwoods of America,and he seems to be looking on a newly- formed colony. Such,to a certain extent, it is. For as the various regiments of theMilitair Grenze change their head- quarters, the concourse ofofficers and men transforms the appearance of the place entirely.The Militair Grenze, or Military Frontier, consists of a beltof territory reaching from the lowest point ofAustrian territoryon the Adriatic to the most eastern point on the Danube along theTurkish frontier, and is guarded by an active force ofabout 6,000men. It was originally established to protect the “ debatableground" between Austria and Turkey, and as a preventiveagainst the import of the plague. At present, however, smuggling is the only thing to be guarded against, and the establishment is only kept up for this purpose, and the convenience ofhaving some 50,000 excellent, well-disciplined troops at disposalwithin a few hours' notice. In no more than 24 hours, the ordercan be given to concentrate at any spot. Every man withinthe Grenze is forced to serve, from 25 to 60 years of age; thatis to say, he is not engaged in active service the whole time, butis liable to it, and in the interim is employed in the variousadministrative branches of the system. The chaussées alongthe Grenze are excellent. You can drive along an Austrian roadwithout interruption, from the top of the Splügen, in Switzerland, to Budua, on the Adriatic , or Orsova, on the Danube.Each peasant being, therefore, simultaneously a soldier, ten toone you will be bothered for your " passaporta" by every fellowyou meet with. And decidedly you will have to show your326 GUIDE TO TURKEY.passport at all the chief stations, of which Oltochatz will beone."At every station we were hunted from post to pillar, andinvariably lost two or three hours in consequence of our nothaving procured an Austrian visa to our passports . Let this bea warning to all who intend following our footsteps. "On leaving Ottochatz, we follow the chaussée past the Government offices on the L., and soon after having cleared the town(20 minutes) take the road on the L., through a long extent ofplain, monotonous and uninteresting, and past several smallhamlets and military stations, till the valley gradually begins tocontract, and the road winding along the mountain slopes on theR. , commences the ascent of the Mala, or Little Kapella. Soonthescenery becomes romantic as we enter the forests by an excellent chaussée; and when we have attained the height of one ofthe outworks of the Kapella, a perfectly elfin scene opens uponus down below to the R. Some 500 ft . below lies a pool of palegreen water, of about 4 ft. deep, perfectly transparent, thewhite marl bottom plainly showing through, and surrounded bytowering pines, and here and there a graceful birch, with itswhite stem, gleaming between the dark green needles of thepines . A brook flows out of this pool, which we follow afterdescending to its level, past a series of mills . After an hour ofthis scenery, we come to a hamlet, where we cross the brook,and the valley expands into a landscape of idyllic beauty,stretching away to the left, where it is taken up by sevenlakes, the Plitnitzer Seen, which are well worth a visit.is a very fine inn near the largest of the lakes. We, however,continue our way to the R., and commence the ascent of theMala Kapella in earnest. The road is good, and winds inzigzag through the most magnificent forests, which are shamefully neglected. At every step we pass enormous stems, whichhave been overthrown by the wind and storms, and are left torot as they lie. The ascent takes about one and a half hour,and in two hours from the commencement we arrive at Priboj,a miserable village situated in an expanse of fathomless mud.The inhabitants occupy themselves in making the rude pocketThereROUTE XXXIV. - TRIESTE TO SERAJEWO. 327knives every Croat wears hanging to his girdle, from the ironfound in the vicinity. Continuing our way, we ride along theplateau, and then descend, by the road to the R., to the villageof Balievatz, into the plain of the Unna. We skirt the base ofthe Kapella on our R., the wide expanse of plain on the L.,through several Croat hamlets, toZAVALJE (8 hours from Ottochatz) , a small frontier villageand fort. Here the traveller will have to get his passport viséd,before leaving Austrian territory, by the commanding officer atthe station. The inn is good here, and kept by an AustrianGerman.When we leave Zavalje, we pass through the fort, and,directly after leaving the eastern gate, enter upon Turkish soil,as is most markedly evident by the bottomless state of theroad, if road indeed it can be called . After a descent of aquarter of an hour, and a ride of another quarter, across theplain, we pass over the moat and through the gateway of thewalls surroundingBIHATSCH (population, 5,000) . Two rusty old cannon protectthe gateway, and two sentinels stand guard over them, withtheir garments as dilapidated as the walls. When we have onceentered, we pass a wide space, and the barracks on the R., to thesecond wall and gate leading to the wooden bridge across theUnna. It is perfectly marvellous how this rickety structure stillstands, and resists the rapid Unna; it must exist on the principleof the reed that bends and never breaks. Both sides are occupied by booths, where the solemn Osmans smoke the pipe ofcontemplation, and calmly wait till Allah sends them a customerfor their wares to the extent of a few piastres, when they liedown and sleep the sleep of peace, or adjourn for a " kef ” tothe neighbouring cafés. Further down the river a row of millsstretches across the stream, each wheel (horizontal) in direct communication with the upper millstone. Having succeeded incrossing the bridge without the loss of an arm or leg, we turndown the first turning to the Khan, a newbuilding, and tolerablyclean. The situation of the town, with its dilapidated forts andwalls, its mosques and minarets, the foaming Unna running328 GUIDE TO TURKEY.through it, is very romantic and picturesque, and will afford arich harvest for the artist.The first thing the traveller should do is to pay a visit toAchmed Pasha (if he still be in Bihatsch) . First, send andinquire what time will be most convenient to wait upon him—aprocedure it is best always to adopt. Should Achmed Pashastill be in Bihatsch, the traveller will find him a well- educated,intelligent gentleman, most obliging in his offers of assistance.It will be advisable to take a zabtie with one, not from anydanger to be apprehended upon the way, but because the roadsare excessively difficult to find for a great part of the journey.On leaving Bihatsch, we ride through the lower town, pastthe castles and villages of Golubuje and Sokolatz ( hour and1 hour) , and gradually draw nearer to the Unna, until wearrive at Ripatsch (2 hours) , where we leave the river windingthrough the narrow valley to the W., and commence a shortbut steep ascent to the well-wooded plateau between theGermetz Planina on the L. and the Ljupina Planina on the R.For a march of nearly 4 hours, we pass no habitation till weleave the church of Verlovatzani, in the distance, on the L., andthe village of Billai on the R. Here the country becomessterile and bare; the Germetz Planina still on our L., and theBillai Planina and Tscherveljevitza Planina on the R., bothcontinuations of the Ijupina. In 2 hours from Billai, wearrive atPETROVATZ ( 8 hours from Bihatsch) . Population, 2,000.A small town, with the ruins of a former fort, now garrisonedby a colony of crows and jackdaws. The khan at the com- mencement of the town on the L. is bad, but still the best.Nothing at all to see.On resuming our journey, we have a dreary ascent over thePrissika Planina; the plateau-like valley is , however, wellcultivated, and chiefly by families of German descent. Thehouses appear neater and cleaner than any we have yet metwith. At the end of the valley, before commencing another shortascent, we come to Bravsko- Khan (4 hours) , prettily situated inthe high valley. Hence we have a ride through well- woodedROUTE XXXIV. -TRIESTE TO SERAJEWO. 329country, over several minor ranges of hills, and through a longdefile, past four Beklemes, toKLUDSCH (8 hours from Petrovatz) . Population , 2,500 .The town is most beautifully situated on the Sanna, at thefoot of a precipitous range of hills descending perpendicularlyinto the valley, and crowned by the remains of an old castle,dating from the time of the Bosnian Kings. The river Prissika,which here joins the Sanna, forces its way through a romanticgorge, the rocks on the R. curving over the water in a verycurious manner, at a height of about 300 feet. The houses areexcessively clean and neat; scattered about amongst orchardsand gardens, they look more like the dwellings in S. Germanythan in Turkey. On the hill past the ruins, somewhat to theN., there are some ancient tombstones. Beyond the beauty ofits situation, Kludsch offers nothing else of interest to thetraveller, who,Resuming his journey, follows the banks of the Sanna forabout 5 minutes, and then crosses over to the R. bank, stillfollowing it for about 1 hour, when he ascends the mountainsto the L. After a long ride over the plateaus and ridges ofhills, averaging 2,000 to 3,000 feet in height, and through thewell-wooded valleys and ravines of the Dimitor Planina, wearrive atWatzare Vacouf (population, 2,000) , a town with four mosquesand a Catholic vicarage (7 hours from Kludsch) . We do notadvise the tourist to put up here, but to proceed further on toGÖLHISSAR, or JESERO (9 hours from Kludsch).A small town, in a most picturesque and romantic situation onthe river Pliva, and two or three of its arms and tributaries , atthe foot of Mount Ottomali. We ride through the N. part ofthe town to a khan on the road we shall have to take whenleaving for Jaitze; it is the best in the place.66'We arrived at Jesero, about 8.30 p.m. , by moonlight. Itwas a beautiful evening, and the whole scene magically illuminated by the silvery flood pouring over the town, glittering inthe numerous streams and pools that were babbling and murmuring on all sides, and floating, as it were, on the wreathing330 GUIDE TO TURKEY.shapes of white mist that circled round the majestic form ofMount Ottomali from the rivers below. The leaves of the trees,amongst which a white mosque, with its graceful minaret, washalf concealed and half revealed, glittered like burnished silver,and across the bridge gleamed the red lights from some forges,like gigantic fire-flies . Such a scene can never be forgotten;nor did the discomforts of the khan in any way dispel theenchanting impression the place made upon us."Leaving Jesero, we keep along the mountain slopes to the left,the Pliva, and a tract of swampy ground on our right at somelittle distance. In less than a quarter of an hour, however, thevalley contracts, and the river expands into a lake about onemile long. The road leads close along the shore, the mountainsopposite descending almost straight into the water. At the endof this first lake both shores project in two promontories, onlyleaving an egress of about 40 feet wide for the waters to passthrough, in a cascade some 12 feet high, into a second lake or ,rather, a succession of rapids formed by ridges of rocks, withtrees growing on them, stretching across from shore to shore inparallel lines. Again the bed contracts , and the road leaves theshore, passing by the dwelling ofa Hadji on the contracting promontory to the R. After leaving this second portal, the riverforms another series of rapids, of which we gain a glimpse nowand then, as we descend the hill- side, past an enormous tree andcemetery on the R., beneath the massive citadel frowning downupon us from the heights above, into the town ofJAITZE (2 hours from Jesero): population, 3,000 .Jaitze is undoubtedly the most interesting town in Bosnia,and will take up a day or two in a very agreeable manner. TheMudir is very civil and polite, as are also all the officials. Thekhan is not bad; but the traveller will do best to solicit a lodgingfrom the Franciscan priest stationed here."We were delighted with Jaitze. The town is built in terraces around the sides of a conical hill, which is surmounted bythe ancient citadel. As we had entered the town, we had passedthrough a low massive gate leading over a moat, which had onceformed part of the ancient fortifications, and the whole townROUTE XXXIV. -TRIESTE TO SERAJEWO. 331presents a curious mixture of Christian mediæval architectureand the Turkish style; bits of massive towers, and narrow embrasures by the side of the Turkish jalousies, the ruins of aChristian church and a campanile still containing a clock by theside of a mosque and minaret. Our first steps were directedtowards the citadel, of which we had obtained the keys from theMudir. The walls, bastions, and towers were still strong andmassive, although no repairs had been undertaken for years.After some difficulty in finding the key to open the rusty oldlock, we entered the gate. On the ground to our left were theremains of some old iron bombs and two or three stone cannonballs . We were now in the midst of a large courtyard, thecentre of which was taken up by a half- subterranean building,most likely the powder-magazine in former days. Now it contains nothing but a dozen or so old cannon, mostly Austrian,booty of former wars. One of them bears an inscription, showing that it dated from the time of Ferdinand, Emperor of Germany and Archduke of Austria, 1529. Ascending from thismagazine, we mounted upon the walls, where we had a mostmagnificent view of the town and country around. A longcannon on the wall facing the east commands the town, and wasapparently the only serviceable piece in the fort.Retracing our steps, and again entering the town, we wenttowards the ruins of the church, when our guide led us off tothe right into a tower, which we entered, descending into thestructures below. Utter darkness prevailed , and we did notknow whether we were in a dungeon or cellar until we lighted atorch, and found ourselves in a series of chambers hewn out ofthe solid rock, with various niches cut in the sides, apparentlyintended as receptacles for sarcophagi. The two chief chamberscommunicate by two doorways, between which the rock is cutout on both sides like an altar, with a cross cut right throughthe dividing wall above and between the two altars . A littleniche is on each side of the cross, evidently intended for fourlamps. Our guide, and those who accompanied us, said thesechambers were dungeons, and pointed out a stone said to havebeen used as a stool, directing our attention to the way it had332 GUIDE TO TURKEY.been hollowed out by constant use. Whether the place bea dungeon or burial-vault, we leave to others to determine. Wewere told by the Franciscan priest that Mathew Corvinus was buried here, which, however, must be a mistake. The Mudirsaid he was buried on one of the hills opposite, which is likewisea mistake; for, though our history is rather shaky in this respect,we have a decided recollection that he was buried somewhere inHungary. The fortress, however, was taken by him after theTurks had captured it in 1463. In 1524, they were beaten; butretook the fort in 1527, since when it has remained in their pos- session.Emerging from the gloom of the subterranean chambers, andblinking like owls at noon, we went to see the cascade, formedby the fall of the Pliva into the Urbas; and when we got there wefelt as if we could stay for hours. The river falls over a massof tuff rock, divided in the middle by one block, with a treegrowing out of it, and one stream pouring out of a cavern,which it has burrowed through the rock to the L. Totteringmills, built out into the stream, almost overhang the falls, andevery moment one almost expects to see them swept away by thevolume of water that dashes on the slanting mass of graniteat our feet. But the destiny that watched over the Turk, whosat smoking his pipe, and tranquilly contemplating the scenebefore him, must also have upheld these rickety structures; forby no other means would it have been possible for them toremain erect. After lingering here for half an hour, we returned to our khan, a little way out of the town, in the valleyof the Urbas; for, if possible, we always preferred taking up ourquarters as far as possible on the road by which we intended tocontinue our journey."Soon after leaving Jaitze we cross the Urbas, and then continue along one of its tributaries, up a narrow valley, in whichwe remain for upwards of an hour, and then commence theascent of the saddle, connecting the Karaula Planina in the N.and the Radowan Planina in the S. The road has been newlyconstructed by Achmed Pasha, of Bihatsch, who commenced itwhen at Trawnik. It is a very fair specimen of road-making, atROUTE XXXIV. - TRIESTE TO SERAJEWO. 333least for Turkey, though it winds about in numerous zigzags,which might have been avoided. Six hours after leaving Jaitze,we arrive at the Khan of Karaula, where we have a fine viewover the plain of the Laschwa and the mountains of theRadowan and Bitowanjali Planinas. In three hours from here,descending into the valley, we arrive atTRAWNIK. (See Route XXIX, page 305.)Soon after leaving Trawnik, we cross the Laschwa, then theBila, and, before Vitesh (5 miles) , the Laschwa for the secondtime. The next place of any size is Bussowatz (12 miles) ,where we advise the traveller to put up for the night, althoughthe khan is bad.From here the road lies in the valley, between the Zahorina Planina, on the R., and the Kralin Planina on the R.,past Jehovatz, to Kisseljak. Hence to SERAJEWO, see RouteXXVIII, page 303.334 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XXXV.Trieste to Cattaro.[ For the time of departure, see Bradshaw's Continental Guide. ]THE steamer remains full in sight of the coast of Istria, pastthe bay and town of Muggia and the town ofCAPO D' ISTRIA, the Roman Egida, situated on an island inthe bay, and connected with the mainland by a stone dyke.Population, 10,500.The PALAZZO PUBBLICO is built on the site of a templeerected to Cybele.The PRISON and HOUSE OF CORRECTION for the whole districtis also situated here.We then steam pastPIRANO (10,000) .On a promontory stretching out into the sea, with a remarkable church perched up on the height, and supported by a seriesof arches, and the crenelated walls of the old fortress peeringabove the olive -groves around them. It was in the waters ofPirano that Doge Sebastian Ziani completely destroyed thefleet of Frederick I., and took his son, Otto, prisoner in 1177,for which victory he received the ring from Pope Alexander III. ,symbolical of the dominion of Venice over the Adriatic, whencearose the annual ceremony of casting a ring into the sea, denotingthe espousal ofVenice to the Adriatic."The spouseless Adriatic mourns her lord."Childe Harold, iv. 2.A painting by Giulio dal Moro, in the Palazzo Ducale inVenice, represents the triumph and reception of the ring fromAlexander III. , by Ziani.The next town isCITTANOVA, andROUTE XXXV. -TRIESTE TO CATTARO. 335PARENZO, containing one of the oldest churches-a basilica ,dating from 961 (according to others, from the times of Justinian, 538) , and formerly the first station ofthe Crusaders.Further on, at the mouth of a deep inlet, at the extreme footof Monte Maggiore (4,400 feet) , we see the episcopal castle ofOrsera. Thence toROVIGNO (142,000): Hotel Pola.Easily recognised by the daring steeple of the church of St.Euphemia. Rovigno drives a considerable trade in olives, oil,wine, and sardines-the latter to an extent of 80,000 florinsannually.We then enter the Straits of Fasana, between the islands ofBrione and the mainland; and, almost immediately after leavingthem, the imposing AMPHITHEATRE OF POLA breaks upon theeye, and we enter the spacious harbour, which is guarded bytwo massive towers, and is generally used as a naval station bythe Austrian fleet.POLA: Hotel de la Ville: (population, 2,100) ,Is a very ancient town, and, under Severus, contained over30,000 inhabitants. During the wars of the Venetians withthe Genoese, it was several times captured and retaken, till , in1379, it was already no better than a ruin, the ancient Romanremains alone withstanding, in comparative perfection, thehand of man and time.Proceeding from the harbour to the market-place, we followa long street, which is closed by thePORTA AURATA, a triumphal arch, 22 feet high, Corinthianstyle, "erected by Salvia Postuma with her own money,"and containing the names of several members of the Sergianfamily.A little to the right is the site of the ancient THEATRE.Scarcely any traces of it remain, beyond the marks of itsfoundations .Further on, in the old walls on the L., are the PORTAERCULEA, recognised by the head and club sculptured on thekey stone, and the PORTA GEMINA, with two arches, leading tothe present citadel; built, in 1640, by the Venetians, andoccupying the site ofthe Roman capitol.336 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Skirting the N. wall of the citadel, we come to a militarydepôt, in a building which was formerly a Franciscan monastery,erected in 1237.We now come to theAMPHITHEATRE, built 150 A.D. , containing two rows of arches ,each 18 ft. high, placed one over the other, surmounted by arow of square windows. The total height is 80 ft.; length,430 ft.; breadth, 350 ft. So far, it resembles all the ancienttheatres; but four projecting towers on the exterior distinguish*t from all others, though it is true that traces of similar structures exist in the Amphitheatre at Trèves. The seats havebeen entirely destroyed, and made use of in building some of theVenetian palaces. Some of them have been discovered, markedwith the owners' initials. They were not more than 15 incheswide. This amphitheatre therefore presents a curious contrastto those of Verona and Syracuse, the seats of which are nearlyentire, and the walls utterly destroyed. The view over the seaand islands through the arches, especially when the sun issetting, is most beautiful. The sea seems almost at your feet,and, in fact, when regarding the ruins from a distance on thewater, you see the whole of the wonderful structure , apparentlyas perfect now as it was when the Romans sat beholding theirbarbarous sports , perfectly reflected with all its glowing coloursin the calm surface beneath .The TEMPLE OF ROMA and AUGUSTUS, with a portico of theCorinthian Order, with six columns, is now used as a museum,containing some of the antiquities found near and in Pola.Close by is theTEMPLE OF DIANA, partly built into the Palazzo Pubblico(1321) .The DUOMO, is of a very early date, and contains a font,formerly a piscina adorned with a reclining Venus and twoCupids. It was at Pola that Constantine murdered his sonCrispus, in consequence of the false accusation made againsthim by his stepmother, Fausta.After leaving Pola, we pass the Punta di Promontore, the S.point of Istria, and the entrance of the Quarnero, the dangersROUTE XXXV. -TRIESTE TO CATTARO. 337of which are notorious, what with rocks, shallows, and intricatepassages. The great curse of the Quarnero, in former timeswas the race of the Usco*ks, who, by lighting a fire in a cavernnear the shore, were supposed to be able to create a storm atwill. The Usco*ks were the haiducs (outlaws and robbers) ofthese coasts , and originated in the union of bands of men, rebelsagainst the Turks, who gradually became strong enough tomake themselves masters of Clissa, near Spalato, from which,however, they were driven by the Ottomans in 1537, when theArchduke Ferdinand afforded them protection, which theyrepaid by attacking all vessels that came within their reach,until they were forced to leave the coast, and take up theirabode in the mountains between Carlstadt and Neustadt inN. Croatia; where they have given their name to the district,Uskoken- Gebirge.We now pass the island of Unie, and the long narrow one ofOssero, where we touch atLUSSIN PICCOLO (3,200) ,A well-built, thriving town, rising partly up the hill, whichis crowned by a church, somewhat like Syra. The inhabitantsare famed for their seamanship, and drive a considerable tradein olives and wine. Date-palms grow here.The next place we stop at isSELVE,On the island of the same name. Then, passing the S. pointof the island of Ulbo on the L., we enter the Channel of Zara,the islands of Isto and Melada on the R., those of Pago andPontedura in the distance to the L. Then Isola Sestrugna onthe R., after which comes Uglian, also on the R., celebrated forits marbles, and thenZara,the ancient Iadera, and the present capital of Dalmatia:population, 10,000. Zara is celebrated for the siege it sustainedagainst the combined forces of the French and Venetians in1202.The town had risen against the Venetians, and the Crusadersof the 4th Crusade having applied to Venice for vessels to tranZ338 GUIDE TO TURKEY.sport them to the Holy Land, the Council agreed to furnishthem with vessels sufficient to accommodate 20,000 foot and4,500 knights and their horses, with 700 squires, for the sum of85,000 marks of silver. When the Crusaders came to reckonup their available resources, they found themselves short of34,000 marks, when Doge Dandolo proposed they should assisthim in reducing the revolted town of Zara in default, which theCrusaders agreed to, in spite of the Pope's express stipulation,that they should abstain from attacking any Christian power orpeople.On the 10th November, the allies appeared before the town,and after a severe struggle, which lasted five days, Dandoloentered and pillaged the town, not even sparing the churches,when a quarrel arose between the conquerors respecting thedivision of the booty, and the French and Venetians in turnbegan to fight amongst themselves, the latter losing a consider- able number of men. This dissension was looked upon as a consequence of the displeasure of God for their having warredagainst a Christian town, and, in order to obtain the Divinepardon, theCATHEDRAL OF DUOMOwas built in the thirteenth century, by Enrico Dandolo. It is anoblong structure, with a nave and two aisles . The façade hasone chief portal in the centre, leading into the nave, and ornamented with two statues on each side, and one over the other,and a smaller portal for each of the two aisles on either side.Above the portals there are three rows of blank arches , andover the centre portal two rosettes. The interior possesses nothingof any importance.66 The PORTA DI MARINA is of Roman origin, and consists ofone single arch, formerly surmounted by statues; statuissuperponi, " as the ancient inscription has it. Above the Romaninscription, there is a modern one, recording the victory of theLepanto.The PORTA DI TERRA FERMA, on the E. side, is adorned withDoric columns, and was built by San Michiele.There are no otherantiquities at Zara worthyof note, except someROUTE XXXV. -TRIESTE TO CATTARO. 339remains of an aqueduct and two Corinthian columns, one in thePIAZZA DELLE ERBE, and the other on a space near the churchof SAN SIMEONE. On the former, the Lionof St. Mark still partlyremains, and attached to it are the chains by which criminalswere fastened when pinioned, in the times of the Republic.The church of SANTA MARIA adjoins a Benedictine nunnery,built in 1066, by the sister of King Cresimir, of Croatia . Thetower was subsequently added, in 1105, by Coloman, King ofHungary.Leaving Zara, we pass Borgo Erizzo, inhabited by Albanians;Oltre and Calle in the island of Uglian, on the R.; oppositeCalle, on the mainland, to the L. , we pass Bibigne, and three miles further on, San Cassiano. Wethen enter the strait, between the island of Pasman and the mountainous mainland, uninhabited, till we pass San Filippo e Giacomo and Zara Vecchia.It was formerly an important town, but was destroyed in 1115,by the Venetians; it is now a village of some 600 inhabitants.Some five miles inland, to the east, lies Vrana, a residence ofthe Knights Templars in the 12th and 13th centuries. Themonastery, fortified in the ancient manner, was given to them bythe King of Hungary.We now sail along a belt of low land separating the sea froma long narrow lake, then past the curiously shaped promontoryof Morter, and the villages of Trebocconi, Vodizze and Provicchio, till we enter the harbour, and stop at the town ofSebenico,Population 3,500, on a tortuous bay, into which the river Kerkaflows, the falls of which are well worth seeing . They can bereached by boat. There are two falls, those of Scardona, nearthe town ofthe same name, and those of Slap (which means Fall) ,some distance up the river.The town is commanded and crowned by the Castle of SantaAnna, and further on by two forts on higher ground behind,San Giovanni and Il Barone.z 2340 GUIDE TO TURKEY.THE DUOMO was commenced in 1415, and ended in 1555.The style is mixed Gothic and Cinque-cento. It stands on theN. side of the Piazza del Duomo, opposite the Café, whichwas formerly the Loggie. The roof is covered in by stone slabs .Schiavone (+1582) and Martin Rota, the painter and engraverwere born in Sebenico, which is, besides , celebrated for its wines-Vino Tartaro and Maraschino-and for its fish-red mullet,palimidi, something like gigantic mackerel, and dentali dellacorona (Sparus gibbosus).The islands round about Sebenico produce coral and spongein great abundance.Leaving Sebenico we pass the island of Zlarin on the R.,with nothing of any interest, until we come to Cape la Planca,the ancient Promontory Diomedis, whence, direct to the S. ,we perceive the island of LISSA, famous for the victories gainedin its waters by Sir W. Hoste, over the French squadron in 1811,and by Admiral Tegethoff over the Italian fleet under AdmiralPersano, in 1866.We now pass the islands of Zirona and Solta on the R., andBua on the L., joined to the mainland by a bridge, oppositeTrau, the spire and houses of which we just have a sight, onapproaching the island. We are now in the channel, and soonarrive at the town ofSpalato,or Split, population, 14,000. The name is derived from SalonaPalatium (Sapalatium-Spalatum-Spalato) . It presents afine appearance from the sea. Nearly half of the frontage istaken up by the remains of Diocletian's Palace. The moderncitadel stands on an eminence behind the town to the R; in themiddle arises the lofty campanile, and in the distance to the L.,perched up on a height, the fortress of Clissa, alreadymentioned as having been held by the Usco*ks and Osmanlis.Spalato owes its existence to the Emperor Diocletian, whowas a native of Salona, at the head of the bay, about 4 milesto the N.E., and, with a view to his resignation, built the palacein 303 A.D. , of which the ruins still form the greatest attractionROUTE XXXV. -TRIESTE TO CATTARO. 341in the place. It was twelve years building, and the quarriesnear Trau furnished the stone, a very fine kind of freestone,scarcely inferior to marble. After Diocletian's death, part ofthe palace was used as a cloth factory, in which women alonewere employed; hence the name of Gynæcium, by which it isalso known. In the following century it was inhabited by JuliusNepos, after he had been driven from Ravenna, by Orestes ,the father of Augustulus, with the permission of Glycerius,the Bishop of Salona, whom he had formerly deposed. However, Nepos was shortly afterwards murdered in this samepalace, and Ocliva, one of the assassins, made himself master ofDalmatia for one year, when he was in turn put to death byOdoaker, King of the Heruli, A.D. 481. In the 6th and 7thcentury, when Salona was taken by the Avars, the Salonitanssought a refuge within the walls of the palace, and from thattime modern buildings have been clustered around and withinits precincts till one can scarcely tell where the one ends andthe others begin.The palace almost forms a square, the four corners being protected by as many quadrangular towers.The VESTIBULE is the part which is best preserved. A capitalview may be obtained of it from the chemist's, facing the gate.Here we see the Duomo on the L., formerlythe Temple ofJupiter, with a granite Sphinx, on a wall to the L., as you enterthe portico. Opposite is the BAPTISTERY, formerly the Templeof Aesculapius, with two sarcophagi before the door, one ofthem with sculptures representing a boar hunt. The bas reliefsof the frieze are beautifully executed.The Campanile of the Duomo was built in 1360 .The PORTA AUREA is half buried in the soil, but enoughremains to show its exquisite workmanship. The upper parthas a row of three niches and seven arches, formerly supportedby six porphyry columns, which were taken away by the Venetians.The ruins of Diocletian's palace rank with the wonders oftheworld, and produce a greater impression upon the mind thanany similar ruins, even at Rome. The contrast between the342 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Past and Present is stronger here than in the city of the Cæsars itself. The puny productions of the modern generationsplastered upon the gigantic remains of their predecessors, bearalmost the same proportions as a swallow's nest does under theeaves of a church, and it is almost impossible to realise the fact,that the founder of this great edifice must have had somethingof the character ofthe peasant that brings the produce of his gardens to sell within its walls, when he said, in reply to Maximilian who came to beg him to resume the Imperial purple, " Ifthou couldst see the cabbages planted with our own hands, atSalona, thou wouldst not advise the resumption of government!"The MUSEUM does not contain anything of great interest.The Archi-episcopal Palace, just behind the Duomo, was theabode of the famous Marc Antonio de Dominis, and where hediscovered the theory of the prism by the drops of water fallingfrom the eaves. He made use of this discovery in a work, “ DeRadüs Visus ac Lucis, " written in 1590, and printed in Venice1611, wherein he describes the formation of the rainbow. Hewas born in the island of Arbe, in the Quarnero, and passedthe early part of his life in the Jesuit College at Loreto, then asProfessor of Mathematics in Padua, and later of Philosophy atBrescia. Clement VIII. made him Bishop of Segua, and, subsequently, he was appointed to the Archbishopric of Spalato.In 1615, however, he vacated his See, in consequence of variousdisputes with the Vatican, went to Heidelberg, and, shortlyafterwards, to England, where he embraced Protestantism, andwas ultimately made Dean of Windsor by James I. ButGregory XV. , inducing him to return to the Catholic faith , heagain went to Italy in 1622. On Gregory's death, however, hewas imprisoned in the Castle of St. Angelo by the incensedhierarchy, and, in 1625, poisoned as it is supposed; his body wasburnt in the Campo dei Fiori. Thus ended the career of thisremarkable man.Three and a half miles from Spalato, at the head of the bay,are the ruins of SALONA. There is not much remaining. TheAmphitheatre is the best preserved, a little way beyond which,ROUTE XXXV. -TRIESTE TO CATTARO. 343to the R. of the road leading to Trau, is the tomb of St. Caio,who was a native of Salona, and Pope in 272-296, when hewas put to death by Diocletian . The tomb has been convertedinto a chapel.The bridge over the Giadro, on which Salona lies , is probablyof Roman origin. The river itself contains excellent trout;woodco*cks, ibis, and water-fowl abound in this vicinity, especiallythe red-legged partridge.Two miles N.E. beyond Salona, we come to Clissa, which hasbeen held in turn by Romans, Hungarians, Osmanlis, Venetians,Usco*ks, and Knights-Templar. Splendid *view from the top.To return to Spalato. No one should leave it without takingsundry bottles of Vugava, a white wine, from the island ofBrazza,with a most delicious bouquet. Malvasia, a very dry, aromaticwine, is doubtless the Malvoisie of the olden times. Spalatois also famous for its confectionery.There is a Casino here, to which strangers are admitted, andwhere they will find every attention from the Spalatines, whoare excessively polite and friendly to strangers.From Spalato, the ship's course depends on the orders received.It either follows the coast past Macarsca and Almissa, or elsesteams to Lesina and Curzola.As we shall have to refer to the former route later, we willnowdescribe the one via Lesina and Curzola to Ragusa.On leaving Spalato, we steer past Milna, in Isola Brazza onthe L., and Isola Solta on the R., and soon perceive Fort San Nicola onthe heights to the N.E. of the town ofLESINA,Capital of the island of the same name, which it derives fromits long narrow shape, resembling a shoe-maker's awl. It is theancient Insula Pharos, and was a favourite place of refuge forthe early Christians. Several of the martyrs are buried here—a fact which explains its title of Lesina, la Santà. The population of the entire isle is about 16,000, engaged in fishery, andthe trade in oil, figs, honey, wool, and especially saffron, androsemary oil and water.The town is well built at the head of a bay, and in the slopes344 GUIDE TO TURKEY.of the hills behind. The port is protected by a small artificialisland, and the larger Isole Spalmadore, by Fort San Nicolo,on the N.E., Fort Spagnuolo, just above the town, built byCharles V., and a battery on the shore at each side.On the Marina stand the Loggie, built by San Michiele, andstill bearing the Lion of St. Mark. The torture-room is stillshown.Continuing our voyage, we catch a glimpse of the monasteryof Santa Domenica, nestling in a fissure of the towering precipice above it, and at a short distance from the shore. It isoccupied by two or three Franciscan friars, after remaining deserted for some years.We now pass Isola Torcola on the R., and enter the gulf ofthe Narenta, fast approaching the long peninsular of the Sabioncello on the L., and the island of Curzola on the R. Racischieis the first town on the R., and Cuciste on the L., after passingwhich we soon arrive atCURZOLA (population, 3,000) , opposite Orebich, in the Sabioncello.The town is nearly half unpopulated; at every turn we comeupon some deserted palace. The streets are very narrow, andthe houses all built of stone, beautifully mellow, and with projecting, and, in many cases, fine, carved windows. The streetsare similar to those of Malta, mounting by steps from the shore,as in the case of the street leading to theDUOMO,with a richly ornamental portal, supported by twistedcolumns. The centre of the façade has a finely carved rosettewindow. The whole teems with grotesque heads and curiousornaments, and can be viewed at leisure from the café opposite,which also contains a billiard table, and has a choice assortment of confectionery and wines.The streets of Curzola teem in choice " bits, motives, " for theartist. Balconies, doorways, windows, and chimneys, allrichly and curiously sculptured. " On the inner door of a certain avvocato's house, whose name we have, unfortunately,forgotten, there is an ancient bronze knocker, brought fromROUTE XXXV. -TRIESTE TO CATTARO. 345Candia, by the ancestors of the family, and said to date fromthe time of Troy. It is a fine piece of workmanship, and wellworth seeing. The Caffétier, at the café, will show anybodythe house, nay, if the traveller only pull out his sketch- book,and begin to draw, ten to one some one will lead him to thefamous knocker of Troy. Ask for the Martello di Troja, delSignor Avvocato. "Outside the town there is a fine avenue of cypresses , leadingup to a knoll, on which there are a chapel dedicated to St.Anthony, and one or two miserable cottages. Fine * view.It was at Curzola, that the celebrated traveller, Marco Polo,wrote the history of his travels, during a four years' captivity.He had commanded a galley, and was wounded in the actionhere, between the Venetians and the Genoese, in 1298, whenAndrea Dandolo, the Venetian Proveditore, was also takenprisoner. He was loaded with chains, and borne by the victorious Genoese in triumph to Genoa, but, on arriving, hedashed his head against the bulwark, and killed himself. MarcoPolo, however, was liberated , on the publication of his work,owing to the admiration and esteem with which it was lookedupon, even by his captors.Curzola, was an English possession from 1813-1815, whenit was ceded to Austria. It is protected by walls and towers,which, however, are not of much account. Its chief defence, isthe fort, commanding the entrance to the two ports, with around tower, built by the English, 1814.The inhabitants of Curzola are famed for their skill in shipbuilding, especially small boats, which are exported even toConstantinople. The pines of Curzola were famous inVenetian times; but, at present there is not enough wood onthe island for export.In many places we see the inevitable Lion of St. Mark,the sign of its former possession by the Venetians, who obtainedit from the Ragusans, by the following amusing stratagem:-Opposite the town of Ragusa, the Venetians had an island calledSan Marco, and still nearer, a rock, with only just room enoughfor a few houses on the top. One evening, they constructed a346 GUIDE TO TURKEY.sham fort, of wood and pasteboard, painted like an earthwork,and mounted it with a number of large sham wooden cannonscommanding and threatening the town of Ragusa. The terrified inhabitants at once sent over to treat with their crafty foes,and were only too glad to cede the island of Curzola, in exchange for the rock that had so quickly been fortified, on condition of the fortifications being razed to the ground, whichwas as speedily affected as their erection.Leaving Curzola, we sail past the olive-clad shores of theSabioncella, with the villages of Podbuchie, Potomje, PopovaLuca, and San Giuliana, situated in a lovely position on theshore of a bay. The greater part of the place stretches up thevalley.We now enter the channel of Melida, the island of the samename on the R., the Sabioncello still on the L. It is one of theancient Melitas, so called from the abundance of its honey, andis held by some to be the scene of St. Paul's shipwreck. As weenter the channel, we pass the Punta dell Palazzo, from thepalace, of which there are still some unimportant remains, builtby the father of the poet Oppian, Agesilaus of Cicilia, havingbeen banished here by Severus Septimius.Passing the isles of Giupan, Ruda, Mezzo, and Calamotta, allofthem producing great quantities of fine olives, we arrive atPopulation, 8,000.Ragusa.Ragusa bears all the appearance of former splendour, andmany are the mementos of the times when the Argosies, orRagosies of Ragusa, bore their precious cargoes to all the chiefports ofthe Mediterranean. A proof ofthe value of the merchandise transported by these Argosies is contained in the fact thatin 980, one was captured by the Venetians with a cargo worth25,000 ducats, and another in 997, of 14,000.The history of Ragusa is that of a series of struggles with itsrival Venice, the Turks, Hungarians, Servians, etc., by which itgreatly suffered, but still continued to maintain its independence.The greatest blow it ever received was the terrible earthquakeROUTE XXXV. -TRIESTE TO CATTARO. 347by which the city was almost totally destroyed, April 6, 1667.It would seem to be built over the very centre of a volcanic , orearthquake centre; for almost every twenty years the shocksoccur with surprising regularity. But, in spite of all , the naturalbuoyancy of the Italians, and their incapability of realising thefuture, prevents them from forsaking their city and migrating tothe securer site on the bay of Gravosa.mile long, and traversesThe other streets , withThe chief street, the Corso, is nearlythe town from the sea to the W. gate.the exception of one entering the Corso at right angles, are likethose of Curzola, narrow and often ascending by means of steps,They are all scrupulously clean, and the houses well built.Nowhere does the Lion of St. Mark appear, a fact sure to beimpressed upon you with pride by the Ragusans.The PALAZZO COMUNALE is a fine building, one of those thatescaped the earthquake in 1667. One of the columns at theentrance is surmounted by a curious capital, representing analchemist, book in hand, with his rows of jafs, bottles, andan alembic, with tongue- like flames issuing from the furnace.The court contains the bust of Michael Prazetz, who bequeathed the sum of 80,000 ducats to the republic, and a squarepillar, used for supporting the staff (à la Venezia) with the flagof the republic.A figure in plate- armour is supposed to represent KnightRoland, symbolical of the right of the city to supreme jurisdiction. In many parts of Germany and Italy, a figure of Rolandhas the same signification.The DUOMO possesses nothing of any interest for Protestants,but for Catholics it possesses a number of relics.The CHURCH OF THE JESUITS, at present of the Padre delleScuole Vie, contains the tomb of the celebrated Boscovich (†1787,at Milan).The town is surrounded by walls at the foot of a chain ofrocky, barren mountains, and protected by Forte Rivellinoon the E., Forte San Lorenzo, on a rock in the sea, and ForteImperiale, on the summit of Monte Sergio.A favourite place of resort for the Ragusans, their Tivoli, is348 GUIDE TO TURKEY.the VAL D'OMBLA, in the bay of Gravosa, where the steamersanchor in stormy weather. It is not more than 1½ mile fromRagusa to Gravosa. The Val d'Ombla, a most lovely valley,lies N. W. of Gravosa. The river Ario flows through it, itsbanks on the sides of the hills clothed with cypress, fig, andolive. A church and Franciscan monastery stand on a projecting tongue of land, where the river expands into the bay.The scenery is lovely, and no one should omit visiting it.Ragusa was the birth-place of the celebrated philosopher,Ghetaldi (born in 1566, † in 1627) . A cave is shown in a garden to the S. E. of Ragusa, opposite the island of Lacroma, inwhich he used to study. It is called La Betina, from the nickname, Bete given him by the people.On leaving Ragusa we pass Isola Lacroma on the R., and inabout one hour RAGUSA VECCHIA, population, 3,500, the ancientEpidaurus, founded 689, B.C., by a colony of Greeks. At somelittle distance from the shore we pass the village of Cilippi,Popovichi, and Poglizza, when we enter the BOCCHE DI CATTARO,passing a narrow strip of the Herzegowina, which stretchesdown to the sea on the L., along the W. shore of the bay, andopposite the town ofCASTEL NOVO (8,500 inhabitants) ,commanding the approach to the harbour. It was founded byTwartko I., King of Bosnia, in 1373. Ninety years afterwardsit fell into the hands of the Osmanlis, who possessed it till 1538,when it was captured by the Venetians and Spaniards, and thefortress on the N.W. built by the latter. The following yearBarbarossa succeeded in taking it. In 1687, however, it againfell into the power of Venice, which retained it to the end of theRepublic.The scenery is most lovely; high mountains, picturesquecrags, luxuriant groves, and gleaming villas, peering out amongthe varied foliage; churches and villages, either reflected in theplacid surface of the crystal waters, or perched up on apparentlyinaccessible heights, form a series of pictures not to be comparedwith any other part of the world. Imagine the almost tropicalsun and the barren but mellow-coloured mountains for a back-ROUTE XXXV. -TRIESTE TO CATTARO. 349ground, transported to Como, and you will have a faint idea ofthe beauties of the scenery here presented to the view. Wepass from one land- locked bay to the other, the scenery graduallybecoming wilder and more barren and rugged.After leaving Castel Novo first comes Combur and Gionovichon the L., the bay stretching off about 5 miles to the S. E., whenwe approach (9 miles from Castel Novo) a narrow channel calledLe Catene, from the iron chains that formerly defended thepassage, and not more than 380 yards wide. Near the entrance,on the R., is the village of Lastua Inferiore, and on issuing fromit, we have exactly opposite to us the town of Perasto, at thefoot of a promontory dividing the bay of Cattaro from that ofRisano on the L. Perasto is crowned by the fort of Santa Croce,and has two islands lying before it, La Madonna and San Giorgio.The church on the former island contains a miraculous pictureofthe Virgin, which was found one fine morning on the islandby some fishermen, who took it to the church at Perasto. Butthe picture knew best where it wanted to be, and in the nightwent back. This was repeated three times, when, of course, itbecame apparent that a chapel was to be built expressly for it;the which was straightways done. The present church datesfrom 1630.Turning towards Cattaro, we have the village of Stolivo, half hidden by its groves, and Persagno on the R. Then comesDobrata on the L., with its red-tiled and walled-in houses, andMulla on the R., when we lie to in front ofPopulation 4,400.Cattaro.It is situated on the E. shore of the head of the bay, on amountain divided from the rest of the chain by two deep ravinesto the N. and S. It is surrounded by walls and towers, andabove the town, and connected with it by a wall of twelvezigzags, pierced with numerous loopholes and embrasures, standsthe citadel, behind which the Austrian military road winds upthe mountain, like a gigantic serpent, towards Monte Sella, orLovcen.350 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XXXVI.Ragusa to Serajewo, via Fotscha.A GOOD road leads from Ragusa (see page 346) , to Tzarina,on the Herzegowinian frontier, whence we have a wretchedstony path to Drieno ( 3 hours) , a hamlet of a dozen houses.The road here improves, and, passing Ljubovo (4 hours) ,with the remains of the family castle of the Nemanjas, wearrive atTREBINJE (6 hours from Ragusa): population, 3,000. Seatof a mudir.It is situated in the fertile valley of the Trebinetza, and surrounded by an old wall, constructed by the Ragusans. In thetime of the Romans it was called Tribulium , and in 1483, afterthe death of the despot Stephen Cosaccia, was taken by theOsmanlis, under Essi Bey. In 1612, it was pillaged bypirates, who had landed in the Val d'Ombla, and, baffling theforces sent against them, escaped with their booty to theNarenta. Before its conquest by the Osmanlis, it was thecapital of the principality of Terbunia, which was hereditary inthe family of the Paulovich, who were inscribed in the GoldenBook of Ragusa. It is, at present, the seat of a brisk transittrade, and is noted for the excellence of its tobacco.The road now ascends the Gliva Planina to Jassen, traversesa barren Karst, descends into the valley of the Trebenitza, and,ascending again, leads to the plateau and village of Bilek (5hours) , where the Osmanlis generally have a camp to keepan eye on Montenegro. The traveller had better stay here forthe night.Resuming our journey, we follow a stony, execrable road, andcrossing the ridge of the Plana, gradually ascend to theplateau of Korito, which seems as if all the stones in the worldROUTE XXXVI. -RAGUSA TO SERAJEWO. 351had been thrown on to it pell-mell. Korito, itself, is nothingmore than a guard- house, protected by four massive walls. Wenow descend into the valley of the Tzernitza. The village ofthe same name is fortified by earth works, as there is generallya camp here. Then, ascending the plateau, we come to thevillage ofLIPNIK, or GATZKO, a miserable place, but where we must,perforce, spend the night. It is eight hours from Bilek.The road from Lipnik , through the valley of the Urba, is, atfirst, very fair, but as it approaches the saddle of the Tschemerno Planina, and the rocky Pletsche, it becomes very steepand difficult. But all difficulties are fully rewarded by themagnificent view, which breaks on the eye when we attain thetop of the saddle, and see the mighty precipices of the Sedlo andVolujak, towering above us, and, apparently, precluding all further progress.The dimensions of the Bosnian mountains, though nothinglike those of the Alps, still, appear much larger than they arein reality. They are more suited to the smallness of man,which means that there is not that foreshortening and perspective, which, understood, must be realised before the novicecan fully appreciate the dimensions of the mountains aroundhim. Whilst gazing upon the mighty precipices before us here,we were vividly reminded of Hutchinson's lines:-" Now, downward as I bend my eye,What is that atom I espy,That speck in Nature's plan?Great heavens! -is that a man?And hath that little wretch its cares,Its freaks, its follies, and its airs?And do I hear the insect say,' My lakes, my mountains, my domain?'O weak, contemptible, and vain!The tenant of a day.Say to old Skiddaw, ' Change thy place,'Heave Helvellyn from his base,Or bid impetuous Derwent standAt the proud waving of a master's hand."352 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Substitute the Volujak and Sedlo for Skiddaw and Helvellyn,the Sutinska for the Derwent, and we have the scene complete.We now descend into the valley of the Sutinska by a stony andprecipitous road, and followthe river. In one part, the rockson both sides approach to within 50 feet, and the road is nothingmore than a path of two feet in width, hewn in the solid rock,and so slippery and slanting towards the river, that if the heightof the water permit, it is best to ride along the bed. In theneighbourhood of the spot, which is marked in some maps, Pirlitor, existing solely on the map, are the remains of a castleperched upon the crags on the R. bank, said to have been builtby Stephen Duschan, and on the opposite precipice stood formerly a chapel, which was connected by a bridge. The name ofthe spot is Proszenitza, the " Sawn-through "-correspondingin idea to the Spanish Sierra.Still following, and often crossing, the river, we arrive, throughthe same wild, romantic scenery, at Tientista (9 hours fromLipnik) . The khan is bad, and we should recommend thetraveller to continue his journey for three hours more, acrossthe Treskovatz Planina, and over the Drina (by ferry) toFOTSCHA ( 12 hours from Lipnik). Hence toSERAJEWO. (See Route XXV. page 295.)ROUTE XXXVII.-SPALATO TO SERAJEWO. 353ROUTE XXXVII.Spalato to Serajewo, via Almissa and Imoschi.AN excellent road leads from Spalato along the sea- shore, pastSasso, two miles, to the L., and the village ofSTOBRETZ ,the ancient Epetium, perched like an eagle's nest on a rock,stretching out into the sea.Nothing of the ancient town remains but three sarcophagi of Roman origin.We now enter upon the territory formerly occupied by theRepublic of Poglizza, extending from Douare on the Tzettinain the S. to Sasso in the N. , and to Mount Mossor (400 feet) inthe E. The capital was Gatta, where, similar to the custom ofsome of the Swiss cantons, the great council was held in the openair. The Republic was formed by fugitives from Turkey andother parts of Dalmatia devastated by war and internal dissension. It was governed by a Veliki Knez or great Count, electedby the people from certain families. The last Count was AndreaCiovich, who was forced to seek refuge in Russia from theFrench, who commenced their attacks upon the Republic 1807,from the village of Stobretz, and utterly defeated the Poglizzansand the 400 Russians who were assisting them—" et finis eratPoglizza ."Continuing along the sea-shore, we pass Postrana on the L.,perched up on the mountain- slope 1½ mile distant, then Gesenizzeand Duchie in similar positions, till we cross the Tzettina by aferry to the town ofALMISSA, population, 1,200, the ancient Piguntium.On the top of the abrupt termination of a narrow ridge ofrock, above the town, rise the tower and walls of the castle ofMirabella, and further up the mountain the more importantfortress of Starigrad, invisible from the town because of the A A354 GUIDE TO TURKEY.cliffs and rocks concealing it. It is surrounded by dilapidatedwalls; on the S. side there is the Lion of St. Mark. The situation of Almissa, in the valley of the Tzettina is very beautiful;but the curse ofevil deeds hangs over it-the walls are unmannedand the fortress in ruins-for the Almissans in former dayswere pirates like their allies, the Narentines, and Almissa theAlgiers of the Adriatic, till they fell into the hands of the Venetians.The DUOMO contains various relics, amongst others a *pyx ofrock-crystal, stolen from the Benedictine Monastery, in theisland of Tremiti, in 1222.Almissa is celebrated for its wine, Vino di Rosa.Continuing our way we skirt the base of Mount Dinara, alongthe Tzettina, through a succession of wild, romantic scenes, pastthe village of Dobra Voda (Good Water) , till we come to thecascades of Mala and Vela Gubovitza (Small and Great Gubovitza) . The former is visible from the road, but the latter canonly be seen from the rocks above. Directly afterwards wecross the river opposite toDouare, a hamlet of some 40 houses at the foot of a ruggedrock, surmounted by the remains of the castle and walls, builtby the Osmanlis and taken by the Venetians, in 1646 .From here the road winds up to the castle, and then descending again, brings us to the village of Cisto, three hours fromDouare, which, though considerably out of the way to Imoschi,must be visited on account of the extraordinary number oftombs, some dating from the early Christian times before theadvent of the Moslems. There are over a hundred, all similarto those we meet with in Bosnia, of a rude sarcophagus shape,with still ruder sculptures. Some of them are adorned with theCross and Crescent, the emblems of Christianity and Islam, twosymbols greatly increasing the doubts existing about their date.But it by no means follows that the crescent in these cases hasa Moslem signification. It was the emblem of the Byzantines(see page 202), long before the arrival of the Osmanlis, and assuch would merely denote the nationality of the deceased, or theprovince to which he belonged.ROUTE XXXVII. -SPALATO TO SERAJEWO. 355The tombs at Cisto are many of them sculptured, representing the circ*mstances by which their tenants met with theirdeath. From Cisto we proceed S.E. to Opance, Lovrich, andthence to Loquicich, where we have some more tombs, onebearing a shield with the crescent in the L. corner, reposing ona sword of which only the hilt and point are visible. Here wehave a fine view of the Lake of Projolatz, on the L., noted forits eels, and the Jesero of Imoschi in front, and descending themountain side, we cross the bridge of Sumet Most, leaving thevillage of Projolatz to the L., at the entrance of a gloomyravine once guarded by a castle, of which the ruins still remain,apparently of Roman origin, and, soon afterwards, crossing theVerlizza, arrive atIMOSCHI (population, 1,050) , built on the mountain side, amidgardens and orchards. The roofs of the houses are covered withstone slabs like those of Konjitza and Mostar, which are whitewashed, so that, at a distance, they look as though covered withsnow.It contains an inn, but nothing else of any interest. The lionof the place is the Castle, built by Stephen, of Santo Saba (seepage 294) , and overhanging the precipices of the lake, or Jeseroof Imoschi, more than 600 feet below, over 8,000 feet long,nearly 2,678 feet wide, and about 60 feet deep. When dry,several cannon- balls which have rebounded from the castle- wallsduring its various sieges, are to be seen at the bottom. Thewater in this lake, which is called Jesero grande, is liable tophenomenal variations in its level, which have not been satisfactorily accounted for.About 30 feet below the Castle, a small slippery rock projectsfrom the precipice, called Il Sasso dei Saltanti, the rock of thejumpers. When the Venetians held the castle, they allowedtheir prisoners, who were condemned to death, to endeavour tosave their lives by jumping on to it from the summit. If onesucceeded in gaining a footing, his life was spared; if not, thelake received his mangled corpse, crushed in its fall against theprojecting rocks and crags.The traveller should take a ride from here to the Jesero Rosso,AA 2356 GUIDE TO TURKEY.or Red Lake, from the colour of the rocks around it, similar tothe one we have just described. Astream issues from this lakeabout the middle of November, and, after flowing for some time,suddenly stops. This phenomenon arises from the westwarddip of the strata, through which, when the lake is at a certainheight, the water runs to the base of the slope below. Still itis curious that it should only do so at a certain period.Near Runovich, between the two Jeseri, there are severalRoman tombs.From Imoschi, a road leads due E. to Mostar (12 hours) , viaBrotschiamatz, Mammitz, Dobrokovi, and the swamp, or morassof Blato.The road which we now follow traverses the stony plateau ofPosusje, and then a succession of rugged Karsts, till we arrive atSeonitza (5 hours) , a miserable hamlet, where we must cravea lodging from the priest, who is stationed here.Continuing our way, we traverse the plateau of Duvno, wherethe Roman city, Delminium, once stood. The horses of thisdistrict are noted for their powers of endurance.We now pass Orasatz and Lippa, have a tedious ascent anddescent of the Ljubusna and Dragusa Planinas, and then,traversing another Karst, arrive atStit, in the fruitful valley of the Rama. The priest will provide a lodging.Resuming our journey, we have a difficult ascent up thebushy acclivities of the Radusa Planina, past Volice, to GoiniVacouf (4 hours) , on the Urbas, a town of about 1,000 inhabitants, two mosques, a " Torre del orologia, " and a Franciscanvicarage.From here, we follow the course of the Urbas, and, passingBugoino (2 hours), shortly before arriving at Skoplje (2 hours),cross it over a wooden bridge, near to which are the stone piersof a Roman bridge.SKOPLJE (8 hours) , is a town of 2,000 inhabitants, and theseat of a mudir. The khan is very dirty; ask the mudir forquarters. There is nothing of any interest in the place.ROUTE XXXVIII. -MOSTAR TO METCOVICH. 357ROUTE XXXVIII.Mostar to Metcovich.THE ride can be accomplished in one day, if the roads begood. But if the Narenta have been overflowing its banks, theroad over the mountains must be taken, and at least ten hoursbe reckoned. That was the time the author took with posthorses; starting at four p.m., we did not arrive in Metcovich tilltwo a.m., though, it is true, the plains were flooded to such anextent as to require considerable detours.The usual road lies along the valley of the Narenta. 5miles from Mostar, we come toBOUNA (with a villa, built by one of the former viziers ofMostar) , a village of some 400 inhabitants, with a saw mill.Roman bridge, of thirteen arches, over the Buna.We then pass the village of Zitcomicich (10 miles) , Krusevichon the opposite bank (13 miles) , and then arrive through wild,lonely scenery, the river winding about, between the cliffs overhanging it, atPOJITEL, or POCITEL (population, 3,000) , 18 miles fromMostar; built in semi-circular form between, and on the sidesof two projecting promontories. Its position, with the wallsbuilt on the ridge of the hills behind it, and running down onboth sides to the river, is very similar to that of Antioch. Ithas a clock tower and three mosques, and was formerly one ofthe chief fortresses of the Duchy of St. Saba.Continuing our way, we pass Tassovcichi (19 miles) , and thencome to the river Bregava, over which there is a bridge similarto, but much smaller than the one at Mostar, and dating from1651. Then, passing Gabella, we cross the frontier, and enterAustrian territory atMETCOVICH, a small frontier town, where the civilised customsof asking for passports and the searching of trunks commence.It lies in low, unhealthy land, and the quicker you leave it thebetter.358 GUIDE TO TURKEY.ROUTE XXXIX.Metcovich to Orebich and Curzola.THIS tour takes two days. Leaving Metcovich, the road windsalong various mountain defiles, many of them taken up by thelagoons and branches of the Narenta, the largest of which,Lago di Couti, we pass just before again entering a strip ofTurkish territory, extending down to the sea, about five milesbroad. The Ottomans recently began to build a fort on the seashore here, but were obliged to desist in consequence of the representations of the Austrian Government. The works stillexist, but are unarmed. Three miles past Imotizza, after agradual descent, we arrive at the bay of Stagno. In order tohave a boat at once, it is best to telegraph from Metcovich. Ina quarter of an hour we cross the bay to the E. harbour ofStagno, or Lower Stagno. Two walls stretch right across themountain-ridge, forming the narrow isthmus not more thanthree-quarters of a mile broad, that connects the peninsula ofSabioncello with the mainland. These walls, with the Castle onthe top, formerly entirely enclosed and protected the two towns.Twenty minutes' walk brings us to the Upper or chief town ofSTAGNO (population, 1,200) , where we can take up our abodeat the inn in the Market-place, or else in a private house. Thereare plenty of apartments to be had cheap.The price for a horse to Orebich is 4 florins (silver) . Wepass the villages of Doncagne ( 7 miles), Giuliana ( 13 miles) ,where we regain the sea- shore; Popova Luca (16 miles),Potomje (21 miles) , Podbuchie (24 miles) , till we arrive, throughbeautiful scenery all the way, atOREBICH (30 miles) , a small town of 1,000 inhabitants, all ofthem well off, where we cross over to CURZOLA, and take shipwhither we list. (See page 344.)ROUTE XL. - CATTARO TO MONASTIR. 359ROUTE XL .Cattaro to Monastir via Tzettinje and Elbassan.LETTERS of introduction to some prominent personage in Tzettinje are indispensable; for no one is safe in Montenegro whowould travel unaccompanied by some official or known personfrom the capital.Tzernagora, Turk. , Karadagh, Abb. , Malesis, are all translations of Montenegro-Black Mountain.The Montenegrins are the last remnant of the old ServianEmpire, and have maintained their independence ever since1504, under their bishop-princes or Vladikas. The inaccessiblenature of the country made it a place of refuge from the earliesttimes for all seeking refuge from the tyranny of the Osmanlis;and if any one wishes to know what "the good old times ofthe Scottish Borderers were like , just let him take a tour throughMontenegro. The Montenegrins number about 33,000 souls ,divided into various tribes, taking their names chiefly from thetown or valleys they inhabit.Kutinska, with the sub- divisions Tzettinje , Njegush, Stzutze, Piessewitzi, Bielitza, Komani,Zagaratz, etc.LietscharkaTzernitzaRietzkaPiperiMoratschaKutschi, etc.BielopaulitzTotal......""42,0007,00014,00012,0008,000 .12,00021,00016,000132,500In 1606, according to the Venetian MS. of Bolizza, the population was 33,000; at the commencement of the present century,not more than 54,000.360 GUIDE TO TURKEY.On leaving Cattaro, we ascend the Austrian zigzag road,with many a beautiful view of the sinuous gulf, and the townand villages below. After an ascent of two good hours, wearrive at the frontier, where a Montenegrin road joins theAustrian, but infinitely inferior to it. Another hour brings usto the top of the pass and the district of Njegush. Soon afterwards we begin the descent to the valley of Tzettinje.On the L, we see the village of Donikrai and over the mountains in front the Lake of Scutari. The road winds down themountains to the R., and turning round an abrupt rocky ridgewe come upon the miniature capital of Montenegro, the town ofTzettinje.There are two inns here; both of them very fair, and passablyclean. On approaching the town, all its lions appear at thefirst glance. On the L. we see the Monastery at the foot ofa rock, surmounted by a round tower, half in ruins, whichused to be adorned with divers stakes, and on each stake a heador skull, ghastly mementos of Montenegrin victory and Turkishdefeat. Whether these grim trophies are still there or not wecannot say, but strong representations were made against thebarbarous spectacle by the Porte some years ago.To the R. lies the palace of the Vladika or Prince, a long lowbuilding surrounded by a wall, each corner flanked by a roundtower.The monastery was founded in 1485, by Juan Tzernoiebich,but the present building only dates from 1714. It contains thecrown treasures and the tomb of San Pietro, the Vladika, whodied in 1830, and was canonised by his successor.The plain in which Tzettinje is situated is about 2 miles long,and mile broad: in parts it is cultivated, but the greaterportion is fern and grassland. The houses are built of stone,generally loose and thatched. The whole number does notexceed forty.An interesting excursion may be made from here to Ostrok,the monastery, which is, par excellence, the stronghold of Mon-ROUTE XL. -CATTARO TO MONASTIR. 361tenegro. The road leads past the villages of Donikrai, Petrovdo—both not much better than a cluster ofgigantic swallow- neststo Podbukovo, which translated into classic Latin means" Sub tegmine fa*gi."Stone, stone everywhere, with here and there a beech or somestunted brushwood, and a Montenegrin hut, seemingly part andparcel of the ground it stands upon. We pass the village of Daub,about 1 mile to the L., to Risna, a village rejoicing in a group ofoak-trees.The next places we come to, after 8 hours' ride, are thevillages of Voinitze and Mishke, standing close to each other,Here the battle was fought in which Mustafa Pasha lost hisscalp, which is still preserved as a trophy, at Tzettinje.The road-that is to say the line of direction taken to Ostrok,leads over mountains, mountains, and nothing but mountains,across the valley of Oranido, beautifully wooded with beeches,and over the pass of Oranido along the slopes of MountGaratschto the village of Drenovitza, whence we arrive, crossingthe Tzetta, past Rostze atOSTROK (9 hours from Tzettinje), consisting of two monasteries and their outhouses.The Upper Monastery, or Monastery of San Basilo, a bishopof the Herzegowina, who retired here to end his days in solitude,is situated in a triangular chasm in the rocks, which towerabove it to the height of 400 feet, and descend almost perpendicularly to the valley below.The Lower Monastery is situated about 1 mile off at the footofthe same mountain, and is surrounded by trees.The traveller, if he choose, can follow the Tzetta from nearthe village of Rostze past the Turkish town of Spuss with itseyrie-like citadel perched up on an isolated crag, and thence toPodgaritza, (population, 13,000) and the Lake of Scutari.Leaving Tzettinje, a ride of 31 miles brings us to DobroKoselo, and a further march of 4 miles to RIEKA, on the riverTzernobitschi, the chief village or town of the department of362 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Rietzka. It is the best built and wealthiest in Montenegro, andpossesses an inn. Its great source of wealth is the Scoranza, orouklieva, a smalı fish resembing the sardine, and is either eatenfresh or salted for exportation . The fishery produces nearly20,000 florins yearly. They are caught in immense quantitiesin the stream, and in the Lake of Scutari, which also furnishesexcellent trout and carp, often weighing 30 to 40 lbs.From here we follow the stream to its entrance into the Lakeof Scutari, and then, turning to the L., cross the Moratsa toZabliak, where we are once more in Turkish territory. Thetwo peaked islands opposite are the Isle of Vranjina, and thesmaller one, Lesendria. From here we can either take a boat orfollow the shores of the lake to the town ofSCUTARI, or ISKENDERIA, the town of Scanderbeg, the ancientScodra, dating from the time of Pyrrhus. It was entirelydestroyed by Antius, and subsequently all traces of its formersplendour erased by the successive attacks made upon it by thebarbarians. In more modern times it was ruled by the Balsatzis,the ancestors of Scanderbeg. The castle of Rasafa, whichcrowns the rock overhanging the town, was once held byAntonio Loredano, with 120 men, against an army of 60,000Janissaries. Scutari's wealth also derived from the profits ofitsfisheries, which commence (for Scoranze) in September, whenthe Vladika blesses the Montenegrin side, and the RomanCatholic Bishop of Scutari his side of the lake, two diametricallyopposed personages in all things except one, the taking of tithesfrom the fishermen's harvest.From Scutari we proceed S.S.E., through a rich but uncultivated country, covered mostly with brushwood, with here andthere a village under its olive or fig-trees, toALESSIO (25 miles from Scutari) , the ancient Lissus, near theAdriatic, and situated on the mouth of the river Drina, in themidst of groves of cypress and plane-trees, which, with the factof its containing the tomb of Scanderbeg, explains the Turkishname of the place, Lesch, signifying tomb.It was once a rich and populous town, but owing to theaccumulation of numerous sandbanks, has dwindled into insig-ROUTE XL. -CATTARO TO MONASTIR. 363nificance. The church, more like a fortress than anything else,a remarkable castellated building, was turned into a mosque, andcontains the tomb of Scanderbeg, on whose death, in the 15thcentury, Bosnia became subject to Turkey.Vessels of 50 to 60 tons can enter the Drina as far as Scele, acorruption of Scala, a few miles from Alessio.Six hours' distance from Alessio we branch off from the postroad to the L., through the narrow defile of the Mati, toAKHISSAR, or KROIA (10 hours from Alessio) . The housesliterally cling to the rocks like so many nests, surmounted byruins ofthe eyrie castle, perched upon a rocky projection, whichScanderbeg held against Mohammed II. and his army of 100.000men, in spite of all efforts to dislodge him. The view from thisheight over the town, with its bazaar and minaret at the bottomof the crag, and across the wide plain, N. and S. of Scutari, ismost sublime.Scanderbeg, whose name at least is familiar toall, was born here,in 1404, kept as a hostage at Constantinople, and brought up aMoslem. Furious at his father's property being confiscated bythe Sultan, he escaped to his native home, and, seizing uponKroia, resisted all attacks, till Mohammed II. concluded peace,and made him Governor of the district in 1461. Three yearsafterwards, he again declared war against the Osmanlis, havingbeen incited to do so by the Venetians. Twelve years after hisdeath, in 1466, the Osmanlis succeeded in gaining possession ofKroia, which has ever since been in their hands, and, as anatural consequence, has fallen to ruin.The valley of Oros (18 miles distant) , commences here, it is amost romantic gorge, or dell, entirely closed in by toweringprecipices, almost meeting at the top in some places.Leaving Kroia, the road winds down the barren mountains,and then enters upon a forest, where we come to a khan, and,turning to the L., follow a broad valley for five hours, toTIRANA (8 hours from Allessio, direct) , a small town, with twopicturesque mosques, and several khans.From here, the road winds over a series of hills for threehours, when we ford the river Arseni, past the village of364 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Nojitjewo, and then, again traverse the broad undulating valleyfor two hours, when the mountains become higher, and wealternately ascend and descend for four hours, when we arrive,through the valley of a tributary of the Skumbi, at the town ofELBASSAN (10 hours' from Tirana: population, 3,000) ,situated on a tributary, and in the plain of the Skumbi, theancient Genusus, amid the luxuriant groups of olive, plane, andfig-trees. It is the ancient Bassania of the Romans, who builtan aqueduct from a spring in the mountains, some distance off,of which the ruins are still extant. The whole town is surrounded by medieval fortifications; a deep moat and highthick wall forming a square, each corner of which, as well asthe four gates, is defended by towers.An old church, within the town, was the " Rütli," ofAlbania; for, within its walls, Scanderbeg, and eight otherchieftains, swore by the Evangelists, whilst breaking theirscabbards, that they would never sheath sword as long as aTurk remained in the country. Consequently, their swords arestill unsheathed.On leaving Elbassan, our road lies through a magnificentavenue of plane- trees, and then through the lovely valley, sownwith groves of olive and fig-trees, the mountain sides clothedwith forest, and past many an hamlet, half concealed by itsgroves and orchards, till the valley gradually contracts, and weenter upon a narrow defile, with barely room for the path andthe river. In two hours' time, we come to a bridge of twelvearches, the centre one pointed, and 45 feet above the water.An inscription says that it was repaired by Kurd Pasha. Itis an ancient narrow structure, and without parapets.Crossing this bridge over the Skumbi we ascend through aseries of wild, gloomy ravines, and gorges for about 3 hours,until we arrive at a Khan, and then traversing the hills on theL. bank ofthe Skumbi, at the villages of Dschurad, and then atKukussa, where we pass the night. On leaving, we descendinto the valley of the Skumbi again, which we cross over a stonebridge (new) and again ascend a series of lower hills, and thenROUTE XL.- CATTARO TO MONASTIR. 365through a wild barren defile and the pass of Keupris, to the town ofUSTURDSCHE OF STRUGA (9 hours from Kukussa) , a small townon the Black Drin. Here the Lake ofOchrida and the ImperialFisheries are situated, yielding an annual profit of 100,000piastres.We cross the Drina and skirt the shores of the lake, crossinganother small stream just before Podmolje, across beautifullygreen meadows to the town ofOCHRIDA (8 miles from Struga) , population, 4,000.The ancient Akris, on the immediate shore and round thefoot of Mount Piera, crowned by the ruins of the citadel . It issaid to have been founded by Cadmus, and claims the honourof being the birthplace of the Emperor Justinian , who occasionally resided here and embellished it with various buildings,of which the Church of St. Sophia alone remains intact; it isused as a military depôt, and contains some admirably carvedcolumns, evidently dating from the Grecian times.Ochrida has always been an important spot, commanding as itdoes the approach to the defiles leading into the interior, and thehetrogenous style of its fortifications, bearing traces of theRomans in an inscription over the chief gate, and of theByzantines, Goths, and Crusaders, Bulgarians and Servians, inthe parts they respectively added . The town is 1,800 feet above the sea.The Lake of Ochrida is a beautiful crystal sheet of water andthe Lychnis of the ancient Greeks. It abounds in fish, especiallysalmon-trout, and is said to communicatewiththe Lake of Presba,which we shall notice hereafter. It is 20 miles long, and 7miles broad in its widest part. The mountains slope graduallytowards it from a height of 4,000 feet, and almost at the end, onthe E. bank, lies the monastery of Schir Naoun (The Holy Nun) .It was founded under Justinian, who presented it with extensiveestates , and accorded it various privileges, which Mohammed II.confirmed on condition of their establishing a hospital in somepart ofthe monastery for a certain number of invalids, no matterof what persuasion, who were to be taken care of by the monks.366 GUIDE TO TURKEY.They generally have between 50 and 60 patients , and the number of the monks is about the same. They are highlyesteemed even by the Moslems, and are frequently visited byBeys and Pashas ofdistinction, who come there to recover theirhealth. It is well worth a visit, and can be reached either byboat or a 6 hours' ride.Within two hours after leaving Ochrida, we commence theascent of the Pindus, the top of which we reach in aboutanother two hours. Magnificent view. Then descendingpast the small village of Petrina, on our R. we come to thelittle town ofRESNA, about three miles distant from the Lake ofPresba, andsituated on a small river falling into it. Traversing the plain,we enter a savage defile, along which we continue pastBolinza, and Pradintol on our L., following the course of thefoaming Dragor, to the village of Magarova on the R., whencea ride of eight miles brings us toMONASTIR. (See page 258).ROUTE XLI. -MONASTIR TO SALONIKI. 367ROUTE XLI.Monastir to Saloniki via Edessa.MONASTIR TO FLORINA (see Route XVIII, page 260) .From Florina, or Filrina, a three hours' ride brings us toBanitza, on the hill slope to our L., a port station, and townletof about 300 houses. It possesses a fine large khan. Passinga mezar, or tomb (empty) , mile further on, arrive at the hamlet of Tcherowa, where we turn off through the valley, on the L.,and, after a ride of seven miles, arrive at the Djami, orMosque of Ostrova, on the lake of the same name, the ancientLacus Begorrites, surrounded by bleak, barren mountains. Themosque is built on a projecting tongue of land, which, at a distance, seems like an island . Three-quarters of a mile beyond,we enter the town ofOSTROVA (22 miles from Florina) .The lake contains an abundance of fish, which forms the chiefstaple of the villages on its shores, each of them possessing several small boats. The fishing grounds vary, according tothe wind and weather; sometimes they are on one, sometimes cnthe other side.Leaving Ostrovo, we ascend the mountains, bordering thelake in a N. E. direction, and then, descending into a narrow,but well cultivated valley, arrive atVODENA, the ancient Edessa.It is most beautifully situated on the sides ofamountain amphitheatre, covered with luxuriant forests and teeming withsparkling springs, falling down on all sides in graceful cascades.This abundance ofwater has given to the town itsnameofVodena,from the Slavonic voda, water. When the weather is fine, the gulfof Saloniki is clearly distinguished, and, what with the mosques368 GUIDE TO TURKEY.and minarets, the neat white houses, half concealed in thevaried foliage, Vodena is one of the loveliest spots on earth.The ancient Edessa was the oldest capital of Macedonia, and,when the Macedonian Kings had taken up their residence atPella, was chosen by them as their necropolis. There are somesepulchres cut in the rock here, but whether they are the Royaltombs or not is uncertain. From its position on the ViaIgnatia, connecting the gulf of Therma, or Saloniki, with theAdriatic, ofwhich Strabo speaks, Geog. lib. vii. , also mentioning Edessa and Pella,66· εἰς Εδεσσαν καὶ Πελλαν μεχρί Θεσσαλονικείας,”it was always of importance, under the Roman and ByzantineEmpire. Still, there are not many remains of antiquity, andnone of them of any interest, except to the student. FromVodena, the road leads through the well-wooded valley, andcrossing (7 miles ) the Mavronero, or Karesmak, the Lydius ofthe ancients, traverses the plains of Macedonia, till we arrive atJENIDSCHE (14 miles),A neat little town, with its three minarets gleaming amidst thefoliage. The tobacco grown here is considered the best in allTurkey. The khan is very fair. In the vicinity lies the siteof Pella, the ancient residence of the Macedonian kings, andbirth-place of Alexander the Great.Leaving Jenidsche, we pass between the villages of Neochorion the R., between the Mavronero (Lydius) and the Vardar(Axius) . Then comes Alakilissa (7 miles) , nine miles beyondwhich we cross the Vardar over a long, wooden bridge, andthen, riding through an undulating, uninteresting country, passthe celebrated Tumulus supposed to have been thrown over thedead that fell here in the battle fought by the Thessalonicansagainst Philip II. of Macedonia. It measures 858 feet in circumference, and 120 feet in height, and is perfectly conical.We now enter Saloniki, the ancient Thessalonica, and stillmore ancient Therma. See Route XVIII, page 267.ROUTE XLII. -TOUR OF MOUNT ATHOS. 369ROUTE XLII.Tour of Mount Athos.IN order to ensure a good reception at the Monasteries atMount Athos, a letter of introduction is necessary from theGreek Patriarch at Constantinople, which is easily obtainedthrough the Ambassador's mediation.The Peninsula, on which Mount Athos is situated, is knownin the whole of the Levant as the " Ayɩov " Opos, or Monte Santo,the "Holy Mount." It is 38 miles long, andof an average breadthoffour to five miles. The hills in the N., not more than 600feet high, gradually increase to mountains of 1,200—1,800 feet,culminating in the white limestone peak of Mount Athos itself6,560 feet high, and partially covered with dark forests . ThePelasgians who inhabited this peninsula in the earliest timesgave way to various Hellenic colonies, such as Acanthus, Dium,Apollonia, &c. The first Monastery is said to have been foundedby the Empress Helena, whose example was followed by emperors and princes of the empire, and the kingdom of Bulgaria,Servia, and Bosnia, some of whom even came to end their dayson the Holy Mount. These Monasteries have always beenrespected by the Turks; only one single Moslem, an officer ofthe Porte, lives on the whole peninsula, who represents hisgovernment at the Holy Synod of Karyes, the chief town of allthe monastic establishments. The synod consists of twentydelegates, one from each Monastery, three sub- presidents . andone chief president, “ ὁ πρῶτος τοῦ "Αθωνος, ” the First of Athos,and conducts the worldly affairs of the Monasteries in their biseminal meetings, in which the amount of tribute to be paid to BB370 GUIDE TO TURKEY.the Sultan is apportioned among the whole according to theirmeans. Anyone can become a monk, and is admitted into thecommunity on the payment of about £15, and is exempted fromperforming manual labour, which is executed by the κoσμikoiwhich, freely translated, means a factotum or Jack-of-all-trades.The new arrival, on payment of his £15, receives the title of ,dókiμos, novice, or apprentice to the honourable trade of monk,in which capacity he remains for three years, when he takes thevows of chastity and obedience to his Superior, and is rewardedby the title of kaλóyepos, or “ Good old man, " which perhapsis chosen in order to be in strict accordance with the first vow.However, to avoid temptation in any shape, no female from thespecies hom*o down to Felis is allowed to set foot on Agios Oros.But:-"That this rigid law is infringed by certain small and activecreatures, who have the audacity to bring their wives and largefamilies within the very precincts of the Monastery, I soonfound to my sorrow, and heartily regretted that the stern monastic law was not more rigidly enforced. "-CURZON, Visits toMonasteries in the Levant.Very few of the Kaloyers aspire to the higher rank of iepeûsor priest, as the religious duties are very heavy. Ten of the Monasteries are κοινόβια, the remaining ten ἰδιόῤῥυθμα. Inthe former, the Abbot or Igumenos, retains his post for life, andis elected by the Synod of Karyes, and approved of by thePatriarch of Constantinople. In the latter, the Superior iselected annually, and only concerns himself with the administration of the property. The total number of monks, all of theorder of St. Basil, on Mount Athos, is about 3,000, who, on thewhole-in fact by far the greater part-are a most ignorant,bigoted set. In the celebrated libraries there is scarcely anything left ofany note. They have been rifled from time to timeby various travellers, who have thereby drawn down upon themselves the pious wrath of such persons that cannot understandhow an MS. of any great historical value, belongs to civilisation,and not to an ignorant monk, who does not even know how toread his own Classic Greek.ROUTE XLII.-TOUR OF MOUNT ATHOS. 371The direct route to Mount Athos is that by way of Galatistaand Poligyro, but whoever once visits the Chalcidean Peninsula,will doubtlessly make the complete tour of it.We start from Saloniki ( see page 267) , and traversing a poor,uncultivated country, with here and there a miserable hamletand a farm or two, belonging to the Monasteries, we arrive atPinaka (9 hours from Saloniki) , a village occupying the site ofthe ancient Potidea, and situated on the narrow neck of landconnecting the peninsula of Kassandra (the ancient Pallene),with the mainland. A half-ruined wall or dyke with towersstretches across the isthmus, from the Gulf of Kassandra to theGulfof Saloniki. Many traces of the old Hellenic masonry areto be seen in this wall, recalling the time when Potidea wasone of the chief and immediate causes of the PeloponnesianPotidea had originally been a Corinthian colony, andtired of the Athenian yoke, declared against Athens on a troopof soldiers having been sent to its assistance under Aristeusfrom Corinth, whereon the Athenians blockaded it by land andby sea, when the war was kindled, which lasted from 431 to421 B. C.war.Potidea was afterwards destroyed by Philip of Macedon, butrebuilt by Kassander, from whom the peninsula takes itspresent name. The site of the ancient harbour is now occupiedby a swamp.Leaving Pinaka and ascending a height through bush andbrushwood we gain a fine view of the Gulf of Kassandra(Toronæic Gulf) and Mount Athos on the L., and on the R.,over the woods of Pallene and the Gulf of Saloniki.come toWe thenAthyto, the ancient Aphytis (2 hours from Pinaka) , of whichthere are still some remains. From here we proceed toKalandria, also called Posidio, from the ancient Posidium,on the ruins of which stands the modern town.Returning to Pinaka, we skirt the sea shore for about 5miles toHagios Mamas, a small village hidden amongst its groves,occupying the site of the ancient Alynthas, the capital ofBB 2372 GUIDE TO TURKEY.Chalcis . Just before entering the village there is an altar stillupright, but half buried in the ground, and behind the village stand four towers connected by as many walls, where there aremany ancient remains, such as broken columns, etc. , of which,no doubt, the general tourist is heartily satiated by this time.Five miles further on, at the head of the gulf, comesMolvro, the ancient Mekybernas.Turning N. from here we come toNothing of interest.Poligyro, (7 miles from Molvro) , which was formerly thechief seat of the gold and silver mining, in Chalcis.Hence we ride E. to Keratia (5 miles from Poligyro), pastRevaniko, and through a well-wooded country into a valleyshut in with precipitous and forest- covered rocks, in which liesthe village of Gomati, and then descend into a basin surroundedby low, rounded hills, and a little lower down arrive at thevillage ofErisso, the ancient Acanthus, on the Strymonic Gulf, Gulfof Rendina, or Gulf of Orfano. *Fine view. In the W. distancewe see Mounts Olympus and Ossa; to the S. the peak of MountAthos and the Aegean sea; in the N. the range of the Pangaeus,and in the W. the Island of Thasos.“ In many dimpling smiles the Ægean curl'd;Bees murmur'd o'er Hymettus' purple flowers;And memory of an angel- haunted world,That bloom'd ere rose the Babylonian towersStirr'd the heart deeply when on falling showersShone the soft rainbow, and the moon's calm lightFlooded the darkness-fled the Olympian powersBut hosts of brilliant stars ruled tranquil night,And beauty fresh as at the world's birth gleam'd in sight."Doom ofthe Gods of Hellas. -ARTHUR H. W. INGRAM.The village is crowned by the ruins of a medieval castle, builton the remains of an ancient Hellenic structure; the ruins ofthe harbour are also sufficiently preserved to show that this was the site of Acanthus, which Xerxes chose for one of his stationson his expedition against Greece.Here the traveller can either at once commence his tour ofROUTE XLII.-TOUR OF MOUNT ATHOS. 373the Monasteries or proceed direct to Karyes, which we shall do ,and then describe the Monasteries one after the other, beginningin the N.E., and terminating in the N.W. of the peninsula.Leaving Erisso we pass a farm ( ½ hour) , on the ridge of hillsseparating the plain of Erisso from the valley of Provlaka,through which Xerxes cut his celebrated canal (480 B.C.) , tracesof which still exist; it was 7,600 feet long and 50 feet wide.Riding for about 3 hours past various farms or Metochia, wearrive at the foot of a range of hills, stretching across theisthmus from sea to sea, separating the holy soil of MountAthos from profaner ground. This ridge we ascend by a zigzagpath which is defended by sentinels, who have to guard the holymount from the assaults of robbers and the no less dangerousattacks of Eve's daughters, and all the rest of feminine creation.We now pass through a beautiful country, intersected bydeep ravines and plashing brooklets, the higher slopes clothedwith the dark balsamic pine, the valleys dotted with groves of olive, orange, nut, and fig- trees, and here and there an oak orspreading beach. Hazelnut- bushes and vineyards also abound,and thus we ride through this idyllic scenery for 3 hours, till we arrive at the townKARYES, or KARYAE (1,000 inhabitants) , situated betweenbeautifully wooded hills, the residence of the Turkish Agha, andthe seat of the Synod, with a lovely view of the sea.The Synod is held in a large saloon, with a divan runninground the four walls, on three sides of which sit the delegatesfrom the various Monasteries, whilst the secretary and otherofficials occupy the fourth. The Church of Protaton is theoldest building on the whole peninsula, and well merits a visit .Karyes is to Mount Athos, what Bethlehem is to Jerusalem;the whole population is engaged in carving mementos of theholy places, chiefly of cypress wood, and in printing primitiveviews of the chief points of interest.374 GUIDE TO TURKEY.THE MONASTERIES.1-KILIANDRIONis the northernmost Monastery on the E. side of the peninsula,and signifies " The Thousand Lions." It lies in a valley about2 miles from the shore, at the foot of pine- clothed mountains,with a foaming brook running near it. The whole building istriangular in shape, the apex towards the mountain side. It wasfounded by two contrite sinners from Servia, but its chief benefactor was King Stephen of Servia, a son-in-law of the EmperorRomanus. At present, it contains about 40 monks, all Serviansand Bulgarians, though it was originally intended for 1,000,each a lion of Christendom, capable of holding his own againstthe arch-lion, who goes about roaring, etc. The library consistsmerely of Russian or Bulgarian books of no great value.Formerly it contained a splendid MS. New Testament, writtenin golden semi-uncial on white vellum, and much resembling theSinai MS. It was presented by the Emperor AndronicusComnenus in 1182. There is a splendid chalice of red-veinedmarble set in gold in the Sacristy, which was a present from oneof the Byzantine rulers. The ancient chronicles, grants, andfirmans of various Greek, Servian, and Turkish sovereigns, arevery interesting. About 3 miles further on, passing the ruins ofthe Monastery of St. Basil, we arrive at2-ESPHIGMENOU,jammed in by three hills in a narrow valley, and on the mouthof a torrent falling into the sea. Part of it was destroyed bythe fall of some rocks overhanging it, and since then the waveshave been doing their utmost to undermine it. Still it stands,one of the most ancient on the whole peninsula. It was founded442 by the Empress Pulcheria, and her brother Theodosius theYounger, who died here, 460. The library contains nothing ofany particular interest; but amongst the relics, the monks showa beautiful antique cross, set with diamonds and other preciousgems.ROUTE XLII.-TOUR OF MOUNT ATHOS. 375From here we have a ride of 2 hours to the Monastery of3.-BATOPEDION,- once,"The Field of Thorns. " It was originally founded by Constantine the Great; in the 5th century, Julian the Apostatedestroyed it, whereupon Theodosius the Great rebuilt it,through the circ*mstance which gave it its namewhilst cruising round Mount Athos, his son, Arcadius, felloverboard, but was saved by the Virgin, who bore him safelyto the shore, and laid him under a thornbush (Báros) . After theMonastery of Laura, it is the largest and richest on MountAthos, and is more like a medieval castle, with its walls, towers,and turrets, than a peaceful monkish retreat. It is situated onthe hill side, not far from the sea, from which it is separatedby a series of sloping hills, covered with orange and olivegroves. The Emperor, John Cantacuzene, died here as ahermit, and in the portico are the tombs of two " Dives,"Antonius and Nicolaus, who restored the monastery, and, as areward, were buried here.The church contains many interesting relics, among whichare a portrait of the Empress Theodosia, and some otherpictures which were brought from St. Sophia, when Constantinople fell into the hands of the Osmanlis. The library isvery extensive, but does not contain anything of very greatvalue. The greatest relic of all in the place is one of thegirdles ofthe Virgin Mary, but which modern sanatory regulations have greatly reduced in value; for, when the plagueused to rage one half of it was sent to heal those smitten withthe epidemic, who, on touching it, which they were allowed todo at a certain price-were instantly cured. Those good days-for the monks-are past.The cellars are most extensive, and contain wine barrels,almost rivalling the tun of Heidelberg in size, immense storesof corn and hogsheads of oil kept in marble sarcophagus-likevessels.Upon a hill in the vicinity stand the extensive and romanticruins of an academy, which was founded in the last century by a376 GUIDE TO TURKEY.certain Eugenio Bulgari, a Corfiote , who attracted a number ofscholars from all parts of the Levant, by his learning and knowledge. But learning is not the forte of the general run ofthe Greek monks, and they so conspired against and worriedhim, that he was obliged to give up his establishment.On leaving Batopedion, we pass the ruins of the academyjust mentioned, with its viaduct of fourteen arches in a doublerow, one over the other, and, in about 21 hours, we arrive at4.-KUTLUMUSI,close to Karyes (see page 373) , one of the smallest monasteries,and founded, in 1,300, by Constantine Kutlumusch, a relative ofone ofthe Seldschuk Sultans, who, on the death of his mother,a Christian, turned hermit and ended his days here. It is asquare building, with cloisters running all round the innercourt, in the centre of which, as at Rilo (see page 249) , thechurch stands.From here we turn again to the E. coast, to5.-PANTAKRATOR.the Monastery of the Almighty, the Omnipotent, founded inthe thirteenth century, by Alexius, the general of Michael Palæologus, who recaptured Byzance from the Latins. It containsnothing of any special interest.One hour's distance from here stands the monastery of6.-STAVRONIKETES,built in 1540 to the honour of Him who conquered " Death andHell on the Cross, " by Jeremiah, Patriarch of Constantinople.Built like an old feudal castle upon a towering crag, it almostoverhangs the sea, and appears of much older date than thatascribed to it. There are several valuable books in the library,which has nearly 900 volumes; amongst others the entire worksof St. Chrysostomos, and various illuminated MSS.From here we have another hour's ride to7.-IVORON.ἩΜονὴ τῶν Ιβήρων,founded by some rich Georgians (Iberians, whence the name) ,ROUTE XLII .-TOUR OF MOUNT ATHOS. 377during the reign of Basilius II. , 975-1025) . It is very large,and, like Batopedion, with its walls and towers, looks like afortress commanding the sea. The library contains several important Georgian MSS. , amongst a collection of 5,000 books and 2,000 MSS.Then, after passing a lovely cascade, we come to8.-PHILOTHEUS,at a distance of 3 miles from the sea, and surrounded by wallsin the midst of a forest-glen. The churchis interesting from itsgrotesque frescoes .Hence to9.—KARAKALLus,perched up like a castle upon the rocks with a row of projecting rooms, to the L. of the great tower, built of wood, like thequaint old wooden galleries of Nürnberg. As usual, the churchstands in the centre of the courtyard, and contains two valuableancient crucifixes set in jewels and gold, and said to have beenpresented by Emperor John Zimisces.From here we have a ride through the most lovely scenery ofgorges, ravines, glens, and forests, and in four hours' timearrive at10.-ST. LAura.The largest Monastery on Mount Athos, enclosed by highwalls, a most romantic conglomeration of architectural fanciesand caprice, on the southernmost point of Mount Athos. Originally it was the hermitage of a certain Athanasius, whichgradually increased to the dignity of a Monastery, which wasextensively endowed by Nicephorus Phocas. The only entranceis by a long winding vaulted passage, which is protected bythree iron gates.The church contains many curious pictures, one said to be bySt. Luke. The frames are richly set with jewels. Portraits ofAndronicus Palæologus and his wife . The * Shrine, containinga piece of the Holy Cross, is a present of Emperor NicephorusIt is of pure gold, about 12 feet high, and set with a double row378 GUIDE TO TURKEY.of diamonds and other precious stones, all in the Byzantinestyle. The library contains about 5,000 volumes.From here Mount Athos is generally ascended, taking a dayto the summit and back. A chapel stands on the top in whichthe Transfiguration is annually celebrated on the 18th of August.Now turning to the N. on the W. side of Athos, throughmuch more gloomy and savage scenery, we pass the church ofSt. Anna, lying in a rocky gorge, high above the sea, containinga richly-jewelled silver shrine with the foot of the Saint, whichis so much venerated that it can only be shown by a priest infull canonicals . In 5 hours from St. Laura, we arrive at11.-HAGIOS PAOLOS,founded originally for Servians and Wallachians by a certainBieloban, Hospodar of Wallachia, but mostly frequented byGreeks from the Ionian Isles, many of whom speak Italian andsome few English.12.-HAGIOS DIONYSIUS,founded on the representations of the Archbishop Dionysius, ofTrapezunt, by Alexius III. in 1375, of whom there is a portrait.The church contains many valuable relics, and a head of St.John the Baptist-a duplicate of the one at Genoa, containedin a most beautiful shrine in the shape a Byzantine church.The library contains over 1,000 MSS.13.-HAGIOS GREGORIOS,founded in the 14th century, under John Cantacuzene.14.-SIMOPETRAwas, as its name denotes, founded by a certain Simeon on thetop of the craggy peak, 600 feet above the sea, where thepresent building stands, separated by a chasm from the rest ofthe mountain, which, however, is bridged over by a duct in adouble row of arches connecting the monastic eyrie with theexternal world. Three projecting wooden galleries run roundthe building at a height of nearly 80 feet from the ground,giving the whole a most venturesome appearance. The libraryis small and of no great value.ROUTE XLII.-TOUR OF MOUNT ATHOS. 37915.-XEROPOTAMOS,founded by the Empress Pulcheria, and deriving its name fromthe torrent (only in summer) , which here falls into the sea whenthere is any water in it. It was founded in 920 bythe EmperorRomanus, butin the year 1526, it was destroyed by an earthquake. The church contains a piece of the Holy Cross withgems and jewels bedight.An hour's ride brings us to16.-RUSSIKON,which was founded by Catherine I. of Russia, on the site ofKing Lazar's, of Servia, for Russian monks, but is still chieflyinhabited by Greeks.17.-HAGIOS XENOPHON.“ The date and author of its foundation are wrapped inmystery " a convenient way of getting over a description—butit is true. Most likely it was built by three Hungarian Countsin 1545, who figure as its repairers. Library small.Hence, halfan hour's ride brings us to18.-DOCHEIARION,founded by a former porter at St. Laura's. Fine library.19.-CONSTAMONITES,said to have been founded by Constantine the Great. In a mostromantic position. Nothing of interest, except a grant signedby Michael Palæologus.20.-ZOGRAPHOS." The Painter." It is a large building, overlooking the Gulfof Hagion Oros, and strongly fortified . The monks are allBulgarians or Servians, and the monastery itself was founded bythree Slavonic nobles during the reign of Leo Sophos in the 9thcentury. The church is celebrated for a miraculous picture ofSt. George, so miraculous, in fact, that it painted itself, andflew from Palestine-not even carried by angels-to MountAthos, where a sceptical bishop poked his finger through it, butimmediately discovered, to his great terror, that he could not380 GUIDE TO TURKEY.withdraw it, and it had to be cut off. The hole is still there—not so the finger, which, I suggested to the Igumenon, wouldbe no small improvement. Perhaps the next traveller will findit there!From here we ride across the country through beautiful parklike scenery to the Monastery we started from, Kiliandrion, andthence to Erisso and back to Saloniki via Elerigoba and Galatista.Thus we conclude our tour of the Monasteries of MountAthos, and various questions are sure to arise. Is the secludedlife these monks lead, with its privations , on the one side—butit* absence of care on the other-a life of happiness, as happiness goes in the present days or not? Is it peace and contentment? Ninety-nine in a hundred will sneer at such a question,and talk wisely of " political economy, and the balance of labourand capital, " but a sneer does not conclude an argument—and itis a question of very great doubt, after all , whether these monksare not wiser by far than we, who accuse them of profoundignorance. Suppose they are ignorant? What then? Supposethey do only know the simple text of the Scriptures, and noneof the hairsplitting differences which have divided “ civilisationand progress into as many different sects as there arechapters in the Bible! Is Sir Mammon M'Cotton hurryingon by express, at forty miles an hour, happier than any of thePatriarchs sauntering after their herds? Hydraulic pressesdon't make him wiser or better-rather the contrary. Steamengines have not made us more loving; they have helped us tomake cannon to slaughter each other, and the only reason wedon't do so to the extent of ancient days, is , that we are toocareful of our own skins, and think, that in this respect, thecommandment, " do unto others as you would have others dounto you," may have some reason in it. It is true, knowledgeis a most estimable thing. Knowledge is Power; but, whoever said that Power is Happiness? With Diocletian we feelinclined to say, "If thou could'st see the cabbages we plantedwith our own hands, thou would'st not advise the resumption ofgovernment. " Therefore, do not despise the ignorance of theROUTE XLII.--TOUR OF MOUNT ATHOS . 381monks; in their case, it would indeed be " folly to be wise. "For, to live contented, it is necessary to be either a genius or anignoramus. Hence we find very few who advocate a quiet lifeof content.The monks of Athos may well be described by the followingode:-Avete SolitudinisClaustrique mites incolaeQui pertulistis impios Coetus furentis tartari.Gemmas et auri ponderaEt dignitatum culminaCalcastis et foedissima,Quae mundus offert, gaudia.Vobis olus cibariaFuere vel legumina,Potumque lympha praebuit,Humusque dura lectulum.Vixistis inter aspides,Saevisque cum draconibusPortenta nec teterrimaVos terruere dæmonum.Rebus procul mortalibus Mens avolabat fervidaDivumque juncta coetui Hærebat inter sidera!As long as this remains a true picture, well and good, but alittle wisdom is a dangerous thing, and if it does once creep inamong the monks, the devil creeps in with it and soon establishesa fruitful colony.Constantinople to Smyrna and Alexandria, Palestine andSyria (see Route XLIII. et seq. , vol. 2 of Bradshaw's Guideto the Turkish Empire.

INDEX TO VOLUME I....... ... ... ... ......AAar AarauAarburg Ab- dere, Valley ofAche, Valley of AbydosAchyrkoi AcsAdelsberg Adonny Adria ...Adrianople EsyetesAiblingAggstein, Castle ofa*ghatschlykoi...Aighir Oghlu Dagh Aix-les-BainsAjaccio Akbunar Akhissar Ak- Palanka......PAGE Almissa38, 55 Alpignano 55 Alpolu 38 Alseno191 Altdorf 138 Alt Moldova 92 Alt- Ofen273 Amberg 148 Ambérieu79 Ambras, Castle of150 Amphipolis94 Amstag 197 Anadoli Hissar137 Anadoli Kawaglu 124 Ancona157 Andancette 91 Andeer... ...197 Andermatt (Ital. Orsera)PAGE... 353... 107... 200... 11140 152 14969 10592... 27040 162 158... 102 11659... 42 105 Andernach ... 27 143 Andro ... 136 157 Ansbach ... ... 66363 Apatin 150Akropolis AktaschAlakilissa Alban-Koi Albasha... ... 136 Araba Bergas... ... 368 Araino 261 Arcole 190 Ardöd280 Appenweier142 Aquileja8152 2009349 150 Albula AlessandriaAlessio AlexinitzaAlgiers... ... 279 Arona... ... Alintche ... ...57 Argegno 110 Arles362 Arnaout- Koi .126 Aroschka 258 Arzer Palanka... 63 119 163... 4.4... 57... 153381 INDEX.Aschach ...Aschaffenburg Ascona AsmannshausenAsperg AstiPAGE123 Bedjova 65 BegiPAGE 254 192 82 Belchen 3731 Belgirate 4443 Belgrade 151110 Belitzakoi 253 Atherida 266 Bellaggio 63Athyto 371 Bellano 62Atzwang Augsburg93 Bellinzona85 Bergamo4247Avigliana 107 Bertschka 299Avignon 118 Beschik Tasch 165 Awret Hissar 257 Beseno, Castle of 93BBeykjos Biala ... Biberich160 18133Babenberger- Burg Babenhausen Bacheracher77 Bibigne 339 65 Biela Planina 291... 31 Bielobrdo Planina 320Badelwand ... 77 Bielovitscha ... 301Baden Bad PfaffersBaja Balievatz Balta Liman Bändlikon Banitza Bank Banovatsch:55 Bietigheim 57 Bihatsch150 Bila, Valley of 327 Bilek 161 Billai ... 56 Billai Planina261, 367 Bingen30 Bingerloch 298 Bisceglia82327 ... 302... 350 328 3283131 104Banya... Banya, Baths of 245, 257, 291 , 318 Bischofsheim 245 Bistonia 34 272Barakly 264 Bitowanjali Planina 313Barbentane 119 Bjelobrdo 291Bärenburg 59 Blagai 309Bari 104 Boara 94Barletta 101 Bobovatsch 307Basardjik Basel 193 Bodio ... 4238 Bocche di Cattaro 348 Basiasch 152 Bogut 293 BassarabaBatopedionBay ofVigoBazardjikBazarly Beaucaire BebekBeckenried Bedarrides375 Boghaly Tabia 125 Böjuk Liman 242 Bolinza264 Bologna119 Bon, Cape 163 Bonaduz 39 Bonn117 Boppard181 Bogatitzka 308 138... 158 366... 96 126582529INDEX. 385Boradello, Tower of Borgo Erizzo ... Borgone ...Borgo San Domingo... Borke ...Bornhofen ... Borromean Islands Borusch Bos BurunBosna Serai Botzen......Botzen, Valley of Bourg... BramansBramant d'EssilonBrannenburgh BranzollPAGE64 Burgbernheim 339 Bussoleno107 Bussovatsch 111 Buttrio316 Buyuk Ayan 29 Buyuk Betshik 44 Buyukdere183 Buyuk- Kuru- dere 139 Buyuk- Oba287 Buyuk Obai 93 Buyuk Tschekmedji93 Bystritz Koi ... 105 106PAGE

66 107 30552266 270 159 189... 258... 190... 201 253C.106 Cadenabbia 63 91 Calamatta 346 93 Calle ... 339 Braubach Brenner 29 Calliano 9392 Camerlata 64Brenta 49 Campo Formio 52 Brescia 47 Candia 145 Brettanonk 181 Cannero 43 Bretten 82 Cannobbio 43Brey 29 Cannstadt 83 Brindisi 104 Canossa 113Brione 335 Canova 58Brissago 43 Capellen 29 Brixen 92 Cape Burun 138Brixlegg 91 Cape Malla 136 Brod 299 Cape St. Vincent 125Bruck...Brugg... Bruhl... Brundel Brunn...

Broni .Brsa PalankaBrstowitz BruchsalBrunnenBua Island Buccari Buda ...Bugoino BukovaBukovitza, Valley of BurgauBurgas... ...278 Carlowitz.37, 81 Carthage 77 Casaisa 55 Cassano25 Castelbarco 325 Castel Franco 76 Castel Guelfo 39 Castelnovo 340 Castel Novo323 Castiggio 149 Catania 356 Cattaro260 Cattolica307 Caub 85 Cavalla157 Cesena110 Capori 287281 Caprera 140 151 126524793114 111... 321 348 110 141 349 10131 271... 99C C386 INDEX.PAGE PAGECerigo ... 136 Demirdjiler ... 243

Chalkaly ... ... 280 Demir Hissar ... 253Chambery ... 105 Demir Kapu 185,248 Chaskoi ... 196 Dere- Oba, Valley of ... 192 Chasse ... 116 Derotsa ... ... 258 Chateau de Crussol Chateau de Ponsas ... ... 116 Dervio ... ... 116 Derwentschi61... ... ... ... 274 Chatellon Chettos ... ... ... Chiavenna Chur Cisto Cittanova... ...ClissaCoblenzCodroipo Colonna, Island... ... ... ... ... ... ...ColicoCologne 24 DimotikaCollegno ... 107 Dinitza Comacina, Island ... Combur ComoConegliano105 Desenzano201 Despoda Dagh ...59, 60 Deutsch- Altenburg 57 Deutz.... 354 Devil's Ladder 103 Dewelu343 Dieburg 27 Dielhof 52 Dietikon 63 Dilmen Mahalesi 61 Dimitor Planina... ... 48 242... 147... 25... 31 27465... 8555 192329... ... 273... 264ConstamonitesConstantinople ... CorfuCormons CornoCorreggio Courtheson Crau ... Cremona......63 Dinkelscherben349 Dionysius, Monastery of 63 Divazze52 Djirdjiler379 Djumaa 139 Dobol 136 Dobnitza... 85... 265... 79 262 253... ... ... 300... ... ... ... ... 257 52 Dobrata ... ... ... 34952 Dobra Voda ... ... 354113 Dobro Koselo 361117 Dobropolje ... ... 308Daimushlar ... ...Dalya DanazlarDarmstadtDaubDebualtsa DedelerCurzolaCyzicumDardanellesDDardanos, Ruins of119 Dobrunj 47 Docheiarion344 Doghatsch 139 DolabDolnja-Tuzla Domaso Domleschg- Thal 191 Doncagne 150 Dorio ... 242 Dormitor 136 Dotis ... 138 Douare 35 Drachenfels361 Dragotza 186 Dragusa Planina 271 Drama... 320... 379 196181 2986158... 358... 61... 294 148 35426 305 356... ... 271Della Pietra, Castle of 93 Dreisam ... 37INDEX. 387Dreisam, Valley of Drenovitza DrienoDrinatscha, Valley of Drugevatz Dschengelli Koi...PAGE 312 361 Faenza 350 Faido ...286 Falkenburg 279 Fanaraki 163 FanoF... ...PAGE984231157 101 Dschurad DuchieDumbowitzaDuraly Durlach......Durrenstein, Castle of Duvan KoiDuvno, Plateau ofEbersbach ... EbersdorfEfferding Egina, Island of Ehrenbreitstein EhrenfelsE... ... 364 Fardun... 353 Fasana ... 153 Fasana, Straits of ... 197 Fedirly ... 37 Felsberg ... 124 Feridschik... ... ... 59 104... 335... 262... 57... 273... ... ...242 Feriolo 356 FerraraFeysin Fichtenstein 83 Filibdscheh 147 Filibe 123 Fiorenzuola4394 116 122 271... 193 111 142 Fischbach 9127 Fisch-am- End 147... 31 Fiume 322Eleuthero- KhorioEngelhardzellEhrenthal ...Eichberg ... Elæus ... Elassona ... ... ElbassanElerigobaEllivitch EltvilleEmirgian Ems ...Engers EnnsErisso Erkeneh ... Eski Baba Eski Erekli ...Eskihissalyk Esphigmenou, Monastery Esslingen ... Este ... Estressin ...30 Fiume Latte, Waterfall of ... 62 77 Florina 260137 Fluelen 39... 262 Foggia 364 Fojnitza 380 Foldvar104 303... 150... 266 Forte San Nicola ... 343... ... ... ... ... 261 Forum Papilii 33 Fotscha161 Franzensfeste... 99295, 300 ... ... 92... ... 57 Fratteli ... 126... ... 122 Freiburg ... 37... ... ... 27 Freienstein ... 124... 72 Fuentes 61... ... 372 200 G. 200274 GabellaEtang de Berre Etna, Mount Etoile...357 137 Gabran 255 374 Gabrowa 186, 244, 254 83 Galata94 Galatista 139 380 116 Galatz 155 119 Galito 126141 Galivaggio117 Gallipoli60 138cc 2388 INDEX.GedinaGeisslingen Gemunden Germetz Planina Gersau GesenizzePAGE 255 Graveson 83 Greifenstein Castle65 Greinberg 328 Greiner Schwall Rapids ...PAGE 119...124... 123 12339 Greiselitza 309353 Grignana 52Gibraltar Gionovich Giornico126 Grödenerbach, Falls of 93349 Grossgerau 3442 Grosshesselohe 91Giovenazza Gitana Giuliana104 Grubyan 24662 Grünau, Rapids of 122358 Gubedjie 156Giupan 346 Guleli 180Giurgewo 153 Gulf ofArcadia 136Gladowa 281 Gul-Tekne, Plain of... 188Glasinatsch 287, 296 Gül Tschesme 181Glibowatz 278 Gülvashtchi 270Glish*tchGliva PlaninaGloggnitz Glogovan Mountain Godesberg Goini Vacouf Gök-Su Gola Planina... Golden HornGölhissar Golia Planina GolubatzGolubingeGolubuje350 Gumurdschina 77 Gutchevo 312 Gutenfels256 Gümendsche .. 253 273 2853126 Gutsa... 245356 Gutschiagora ... 302 192 320 H. 139329 Habsburg 55293 Hagenbach 122281 Hagios Dionysius 378281 Hagios Gregorios 378328 Hagios Mamas 371 Gomati 372 Hagios Paolos 378Gönyö 148 Hagios Xenophon 379Göppingen 83 Haidelsheim 82 Gorazda GoriziaGornja-Tuzla... GöschenenGosting Gottweih, Monastery of Goudelsheim... Göz Tepe295 Haiduc Mahalesi52 Hainburg 298 Haldenstein 41 Hall77 Hannitsch 124 Haratcheri192147... 5792 ... 287 186 82 Harman Koi... 189261 Harmanly 197 GradiscaGradiscie Gradiska Gran Gratz ...257 Hassan Palanka 278 52 Hauenstein 38 307 Hausstein 123Gravedona148 Heidelberg 78 Heidhof61 Heigenbrücken356965INDEX. 389...Hoch- Realt Hohenems ...Hohen- Asperg, Castle of Hohenstaufen, Castle of Höllenthal Holzkirchen Horchheim ...29 Jafy-koi 247, 294 Jadovnik83 Jalikoi 37 JanlowaHeilbronnHeimberg ... ...Heisterbach, Abbey of Helfenstein, Castle ofHemetly Hersbruck Hirssawa HirzenachHissardjik... ...PAGE82 Isola Torcola 31 Isto IslandPAGE 344 33726 Ivoron Monastery 376 83 192 J. ... 68... 155 Jablanitza 313 273 29358 Jagodina 32057 Jailadschyk Dagh 197 82 Jaitze 330 16024691 Jarenje 29128 Jassenovik 293HorgenHospenthal... ...56 Jassen 350 ... 40 Jastrebatz Planina ... 291I.IbrailIgman Ikhtiman IllidscheJavornik Planina Jedikule Burun Jedikule- koi 155 Jeleschnitza... 286... 139... ... 139... 280Illok Imoschi Indschir-koi... 303 Jenidsche... 245 Jenikoi... 303 Jenischehr... 150 Jeni Kapusi .... 355 Jeni Mahalle... 368... 157, 161 136 139 196Iniada Ionian Islands Ioulis... Innsbruck161 Jeni Serai157 Jesero Rosso 145 Joros Kalesi 142 Jum Burum92 Juscha Dagh139 355... 158... 157 159IntschiIpsIpsala Irrenlohe IshlikarIskenderiaIslamly...Islarkalesi, Castle of Ismail Isola Isola Bella ... Isola Brazza Isola LacromaIsola Madre Isola PescatoriIsola Solta40 Juvalta 124273... 69156 Kadikoi... 362 Kafadar ... 262 Kailar... ...

58K139, 181 , 197 ... ...192 Kailar Ashagar 155 Kailar Yukari... 60 Kajaly 43 Kakanj... ...343 Kaklish 348 Kalafat44 Kalakia 44 Kalandria343 Kalelley... 256... 262 261261 196 307... 255... 153 266

371 163390 INDEX.KaliferKalivriPAGE191 Kifino- Selo 274 KiefersfeldenPAGE... 30991 KalliaKalolimni Kamenitza256 Kievo ... ... 308 139 Kilidaro ... 260281 Kiliandrion, Monastery of 374Kaminatza Planina 318 Kilid Bahr ... ... 138 Kaminsko ... Kandili ... 298 Kilios ... ... 157 ... ... 163 Kindberg ... ... 77Kapia KanlydscheKaprulov Derbend Kara Bab Karabunar Kara Burun ...Karadscha Dagh Kara EslikKaragikly Karajaila Dagh... 161 Kiss Kalesi297 Kisseljack139 303... 247 Kitross 266152 Klamm 77 272 Klausen 92157 Klidi-ta- Kabylia 266... 189 Klissali 270242 Klissura 291189 Klok 287280 Kludsch 329Karakallus Karandalar ... ... ... 377 Kobchelet ... ... 186... 262 Kobila-Glava Mountain ... 303Karatia Karam TepelerKaratoprak Karaula PlaninaKares Derbend... 243 Kobilova ... ... ... 281... ... 372 Koi Bashi ... ... ... 161... 192 Kokkinoplo ... ... ... 332 Kolar ...264... ... ... ... 278... 200 Kollman ... ... ... 93 Karinda ... 182 Kom ... ... 293Karlowa-altschan- owasi ... 192 Komorn ... 148 Karlsdorf ... 78 Komusina ... 301 Karlsruhe Karst ...Karyes ... ... ...Kastoria ... ... KatarinaKatharina Dagh ... ... ...Katrandji Koi Katz... ... Kaubasitza ... ... Kefili Koi Keschan Keschiak......Karybsche Kalesi Kasa Oglu Kassandra, Peninsula of37 Königsstuhl79 Königswinter373 Konjitza158 Konju... 274 Kontcha371 Kopaonik260 Kopeklukoi264, 266 Köprüdschi 262 Korito 186 Koschula 30 Kosia Glava 260 Kossowa... ... 3526 315... 298 255... 291273... 274... 350... 181... 298... ...... ... 160 Kostenja182... ... ... 245... ... ... 273 Kötschendil ... 197... 193 Kotorsko ... ... 300Ketschella ...Kezanlyk ... ... ...::Keshish Khan, Monastery of 260 Kovatsch PlaninaKesselheim 27 KozaneKetchi-Kaya-Derbend, Pass of 254 Koziak ... 188 Kremenik Mountain... 295... 262...... 257262 Kratova, Valley of ... 318... 318INDEX. 391Krempelstein, Castle of Kreshewo Kreuznach KristohorKrivaja...Kropsberg, Castle ofKrupanj Krusevich Kudareschi KufsteinKukussaPAGE... 122 Landas ... ... 314 Landskron ... 33 Langadzu260 Langatsu298 Lange Wand 92 Lapsake ...286 Laschwa, Plain of 357 Lastua Inferiore 190 Latra... ... 91 LaufKulaPlanina... Kultumusi MonasteryKumane Kum Kaleh... ...... ... ... ... ... ... Kum Kapusi ... Kuna Mountain Kura TschesmeKurshowa ... Kurshowa DaghKurschumly ... Kurtkoi Kalesi Dagh Kuru Duvan KoiKuruaghatsch Kusgundschuk KussnachtKustendji Kutschina...PAGE 19677 ... ... 270... 253 122... 138 333... 349... 266... ... 68 11413862... ... 8678364 Lavino287 Leander, Tower of 376 Lecco 186 Lechfeld 137 Leibnitz 139 Lemnos313 Lepenatz Planina 163 Lepeta Planina 258 Le Pontet ...... 136, 142 ... 291...... ... 317... ... 118... 258 Le Sarelle ... ... ... 126... 291 Lesa 44...... 197 Lesendra, Island of 242 Lesetsche 36279 196 Lesina ... ... 164 Les Roches ...343116... 56 L'Estaque 155 Letokhori182 Libanovo 270 Libanowo... 120... 265... ... 266... ... ... 253... 201 Lichtenstein 57Kydna ... ... ...Kyrderbend ... ... ...266 Liebenstein 261 Liechtenstein Lierna... 29... 76 ... ... 62LLaach Abbey, Lake of Laase ...LikowanLikowary ... ... 253... ... 253Lim, Valley of 27 Limito ... ... ... ...3184.7... 55Kutschuk- Betshik Kutschuk Tschekmedji... 78 Limmat Labeck, Castle of ... ... 78 Limonico ... Lac du Bourget ... ... 105 Linz ...6271, 123 Lachana ... ... Ladimmi ... ... Lago di Garda ... ... Lago Maggiore ... Lahn253 Liparian Isles254 Lipnik48 Lipnitza43 Lippa... 140... ...351 285... 322 ... ... ... ... 28 Lisbon ... ... ... 125 Laibach ... 78 Lisino ... ... 291 Lakatsh-St.-Saba PlaninaLa Madonna, Island of ... 294 Lissa, Island of ......340 ... 349 Lissatz ... ... ... 314392 INDEX.Littai ... Livron Lizzana, Castle ofLjesnitza Ljubusna Planina Ljupina Planina LobauLobersdorf LocarnoLodjeri Lohr Loitsch LonatoLoquicich Lorch Lorchhausen LoreleiLoreto LoriolLoro Losnitza LovrichLubereck Luca ...LucerneLüdja... Lüdja Koi LudwigsburgLugano ... Luino ... ... Lukavitsch ... Lumnitza ... Lurli ... Lussin Piccolo Lutschani LützelauLyons...MPAGE PAGE 78 Maidos 138117 Maira, Valley of 93 Majevitscha Planina... 285 Makronisi61 298 142356 Mala, Cascade of 354 328 Mala Mountains 326147 Malgara 77 Mali, Pass of 43 Mali Zwornik260 Malla, Cape 65 Manassia79 Mandello274 363 285... 142... 2836248 Mangfall ... 91... 102 Marchfeld ......355 Mannheim31 Marano31 Marbach, Village of...30 Marburg117 Marengo 43 Marina285 Marionapoli 355 Marksburg124 Markt Tüpper346 Marmora, Island of .38 Marotto 189 Marsala192 Marsbach82 Marseille43 Matapan, Cape3549 124... 78 ... 147 110 256 1852978 139 102 143 122 120136, 142 43 Matrei ... ...308 Matzen, Castle of ... ... 255 Mauensee9292... 38...57 Maulbronn337 Maus 300 Mäusethurm 56 Mauthhausen115 Mayence Medwedia8230... 32... 123... 33... 283... ......

:

Medzidzie ... ... MehlemMaçon Madalena:Madesimo, Falls of Madschar KalessiMagarova Magdalenen GrotteMagenta Magodino105 Meino... 140 Mekina 60 Melada 160 Melemes 366 Melida 79 Melk45 Menaggio 43 Mendereh296... 2644 286337 190 34672, 124::62 137INDEX. 393PAGE PAGEMenteshly Mersin Dagh... Messina, Straits of Mestre Metcovich Mewlewi Tekkiesi Mezzo...Mikro Gora... ...Milanowitz, Castle of Miljatschka Milna... MiloMilosevo, Monastery of Mirabella, Castle of......265 Mühlacker 281 Mühlhofen353 Mürzzuschlag192 Mount Garatsch 361 138 Mount Haemus 158... 140 Mualleh 19249 Mudania, Gulf of 139357 Muggia 334164 Mugrashly 183346 Muhalle 2538227 296 Mülla ... 349 343 München 86136 Münze 92294 Mürz, Valley of 7777 Miramar MishkeMixnitz... 52 Mustania 271... ... Moda Burun... Modane Modena ......361 Mutignano77 Mythenstein 139 Mytilene 106... 10339 136, 142... 114300 NModran ...Mogliano Mohacs 52 Nabresina150 Naghera Burun79 138 Mokro Mola Molefetta Molos ...287, 296 Naghera Kalesi 138104 Namasigja Tabia 138104 Narenta, Gulf of 344158 Narenta, Valley of 308 Molvro 372 Narly- Roi 273 Monastir 258 Natchalnik 285Monopoli Moss, Castle of Montebello Monte CeroMonte di Roccia Melone Montelimar ... Montelo, Cape Monte Maggiore Monza MoriMorine Planina MorterMonastir, Upper and Lower Moncalieri Monfalcone181 Nauheim 110 Necotin52 Nedavitz104 Negotin70 Negroponte 110 Neiderheimbach94 Nemanjas 107 Neochori 117 Neretwa 142 Nesso ... 335 Neubeuern64 Neuendorf 93 Neuhaus, Castle of309 Neuhaus, Village of34 282 308 256 14231 350... 368... ... 315... 63... 9127 123 123339 Neusatz 150Mossa, Mount 353 Neustadt 77 Mostar 310 Neuwied 27Mount Dinara 354 Neveseny 309 Mount Elias 265 Neveseny Plateau 309394 INDEX.Nicopoli Niederkeetert...Niederlahnstein Niederwallsee Castle... Nihor Tschiflik Nissa ...Nojitjewo Nollingen... ...NonnenthurmNonnenwerthNottwyl Novara Nova-Varos Novi- BazarNürnberg Nussdorf...... ...OOberhaus, Castle of ... OberlahnsteinOberlaibach Obermühl OberriedenOberwesel...... ......PAGE153 Oros, Valley of 29 OrphanoPAGE... ... 363... 271 28 Orsera 123 Orsova 263 Ortakoi335152, 281 ... ... 164 279 Ortenstein ... 58364 Ortona31 Osimo 147 Osmanschi26 Ospedaletto ... 38 Ossero 44 Ossintschenik Mountain 318 Ostraschnitza 291 Ostrok... 103... ... 102... 274 ... 47 337... 307 ... ... 284... 361... 367... 367 ... 104 123 325 329 18266 Ostrova, Lake of 124 Ostrova, Town of Ostuni Ottensheim 71 Ottochatz ...OberzellObirten Obla Ochn'daOffingen Oissenfurth OktchülarOlcioOlgiasca ... ... Olten... ... Oltenitza Oltre ...Olympus, Mount OosOpance ...Oporto Orange Oranido OrasatzOrebichOreovitza OrkubOrlavatschaOrmanly...28 Ottomali 79 Owansa 12356 P30 122 Padua ... ... 49... 181 Pago, Island of ... ... 337 308 Paks 365 Palesch ... 150... 28485 Pallanza 43... 66 Pangæus Mount 191 Pantakrator Monastery ... 272... 376... 62 Pantellaria ... ... ... 12661 Papasly ..38, 55 Parenzo 153 Parma... ... 196... ... 335 111339 Parona ... 93158 Pasing 81 Pasman, Island of355 Paspel's86 33958125 Passau... 117 Patine 361 Paxos ...71 301... 136356 Payerbach 358 Pechlan, Gross, and Klein77 124... 255 Peggau ... 291 Pella ... ... 287 Pera... 263 Perasto77 368... ... ... 193... 349:INDEX. 395PAGE!Perin Dagh

253 Poglizza Peristeria 273 Point CorneroPAGE 348 125Pernegg, Castle of 77 Point Europa 125Persagno ... 349 Poiras Kalesi 158Persenbeug 124 Pojana 49Pesaro 101 Pojerevatz 281Pescara 103 Pojitel 357 Pescatina 93 Pola 335Peschiera 48 Poligyro 372Pesth ... Peterwardein 149 Poljane 298PetrinaPetronell Petrovatz Petrovdo150 Polykratsia 366 Pöltschach18378147 Pontedura 337328 Pontelagoscuro 94361 Ponte Nure 111Pfaffensprung Pfalz ...Pfannberg, Castle ofPharanga Gorge Pharanga PrecipicePhilippi Philippople Philotheus ... ...40 Popova 34630, 123 Popova Luca 358 77 Pordenone 52... 263 Porta 265263 Porto Re 323 271 Postrana 353193 Posusje377 Potomje 111 Pozolengo 60 Pradintol52 Pragerhof365 Pravady... ...356346Piacenza Pianazzo ... Piave ... Piera, Mount...48 36678 ... ... ... 156 Pinaca 371 Pravista ... ... 271 Pindus, Mount ... 366 Presba, Lake of ... 365 Piræus ... 142 Preganziolo ... ... 52 Pirano 334 Prenj ... ... 312Pirot 280 Pressburg 147Pjesevina Planina Plasa Planina 286 Prevezena 183Platten See ...Plattling PletschePletvarPlochingen......Plotscha Planina PodareshePodbukovo ... Podbuchie ... Podeshet...... ...Podgaritza PodhumPodmolje Podvelez312 Priboj150 Priepolje ...70 Prilip, Valley of 351 Prionia257 Prossecco 83 Prissika Planina287 Projolatz, Lake, Village 254 Promet 361 Proszenitza 346 Provicchio 253 Provlaka...361 Psamatia Kapusi 313 Punta del Palazza365 Pydna...... 320, 326 294 257 26579 ... 328 355 256 352... ... ... 373... 339 139:::346 266 ... 309396 INDEX.RRabenstein, Castle of Radan Radowan PlaninaRadowitch Radusa Planina.........PAGE Rheinstein 77 Ribari 182 Ribatsch332 Richterswyl 245, 255 Rieka... PAGE31 28532856361 356 Rietberg 58 Ragatz 57 Rimini 100...RealtaRecanatiRegelsbrunnRegensburg Regenstauf ReggioRagusa RahowaRaitch, Valley of RakovitzaRama, Valley of Rambert, St.... Ranariedl RantscheRapperschwyl Rasgrad Raska Planina RassowaRastadtRathenburg RatschaRaubling Rauheneck Rauhenstein... ...Ravanitza, Monastery of155 Rohrau 81 Rolandseck 68 Romania Planina 279 Romerbad 91 Ronco 76 Rosenheim76 Rosta 283 Rostze58 Roveredo346 Risano, Bay of 349 153 Risna ... 361 257 Riva 61 303 Rivoli ... 93 356 Rocadi Este 94 116 Rodosto 274 122 Roffla, Falls of 59294 Rogatit*cha 29656 Rognac 120156 Rogosna Planina 291312 Rogov ... 308 147*26 296 ... ... 78... 4391 107 36193103 Rovigno 335147 Rovigo 94 69 Ruda ... 346 69 Rüdesheim 38 ... 113, 140 Rudnitza 291ReichenauReichenau Valley Reichenbach ...Reichenberg ... Reifenstein CastleRemagen Rendina, Gulf of57 Rustzuk 153 77 Rüschlikon 56 83 Russikon 379 30 Russkoi 273... 92 Rubiera 114 26 Rütli 39Reni Resna ...Revaniko Rhaetian Promontory RhäzunsRheineck Rheinfels Rhense Rhó ......... 372 Rumeli Hissar155 Rumeli Kawaghi 366 Runovich372 Ruti137 Rzava, Valley of 582730... 29 San AgataS... 56 320162... 158... ... 356... ...45 San Ambrogio ...431407107

INDEX. 397PAGE PAGE...San AntoninoSan Basilo, Monastery of San Bonifacio San CassianoSan Filippo Giacomo San Filippoi San GiacomoSan Giorgio107 Scamander361 Scardona, Falls of 137 339 49 Scele 363 339 Schabatsch 284 339 Schahim Tabiassi 13633 Scharingrad 15060 Schaumburg, Castle of 123349 Schistowa 153 San Ilario 113 Schmerikon 56San Giuliana... San LazaroSan Lorenzo San Marco San MarinoSan Martino San MichelSan Michele San Remigio San Severo San VitoSabioncello, Peninsular Sacile346 Scholeion111 Schorenberg 101 Schumla 93 Schwandorf 101 Schwaz49 Schwyz 106 Scutari 49, 93 Scutari, Lake of 43 Seben, Convent of 103 Sebenico 104 Sebenstein 344 Seckhau Castle26565... 15669... 9243 165360, 36293 3397778 263 Sedil Bahr 137Sadowa Sakar 52 Sedlo Precipice 351285 Ségannoaux 119Sakol, Monastery of 187 Selasnitscha, Gorge of 294 Salaise 116 Seliszie 318Salamis 142 Selos 264 Salona, Ruins of Salonica...Santa CroceSara SarambekSargan's SarhanneSalonikiSalzig Samakowo SamatschSandukly341 Selve253 Selvidje 267 Semitli29 sem*ndria 299 Semetsch 245 Semlin200 SempachSanta Domenica, Monastery of 344 Senkovitsch337 262 253 281... 296 151... 38349 Senevsa 18229678 Serai Burun 139243 Seres 25357 Seres, Plain of 271 189 Serezin 116SarydjaSarijeri Sarmusakly 159 Sermione242 Serpho200 Seriate 4748 136Sassana 79 Serves 116 Sasso 353 Sestos 138Sauerbach SaulceSausenstein91 Seven Capes 126117 Sevli Burun 160124 Sharkova 284

398 INDEX.sh*tanjik Sibostschica, Valley of Sieben JungfrauenSigeum ...PAGE156 Spreca, Valley of ... 298 Sprechenstein, Castle ofPAGE 29892Sihl ... ... Silenen... ... 30 Spuss ... 136 St. Fons... 55 St. Goar... 40 St. Goarshausen361 11630... 30Singel DaghSilistria Silivri SimnitzaSimopetraSinigaglia SinistaSinzig Siphanto Sirpkoi SiseboliSistovaSjenitscha SkelaSkoplje Skumbi, Valley of ...... ... ... ...154 St. Laura139, 200 St. Maura 153 St. Peray 378 St. Peter 253 St. Vallier... ...... 377... ... 136...116 79... 116... 102 Stabnja... 297... 257 Stagno26 Stagno, Bay of 136 Stahleck358 35831 248 Stambul 201 157 Stanimak 196 182 Stara Planina 280293 Starigrad 353 284 Stein 124 356 Steinach 66364 Steinbrücken 78Skyro SlapSleptchevitch SmederevoSmederewo... ... 142 Stemmaka, Valley of 193339 Stenia 161...... ... ...... ... ... ... ... ... Smoimir ... Soenitza ... ... Sokol ... Sokolatz ...Solapitza ... Solferino285 Sternberg 283 Stit 152 Stockstadt254 Sterzing356 Steyeregg286 Straubing328 Strasburg 242 Stresa... 48 Strizevo29... 35665... ... 92 123708044 297Solina, Valley of 298 Struga 365Solta 340 Strymon 253Sooneck 31 Stotzenfels 29Sophia 246 Stoboria Planina 298Sorgues 117 Stobretz 353Sornico 62 Stolivo 349Sorowitch ... 261 Stovroniketes, Monastery of 376Soubise ... ... 116 Stubeania Planina 287Spalatro ... ... 340 Studena Planina ... 287Spatovo ... ... 253 Stuttgart 82Sphakian Mountains 145 Sucha- Gora 293Spielberg, Castle of Spielfeld Castle123 Sultanie Kaleh 13878 Sulu-Dere, Valley of 244Spitz, Castle ofSplügen124 Sulu-Koi 24459 Sulzbach 69

...INDEX. 399PAGE PAGISumughu Dagh ... 280 Torre di Vezio ... 62 Sunium, Cape ... 142 Torrigia 63 Sursee ... 38 Tortona ... 110 Susa ... 106 Toulon ... 140 Sutiska ... 305 Tournon ... 116 Sutiska, Monastery of ... 307 Tournon, Castle of ... 116 Sutinska Valley ... 352 Trajan's Wall 155 Sweti Bogaritza ... 257 Trani 104 Sweti Spas 255 Traunstein 71 Sympleiades RocksSyra ...Syracuse Szexard Szlankament .158 Trautson136 | Trau 141 Trawnik151 Trient... 150 Trifels Trieste92 340 3059312452TTrimontium 193Trebocconi ... 339Tain TagliamentoTarasconTatarmuhalle Tchaltchylar ... Tchanaktchylar Koi...... 116 Trembesch 52 Trebinje 350 182...... 119 Trebenitza 350Tchas-Koi Tchernik ...Tcherova Tcherowa Tchiftlik-koiTchirpoluTchipash TchiupriaTchurkuly Tenedos TenirTeggiate Termoli...Tersenik...... ... 242 Trecate254 Tremiti 261 Trescovitza253 Trbusatsch 261 Trebovitsch Mountains188 Trechtingshausen... 284... 3084.5... 31... 103... 317...... ... ... ......367 Trescovitsa Planina ...262 Trèviglio 193 Treviso 245 Troica... 279, 283 Tronosha192 Trostburg136 Troyak 138 Trani Gora60 Tratzberg, Castle of... 103 Trnova3084752 294 285... 93257 26592... ... 308... 181 Tschainitscha ... 295Tesanj ... 300 Tschaptalan ... 157Tesanjska ... 300 Tschebinatsch ... 293Tfzar ... 295 Tschehotina, Valley of ... 294Theben, Castle of 147 Tschelebi Bazar ... 296Therapia Thusis ... 160 Tschernawoda... 58 Tscherni Vrch ... 155... ... 301TientistaTirana Tirnowa352 Tschemerno Planina...363 Tschervanje Planina... 186 Tseherveljevitza Planina351 309 328Tolna ... 150 Tscheschler 196Torno ... 63 Tschibukly ... ... 1614.00 INDEX.PAGE PAGE Tschitschel Planina .Tschirmen 295 Vardar, Valley of 256 197 Varenna 62Tschipka Tschorlu 187 Varesh 297 200 Varna 156 Tulln ... 124 Varosh 257Tupova Turkmenly315 Vasto d'Amone 103274 Vaugris 116 Turin ...Turn- Severin Turtukan107 Vela Gubovitza 354 152 Verlovatzani... 328 153 Verona 48 Tzarina Tzettina 350 Vetova 156353 Vezim-Vey- Vine 248Tzernitza...UTzettinje, Town and Valley of 359 Villa Balbianello 351 Villa Campo Villa CarlottaVilla d'Este63636363Udine Uffenheim338Villa Melzi 63 5266 Villa Napoli 63 Villa Pasta Ufnau 56 Villa Planina Uglian 339 Villa Serbelloni Uihingen 83Ulbo Island Villa Taglioni 337 Via Emilia 98 Ullok 309 Vicenza 49 Ulm 84 Vienna 72 Umurjeri 160 Vienne 116 Umurkoi 160 Villanuova 49, 110 Untermühl Unie 123 Vitesh 307 ... 337 Urba ... 351 Vithos Enipeus 265Vithos, Gorge of 265 Uri Usak43 Vitrolles 120 318Uscuptsche Usti-Koeina Uster ...Usundscha BurunVlasenitscha 286 298 Vlasitsch Planina 302, 305 295 Vlaska 293 56 Vodena 367 157 Vodizze 339 Usundschah Dagh Usunschowa Usze... 196 197 Voghera 110Val di BoveValley of Schams Val Lagarina... Valence ValmadiVVoina Voinitze Volice141 Volujak284 Vogostschia 297 312361 356 35158 Vöslau 7793 Vrana 339116 Vratalovatsch, Mountain 286266 Vranduk 307Vaihingen 82 Vranjina, Isle of 362Vapa, Valley of 293 Vratlo 308INDEX. 401Vutschnik Vutzia Planina VuksitschVukowa ......PAGE 293 308 287 Xutaloqua ... 150 ......Wädenswyl Wäggis Waitzen WallenstadtWalhalla Strasse WallisellenW... ... ......

XY

PAGE325... 272 ... ... 248 187... 274... 248 260YanitzaYedi Göler56 Yekeladge 39 Yenidschik149 Yeni Maden 56 Yukari KleshtinaWasen Wartenstein Wasilaki695641 ZWattingen Watzari Vacuf Wauwyl Weideneck ...WeilerWeinheim WeinzettelwandWeisseneck... ... 77 Zasitzi... Weissenthurm Welmich ... Werfenstein, Castle of Werth, Island WesenWetzikon ...Wettingen, Abbey of WidinWildonWildon, Castle ...Wilhelmsburg, Castle of123 Zenitza ...123 Zeropotamos78 Zavalje...77 Zabliak271 Zagodina 41 Zahorina329 Zajatza 38 Zara...124 Zara Vecchia 29 Zaribrod...35 Zarudzje Planina27 Zek, Mount... 362 307 305 285 ... ... 337 ... 339... 280 ... 297... 308 327 30530 Zelesnitza, Valley of... 308... 307... 379 56 Zibru ... 153 56 Zillerthal 92 55 Zillis ... 59 152 Zitcomicich 357 78 Zirona, Island of 340 78 Zizelau 123 84 Zlatar, Mountain 318WolfsbrunnenWindeckWippthalWörgl WormsWülpelsberg... Würzburg... ... 35 Zlatar Planina 293 ... 92 Zlarin 340... ... ...35 Zofingen91 Zographos 124 Zürich55 Zwornik66...38 37955

285D D

E. M. REILLY & CO.,GUN AND RIFLE MANUFACTURERS,2OF502, NEW OXFORD STREET, LONDON,ANDRUE SCRIBE, PARIS,Havealways on hand large assortments of Central Fire Guns and Rifles on their well- known " Direct-action " and Double-Grip systems, by which efficiency and durability are ensured. Prices from 15 guineas upwards.Pin-cartridge Guns and Rifles from 10 guineas.Muzzle-loading Guns and Rifles from 5 guineas.Sole manufacturers of the REILLY- COMBLAIN Rifle for military & sporting purposes.Capsule-revolvers of all sizes, from £2 15s. upwards.Saloon Rifles and Pistols on an improved principle, from £2 2s.SAME PRICES AT LONDON AND PARIS.Accuracy of shooting guaranteed. Illustrated price-lists on application.E. M. REILLY & CO. ,FOURNISSEURS BREVETES DE S. M. L'EMPEREUR,502, New Oxford Street, London.Branches: 315, OXFORD STREET, LONDON; 2, RUE SCRIBE, PARIS.PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE ,LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E.C.Regulations for obtaining Foreign Office Passports may be had(gratis), on application by Post or otherwise.PASSPORTS AND VISAS OBTAINED WITH EXPEDITION BYW. J. ADAMS, 59, FLEET STREET.Bythis arrangement Passports can be forwarded by Post (en Règle. )Passport CasesFrom 1s. 6d. each.In Russia andMorocco Leathers,from 4s. each.PASSPORTFee obtainingPassport, ls. 6d.Visás 1s. each.Passports carefullyMounted on linen,Cased, and Nameslettered thereoninGold.TO TOURISTS .EDMISTON'S POCKET SIPHONIA,ORWATERPROOF OVERCOAT(Weight 12 ounces) .Sole Manufacturers of the Celebrated Pocket Siphonia,Remarkable for its lightness and softness of texture, adapted forSPORTSMEN, TRAVELLERS, AND TOURISTS,Easily folded to carry in the Pocket or on Saddle, obviating the stickiness and unpleasant smell peculiar to all other Waterproofs.Price 42s. to 50s. Measurement, length of coat and size round the chest over the coat.Stout Siphonias, 25s. to 35s. Overalls, 12s. 6d. and 15s. 6d.Fishing Stockings, 21s. and 25s. per pair. Ladies' Capes and Hoods, Petticoats.KNAPSACKS for TOURISTS, 15s. 6d. and 21s.EDMISTON & SON,5, CHARING CROSS, OPPOSITE KING CHARLES'S ' STATUE, AND441, STRAND, FACING CHARING CROSS RAILWAY, LONDON.LANGHAM HOTELBaths,andSmoking Room,with everyModern Luxury.FORTLAND PLACE,LONDON, W.THE LARGEST, most Commodious, andmost Healthily situated Hotel in theMetropolis, with the Finest Reception and Refreshment Rooms, Splendidly Furnished,Carriagesand Horses,ElegantEquipages,Always Ready.Law Adjacent to the Park, Opera, Clubs,Houses of Parliament, andCourts; the Foreign Embassies, and all Theatres in the most FashionableQuarter ofLondon.N.B. -A Telegraph Office within the Hotel.

COLTS AND UNTRACTABLE HORSES.MITENTw1-2 hghahaBROKEN TEMPERATE, AND EASY- MOUTHED,BY KIND AND GENTLE TREATMENT, AND USINGBlackwell's Patent Whalebone and Gutta Percha Jockeys,with Rubber Spring Reins, 56s. to 64s.HIRE, 2s. PER WEEK, WITH OPTION OF PURCHASE.GUTTAPERCHACRIBSTRAP.LEAPATENT APPARATUSof PerforatedTubes for Legs ofHorses, producingjets of cold water (or hot for fomen- tation) , 15s.; aTap, 3s. WebFetlock, Speedy,Leg, Knee, Hock,and Ring Boots to buckle on, &c.Sandal HuntingShoes, &c.RUBBERRUBBERBLACKWELL'S AANTI - CRIB- BITING STRAPS,Invaluable and simple, 18s.And various Muzzles to prevent Crib Biting, and Wind Sucking Bits,Breaking Tackle, and various special appliances for Horses.SAFETY SPRING RIDING AND DRIVING REINS, 8s. & 12s.RUBBER SPRINGS FOR STRAPS, ROLLERS, &c., 2s.METAL SPRINGS TO CHAINS, WHIPS, REINS, &c.PATENT SADDLERY AND HARNESS MANUFACTURERTO HER MAJESTY AND THE PRINCE OF WALES,259, Oxford Street, near the Marble Arch, London.Agent in Paris.-GVE. BRASSART, Saddler, &c. , 18, Louis le Grand To be had of all Saddlers.Awarded the Prize Medals, London, 1851 and 1862; Dublin, 1865; Cologne, 1865; and the only First Class Medal, Paris, 1855, for Saddlery.APPROVED FAMILY REQUISITES.KEATING'S COUGH LOZENGES.The vast increase in the demand for these COUGH LOZENGES, and the numerous Testimonials constantly received, fully justify the Proprietor in aserting they are the best and safest yet offered to the Public for the Cure of the following complaints: -ASTHMA,WINTER COUGH, HOARSENESS, SHORTNESS OF BREATH, and other PULMONARY MALADIES .They have deservedly obtained the high patronage of their Majesties the King of Prussia and the King of Hanover; very many also of the Nobility and Clergy, and of the Public generally, use them, under the recommendation of some ofthe most eminent of the Faculty.TESTIMONIAL FROM COLONEL HEWETT, J.P. and D.L." GLAMORGAN, May, 1866."DEAR SIR- I was attacked with a severe cough, which your Lozenges removed in a few days. My servants, also, by taking your Lozenges were soon cured."I feel it a duty (to the public) to offer my testimony to their efficacy, which you are at liberty to publish. "Yours truly."To Mr. Thomas Keating." "W. HEWETT. "IMPORTANT TESTIMONIAL FROM A CLERGYMAN IN ESSEX."August 25th, 1866." DEAR SIR-I have derived so much benefit from using your COUGH LOZENGES, that Iwrite to make you acquainted with the circ*mstance, and with the view of benefiting some who may be inconvenienced by a winter cough. For many years I have been more or less troubled with a cough, but during last winter it became so bad that I could scarcely read aloud. Having taken other remedies, some of them very nauseous, among them Cough no More, without obtaining relief, I tried your LOZENGES, which are very palatable,and was agreeably surprised at the result of the trial. You are at liberty to make use of this communication. "I remain, faithfully yours," É. L. D."Prepared and Sold in Boxes, 1s. 1d., and Tins, 2s. 9d. , 4s. 6d. , and 10s. 6d. each, by THOMAS KEATING, Chemist, &c., 79, St. Paul's Churchyard, London. Sold retail by all Druggists.KEATING'S CHILDREN'S WORM TABLETS.A Purely Vegetable Sweetmeat both in appearanceand taste, furnishing a most agreeable method of administering a well-known remedy for INTESTINAL OR THREAD WORMS.It is a perfectly safe and mild preparation, and is especially adapted for Children, being as harmless in its action, as it is prompt and certain in its effects; and may be taken with impunity by the most delicate constitution.TESTIMONIAL." HURSLEY, WINCHESTER, September 22nd, 1868."MR. LITTEHALES wishes for a Box of WORM TARLETS for Thread Worms, as they have done wonders for a child belonging to a man in his employ, and Mr. Keating may accept this as another testimonial of their efficacy. "Prepared and Sold in Tins, 1s. 14d. and 2s. 9d . each,byTHOMAS KEATING, Chemist, &c. ,79, St. Paul's Churchyard, London, E.C., and retail by all Druggists.Put up in Small Boxes " specially" for post, which will be forwarded on receipt of 14 stamps.KEATING'S PERSIAN INSECT- DESTROYING POWDER.THIS POWDER IS QUITE HARMLESS TO ANIMAL LIFE, but is unrivalled in destroying Fleas, Bugs, Emmets, Flies, co*ckroaches, Beetles, Gnats, Mosquitoes, Moths in Furs, and every other species of insects in all stages of metamorphosis.SPORTSMEN will find this an invaluable remedy for destroying FLEAS IN THEIR DOGS, as also Ladies for their Pet Dogs, and sprinkled about the nests of Poultry it will be found extremely efficacious in exterminating those Insects with which they are usually infested.It is perfectly harmless in its nature, and may be applied without any apprehension, AS IT HAS NO QUALITIES DELETERIOUS TO ANIMAL LIFE.TESTIMONIAL." RED LAND, NEAR HIGHWORTH, WILTS, June 19th, 1867."SIR-I amglad to inform you that your INSECT DESTROYING POWDER has doneits duty towards destroying Bugs and Fleas, and all sorts of other Lusoot purpose so well, I want another packet"Mr. Keating."Sold in Packets, 1s. , 2s. 6d. , an postage stamps, by THOMAS KE and byall Agents for Keating's Co Take notice, each genuine packeand as it answers mye Servant,EN ELDRIDGE."or treble size for 36 ayard, London, E.C.,

See also

• Cook's Tourists' Handbook for Egypt, the Nile, and the Desert